Don't use tape that's obsolete... Did you hear about the glue stick "solution" (literally)? Take a glue stick, chop and put it in distilled water bottle. Shake regularly and within a day or two you'll have a big supply of liquid you can brush on before every print (or second or third when you get the mixture right, not too sticky). You'll get a perfect flat adhesion and can wipe down with a wet cloth for super easy cleaning. Originally I found a video here on RU-vid about it, tried it and was amazed! You just need the water solvable glue sticks, for example in Germany this is called the UHU "Magic" blue sticks. In the US they are purple (in the video I saw).
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I hope someone has pointed out that you should throw that blue tape to the bin and get 3DLAC just dont breathe that stuff. Also for the first print i suggest camera mounts for fpv. If u can print flexible filaments i hope u could make a vibration isolating design. Voronoi?
+lazyeyes First prints for me were calibration cubes to check actual vs model tolerances and then a 10mm nut spinner for removing props in the field and then a LED mount for the rear of one of the 250 class quads.. So much fun to be had!
Howdy - Could you please check the Google link above? I assume that is supposed to be Google Group, but the link fails for me. Is it this group, groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/deltabot or is there a more specific Geeetech forum on Google?
How far to the edges are you able to print? When print an object utilizing the entire bed I notice that as I get closer to the edges the print head is floating above the print bed and not the right height anymore. But if the object is smaller it stays the right height.
+Painless360 So are you saying that it should be able to print all the way to the edge of the bed? Does this have to do with just the screws on each arm or does it have to do with the "concave" vs "convex" settings in the firmware that the manual briefly mentions?
Absolutely. I print a large circle of plastic close to the edge and use that to fine tune the height at the edge using the three screws on the bed and the three screws on the risers to dial it in. Printing in the middle of the plate will let you print fine even with the calibration a little off.. Best of luck..
Painless360 Okay I'll try to get it even more level than it already is. Any suggestions for support material settings? I'm having issues with it coming off especially with smaller parts and PLA. Is there way to set it up to get it working well. It seems like this pattern on this picture looks to be pretty easy to peel off. it there a way to make it look like this from simplify3d in slic3r? i.imgur.com/hJA9V5N.jpg
I found the biggest improvement in support material was by using Cura as a the slicer. I found that Slic3r the support material stuck too.. Best of luck!
