Good Job. I am looking at a local AD to me for one of these Boats. AD states needs keel work and Fiberglass supplies included. Only No Sails .All with trailer $300. I am thinking about getting this one . Restoring it . Learning on it. And then Flip for small Profit. Which I will then put towards a Larger boat later on.
$300 for trailer, no sails and a boat that needs some work is a STEAL. I would get on it . Assuming the keel work is super extensive it is worth it. Mine had a crack in the keel from water getting into the ballast, freezing in the winter and cracking the fiberglass. Wasn't too hard to ground out, reglass and paint and I'm no expert. I should do an updated video since I've done a lot of other fixes and upgrades to this boat. Good luck
Great video! I have a 1980 Compac 16 I am refurbishing. I am having to repair/replace rotted floor boards and stringers but trying to figure how to work in such tight space I am also contemplating removing the top of the boat for better access but it seems like even more work. Did you do any inside repairs?....any thoughts?
Hey. I have never taken the deck off the hull. If you think you are going to replace the interior stringers and floorboards, I don't think you can avoid removing the deck. This guy has a really good video showing how he did his. www.youtube.com/@kpetingkepting7855 The most I did was repaint my interior cabin. Which you can see in another one of my videos. I tried to get back to access a stern cleat bolt along one of my bunks and I got pretty clausterphobic. I sent my daughter back there on a little roller board to hold the nut while I took the bolt out from above but she saw a spider and freaked out. It's a tough environment to get anything fixed back there.
I’ve been looking at the compac 16 but have read that don’t point very well to windward because of the keel design and lack of centerboard for that size boat. I haven’t been able to find anywhere how bad they actually point or if that’s true. Could you give me an idea? Are we talking 30 degrees or like 50 etc? Thanks
It’s a boat designed for stability, shallow water and cruising. One of the trade offs of this is it’s pointing ability. Yes, it struggles when pointing. I’d say it’s somewhere around 40 degrees of “irons “ zone. Two things make this better. If you splurge for the foiled rudder this apparently cuts down on the no go zone. I’ve also found that running the jib sheets inside the stays helps in higher winds. Good luck
@@SailingrumrunnerII thanks for the reply. That’s really not too bad. No race boat but that’s not what I’m looking for anyway. I like the shallow draft and it’s ability to go gunkholing.
That's a tough one to explain. I had to buy some L-brackets that I used to support the PVC from the same supports that used to hold the wood guides. I do have a picture I can send if you want.
I have a 32lb thrust Minn kota. It gets the job done in light conditions but anything approaching 15knots and you’ll have a hard time going into the wind
