Thanks for the video. I will give this a try. I gave up on this year's ago, but now I'm working on the brakes again, and this should be able to give me the answer finally. I have a 98 model with the 12 valve. I just watched a guy that remanufactures ABS modules. He checks all the solder points for cracks and then he just adds some new solder. So if it's not one of my sensors I might be looking at the circuit board for cracks. 👌
@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 pretty sure the 24 valve trucks in your video have the exact same dashboard and brakes. I'm not sure if the wiring would be identical because of the fuel system, but I'm pretty sure everything else is the exact. I have the quad cab as well.
@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 the 98 model with the 12 valve, needs to be smogged, and the computer has the 3 plugs like the 24 valve. I need to keep the egr valve to pass smog, and my 97 12 valve is smog exempt. I deleted the egr with a thin plate of steel so you can't tell it is there and put a resister in the egr wire to fool the computer.
You know you didn’t have to close and latch the hood every time correct lol you could’ve just left it up and driven ahead 5 feet just my two cents. Thanks for the tip though.
When you say that the issue may still be there with a used one, do you mean because of the vin mismatch or because the used one may be bad aswell? Bought an 02 with a 5.9L gas auto that had a bad pcm, with that 4 wheel abs module. Put another PCM from an 01 5.2L but that had a 2 wheel ABS in it. Had the ABS/brake lights on both pcms so I figure its the PCM not being wired for 4 wheel ABS, a sensor, or the module itself. Just asking as I have the opportunity to buy a used ABS module (assuming its not a sensor after ive done this troubleshoot)
Please give us the year of your truck. I have a 2000 Gen2 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins with R47E Automatic Transmission. My truck has all the sensors you just touched, however my truck has a transmission output shaft speed sensor. In newer trucks the transmission speed sensor may have been deleted. Yes my ABS and BRAKE lights are on. ☹
I have the same year but it’s a cab chassis not a pickup and I have a NV5600 manual transmission. Not sure what that helps with but hopefully it does 🤷🏼♂️
Could be a number of things…air in the system, bad proportioning valve, failing master cylinder, leaks in the system, old or worn flex lines, bad fluid etc
I have abs light on & check engine throwing p0500 code & speed odometer dont work.. already replaced speed sensor on rear end & transmission nothing has changed
i changed my calipers, brake pads, brake lines, master cylinder, hydro boost bearings, rotors, engine, trans, coil springs, and now i have all 4 brakes lock up on me when i drive around the block, does this mean my abs module is at fault? abs light and brake light is on also
I have a solid front axle 2 wheel abs 12 valve with same issue but since my speed is registering and I only have one abs sensor in rear then the abs module itself is bad then right?
I would make sure the module is grounded properly and getting proper voltage…as far as I know the rear abs systems are way less prone to failure and most of the time is corroded electrical components, bad wiring or a bad rear sensor …I would certainly bust out the multimeter and check reference voltage/resistance. I’m not entirely sure if those systems use the rear wheel speed sensor as the speedometer. From the little bit of research I did regarding your question, it does look like the 12 Valve set ups have a transmission speed sensor listed separate from the abs sensor in the diff. Get ya an accurate schematic and it should tell you everything you need to know. I would start with power/ground to the module, then check power/ground through the wiring going to the rear diff sensor, then check the sensor itself. Hope this helps and thanks for the view and comment
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 thanks for the response and the detailed information. I will look in to this because the truck is doing some funky braking. I already replaced front rotors/brake pads and master cylinder.
Sounds like a bad sensor or wiring…the funky braking is most likely the abs pump turning on and off intermittently from a strange signal input…keep in mind that these abs sensors are magnetic and metal debris from normal wear of the rear end gear set can attach to the face of the sensor causing errors in reference signal to the abs module…it could also indicate a more serious problem with your rear end ring/pinion gears….there’s a segmented ring on the 3rd member (this is how the sensor detects wheel speed via magnetic fluctuations), if that ring is out of alignment (due to bearing wear or failure) it will act like a bad sensor…this was the case for my LF wheel hub…my sensor checked out but because my front wheel bearing hub assembly was fucked up the abs sensor wasn’t receiving a signal reference hence the problem shown in this video…I replaced my front hub and bingo! Problem solved…I really hope it’s the simplest issue for you because if it’s the rear diff that could be a costly repair…but better to know as soon as possible before you grenade the rear end entirely 🤷🏼♂️
my ring gear has a chipped tooth. 1/3 of the metal is missing. No strange gear noises but ABS light is on (no brake light). I have RWAL. My ABS kicks on at low speeds (just braking slightly turns it on) then turns off and I have no ABS. Could that chip cause the ABS to not function? Which tooth has the magnetic thing you are talking about?
