3 Reasons to do the Big 3 Upgrade on your car - How to on 8th gen civic si 

back in the day they used to make great quality cars and components used were much much better quality

That’s Honda for ya lmao

Heck yeah, these k series can start doin weird things because of a small loose ground -_-

thanks bro!

Note that my grounds were very rusted and I had a power loss of .5 volts on one side. So idk if that helps

thanks for the tip bro! Good thing I haven't driven her in the rain lately. I need to get the AC back up and workin 😆

5-10k for a stock one

I got mine in 2020, I think. it was 199k miles and I talked him down to 3500. Si keep their value even with high mileage

Never heard of it but my electrical system is running perfectly now

No, you cannot but you can use any bolt from the alternator as a ground for the "engine to chassis"

thank you@@Rawrkee

how about from the alternator both to negative battery terminal, can I do that? @@Rawrkee

@@Bee-jt5wo technically it can work but if you’re having electrical issues just ground the alternator straight to the chassis. It doesn’t have to be from the alternator, as long as the engine is grounded, that’s all that’s needed other than the cylinder head ground and battery ground

thank you@@Rawrkee

I'm glad the video helped out a lot bro! My prelude has been doing great, I've done a few projects here and there but I didn't bother to vlog it :/ I'll put something together soon :D

I didn't make the video but I can tell you. Absolutely you can if you do not have any upgrades that require extra electrical power than 4guage would be more than enough as long as it's pure copper wire. This is a great idea in fact because you're stock wires are likely not in good shape I know mine weren't on my 09 acura csx 😂

I did a simple upgrade by adding wires to the current charging system. You could remove the OEM charge harness and use your own but I didn't do that because I wanted to keep the video simple. In this video, I only removed that bad ground from chassis to the motor mount on the passenger side. Yes the OEM harness has additional wires, for the alternator and knock sensor. You could unravel it, retain those wires and replace the power wire. The battery has one ground, I just added another because that was I did to all the other connections. I just an extra wire to each ground to help the charging system

So pretty much, there are three ground wires and one power wire. Instead of replacing them, I just placed another wire on top of them

@@Rawrkee Thank you for the reply! I almost have everything I need to do the BIG 3. and I will be removing the old power wire and splicing the loom. I will also replace all the small ground wire with the 0guage ones.

yeah bro! I'm going to do this upgrade to the prelude very soon too but it's pretty much the same concept on all cars. Upgrade the chassis ground wires, battery ground wire, and power wire from alternator to positive terminal on the battery

I posted the links in the description, it's all custom made but you can probably find a kit. If you don't want to use OFC wire, you can use CCA but I recommend 1/0 gauge. I previously used 4 gauge CCA and it didn't work too well

I used 0 gauge for the grounds as well. I kept the OEM grounds and simply paired them with the 0 gauge wire. With them being so huge, I could probably remove the OEM grounds and it shouldn’t cause an issue. I should’ve mentioned that I was having draining issues AND my power steering would randomly go out while driving. Both issues were fixed after this upgrade

@@Rawrkee that's awesome. I have the same issue. Battery drains and my mechanic sees no power draw. Thanks for the quick reply!

Generally, there are 3 on most cars. Battery ground, transmission ground, and engine ground. You can try cleaning the mating surfaces with a wire brush, this upgrade is meant for upgraded sound systems

@@Rawrkee got it thks ... 👍

No, the CSX are light grey. These are fd2 headlights, they just have a dark tint compared to the CSX headlights

Yes, the civic runs fine and starts up easily. Originally, my power steering would stop working while driving but now it’s all good

Even if you upgraded the alternator, you would still need to upgrade the wires anyway. By doing this wire upgrade, you’re increasing power flow even if it’s not by much but it fixed my electrical issues and now my power steering doesn’t randomly die on me while driving 😆

@@RawrkeeONLY if you upgrade the alternator would you need bigger wiring. Now I say bigger, not newer. Sometimes wiring does oxidize or corrode (especially those pesky grounding straps, ew) which would merit replacement. However, for 90A you could have ran 6AWG wiring and been fine, even considering heat, resistance and voltage drop (which the engineers did when designing the factory charging system). Increasing wire size does not inherently increase current flow, it just decreases resistance from the wiring, but if the wire size is already sufficient for the rated current that the alternator is capable of producing, it’s not really doing anything for you. Basically, the wiring only has to be adequate for the alternator’s rated output because that’s all that’s ever going to flow across the wiring to the battery. With the wiring you’ve added you could easily run a 400A alternator haha Now the wiring AFTER the battery is a different story because the battery can and will output far more current than the alternator, so definitely not a bad idea to upgrade outgoing wiring, especially for loads that don’t have a constant current demand (like starters or amplifiers, etc).

K20z3 has a 120 amp alternator btw

​@@brandonhooker4498false

Any big 3 upgrade with pure copper wire will do you will just need to cut the wires to size and crimp a ring terminal with heat shrink on the end you cut. I recommend sky high car audio big 3 kit. If you do not have upgrades that require substantially more electrical power than stock a 4guage wire kit would be more than enough. Hope this helps even tho it's a year later😂