"Old Timers" have the patience to do this right. I am in my 60s and work the same as you do. Half the fun is just doing it yourself. You're hired. Great video.
After watching that I do believe I would bring the car to you and write a check for it. There are just too many gotchas there, and in the end the cylinder is toast and you need a new one. Thanks for the detailed description. It was an eye opener. BTW, an ultrasonic cleaning bath would be absolutely ideal for cleaning all those parts.
Another very good, clear video John. I've noticed that the small deglazing brushes available here in the UK are often expensive for what they are and prone to breaking - they are also hard to get in anything other than 120 grit. What I tend to do is to cut a length of narrow rod down the middle about half-way and slide strips of emery cloth or wet&dry paper, enough to wrap around the rod several times. I've produced some pretty good internal finishes inside brake cylinders using that method.,
Important note: internal master cylinder parts should not be cleaned with solvent. the solvent stays in the parts and causes the rubber seals to swell and fail. Use only alcohol to clean the internal parts. Besides that, good video John.
I used a pair of long surgical locking forceps with the ends ground down to match the circlip holes to remove both circlips without a hitch or scuff. I also had to grind down the body of the forceps a little bit to make them thin enough to get down to the second one. Sure mechanics tools don't belong in surgery or dentistry but surgical tools definitely find a use in mechanical work. I also lost one of the trap valve springs, so after some research apparently their primary purpose is to slow the return of brake fluid when the brake pedal is released quickly, to avoid air being drawn into the system if your wheel cylinders release the fluid slow enough then this shouldn't be an issue especially on the rear. So I omitted the rear trap valve and I have heard of others that have done the same.
Stubborn Phillips head screws? dab a bit of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip, never slip out, the carbide bites in, and you can dump the hammer routine,
I truly appreciate the effort and educational value of John's video; but in my 39 years of MGB ownership a NEW master cylinder has been my only considered solution.
The price of aftermarket or patent parts has dropped greatly. Now a non-stock master cylinder can be had for $50 to $75 . It used to cost close to $200 for a stock replacement. Rebuild kit was under $30 plus labor. Many of us had to rebuild what we had.
what a fussy assembly! thanks for sharing. I wonder if one of those tools that is designed to break free screws that you hit with a hammer and it twists under the force of the hammer blow would break the philips screws on the reservoirs?
Yes it will. You may find that you will have to use a hand impact driver to remove the screws holding the cover over the brake pedal housing also. Years of slowly leaking brake fluid will almost weld them in place. Stock they are Phillips head and rusty. I replace them with hex head bolts of the same size thread. Not concourse, but a lot easier to service later and there will be a later.
13:37 please, never hold that sandpaper that way. If it rolls around the piston and catches your thumb, that's an ugly wound. Lathes are torquey machines, try not to hurt the hands that do such an amazing job.
They also don't take mind of the cost of an OEM master cylinder. An OEM Girling or Lockheed cylinder are still in the neighborhood of $200 plus labor. The cheaper aftermarket ones can be had for about $50 to $75, but are not rebuild-able.
No Triumph used a different cylinder. The reservoir removes in a similar manner. Under it is a large hollow allen screw about 1/2 inch or 13mm that is retaining a "tilt valve". The tilt valve must be removed so that the piston can be removed. The snap ring retainers are similar is style of removal
John Twist did address the punch needed at the end of the video, but not what a PIA it is to remove and replace the roll pin without breaking the link in between the two halves.
I was going to rebuid my master cylinder on my 74 Midget until I saw this. $20 for a kit, or $40 for a new cylinder...I'll just go with the new cylinder.
I could not get the reservoir off, so pressed air solution was out. But I managed to get the nylon ring out easily. Drilled two tiny holes in it opposite each other. Then used a very fine threaded, long tap and made two threaded holes. Putting in one of this a long screw and leaving the tap in the second hole I just pulled the ring out by pulling at both in SYMMETRY. Asymmetrical pulling wil get you nowhere. PS Only one out of two MC's will be fit for restoration, prices for new MC's are falling
White Post Restoration used to use brass sleeves to restore the bore. With the cost of aftermarket cylinders for MGB/Midget falling these days it is cheaper to replace than rebuild. Some parts are made of "unubtainium" and must be reconditioned.
I remember that toilet paper; better than nothing if these seasick pills dont work...urrk you can fix my car any day, I cant until I get over that camera work...
I appreciate the effort but the camera man sucks! Either not focusing on what you’re doing, too late for the shot, of obstructed view....and yes, i know this video is old but had to say something. Kinda made the video useless for me because of that.
