Remove neg lead first. Check. Then positive lead. Do it in reverse order connecting to new battery. Connect pos lead first, then neg lead. Just sayin'.
I'm about to replace my battery too but i kept finding info that i need to reconnect the terminals asap to a separate device or to the new battery right away after disconnecting to avoid memory loss etc. But I can't seem to get well-expained details about it. Also, is it true you need some code to reset in order to start using all the on-board electronics again? How do i get that? I'm hoping all my previous electronics memory are the same.
@@hyundaihowto what happens when you lose the presets, how do you get it back? You need a code? Where do you get that? Or you don't get back the presets and just restart again like it was a new car?
I use an external 12v (small, two 6v lamp batteries in series) that I connect through a widget to the diagnostic port connector. It will preserve memory of radio and car CPU. I'll see if I can dig up a video on doing that. OK, here it is -- a memory 'keep alive': ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ybXVBffMBLk.html
I saw you video about “update on steering wheel noise”. I have elite i20 2019 1.2l petrol. I am from India. So, I am hearing noise like the sound of dc connection, i mean the sparking type sound. The steering wheel made these sounds in pot hole or uneven and bumpy roads. Is it problem with the reduction unit? Like worm shaft.
