Pressing, ironing, and tacking properly are important to me. I highly recommend everyone purchase a mini-iron for those tough areas, it makes life a LOT easier when pressing.
In my youth I virtually always sewed at break neck speeds. 8 pm date meant a blouse needed to be cut out no late than 4 pm. I would always press seams, however once you truly learn the basics of garment construction you can learn to press more efficiently. Constructing a blouse, I would stitch the undercollar together, make both front darts, do the gathering stitches for the sleeve heads, sew both sleeve seams, gather the back and fronts for attachment to the yoke, and attach both the back and front pieces to the yoke before I would ever get up to press. None of the seams I listed crossed over another seam, so waiting to press them all at once was not problematic. There are efficient, time saving short cuts that can be done, but until you know and fully understand the entire process it isn't smart to cut corners. Basically, while you are learning it's best to avoid instructions that say "quick, easy or fast", because you're probably about to learn a bad habit.
Yes, pressing! That one, ( I admit) was going around, at first, and then, when I started doing it through whole process, it was sooo much different! Love all advices you give! Priceless! Thank you Evelyn! ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I have joint issues, so getting a mini iron to press as I go has been a game changer. Pressing on a rounded form was miserable with a full size iron, now it's a breeze
Advice on interfacing. I’ve tried lighter ones and I feel it makes little or no difference! Some seem not to fuse or I put the iron on it and it shrivels. It seems to go from gossamer to cardboard .. not a lot in between. I think a vid on this issue would be fab. LOVE your videos I learned so much.
I'm all about pressing. Also, my biggest addition would be properly preparing and cutting the fabric. All those steps like prewashing, ironing the fabric before cutting, folding it properlyif you're folding it, and properly preparing the pattern pieces and laying them out. Then carefully cutting out the pieces and marking the fabric with notches and other marks. Those steps make such a huge difference because it's so much easier to sew and sew well when I've taken them. My garments definitely suffer if I don't.
I think your comment in the midst of talking about pressing says it all - Do it the long way. This has has been a hard learn for me. My mum was a seamstress and I inherited her 'shortcut' mentality without the training. So taking my time, doing each step, attending to the details, and enjoying the journey of creating the garment instead of rushing through are still a challenge I'm working on.
That's the Pareto Principle and it is spot on. Also, seams not finished will fray and can get tangled up with each other which causes the seam to pucker horribly. Most of the time it can't be fixed. Ask me how I know!
Hand baste tricky areas, in addition to pinning. This allows for amazing placement and minimizes possible shifting when sewing. A walking foot can only do so much.
I absolutely hate ironing but, strangely, I love pressing when I am dressmaking! The one thing which was a game changer for me was understitching! I had made many things over the years but always had facings which would not lie down however much I pressed. Then I found a copy of Threads, an American magazine, in my local news agents here in UK.It had an article on understitching and I have never been so pleased to find a simple way to tame facings on garments. Another thing I learned the hard way was to wash the fabric before cutting out in the sameway it will be washed after it has been made up. When I was a teenager, what seems like a hundred years ago now, I bought some lovely fabric and made a frock to wear for a dinner/social my family were going to. I felt really good in the dress but the fabric began to smell awful! Had I washed the fabric first to remove any finishing on it it would have been fine.
When you said 80 - 20 I thought you meant something else. I always thing think that I am almost finished when the side seams, shoulder seams and collar is on... but I find I am only 20% done - I spend the other 80% of the time doing the finishing. Hand sewing down facings, cuffs, hems etc... I find that takes longer than the basic construction. Video on that? LOL
I hear you. 80% of the garment is done in terms of it resembling what it’s supposed to be…the last 20% (hems, button holes, and all the things) does take much more time.
My mother was a seamstress and I was always amazed that, even with my sister's wedding dress, the inside was as beautiful as the outside. She could have worn it inside out and no one would know.
It's a minor point, but that's different than what most mean when they talk about the 80/20 rule. It's true and important in most creative processes, but as a general guideline rather than a true mathematical rule. The mathematical 80/20 rule or called the Pareto principle, needs two factors to truly work in those percentages: equally probable items and additive probability. For instance, on a completely neutral platform with only peer to peer recommendations, the top 20% of creators will get 80% of the traffic. It applies to any system that builds on itself in the same way popularity or wealth does. Very minor point, but I thought people might get confused by the two different, independent principles.
I'd add choosing the right interfacing (and not skipping it altogether) and applying it to the right places and stay stitching! Both can make a big difference and require very little effort.
You are so right about fabric choices, seam finishes, and yes pressing! Pressing was one thing my JR. High home economics teacher stressed. The 2 things that have assisted me in elevating my finished garment are hand basting tricky areas instead of just pinning and not backstitching when topstitching, just pull the threads to the back and hand tie. Takes a bit longer but looks so much better.
Another detail that is extremely important is ensuring the thread and the fabric are compatible. Use silk thread with silk fabric, etc. Some of us had to learn the hard way and some lessons are expensive.
I've never had a thread compatibility issue. (50+ years) I do avoid polyester only threads when sewing as poly cannot handle the heat needed to press cottons wools and linens. Have never bothered with silk threads for silk - no issues. While I'm certain there are specialty applications where this may matter, so long as a correct weight and a quality thread is being used, there's not a tremendous need to precisely match thread fiber to fabric fiber.
I have done a lot of work in silk chiffon. Mostly little short sleeved pull on tops with neck facings. They never lasted very long When you use a strong thread to sew a fragile fabric, any strain on the seam causes the fabric to tear, ruining the garment irreparably. A weaker thread will give way, instead of the fabric, and the seam can just be sewed back up again. So now I use silk thread. It is not as strong.
I’m on the pressing bandwagon! I have a small ironing board beside my desk. I just have to rotate on my chair to press. Just this makes a huge difference. I even press the stitches before opening to “set the thread”. Well worth it. After that trimming to allow the seam allowances to lay flat and points to turn. It’s so amazing how just that attention can change your garment
I have a similar set-up. I can reach the iron beside my sewing machine without necessarily having to stand up. The only trick is to remember to turn off the iron. I've been setting the thread before working the dart on the ham. It makes all the difference... Hey Robin, how are you doing on this lovely, sunny day? - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 hey Cathy. Not doing too bad. I fell in the snow yesterday so I’m moving slowly. Had all my specialty appointments over the last while I don’t have adhd and the dermatologist doesn’t like my mole. So a biopsy is in my future. That’s going to be uncomfortable just because of location. It’s on my dominant hand palm. But that’s for future me to worry about. Today I have to go to the laundry mat. If the guys don’t give a plan soon I will have to call a repair person! It’s amazing how much setting the threads improve things.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Oh! Falling in the snow and ice sucks mightily. Glad you didn't sprain or break anything. Not having ADHD is a step. At least it means less medication to remember to take? Biopsies are no fun. At least it's getting a close look at, like it deserves to be. The location is super awkward, sorry to hear that. Laundry mat, huh. Bring a book. And maybe a cushion to make the benches not so owchie? I had my first appointment for my short-term therapy (15 sessions to fix 10 years of depression and PTSD... sure?). There's a book I have to buy because there's homework. The doctor is very certain it will make a difference. Took a year to get into the program, so I hope they're right. Right now I'm just actually finishing my FR entry. I decided to add padding at the shoulder hollow and the bust-point, as well as some boning on the lower, vertical dart. Actually makes a difference - go figure. Next is buttons and buttonholes. Been putting it off because it feels intimidating, I guess. I've never actually used the buttonhole foot on a finished garment; just the mock-ups (and results were mixed). Other than that? Just trying to clean and downsize everything. Le sigh...
@@stevezytveld6585 lol Cathy that’s the spirit!! And you are right I can hardly remember to take all the pills I have don’t need to add more! You got this! Get some scraps and do a test buttonhole to test your settings and tension. Then as the best is usually not the first start at the least visible buttonhole. Don’t rush or try to get it done if tired! But I thought you were all done and submitted? Is it online yet?
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 I actually submitted it without having the lining fully in, so It wasn't as big a thing to go back in and make the changes I wanted to add to the final garment. I'm calling it the Cos Tube Approach... where in 'done' is 'mostly done' and just be careful of my angles. I was working on it and photographing everything the morning of the deadline. Been taking my sweet time with it ever since. Buttons, buttonholes and then the lining goes back into place. Then my makers tag - the part that's keeping me going because I save it to the very last as a treat. Last I heard, things will be up in a week or two. As for not having ADHD - at least it's one less thing to remember to bring up with the health providers.
Press, press,press! Press the seam flat first, then do final seam press open or whatever your choice is. Next, always practice stitches on scraps of the garment with any interfacing, etc. That includes buttonholes. 😊
I always practice a few stitches on a scrap piece before starting a new project, but I have never thought of practicing on an interfaced piece. I will do so in the future 😉
Evelyn, can you do a video on how to choose the right interfacing? There are so many Pellon interfacing several that are lightweight, and medium weight, but how do I know what interface to use for the fabric you're using? Will the pattern tell us which interface to us or will we have to guess at it?
Pattern matching - choosing fabric with a pattern repeat is something ppl often avoid, however, theres no comparison to a garment that has fabric thats cleverly pattern matched. The impact is amazing! Ive been able to even pattern match irregular stripes on curved bodice seams and it looked incredible
@@Amandcr Ive pattern matched tiny sawtoothed patterns on english wool for a 1940's skirt - AND also pattern matched the woolen fabric from Outlander - Claires skirt from ep 2. The fabric was made available to the public in restricted amounts - and altho on the show its just a heavily pleated gown, with no seams, I used a bit extra to make a tailored hobble skirt, with a vented pleat - and WOW - is it an amazing result, esp as the pattern repeat is onlly possible in ONE direction. Its a very asymmetircial pattern repeat. You cant turn it upside down or back to front....but WOW is the result amasing, as it has heavy lines as well as faint lines! I really get off on pattern matching!!! Such a dopamine hit!
I agree with your top three! I find the biggest for me is pressing and pressing as you go. I see so many "me made " garmets that others make look like "homemade" 😕 Proper pressing take a sewing project to the next level.😉
I'm from the old school of thought, press as you go is SOP. Lord knows I had plenty of practice ironing on Sunday afternoons. That was before wash & wear and permanent press were invented. Damn, I'm old!! 😆 lol
I want to suggest that you make the right pattern choice for the shape of your body. There are so many styles available, but not all of them will look good on you.
I have a lot of lovely printed fabrics. I have become very picky about the handstitched hems. My collection of threads is enormous, so I actually use different coloured threads for the hem stitches, to match the different parts of the print. Also, when placing the tiny stitches that show on the outside, I place them right on the edge of the print motifs, where one colour meets the background or another motif.
Late to the party, but one thing that made a huge difference for me was understitching. I could never get neat looking facings before I learned (from your channel) how to understitch. So thank you!
That's not exactly how the 80/20 rule works. The real rule is this: 80% of the consequences come from 20% of the causes. It is commonly applied to productivity in terms of PRIORITIZING THE TASKS THAT WILL HAVE THE BIGGEST IMPACT. The trick is to figure out which tasks are in the 20%. For sewing, fabric choice and pressing as you sew are the top 2. I seldom give seams more than a zig-zag, but they are well-pressed. And it takes very little time to pick the right fabric for a design. It usually has recommendations right on the envelope. The time you are not spending on fighting a hard to handle fabric is time you have for pressing and seam finishes. I pay close attention to fabric grain - if it's off, that skirt will NEVER hang right. And if a printed fabric is printed off-grain I don't buy it if it's going to give me problems.
Pressing is the key for me, block fusing is also very helpful. I use a ham, sleeve roll, clapper and point turner, makes all the difference to my sewing. 🪡🧵💕
Just yesterday I took a picture of a couple of pieces that I sewed where one piece was pressed and the other one was not pressed and it is laughable to see them side by side. Of course the pressed piece had a flat, crisp and clean look and the unpressed pieced looked like a wavy bumpy mess lol. One thing that has helped me in my sewing journey is to 'plan out my sewing steps for the next day.' That way when I start sewing the next day, I know what exactly how I am going measure, cut, sew, press and finish for the day. Thinking about my next steps ahead of time allows me to play out the steps in my mind and mess up and rethink of better ways before I actually touch my fabric.
My Mom had me ironing handkerchiefs, I'm 75, befor I started grade school. I enjoy sew as you go when sewing. It helps my assess my work. You might do a segment on corners and curves. I use my corner and curve tool a lot. Indispensable. Catherine USA
Good counsel. Once you get past fabric selection, seam finishes and pressing, you need to concentrate on accuracy in cutting and sewing. Garment sewing is a great skill to have. It’s fun!
Yessss - Team Press!!! I’m always surprised when I see people post sewing tutorials and skip pressing. I find it difficult to take advice from a sewing that skips pressing.
KatJ: Sometimes they don't even press the fabric before cutting out the pattern. But I believe the worst is when the finished garment is modeled and it needs pressing/ironing so badly. I am embarrassed for the seamstress.
I hate to see some sewers who don't even bother to press their material before cutting it out. it seems to be something that young people don't bother with. It's one of the reasons I love Evelyn's wonderful channel. she sews like she cares❤
Oh yes, fabric choice... When combining two fabrics, colour blocking or similar, make sure the fabrics match in weight and feeling. Learned it the hard way, made a cardigan combining a softer french terry with a pretty stiff and heavy one, no nice fall at all - the result are now various fabric pieces which I'll use for other projects.
Evelyn, about pressing as you go -- I have to disagree. I feel it makes 100% difference. That is one thing that was drilled into me from my beginning sewing so many, many years ago. As you say, what could be a beautiful garment, can just be ruined by not pressing as you go. Also, the fraying on the inside seams can, and sometimes do, fray to the point of the seams coming out completely. Thanks for the video!
YES TO PRESSING! I taught myself how to sew decades ago after inheriting an old treadle sewing machine. Of course I thought I could just dive in head first. Didn’t no Jack squat about fabric, went right for the difficult stuff. But my greatest blunder times and time again during those first few months was 🥁🥁🥁 I didn’t press -at all💁🏻♀️ I thought of it as unnecessary, time consuming, tiresome. But I ended up with having to rip open a seam I just sewn bc the fabric wasn’t pressed and wandered under the presser foot in a manner I didn’t want to. Even when I managed to finally finish a piece, it ended up looking unbalanced, kilter. All bc I didn’t press my work each step of the way. Now I love to press. It saves time, it assures my work looks neat and accurate.
Thank you! I get better results by marking the fabric where it meets with little peaks and then pinning together and sewing. Even stay stitching makes a huge difference.
Yes to pressing (although how to press various fabrics can be a challenge - as well as those that just won't, the ones you could go over with a steam roller and they bounce back like nothing happened) Also a thing. Take a minute. I tell people this at work but really it applies to most of life, it's better to take a bit of extra time here instead of taking more time realising and fixing mistakes. So take a minute.
I have one tip. Learn how to clean your work in progress from loose threads right away. Seam is finished and backed few stithes on machine? Cut it! Learn to automaticaly pull new thread out and prepare machine for next seam. This way you would have neat seams and will avoid extra work after sewing everything together!
Press the tissue pattern and the material before you lay it out to cut. Don't know how many times I have seen on youtube women who just lay a wrinkled pattern on wrinkled material. How on earth do they get a good fit?
I am definitely in the pressing group! I would add when you take your time, and attention to details. We often want to rush in the excitement to get something done. All these tips kinda fall under that topic as well.
Definitely on pressing bandwagon. Self taught and like others learned the hard way about learning to enjoy all the steps of the process and not rush to end result. Having a dedicated sewing space where you can leave things out and pick up again next day is also a big help as no time wasted clearing up during a project. Clean up between projects though as a clean work space helps with good garment results too.
I have been sewing for years, but just have been sewing on cotton and the like. Recently, I purchased a new machine that does embroidery too, so I have began to reach out to make different clothing using different materials, as you spoke of. Lately, I made a shirt for my grand daughter (she is sensitive to materials) with a really soft material made from silk and poly ( I think it's called chiffon or something) and the shirt turned out so cute with such a cute neckline, but the neckline lays down instead of staying up, which was my fault. Although it does look lazy, the shirt turned out super cute.
My grandmother taught me how to press men's dress shirts many years ago. I love to press and iron and enjoy the results on my beautifully made garments.
Reading the instructions from beginning to end saves so much time. Lots of times I'll see a step and not understand why it's done at that point, or even how it's done (Vogue!). There also might be things that can be substituted ( iron-on vs sewn-on interfacings), techniques that I need to learn or practice, etc.
great tips - you are so right. the other one is to make sure to read the directions SLOWLY (often in my case means OUT LOUD) and don't skip over anything like one word that makes all the difference. Ask me how I know this...
Learnt the ‘check’ in nursing so solo I too talk out loud the directions Learnt this one only very recently ‘Measure twice Cut once’! If only I had known years ago!!!
Being more interested in historical clothing than vintage clothing I kinda approach it from as long as it's gorgeous outside and the insides behave properly I don't really care how it looks, but I do want to be able to make good looking finishes(and to know what good finishes look like because anything beyond a bias-tapes seem looks like garbage to me) for when I want those pretty insides (also, if you want a no fuss historically adequate for the Victorian era method for finishing your seams, try investing in pinking sheers, I was afraid my fabric would fray but it didn't move one bit)
Pressing is a key, but really, be honest with the measurements. Cheating on your body measurements and not making the correct pattern size hurts the feel of the final project. You will feel as though the garment is wearing you instead of you showcasing your finished garment. 😊
I would add: if you're using a cheapie machine, a lot of the times the problem isn't you! Sometimes you just need to get a better machine. Don't blame yourself for subpar tools!
How about including ‘read the instructions’? Sometimes I get ahead of myself and this usually results in my favourite unpicker getting used, definitely in the 80% effort for 20% result category.
As an alternative to clipping you can try "crimping" - try searching for "Let's Crimp!" to find a nice video of the technique in action. Start around three minutes in and soon after you get to see the action close up "at the presser foot". It's often used to help when you're setting in the cap of a sleeve but works really well on things like curved hems too. It's definitely worth playing with and adding to your "toolkit" because once you know the technique and how it works you'll find other things you want to do from time to time that it's good for too. You can get slightly different effects and amounts of crimping by changing stitch length and stitch tension.
Agree with all…but ..seam finish and pressing definitely the biggest tricks. My favorite apron completely fell apart…WHY? I did not finish the seams….hard lesson learned 10 years ago. Never made that mistake again!!
I love using hem tape on all my hems and sew them all by hand. I make a lot of flowy rayon palazzo pants from a pattern from 1973. The bottom of the pants leg is about 60”. I put something on TV. Then settle in. I also sew in all my zippers by hand. It’s very relaxing and I love the results.
Great video and advice! I have definately agree that it's important to press after every seam. Kind if wish I saw this before I purchased a rather drapey feeling, linen-like material for a shirt dress I'm attempting to make. (Decided to Frankenstein together a couple of different patterns to get what will hopefully be a wearable garment 🤞 🤞) Even though I did a mock up to see how I would need to alter the shirt half to make it fit me and the dress, the mock up fabric was a basic and very well behaved cotton. Very different feel from the fabric I'm using for the finished product. A little concerned that it might not come out like I'm picturing, but I know if the top doesn't come out right, I can definitely salvage the product by getting a wearable skirt out of it at the very least. 😅
Pressing makes or breaks a garment. I’ve been sewing 50+ years and I have a degree home economics. It is miraculous what a good press as you go system can do for the finished garment. Pressing is one of the most important steps in sewing.
Pressing does make such a difference and using a clapper makes such crisp seams. I do want to get a serger one day but first I want to get a little more skilled with my sewing & fitting. Also just not in the budget right now. However I do have a presser foot for my sewing machine that I love. It acts like a over caster foot but just like a serger it trims away the excess fabric. It doesn’t do to good on knits but works great on wovens. It’s called a side cutter foot. Mine is the brother SA177. No it’s not as quick as a serger but goes as quick as you control foot pedal. I think a serger seam is more attractive but this does put on a very nice zig zag seam that wraps around the fabric just like a serger. It really saves me so much time. Even when I decide it’s the right time to get a serger I will still keep my side cutter. It’s really great also when I travel. I don’t have to worry about carrying a serger. Also I don’t have to worry about all those spools of thread and loopers and all that stuff. It goes on like other presser feet & I just have to thread my sewing machine & bobbin like I normally do. There are many videos on RU-vid on it. One bit of advice if you decide you might want to try it. Stay away from the one that has the white plastic thing on it like the walking foot. Just go for one that is all metal. They work much better. Cost is also much cheaper than a serger.
Both my grandmother and mother pressed as they sewed...I didn't know you could do it any other way. LOL I did ask why once and I was told the pieces just line up better if you do.
When I asked if she had to choose between a sewing machine and an iron, my grandmother told me…you can sew anything by hand, but you can’t make anything look good without an iron
I press every piece of fabric before anything else and then I press between each step from cutting, pinning, sewing, and on. I adore pressing. My auntie and uncle owned a dry cleaner so pressing fills my heart with love thinking about them. ❤️ It’s like in that movie Chocolat when things taste better because the baker was happy, haha. I know all of it helps my finished garments because the finished seams become so sharp and crisp they almost look fake-not sure if that’s a good thing or not, but it’s my way so I let it be. Lols it also takes me forever to finish anything so there’s that, too… it’s more like sewing meditation. ❤️
love you and your show. But what happen to your green top. it looks like it doesn't fit properly around your arms, and the front is wrinkled. sorry your clothes always look so well fitted. love you
I learned to press my father’s Naval Officer dress shirts when I was around 8/9 years old. Mom hated ironing, I love it… standing meditation for me. So yeah, Team Press the He[[ out of things and do it again for good measure… make sure those seams are flat, your plaids and patterns match and do your darts properly.
