Your explanations are excellent! I like your very logical and clear explanations. I also like that each one is clearly demonstrated with your half scale pattern pieces. Thank you!
You really are amazing!! You’ve made all this so understandable! Thank you!! I have a high round back and my shoulders rotate forward. I also seem to have fabric pooling above the bust in front. If that’s something you could show at some point... and if you think more people than me could benefit... that would be appreciated. ❤️
Thank you for the kind words. Sounds like you need to get rid of some vertical length in the front! Stay tuned for Fit Tip Tuesday on that topic! Thanks for watching
My gosh you are awesome! So clear! One question I would’ve instinctually added the same amount to the front shoulder slope, why do you only added to the back again? Also, would these tips to help with the woven shirt that pulls back? It drives me nuts ! Thank you 🙏
Thanks so much! If your shirt is pulling down in the back it's usually because you don't have enough length in the back and maybe too much length in the front. So, adding to the back will relax the stress pulling on the shoulder seam and if you find that you have extra vertical ease in the front ... shorten the length in the front! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This video is splendid! I have a few RTW tops that do this... and now I know why they do this. Might take them apart for fun and try these adjustments. 😊
Thank you for this. very clear and logical. I have a question about the round back adjustment. Is the CB a fold line? or does CB have a seam? Not sure about how to manage that. Thank you.
My Pleasure! The high round back adjustment shown here is for a pattern that has a CB seam. If you have a significant curve, this is the best solution because it gives the center back seam shape and length to agree with your shape. You can cut a pattern in half and add a seam allowance if you're working on a pattern that does not have a cb seam. Alternatively, if you want to do a high round back adjustment and cut your top out on the fold, try this: ru-vid.com3dVg788kW_s Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
You are so creative! I would have never thought to create "tubes" for the gussets and sew them in place. So much easier than the method I have been trying. The heart shape on the back was fantastically creative. I"m going to go look in my closet for something I can upsize the same way. Thank you!!
Thank you for your videos. I have watched many of your videos and love the. My question how do you do a rounded back adjustment and a protruding shoulder? Where are we cutting and adjusting both? Thank you!
So glad I found your channel. I’ve been binge watching your videos and have learned a lot of new things. I’ve struggled with fitting as I have narrow shoulders and big bust ( g cup) so rtw clothes always look like a box. You have been so helpful. Keep up the great videos. Thank you for sharing. 😊
Great video...my problem is the opposite, my store bought closes ride up my neck at back and drop to the front! An explanation and video adjustment of this would be sooo appreciated.. thanks
I came here to ask about the same issue. I recently figured out that I need to do the opposite and take length out of the upper back (and upper front). Do you have any videos on that type of adjustment? @@JSternDesigns
Hi Jennifer, You’ve done an excellent job showing how to change a certain amount, however, I need to add more than 3/4 “. More like 2”+. I like your spreading the back idea, I will try spreading and also making the back 2 pieces because i can no longer cut on the fold. Thank you for any help you may offer.
Can you send me photos of your top front/side/back views so I can see what's going on? There may be ways to split up total amount you have to remove into a couple different adjustments (jsterndesigns37@gmail.com) Thanks Jen
You make this so easy to digest! Thank you!! My little fit problem is that I have scoliosis ... therefore, one shoulder blade sticks out and takes up more fabric. It also means my right shoulder line is 1/2 inch shorter than the left. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thank you so much! xo
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I CANT WAIT TO TRY THIS ADJUSTMENT. I AM TRYING TO ADJUST THE TRUE BIAS RIO T SHIRT PATTERN AND HAVING A DIFFICULT TIME GETTING A COMFORTABLE FIT THROUGH THE NECK AND BACK. IT IS VERY FRUSTRATING BECAUSE I AM SMALL BUSTED BUT HAVE VERY BROAD SHOULDERS.
Thank you for this video. My fitting problem is I have smaller upper chest, plus a problem with pulling across the upper back, especially with woven fabric tops. You are awesome.
Hello. I love ypur videos which i found not long ago and I wish I could fix my issue. My shoulders look a bit like coat hangers when i am undressed, a knobby protuberance. My tops fall to the back and the shoulder seam is behind my shoulder and sometimes the fabric is tight across my back. I am not quite sure which adjustments i need to try. Thank you
Thanks so much, I'm happy you found me! I just finished up a new series "Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting" ...a streamlined approach to fitting tops where you start at the top of the pattern in what I'm calling the Blue Zone. Adjust the pattern for upper back, neck, chest and slope of shoulder before cutting a half muslin. Then work your way down into the Pink Zone to fit the rest of the pattern. I think this may be helpful for you because you can get the muslin to hang from your shoulders properly before going any farther... I feel like we may be "shape" twins. I have knobby shoulders that are higher than the slope of my shoulder :) Here's a link to Part 1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gNsFm8t_F8o.html There are also PDF companions that have step-by-step instructions and QR Codes to video tutorials to help you find what you're looking for faster! Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Mary Smith ...I’m so happy you found me too (I missed you 💓) Today at 1:00 pm est I’ll be sharing tips for embroidering in knit fabric... including new designs I’m working on.
I enjoy your videos and I learn something new every time I watch. Hopefully, you can help me now. I have a problem with fabric bunching up at the back of my neck on my tops. I made slits in the back to accommodate a possible high round issue, but the fabric does not spread open. So is it possible that I need less length in the back?
Thank you for watching! Can I ask you a question? Does the fabric on the back of your neck feel like it's being pulled to the front (tight across your shoulder to the front) or does it feel loose.?
Thanks so much for this tutorial. I have a question regarding the back of the pattern. After slashing and spreading as you demonstrated in the first adjustment, how would one cut this pattern on the fold since the pattern is now arching a bit forward? Or is a center back seam a must for that kind of adjustment?
Doing a high round back adjustment like the one I shared in this tutorial creates a curve in the center back seam. There are other ways to do this adjustment where you can stitch cut out on the fold. Stay tuned, I'll share that in an upcoming Fit Tip Tuesday! Thanks for watching
Great video! how would you fix it for a raglan top like the one you are wearing ie with a one piece sleeve? I have a woven blouse like that which is always choking me on the front due to my round back!
thank you so much for this video! I have an oversized drop shoulder shirt that is riding back to the point that the whole side seam is angled and the bottom of it is pointing towards the front. I am hearing advice ranging from FBA to reducing the back length. But I think I'm going to try these adjustments you suggest they make more intuitive sense to me!
Thank you so much for making these fantastic videos! You really saved my sanity, because I had such a hard time finding any information about what to do for this problem. However, I do have one question: is there any way to make the spread solution in the upper back without having a center back seam? I am not a big fan of the back seam. Maybe I have misunderstood something and you dont need it, just want to be sure - thank you so much again! You have given me confidence that I can make great fitting tops :)
You make amazing videos. Thank you. I've made these adjustments on normal t shirts. Do you have a tip how to solve this issue on a dolman shirt? Thank you in advance.
I have a forward facing shoulder, a sloping shoulder and a rounded back (whew...old age crept up)!! Do you recommend a specific order to making adjustments for these issues??
That's a great question. You can do the high round back adjustment before or after you work on the shoulder because it's separate from the shoulder area. Then you can adjust for the front shoulder and slope at the same time... Finally, check to see if you need to shorten the front (vertically)
Not sure yet if this will help with my fitting problem but you did such a great job explaining the why and how's for a beginner sewist! Really love it, thank you☺️
Excellent information!! Is there a way to fix a blouse that's already made? I made it, and was so disgusted with continually falling back that I stuck it in a bag to give away. But the trouble is, I love the fabric and the colors. If there was a way I could fix this, I'd be tickled! :)
Sorry to hear that! If you send me pictures I can see what’s going on (jsterndesigns37@gmail.com) … alternatively, why not cut the blouse apart and use the fabric to make something new :)
Thank you so much for your videos on pattern adjustments. I have forward facing shoulder, prominent shoulder blades/round back and a broad upper back… all of my clothes pull massively backwards (choking me when high neckline) - I‘ve done the broad back adjustment, forward shoulder (1cm) and round back with 2.5-3cm (after many trials the amount to add seems in this range). But I still get the pulling backwards (bust area is fine, B-Cup). On the Back of the garments there aren’t any draglines anymore and it doesn’t feel tight or the like. Where can I look to find out what do adjust..? The choking is solved - even high necklines don’t try that anymore, but it’s still pulling.
It sounds like you've already done a lot of good work! Can you send me photos of how your tops are fitting (front/side/back views) so I can see what's going on ... It would be helpful to have a pic of your pattern pieces too. You can email them to me at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com :)
@@JSternDesigns Thank you. I might come back to that. One adjustment that I haven’t tried is the option 2 in this video - adding to the back neckline. Is there an indication I could look for in my top that would tell that I need that (and possibly how much I need to add)? And I have one request: could you please show these adjustments for different style knit tops e.g. raglan and extended shoulders styles…? And also, I found if I add to the centre back length for round back my top side seam is not straight to the floor anymore/shifting forwards, so I guess the total centre back length is to long (well, obviously, when it was the right length before the adjustment) - I have tried to compensate for that by taking out about the same amount at the lower half of the centre back (above the waistline) - cutting to side seam (hinch) and overlapping. Is that correct?
That's a great question!! I don't think it matters if there is a center back seam or a zipper inserted into the seam (I think the adjustment can't tell if the seam is sewn or zipped up :)))) Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for another informative video. In that first adjustment where you made 3 slash lines and spread the back pattern piece to lengthen the back, do you also have to adjust the front pattern piece so that the side seams are the same length?
That's a great question! The three slash lines pivot at the armhole and spread the Center Back seam... The side seam is not affected.. just the center back seam is lengthened. Hope this helps
Thank you for explaining so well. I do have a high round neck and have made that adjustment on button up shirts with a yoke and it worked out well. My question is when I make the same correction on a blouse with the center back on a fold. Since the adjustment curves the center back forward a small bit, when cutting it on the fold it adds a small bit of fabric at the back neck edge that sticks out. How do I avoid that extra fabric? Thank you again for your videos.
I've seen sewers put a high round back adjusted pattern piece on the fold to cut it out... You either loose some of the curve by lining up the edges above and below the adjustment with the folded edge of the fabric... Or add fabric above the adjustment like you are describing. I prefer to add a center back seam so the shape is maintained when you cut the pieces out. (Remember to add a seam allowance to the cb edge before you cut it out.)
JB L :) keep me posted it you need help! Yes, I taught in Atlanta last year, ... hoping things get better so in person events can happen. In the meantime, I will be teaching some zoom classes for Stitches At Home in November ...stay tuned for details!
How would you add length to CF on a princess line bodice without adding length to the side seams? My waist balance lines slope upwards towards middle of CF. Thank you so much for all your wonderfull videos.
If you have excess ease through your bust, check out this tutorial. It shows how to remove ease in the high bust and add ease in the full bust (a full bust adjustment). You can do the reverse... instead of slashing and spreading to do a full bust adjustment, slash and overlap the pieces to remove ease. You can leave the high bust alone if you don't have excess ease there! Hope this helps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VMi2YjsA95M.html
Will any of these fix a tee shirt that pitches up in the center front? My husband’s master pattern fits SO close to perfect, but it still has a bit of a peak at the hem in the front that shoots out a tiny bit. I have adjusted for forward rotated ball, sloper shoulders and broad back as well as forward neck. I do have a photo.
Is the hem picking up at CF because it's not long enough to go over a belly? ... If that's the case, you can add length at the hem to straighten it out. Does that help?
@@JSternDesigns no. I’ve done a .5” full tummy already. Looking at the drag lines it appears that the center neck needs to be longer. That’s what is stumping me.
I have the opposite problem. Because of breathing problems the muscles in the front of my shoulder near the neckline are larger and the front neckline doesn't go high enough and pulls the back neckline forward. The shoulder seam meets the armscye in the right place, though. Could I do the same adjustment in front as you did in the 2nd adjustment you showed here, but just do it in the front?
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Yes, you can extend the front shoulder and take away from the back shoulder to balance the pattern so it sits on your shoulder properly. Thank you for following along with me
Hi - I have the problem that I get gaping at the back kneck and the shoulder seams are forward - it’s almost like the top is pulling forward - how do I fix this ? I think I have the right cup size for the pattern - thank you
So sorry for the delayed response. It sounds like you might have a forward shoulder ball. This would make the front shoulder too long and the back shoulder too short. You may need to lengthen the back shoulder so it can reach around to the ball of the shoulder... and shorten the front shoulder to get rid of the excess length. Hope this helps.
I am struggling so much to fit loose/oversized items! On more fitted items I seem to get away with 1.5 cm high round back adjustments plus 1.5 cm around the neck and maybe shortening the front by 1.5 plus a tiny full bust adjustment. But the oversized items seem so much harder to fit. No matter what I do they seem to rotate to the back 🙈. May I ask - do the adjustments have to be huge on the oversized items 2-4 inches? Or does it not matter that they are oversized and you should still expect the adjustments to be about 1.5 cm?
Every garment is different (even if they are not oversized)... Depending on how they fit you. You may need to shorten the front more to get it to stop rotating backward (and you may or may not need to lengthen the back) Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thank you. What I am wondering about is - is it true - that generally larger looser garments will need bigger adjustments due to the pattern pieces sizes of whether that’s completely wrong. Say if all my more or less fitted tops need similar adjustments will it be the same for the oversized garments or should I expect much larger adjustments?
I have the reverse problem. My shirt pulls down in the front and sits too high on the back of my neck. Whenever I ask people give me this fix for it. Can you help?
That's a great questions! Basically, you would do this adjustment to the front of the shirt instead of the back. This is shirt month at J Stern Designs, so I'll add it topic to one of my tutorials! Thanks for fitting along with me
In the last adjustment, I was just dealing with changing the slope of the shoulder. It may be that you would have to take away from the front if you had extra vertical length in the front bodice. There is not need to lower the armhole for this fitting issue.
@@JSternDesigns I think l have forward shoulders. Which l added to the back and took away from the front , which made the seam sit in the middle of the shoulder but then l got horizontal wrinkles going mid shoulder across the front near the neck and the same on the other side. Would you have any suggestions. Thanks
:) Thanks... I think you're asking for videos with shirts that have fitting issues? Usually when I do these fit tip videos & I'm answering a subscriber question, I try to include a photo of the fitting issue if they send me one along with the question! I was I had time to sew garments with specific fitting issues!! Thanks for watching
Necklines that shift back and shoke the wearer. When you make the adjustment of the 3 slashes into the center back how do you cut out the fabric? The center back isn't a straight line so it doesn't follow the fold of the fabric. Both knit and woven. Thank you.
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! You can slash through the pattern across the high bust and spread the pattern. This will lengthen the armhole, so you'll have to lengthen the sleeve cap too. Let me know if you need more help with this, Thanks so much
You can use this fit adjustment for both knits and wovens. Keep in mind that the adjustment you might need on a knit garment will be smaller because the fabric stretches... and I'm so sorry for the delay in responding to your questions. Thank you for fitting along with me
Shirts can "hike up" for a variety of reasons. Can you send me photos so I can see what's going on? jsterndesigns37@gmail.com (Then I may be able to help!)
Hello, I don’t know if this is the right place to ask a question but hope you can help with my armhole dilemma. I have been trying to draft a bodice. Every one I have done , including a purchased drafting system has the armhole extending at the armpit to the bust measurement which leaves me with a long expanse of fabric at the underarm because I’m going from a 13 1/2 front chest width to a 24 (48 low bust). I’m thinking I need to draft for the smaller size and do FBA??? Any advice would be appreciated. So far every where else seems to be a good fit. Thanks in advance😊
Hi Debbie... That's a challenge when you have to adjust your pattern like that... the short answer is yes, smaller size and an FBA... But Stay Tuned, I'm going to tackle you question next week on Fit Tip Tuesday! Can you do me a favor and email me your high and full bust measurements as well as your band measurement (right under your bust via jsterndesigns37@gmail.com) Thanks for watching
If the front and back pattern piece is the same, it's likely that there isn't enough vertical room to go over the bust, causing it to pull. Without seeing what's going on, that's my best guess... Hope it helps
My question is, should you be able to raise your arms up and not have your dress come up, after you make the adjustments in the arms arch? I hope I asked the question correctly.
Adding to the sleeve cap shouldn’t make the dress come up when you raise your arm... Usually this happens when the sleeve cap and armhole are too small. Without room to move inside the sleeve the snugness can pull on the fabric under the armhole, effectively pulling on the whole garment when you raise your arms. Check this weeks Fit Tip Tuesday for a tutorial showing how to add ease to armhole and sleeve cap
Hi! I have been struggling with this issue with my daughter. She is 10, with a child shape still. Her clothes only do this when she sits down, normal movement while standing and walking are ok. Do you have any idea which adjustment she might need? (She has a very narrow back too. Not sure if that makes any difference.)
