Which of these mistakes are you making? Let us know in the comments! Don’t forget to check out @PokerGiraffe for more strategy content from Qing Yang! ru-vid.com/show-UCJln-UR5qim3VvDfeQxYZKw
Love these videos. This solver is too complex for me to understand on my own, videos like this learn me how to use it and encourage me to buy another month of subscription. Those aggregated reports are a little hard for me to understand yet, but I'm learning. thank you for your amazing work!
@@r301pirate2 It feels like it, but I think we are many out there who does not just automatically understand everything in the software. it's pretty scary to dive into alone. Like when I remember Piosolver came. I'm not smart enough to figure that stuff out, and that's just how to use it. I really like Gtowizard, have tried it a couple of times now. But I can't afford that monthly subscription on auto. When I have it I usually just go check my line, but don't understand the ideas or how my strategy would differ on different runouts. It's not an effective way of studying. I think videos like this teach me concepts that's very important to understand not just how it is, but why it is. And when I'll use it in the future. Maybe I one day will understand how to use this solver into teaching my a more broad strategy understanding
@@jimz1024 I need more of these videos. I'm not smart enough on my own. I only play low stakes, so I don't earn money enough to invest on it yearly. I only buy subscription on events when it's poker daily for a period. I play Live tournaments which cost between 600-1500kr (56$-141$) Sometimes cheaper if it's home games, but that's a limp fest with Zero understanding of basics. that's an exploit only enviroment I do not play online, that's way too tough fields for me
please upload regularly poker giraffe. i think you are one of the best at explaining the technical side of GTO, something that many get lost in when trying to learn solvers. you break everything down to a very simple level, awesome stuff
I have a really difficult time understanding these videos. Partly due to the narrator’s accent and speech rate, but also due to the complexity of the material (I’m a gto noob). It would be great if there were a supplemental text with each video. I think I would learn a lot more this way and be much more inclined to buy the service. Because as of now, it seems very overwhelming to me, and I find myself avoiding it. Thank you all for all of your hard work. It’s very clear how much effort you put into releasing such high quality content.
On the 752, if its 2 tone, it has less equity than rainbow, sure, true. How does that indicate a smaller bet though? I get the equity math, but every unit of equity you lower your bet, is adding a unit of equity to your opponents hand. I mean, you're directly increasing villains pot odds every hand there is a draw out there. It would seem to play the opposite in reality, and you increase your bet when there are more draws, and lower it, for value, when it's a draw dead board.
Really nice lecture given! I have a question about the flop cbetting sizes on tt and rainbow board. In another video, you mentioned in a low SPR pot, we tend to fast play and bet big with our vulnerable good hands. However, in this video you said because the potential flush draws of our opponents decrease the equity of our over pairs and hence we need to size down our cbets. How do we balance the two arguments?
I had a question. Your analysis here contradicts to the one of the GTO wizard tutorials on "Where does the EV come from?". Essentially in there one needed to size up your bet if the opponent is calling your bet more due to the higher equity hands in their range. Here I think you are saying exactly opposite, if the opponent has hands with a higher equity you are asking to size down. Is it by any chance related to the wideness of the ranges?
This is a complex subject, but it largely comes down to bet sizing efficiency and how elastic your opponent's range is against different sizes. If villain's range consists of some traps and lots of garbage / mediocre hands that will struggle to defend against a small bet, then a smaller size is the most efficient. However, if their range contains many static bluff-catchers, then something closer to geometric sizing might be correct. The theory of bet sizing goes way deeper than this, but hopefully that helps!
@@GTOWizardThanks a lot for the explanation! I see the point. It is more related to the range morphology. If the opponent has a polar range, what I am saying makes sense but changing the opponents range to a more condensed range of bluffcatchers reverses this analysis. I presume at certain point the merged range is the transition point. I have a c-question, in case, by the river, if our range is poler and opponent still has a condensed bluffcatchers range then, IP do we size up? Also can you please refer to some content on our range vs opponents range with different morphologies (with toy game or hands analysis) and corresponding GTO strategies for them? Thanks again for your time!
is it correct to argue that on two ton flop, an other reason why hands like 99 fold more against strong size is because FD are enough in proportion to accomplish the MDF ?
I watched mechanisms of C-Betting and they talked about the dry to wet to really wet board parabola. How are we reconciling that analysis with this first board 752r that seems very dry. Is it because of the of the middle of our range is so bad? and that is prioritized over the "dryness" of this board?
If you consider the overcards to the 7, then this starts to look like quite a dynamic texture! It's the type of board where your overpairs have a lot of incentive to generate folds.
Hi, question regarding the third point. I’ve picked up on more than one place that betting the middle of your range on the turn is a polarization error. Betting KT on the AKx board seems that this does exactly that. Is this ‘polarization error theorem’ faulty? Is KT on that board not the middle of your range? Or what am I misunderstanding? 😊
KT is nearer to the bottom of your range in this case, because it doesn’t have much showdown value after getting called on the flop :) Don’t just think in terms of the type of hand you have-how much equity your hand has is a much better indicator of whether you have a bluffcatcher or a potential bluff.
Thanks for your reply, very much appreciated. I still have a long way to go, since the second pair with the highest kicker would in my mind not be near the bottom of my range. I guess the difference lies in the flop action? When there is a flop call the range gets more condensed I’m assuming and therefore SDV goes down
@@iohenkies yes, specifically when your range is very strong/hits the board very hard, and villain is OOP. All these things contribute to him calling much tighter on the flop than usual.
Hello, just a question about sizing down when the board is two tone on 752. As long as the population don't ever fold an overpair or top pair on this flop for a 3/4 cbet, I assume it's better to go for it instead of sizing down ?
Would also love to see if this applys to tournaments. Holdem is completely dead as a cash game format in my local area. Only Texas holdem tournament and 4-6card omaha for Cash.
