I purchased my 18” Farm Boss ms290 new 16 years ago. Phenomenal piece of equipment. Many hard hours of use over the years. Engineering is first rate. It’s never been in the shop for repairs. Starts right up every time, even after sitting for over a year. If you have the means I highly recommend getting your hands on one. You will not be disappointed.
@@walasiewicz Well I've got a Husky 2100XP from about 1990 so yes Stihl saws are actually touchable. Marketing Hype if you ask me. The key to longevity is run 20:1. That saw has so much torque it is incredible the way it pulls down under load and hangs on. As a matter of fact I have a Stihl battery saw and it is my most used saw, the point being other saws can be good also and I'm not biased like you.
My 290 is like apple pie 😉about 12 years going strong changed the filters in it once over the years and been through 3 bars I use it year round to cut wood to warm my house
Bought mine new years ago. Used it commercially for land clearing. Starts right up to this day. Great saw. Never had any issues with the way it runs or idles. Interesting mod. Considering it because I do believe in letting an engine breath however, it runs like a champ and cuts logs without any noticeable issues bogging down etc. i also was taught if it's not broke, don't fix it. Hmmm. Something to think about.
Have this exact same saw. My saw kept puttering out because the muffler was completely plugged up with smoke. I put in a new aftermarket muffler and now it runs lile a brand new saw. Plus it sounds really nice when it runs.
My old mans got one of these been using it forever. Yearly for firewood the metal screen in the exhaust plugged on time and over heated the saw and never has quite been the same since always throw the screen away many saws have burned up from that
When those 1st came out as the 029 the price was very attractive till they were used. They came with .325 chain/20" bar. That didn't suit a lot of people in this area so a lot were converted to .375 chain & there was the problem. They were too lean from the factory & got a lousy rep b/c of it. If you can use an 026/260 you'll throw rocks at the 290.
The restrictions designed into the muffler is to provide a pressure balance after the blow-off phase of the stroke charges the muffler and provides a gas barrier to the transfer phase so it doesn't blow the air/fuel charge out into the muffler. It is also designed for the highest efficiency at full load 9500 RPM and strikes a balance of fuel economy/emissions/performance. Opening up the exhaust a little bit can help the saw breathe better at the expense of more fuel and more particulate but opening too much actually hurts power. It's best to make small changes, tune and test .
I have messed with mine since it is 11 years old. But the main reason I don’t get to wild is I am cheap and for others most can’t afford to go out and buy another 500 dollar saw
Dude, thanks! I've got that saw and I love it...it's super reliable and always starts on the 1st or 2nd pull. With that said, it has always seemed choked down...lacking that extra little "pep". I'm doing this mod.
When those saws came out they were called the 029 or 039. The 029 was the smaller of the 2 & came with .325 chain. A lot of people went to the 3/8" chain & it cut better. Those 1st saws were leaned out too much & suffered but Stihl made it right. They didn't hold up as good as the pro saws.
Make sure the oiler channel on the bar is open and not clogged. Remove the bar from the saw and check the little oil hole that feeds the oil into the bar's channel. It frequently gets clogged with goo. Your flow will be magically be restored.
If the other two recommendations do not work pull your clutch off and check the plastic oil gear that the slot in the clutch cover turns. The plastic oil gear can strip out. The way you tell if it is striped is the metal lever arm that comes off of the plastic gear will spin around the gear. It should not slip. Also when you pull the gear out turn the other half of the oil gear that is still attached to the saw to make sure the actual oiler isn't seazed. The oil gear slipping is a common issue on stihl saws
Had a Ms 290 s bought few years ago from the dealership new only got to use it a few times till someone thought they needed it more and broke into my shop and stole my saw the saw I got now ain’t have the saw my 290
You can't over rev a Stihl there's a rev limiter built into the ignition module on all of their newer equipment and you did nothing in the way of power gains by cutting your muffler open what DID make it run right is by making your carb adjustable its probably been lean since you bought it. If you don't think stihl did all the homework to make sure they are getting all the performance and longevity out of their equipment your nuts. But hey, cut your muffler open if that makes you feel like you accomplished something. It will put outt more db's if that's what your looking for!
When the 029 1st came out around 30 odd years ago Stihl issued a SB that they were too lean when reports started coming in of burnt up saws. Stihl did help with making it right but the damage was done. Around here you almost couldn't give 'em away in those days. I've got 2 of the newer model, MS 290, that are shot. I've not looked into the reason yet, not high on my list.
Warranty? ? It's a chainsaw not a feller/bunched. I bought a ms462, ms461 ms661 and send them directly to builder for porting. Who cares about warranty? Dumb.
@@michellepugh2859 broke? Thats laughable. It is funny thats your first comment in retaliation though. Quit trying to prove how cool you are. You are arrogant.
Superficial validity. "Better exhaust flow" doesn't necessarily improve HP on either a 2 or 4 cycle engine. Infact, 2 stokes usually need that exhaust back pressure to breath so if anything your only hurting performance. If you really think you can improve the ms290's exhaust souch then why don't you patten your design and show Stihl how to properly build a chainsaw?
@@design2survive Cleaning and even removing the spark arrestor is one thing, but hollowing out the baffling just turns the muffler into an open header more than a crude expansion chamber like its supposed to be. It allows the engine to suck in gas more quickly, hence the perception of increased power, but it then turns all that fuel into angry gay sounds more than actual useful power because it now gets even less of it gets a chance to burn under that increased exhaust flow. If you think that trade off is worth it then more power too you, but in my experience every used saw I have bought with this mod stalls constantly, needs more gas every 10 minutes, runs stupid hot and usually just needed a new seal or some carb work done.
nik krenitsky the 290 was designed restricted..most likely because they didn’t want it to compete with pro saws. It was always starved for fuel, especially with the restrictor caps on the carb. It used a bit more fuel, but it worked way better. I won’t do it to the 261 because it seems to run really well stock. Never remove the spark arrestor..
@@design2survive My limited experience with a commercial weight class chainsaw was an old Echo EVL-750, but I have both a new 271 and 290 and it was allot more like the 290; slow but strong with allot of torque and low end power. My 271 is way more trigger happy and feels like it has the most power, but it definetly seems to go through chains and gas more quickly. The 290 just seems less waistful and more controllable by comparison. Either way I always prefer to use an ms-170 with a 20" bar whenever possible.
@@pinkhead6857890 Stihl knows how to make a good chainsaw, they did it in the 90's the problem is they can't make it and sell it AND get it passed the EPA. A lot of these new saws come choked up from the factory to pass inspection, but then have problems with overheating in real use,that's half the reason people mod mufflers. There's only so much you can get out of these cheap plastic clamshell saws but people have been running modded mufflers for decades to get more power.
What difference do you notice in performance after the mod and carb adjustment? My 290 seems to bog down under load midway through a log often......wondering if this will help it breathe?!?
It will open it up a good bit. If you take the time with a torch and split the muffler to either cut the baffle in half or completely try and remove it and also to put a .625" pipe in the top corner on bar side of the muffler it will open it up even more. If you take the time and spend the money for the ms390 cylinder kit that's a 49mm bore you'll gain a hell of a lot more but you'll have to swap up to about a .700" pipe I'm personally running a .750 or 3/4 inch pipe just because it throws the buddy's off. I think they run best with a .700-.730" pipe. That's for the ms390. The ms290 or ms290 super I would use a .625 or .650" pipe. The only difference between the ms290 and ms290 super is the bore size. Ms290 is a 45mm bore the ms290 super is a 46mm bore the ms310 is a 47mm bore and the ms390 is a 49mm bore considered the "Big bore kit"
The EPA mandated those limiters for those saws. They were designed so the carb couldn't be legally fooled with other than thru the dealer. I'd be careful what you say & do on this.
They were designed so the dealer tunes it according to spec. They would put the caps on again if ever serviced. People modify saws all the time, they just can’t legally sell them modded. I don’t have that saw anymore..But I’d mod it again if I ever end up with one.
@@design2survive Know that, just saying dealerships/independent shops are bound by law, we were & still are. EPA are cranky & considering the climate in the country now it might be an eye opener.
