Hi, I just ordered a manual roll-crimp yesterday. Everything you showed and said made me realize I should have started roll-crimping years ago. The video was great and very informative.
It appears that you are over crimping your shot shells, that is why they are dished inward on the final crimp. If I could offer a suggestion, I think you need to adjust your shot column with a different wad or trim your shot shell cases to a length that will accommodate your shot column to get a flat crimp on the 6 or 8 fold crimps. Each case and load recipe is different, so you need to adjust your machine or case to get an acceptable crimp.
I agree with our suggestion. Unfortunately the Mec 600 JR does not come with an adjustable shot column. It is on my list to purchase one but I've not got around to it yet.
Heating and lubrication must be the key. I’ve been rolled crimping for a few years and last night, for the first time, I had some bulged and crumpled case lips. I would guess my roller wasn’t warm enough yet?
You need to fix the stock height on your fold crimps. It lol s to me you’re close to 1/4 inch short. You need to trim hills on roll crimps to be about 1/4 inch over the charge in the shell. You will be over pressure with too much roll and you run the risk of pieces of the hull breaking off and lodging in your barrel.
Are roll crimped shells able to be reloaded though? I'd seen instructions that said "About 1/4" would need to be trimmed off of pre-fired hulls". If so, and you wished to reload multiple times, while only roll crimping, your hulls would progressively need to get shorter, correct?
Great video! I am curious about the divise used to hold the shell while using the roll crimper. Did you make it or buy it. If the latter where did you get it. Thanks, Frank
I roll crimp new shells and ones I've trimmed down to a smaller size, which are basically new shells as well. And now there are custom personalized O/S cards! Oooooo...
And Bad star crimped shells you can fix by roll crimper :D just slight touch. Before that use sponge with some oil, just made end of shell little bit oiled, just slick it ;)
Hi, I roll-crimp as I like the flexibility of crimp depth for black powder loads and have made my own reloading station from a block of wood so can't star anyway but I loved your shotshell base to hold the shell, where did you get it? or how can it be made? and how do you fix it to the base of your press? Thanks in anticipation, Gordon
Hi Gordon. The base got removed from a modern manual shot shell crimping tool. I can't find the exact one for sale but I have found a picture of the exact one I had: i106.photobucket.com/albums/m278/photo205/IMG_20140529_122315664_zpsfavo8toj.jpg The tool was regrettably really slow so I took the base off, threaded it to M8 (or it might already been threaded) and glued a threaded rod (cut off bolt) into it. The top of the cut off bolt now at the bottom of the 'base' was hammered into a rough rivet. The finished contraption is placed into a hole in the drill press table and held in place using an M8 washer (with a rubber backing glued to it) and a wing nut. Hope that helps!
@@flecktarnuk3557 Hi and thanks for that, I will get straight on to seek one out as currently I have a 'gripper' made from 2 strips of wood with a hinge at one end (the wall of an old plastic shotshell) and I hold the shell in that but it does slip. For any readers - you don't want to hold the shell by hand! You can get a good grip at initially it seems to work but one day the crimper and shell will stick to each other and then spin in your fingers which are holding the sharp edge of the base... Thanks again and I'll be in touch about some .44Mag copper heads
One more point to take: It looks like the top disk on the roll crimp could interfere birdshots, making them dissipate faster, on shorter ranges. Maybe that's the answer why the star crimp is much more popular for birdshots.
From what I've seen, the advantages of a star crimp are that most shotshell reloading presses have star crimping built in (even my US$69 Lee Load All II); they're also easier to reload (no need to pretreat the hull to take out the old roll crimp). Yes, they're picky about column height, but it only took me two shells to get the height right on my first session loading shotshells ever. They're the industry standard for a reason: loading speed. The automated machinery that produces modern commercial shells crimps (over a 100% consistent, machine-assembled powder/wad/payload column) with two quick strokes, last thing before going into the orienter/stacker to be boxed. Roll crimping on a commercial basis is significantly less efficient.
For star crimp - 11mm from bottom of shell should be free. So take caliper, measure it, if there is free space under 11mm level from top, then add overshot paper wad. Wad can be cut from any 1mm paper by 19mm or 18mm cutter. 19mm diameter is for over powder wad, can be used as overshot wad as well.
I’m a fan of roll crimping but it to can be fussy if you use once fired hulls. A perfect roll crimp can be easily achieved if you stack your load over an inexpensive nitro card. Both are fine.