*Please read before commenting*. If not apparent to you; the stove shown in this video, has a small added enhanced burn chamber. It burns at a high temperature (1,100˚F+) to burn off the gasses that cause creosote buildup. So the much lower temperatures shown going through the heat reclaimer, do not produce creosote. Experimental information to use at your own discretion.
@@Bozemanjustin Justin, I actually did have a RMH of sorts in there for a couple of years. I used the rocket stove, (that you can see in an earlier video), I used this very same chimney heat reclaimer, and I had a metal shelving unit up against the back wall to hold thermo mass. I had a damper valve at the back of the stove so I could switch from the mass on the shelfs, to the chimney heat reclaimer. The reclaimer would heat the rooms up faster, then I would switch over to the mass until that got hot. I was disappointed in the type of mass I used, (about a 1,000lbs of pea gravel), and the space that it took up, and wanted to try something else. In the mean time, I took all that I learned, and made the hybrid masonry heater in the house, that I show in other vides. Thanks
I was sure that this was going to be just another one of those ridiculous changes to a woodstove and the flu that seem to be everywhere on the Internet. But I had a few minutes to kill and decided to watch your video. I watched with an open mind and no pre-judgment and I would have to report that I am absolutely completely shocked by what you have discovered and what I’ve learned from your video! I have always try thinking of ways to get more of the heat out of my woodstove and the exhaust flue. I actually considered one of those square boxes with the pipe holes through it that lets air come through and get warmed. I have also considered using a bunch of elbows on my exhaust flue and zigzag the flu back-and-forth and back-and-forth up to where it goes out. You’ve open my eyes and it feels like I just took the red pill because I could say with certainty that I think you’ve discovered something very special and very helpful for everyone! I’m gonna be heading to town soon to buy all the parts to make what you’ve shown in your video! Thank you very much!
I tried multiple elbows on the exhaust before too. I actually seen that on an old western; and where I got the idea to try it. This one isn't a whole lot different. There are few styles out there. Thanks for watching!
what he has done is create a heat exchanger… you could have just as easily created a coil of tubing inside and routed water through for bathing and washing too. the more surface area that you have the better radiation of heat you will have
@@doubleMinnovations is that stove taking air from outside to burn ever think of running maybe intake pipe do the secondary burner just curious love your setup looks great
Just get one of those heat activated fans. They're actually way better than they used to be and move a decent bit of air. I wouldn't cool the smoke in the flu... You'll have massive creosote buildup in that reclaimer. As a matter of fact, between that and the massive pot of FLAMMABLE WAX!! this is just a string of fire hazards all in a row. I hope and pray he never spills that.
This is genius. I'm a materials scientist with heat treating specialty. In industrial settings we "recuperate" with a similar method: countercurrent flow. Your work here is excellent and is well supported by engineering principles. Well done!
Yeah, that setup is nice because is passive. For 'correct' heat transfer, it needs to have the air forced downward so the air gets preheated on the way down and then exits to the room. That way the final temp reading is highest due to coming off the hottest parts of the jacketed heater before entering the space. The downside is quenching the exhaust too much on a stove like that will lead to creosote buildup in the pipe. ...and eventually start a house fire is it's allowed to build up.
This is extinction level dumbness. Insulating the fire box prevents the heat from getting out to the room. The top of the stove is 400F while the side of the stove is only 200F. Imagine if the heat could transfer through the side of the stove.
@@notapplicable430 With rocket stoves, the reason you insulate the burn area is to make the smoke hot enough to ignite to (over-simplistic, but the trick is to 'crack' the hydrocarbons). When done correctly, it's a net positive to deprive yourself of the initial burn to reap the heat from complete combustion. This application doesn't do all of that, it's more of just an illustration of a jacketed heat exchanger.
One other improvement you could make. To stop drafts from windows and doors, give your stove it's own air supply from outside. Then the stove wouldn't pull air through cracks and door seals to vent it out the chimney. As the room air heats it will sort of pressurize the room with warm air and drafts will be minimal if ceiling and walls are well insulated.
@@shmeli Debateable. Letting heat escape will reduce the efficiency of your stove, but pulling cold air in will reduce its effectiveness in heating the room. You will need to decide on a case by case basis what you need.
@messin with mike exactly on needing fresh air, in this video a fresh air duct from outside should be connected to the top of his duct, it will get sucked in and heated then distributed hot at floor level. Any air sucked in from outside (which every stove or fireplace does) gets heated first then used to burn the wood.
My Momma grew-up in the 1930's on a farm in Arkansaw (as it was spelled then, near Belleville) and they had a used tin wood stove for heat, NOT a CAST IRON ONE. MUCH LATER, they bought a cast iron cook stove (four cook top) second hand as they were share croppers and po'. The house first only had a fireplace for heat and cooking. You cooked one side and froze the other. She passed away in October at 93, fully lucid, and I have hours of videos of her and my Grandparents (and some of my Great Grandparents who lived well) telling about farm life. When they moved to Tulsa in 1942, my Grandmother cried as there was running water in the house they rented and two electric light bulbs. Carry water 2 miles from the "branch" of the Petite Jean River for EVERYTHING.
You cannot repeat stories about the "good old days" often enough. When people complain their life nowadays is so hard, they should know what our not too distant forebears had to go through, and maybe realise that for the vast majority of people things have improved beyond recognition, and be grateful for that.
For anyone watching this as a new burner, having a a heat reclaimer is truly a double edged sword. By removing heat from your flue gases, you increase the likelihood of the gases condensing in your chimney and building up creosote. This is mitigated by burning very dry woods that has been seasoned at least a year. You would also need a very ideal chimney height to produce enough draft. It’s the draft in your chimney that powers your stove - draft is what draws air into the firebox, and it is generated by the rising gases in the flue. The hotter those gases, the more draft. In the dying phase of the fire, the chimney needs to continue drawing air into the stove and out the flue. If there are any pressure differentials created, like a clothes dryer or bathroom fan, then having a weak draft can result in the flue reversing its flow. That will bring CO into the living space. In an old cabin, not an issue. But use this flue setup in the basement of a two story house with standard appliances and mechanical systems, then someone sleeping in the basement may not wake up in the morning.
I think most UK stove manufacturers recommend the steel flue has vermiculite poured around it if it passes through the old brick chimney for that very reason, not many do it though to keep costs down.
@@tangoone6312 yes. In North America, most manufacturers require insulation, usually a ceramic fiber blanket wrap, be used unless you can verify a 1 or 2 inch continuous air gap around the chimney exterior. But the number of uninsulated liners way outnumbers those that followed the instructions.
@@anthonyman8008 how hot is hot enough? Did you read my post or just the first two sentences? I specifically said in the dying phase of the fire, so the concept of hot enough in a stove that is decreasing in temperature isn’t really relevant.
As a chimney sweep, at first i was like, dang i bet all those corners build up with creosote quickly, but then i see you have essencally a catalytic stove for cleaner emmisions aswell as easy access to each section where the creosote would build up. So right on dude! Thats a pretty neat setup! Around here, we sometimes see where people who have blowers on their stove run it into their air ducts to run warm air with the a/c off. And that is also a pretty effiecent way of increasing BTUs. Hell, a blower alone does wonder on BTU's just from having forced heat flow, instead of just radiant.
Thanks for commenting! I pulled that heat exchanger apart about a week and half ago. -(yearly cleaning). I just got some fluffy soot. I did a video clip of it, and will include it at the end of the next video.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ru-vid.comUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
The fire box improvements and the flu heat exchanger are really great. As a former commercial insulator, I like what you did there with the 2" board. I've always used thermal mass myself(even built a successful rocket stove) but likely my next stove set up will be something similar to yours- primarily because I moved south and don't want to burn too much wood in the tiny house I'm going to build. Best wishes and stay warm!
The stove pipe heat recover is a great idea. I use a wood stove in my ( well insulated) 500 sq ft shop and burn free scrap pallets. For heat storage, I have cinder blocks stacked on top of the stove filled with sand. About 32 inches of pipe coming out of the stove is buried in the sand. Although not code anymore, the pipe turns at a 90 coming out of the sand horizontally and runs about 10 ft before it turns back vertical out the roof. I have a heat shield/cowling around that run with a fan blowing the air through. I work for 8-9 hours a day, leaving around 5:00 pm. Canadian winters with -30C overnight my shop is only 0 to -5 the next morning. I burn around 2 pallets a day when its that cold.
Thermal mass heat storage is a great idea, however, cinderblocks and sand are not dense and are a poor choice. Metal is a great storage material, if you could wrap your stove top in 700-800# of gold or spent uranium, you'd have the king of heat storage. If you have to settle for steel, I understand.
I was going to ask whether the sand and cinder block was meant as an insulator or heat sink. Would probably insulate more than hold and share heat. Very easy to install. Cobb is sand and clay and would be almost as easy to install in a cinder block mold that could later be removed.
@@carpediemarts705 The cinder blocks filled with sand act as a mass heat sink. ( free material on hand) The chimney runs through the sand for 2-1/2 feet as it exits the stove, absorbing all that heat during the day. It works extremely well. Example : I left my shop at 4:00 pm, I don't stock up the stove, and choke the air off to slow burn what ever is left in the stove. It was -14 C overnight and it was still 9 degree in my shop the next morning at 8:00am.
As a retired Chimney Sweep, I thank you for sharing your innovations. I love it when someone comes up with ways to get more out of equipment and devices. Most of my customers were never informed as to how take care of and operate their stoves when they had them installed and I was glad to help them understand the ins and outs of their units so that they in many cases could extend the time and reduce the frequency of needing to have their chimney cleaned.
@@_gramcrakka_82 Well, he has the "cool" or or"cold" air at the bottom which is sucked up by the discharged air out of the stove top which causes both the cold air to be warmed which causes cooling of the stoves discharged air in turn. Then the air coming out back at the top stainless elbow where the 'warmed" air comes back out into the room. The draw at the top of the flue draws the rest of the heated air out the top. Frankly, I am surprised that he gets a decent draw out of the top of the flue, he must have a very well done flue. I have had to fix many flue pipes that were not put in properly because there are many that can be done improperly when someone installing one doesn't understand completely the factors that can hinder the function of a chimney.
@@bozzojoe Yeah, I was wondering about the draw. You have 2 potential problems, the bends which will cause friction and loss of momentum for the flue gases as well as taking heat from the flue gasses which will potentially overcool them and cause them to drop rather than rise from the chimney.
@@bozzojoe from my understanding you only want 2 max 90°s. And running such a low temp really allows creosote to build. From my experience he would need to clean out he his flu multiple times a year to avoid any fires. Its a neat system dont get me wrong. But I'm curious to see the internals after just 1 month.
I have heated with wood and I am an engineer... I am totally amazed by your innovation... I really like when people take off the shelf items and make them work! Brilliant!
I believe you nailed the thermodynamic theory with an excellent real world implementation. Burn hot over 1,000 F with the insulated firebox for a high combustion efficiency to burn secondary flu gases. Then use heat transfer methods to get exhaust gas down to 150 F to maximize efficiency. The hot burn, thermal management, and heat storage are key. Also the simple consumer off the shelf or COTS design is definitely a pro move. I built rockets, satellites, and defense systems for a living and I am impressed with your design. I am going to build one to heat my garage! A note: since you burn hot you burn all of the flu gasses so you will not have any build up in you chimney.
Wouldn’t it make sense to supply the fire with cold outside air for better efficiency still? you would potentially have a greater volume of exhaust to pass through the exchanger- wouldn’t you then need to slow that down to allow for the exchange to take place? Or could you soak the heat better into a liquid for radiant floor heat? Some of both? So much wasted energy…
@@gregorykusiak5424 Yes you can always add $$! To go from 90% efficiency to 95%. It is the old system engineering 90-10 rule. If you make the mods you suggested then it will be more $$$$ and heat flow trades. If you inject cold wet air into the fire box you may or may not reach over 1000 F degrees. Also extracting.heat with water may also upset the heat flow balance. You would have to built and test. Time and $$$$$.
@@SlowRiderDucati I can add a duct booster fan for $15 for the cold intake side. I can double it on the heat exchanger side. $30 isn’t that much of an extra cost to me, but I can see how some mightn’t agree. If I were have to choose one or the other, I’d choose the exchanger input to move more air past the heat source, cycling the air in the room more often/faster.
Very ingenious, normally I'm against chimney heat reclaimers, but yours is a well thought out system, smaller firebox with a much hotter fire burns are the volatiles so as the reclaimer works and cools the flue gases down you dont have to worry about creosote forming as much since your burning way hotter then what the stove is designed for. It should be warned for anyone thinking of building something like this that its a must to also insulate the stove firebox because they work hand in hand.
There are many pitfalls to the heat reclaimer that really require a sound understanding of draft and creosote formation to be safe. Fine for use in a leaky cabin, but install this in the basement of a bungalow with an exposed outdoor chimney and standard mechanical systems, and something as simple as turning a bath exhaust fan on could create enough pressure differential to reverse the flue direction making the house a better chimney then the chimney is. Someone sleeping in that hypothetical basement may not wake up in the morning due to CO exposure.
@@ianhemingway5687 a CO detector doesn’t solve the problem anymore than seatbelts solve accidents. A CO detector should always be installed with any combustion appliance.
As a Firefighter of 20+ years I saw your thermal storage wax and shuttered. If that wax ever over heats, your begging for a serious house fire. Might I suggest getting some large pieces of soap stone as a MUCH better thermal storage system. I have heated my house with wood for the past 18 years and about 10 years ago picked up some soap stone cutoffs from a counter top maker local to me. They are just some odd shaped cutoffs and I placed them on top of and behind my stove with them sitting on some bricks to allow airflow and WOW what a difference they made. My stove sits on a brick outer heart in front of a old cooking fireplace (my house is 190 years old) and after having a large fire in the stove for about 8 hours we can let the fire die down and the soap stone and brick hearth will radiate heat for he next 18 to 24 hours. We only have to keep a fire going all day on days it stays well below freezing. Also, fire brick, by design, avoids absorbing heat and makes poor thermal storage, if you can't get soap stone, regular solid bricks work much better than fire bricks for it. BTW, absolutely love he heat reclaimed and am thinking about ways to make one myself, how did you seal the pipes on it up and did it affect your draft?
Yep; I have been well informed here about how stupid, crazy, and dangerous I am. 😁 In this set up, my stove top runs about 300-400˚F. The flash point of paraffin is 392-480, boiling point 698˚F, melting point 120-150˚F. I'm just trying to get it to the melting point, and with that much wax, it takes hours. Attention needs to be payed to it just like cooking does. I wish there was soap stone available around here, and at a decent price! The area of flow between the 8 & 5" pipe, is pretty much the same as the 6" flue. -so I haven't noticed any less draw.
Just thinking out loud, but I think some of the concern is having so many turns in the pipe. Must be your fire box mods making all the difference. Making the gases hot enough to scavenge enough heat for your heat exchanging to be efficient and the gases are probably moving much faster to reduce any Eddie's or disruption in flow. I think it's a good technique, but with a little creativity you could make it appear more sturdy. Maybe make a square frame around it out of some angle iron to anchor to. Just to the height of the stove top to add security to the 3 way junction. Could even add a little rack or hanger to the frame to place a poker or other fire place tools. Just throwing an idea out that I had, not trying to minimize your work. Probably a lot of neat things to do. The industrial/rustic look never goes out of style.
@@donavonrobbins1908 I haven't had a problem with the draw, even when first starting the fire. The area across a 6" pipe is 28.27. The area across a 5" pipe is 19.65. The area across an 8" pipe is 50.26. 50.26(8") - 19.65(5") = 30.37. The area of flow between the 8" and 5" pipe is greater than the 6". I tried a 4" interior pipe first, then the 5"; and didn't really notice a difference. Anybody can do anything with this, it's open source. All thoughts are welcome, and gives others ideas too!
@@doubleMinnovations I wasn't really thinking of any noticable draft trouble. I was mentioning those things as contributors to creosote deposits. But you have that taken care of with the high burn temps. Even at start up, any build up potential would be burned away shortly. I mentioned in another post a parlor stove in my cabin and using an electric oscillating fan behind it to transfer some heat off it. Sometimes I would place then fan in front of the open ash clean out and get the flames going to burn off a little creosote. It was a short run to a wall thimble (air gap design) to an exterior pipe that was well away from the log siding and a low roof edge. Wouldn't be able to modify the cylinder shaped burn box like yours.
@@donavonrobbins1908 Once I experienced some type of hot burning wood heating device, I never wanted to go back to anything else. But before, I always put one of those magnetic wood stove thermometers on the pipe where it goes into the chimney adaptor. Tried to keep that in the 'safe' zone. Hardwoods were always better, using pine is where potential trouble came in. Where I live now, there is mostly pine, and it works in a hot burning stove. Thanks for sharing!
This is a really smart modification! Thanks for sharing. Also,another great way to improve efficiency of a stove is to set up an air supply from outside the house,so that the stove doesn’t suck warm air out of the room and up the chimney. 👌
I would think twice before doing that.. one of the great benefits of a standard stove is that it does indeed suck air from inside the house and sends it up the stack.. taking with it a lot of moisture. When you dry clothes inside the house with normal heating being used, you get condensation all over the place, esp in the windows.. this does not happen if you have a stove running. So running the stove keeps drying the house inside. But if you supply the stove directly from outside, you won't get this drying effect.
@@wotcherfaz This stove is in the barn, so not too concerned right now about the air. I found the directions for the installation of this stove, and they recommend the air comes from the room, and not directly from outside.
What I did is pipe 4" schedule 10 PVC into the house behind the stove. It's not directly connected and maybe only supplies 95% of the combustion air. No drafts under the doors. Our dog goes in and out every hour or 2 so that probably vents the house. We hang all laundry inside and no frost issues.
As an hvac tech and contractor, I would suggest combustion air piped directly to the fire box so that the stove doesn't pull a negative pressure on the structure. Wood stoves and fireplaces need air from somewhere and a leaky building allows cold air to be drawn from outside. In this case the author mentioned that it had been below zero Fahrenheit for 2 weeks. A source of fresh air piped to or near the stove would allow the cold combustion air to be heated as it feeds the fire. One customer I visited had gone so far as install a small electric heater in his combustion air ducts that were controlled by a dry bulb thermostat (I think that's what he used. ) One idea I think about is how can the warm air from a wood stove or even a gas log be distributed through the house so that the "Great Room" where the stove is located can share it's heat with other parts of the house. I like the idea of a wood boiler with 2 windows so that the residents and visitors can see 2 flames ,the primary flame and the gasification flame,there's a boiler like that made in CANADA though I probably shouldn't mention it's brand name. I've got an idea for a duct booster fan for the 5" pipe array that would only run when the air circulation system is warm. Good video. Interesting
Great video! I recently moved into a home that had a really beat up Regency i3100. The previous own at some point installed it himself and had this beautiful stove insert exhausting almost directly into the flu. It did have a liner, but it was not capped, and when I removed the stove for repairs I could see it was likely not attached properly its entire life. I took it upon myself to repair and refinish it. After watching your video, I appreciate the modifications you made to the firebox as they are similar to what i had done to mine. For my baffles, I used Ceramic Fiber board, and furnace cement. I cut the boards to fit perfectly flush in the top of the firebox above the airtubes. I used furnace cement to cover the areas of the fiber boards that would be in direct contact with flame. It added rigidity to the baffles and also protects the fibers from careless loading of wood.
The stone hearth around my woodstove is about 7 tons of masonry. After a good long cold snap, the heat emitted from the stone lasts about 3 days... heating the entire 1500sq ft house.
@@gtanom He explains the silver color tube just goes thru middle of stove pile, so heat in stove pile heats air in silver pile. At top has to be sealed well
@@gtanom No smoke ever goes into the silver pipe. It's a smaller diameter silver pipe inside of the black flue pipe. Where the silver pipe enters and exits the black pipe, it is sealed off.
you can use metal 5 gallon buckets filled with road salt. put behind your stove they will store heat ,plus hot salt melts ice faster for your driveway or walkway .. been doing that one for years 🍻🍻
@@doubleMinnovations At some time in the past I have read about it for solar heat storage. I recall it being a liquid solution and had a phase change involved. The result was days of gentle heat return.
They use molten salt in solar thermal plants, but you need very high temps to melt salt... Although there's probably a mix that a 400 F stove could melt
Using my wife's computer. A small refinement out of left field. If you spray the outside of the stainless steel wax pot with high temperature flat black spray paint, it will tent to give up its heat to the room better, radiating out into the room, better. Shiny silver colored surfaces tend to keep heat in. A process called emissivity. Shiny silver does not like to radiate out heat. Acts a bit like insulation.
I've watched a bunch of vids on this topic, but this appears to hands-down be the simplest, most effective, no-weld way of improving a stove. Great vid, this is the design I'm going with. Thank a ton for sharing.
With a fan added and built into brick fireplaces, that thermal siphon is called a "Heat-O-lator" and improves a fireplaces ability to heat a room and even a house immensely. We had a large, corner fireplace with a 36" firebox (measured across the rear of the box is the true measurement of a firebox) and a floor to ceiling brick build with a Heat o lator and it did warm the whole house, with the addition of a properly positioned fan in a hall entrance going to the back of the house. I miss that fireplaces to this day.
Use simple heat reflector on that wall behind the chimney. It receives quite a lot of radiation and the heat is pretty much lost on it. Radiate it back into the room using a celophane (aluminium) foil and some insulation. They make such blankets with one deflector side for cars. Use another reflector on the ceiling on top of the heating elements. A lot of heated air accumulates there and its radiation needs to radiate downwards.
This is an excellent video. What he is doing is reducing "quenching" by not extracting heat before combustion is completed. This where most woodburning stoves fall down. Google quenching to understand the principle.
People in the United states don't understand cold unless you live in a cold climate like MN, Northern NY, Wisconsin, Montana , Michigan, northern Illinois, VM, Main and NH where the temps in the deep winter can get below -25 F from Dec to April. People that do videos like this are priceless to help others to stay warm.
I think a lot of people are aware that winters are cold around places like this, if they are asked. They just don't know why anyone would want to live around here. Northern MN is has a lot of wilderness and freedom, so that's why they put up with the winters here. That's for commenting!
@@doubleMinnovations Same thing with NY, there is allot of wilderness, people think of NY as NY city only, NY actually has more farm land than many midwestern states believe it or not
That is brilliant; two minor suggestions. First one could allow the chimney to be straight up, but bulged, and fit the 5" pipe inside it but coming out left and right, but with a single 5" intake. This would allow the main chimney to draw better but still give you a heat exchanger. Second one could use a spinning vent on the 5" outlet to distribute the heat.
My respect to you Sir. I really appreciate your time and effort to do this video. You are helping a lot of people. Thank so much. Carlos from Whitby, Canada.
Please do not use wax on top of your stove ..... If anything goes wrong there will be an uncontrollable fast spreading fire... I always put my heat storage behind the stove in the form of a brick wall because it is non farmable and stores lots of heat and looks good . When you keep something on the top of the stove for heat storage you also SLOW down the natural heat transfer that comes directly off of the stoves steel plate. Much better to put your heat storage behind or beside the stove.... I really like your double stove pipe idea. Also always using TEEs instead of 90's is a great idea so much easier for cleanouts...
Yes!!Yes thank you for understanding that o my....if you soak up heat the stove will not be as efficient and that was IS super flammable. Finally someone who gets the physics and common sense of a heat source. Those candle heaters with pots on top of them which people are freaking out about...they believe the pots over the top of the candles create more heat. It's just because they have now heated up a clay pot and now feel the heat accumulate. The candle still pits the same heat out, but try to explain to them that all they are feeling is heat storage, same heat being created with or without the junk. But now they warm up their hands and cannot understand it is actually material that has to bd heated which then slowly releases the same amount of energy in a small room. If you were in a drafty shack it would be ok, as the heat would only escape from the bare candles. But the room will circulate air, and the uncovered candles will put out ths same exact amount of heat. Youre the first person in comments who understands....sorry, Ive been pulling my hair out over this! Lol
@@stevesteve8264 Sometimes it is just easier to just say " I can see the future " than explain how things really work ..... Your candle and clay pot is a great example.... My neighbors bought and replaced all of the electric heaters in there new house with NEW HIGH EFFICIENT electric heaters. True enough the heaters were high efficient in space savings. The older 1000 watt heaters were 4 feet long and the new HIGH efficient heaters were only 30 inches long due to more aluminum fins size that the older ones which made them very efficient at catching dust - wow they were the same wattage but shorter with a new name.... Sorry story... There was an older woman who was taken to court for paying for her newly replace electric baseboard heaters. The judge asked her why she did not make a single payment ? The woman replied that the nice young man that sold them to me told me that they would pay for themselves in just one year so there was no need to pay for them.. The charges were dropped and a very very long term payment plan was made for the woman because she was on a small pension..... Hopefully that sales man will not target the elder any more....
Wow! I never knew about wax as a phase change material for storing heat. That's just brilliant!!! It means you get a constant 220J/g released at a constant 60 Celsius as it solidifies. That's perfect for keeping a room warm, compared to water where you get 4 J/g released for each degree Celsius the water cools by. So you would need to get a 55 degree Celsius cooling of the water to release the same energy as the phase change of the wax. Of course, under that scenario the water would be scalding hot and thus cooling rapidly at the start, and by the end be too cold to make much difference. Thank you so much for this. I always thought my woodstoves could be improved, and now I know how! THANK YOU!
Looks like you have been reading up on this! Still need a better way to heat the wax up. It takes too long I think, compared to wax melters you can get from Amazon that can melt 9 gallons of paraffin in less than 20 minutes. This takes around 3 hours. Also need quite a bit more to be real effective. Maybe some type of heating loop of water from the stove to many containers of paraffin. I seen some information about a solar heat storage system like that. Just thinking... Cheers!
@@doubleMinnovations Well, I've just bought a load of second-hand solar panels (pv) and was looking for a way to store the energy directly as heat when I stumbled on your video. Here in the UK we have lots of days in Spring and Autumn that are sunny in the daytime but cold in the evening, and I live in an old house that is hard to heat, so I had been thinking of hot water or maybe gravel chips, but then I saw your video and was totally inspired. I never even thought about phase change heat storage before. Yes, I am sure you could use piped water to transfer heat from the stove into the solid wax to melt it quicker, and if you had the wax is in a tall thin tank, it would be like a wall radiator.
Now duct in with dryer vent fixture and hose, outside make up air so you can enjoy 35% more heat. Dont burn already heated air! Burn cold expansive air that balances your system to neutral. I did/ do. Works a charm.
NO! It isn’t brilliant, it’s foolish! When that wax gets hot enough it will catch fire. What little bit of thermal mass that pot of wax has is not worth the trade off for the amount of risk it creates. Would you put a newspaper on top of the woodstove if you thought it had thermal mass?
I watched it all, I got a new to me steel stove new fire brick. The 1 thing I had to do was cut a outside air Intake for the firebox,,, what a big difference 5x the heat, no more cross drafting or sucking in Cold air. Cut my whole consumption of wood and LP gas in Half ore better. Must get outside air Intake. Best ever.
That heat reclaimer is excellent! I've seen something similar for heating a tent with a log torch, but it never occurred to me that it had broader application than that. Well done!
I really appreciate your thoughful diy engineering on your project, especially using the infrared thermometer to show the actual operating temperatures at different points in your completed system. (Too many diy experimenters just use unscientific terms like hot, warm, and cool to describe their heating systems - almost useless if you ask me. All they need to do is buy an inexpensive infrared thermometer, like you did, and collect real time performance data on their designs to demonstrate real world performance characteristics. That way further system improvements can be scientifically compared with earlier versions to see what new features actually work well.) Some things that all diy wood stove experimenters need to be mindful of: -Ignition temperature of any phase change wax used as thermal storage -Points where creosote might condense due to ideal condensation conditions -Maintaining complete combustion conditions in the firebox -Proper exhaust gas venting under all weather conditions Some opportunities for improvements: -Thermoelectric fans powered by solid state conversion of heat to electricity -Arduino controlled & powered outside air supply for direct vented combustion & thermostat control -Active heat storage via thermal transfer fluid piped to a thermal storage battery -Improved heat exhangers for greater operating efficiency All that said, this was a very creative & inexpensive diy build that appears to work as intended. I really enjoyed watching both videos to learn more about it.
It seems to me that it might be beneficial to pull cool air from outside your house to feed the fire somehow. Otherwise your fire is pulling the warm air that you worked so hard to heat, and then sending it out your stove pipe, creating a vacuum in the room that can only be filled by fresh cold outside air leaking in through every gap in your doors and windows. You would need some type of insulated and sealed intake pipe through your floor or wall that sucks fresh outside air directly into your stove without allowing the warm air in your room to be pulled into the stove for combustion.
There's lots of thought on this. If you take the air directly from the room, you can get rid of the stale air and replace with fresh air for breathing. But the air going to the fire needs to be replaced somehow. Most of the newer houses have air exchangers that balance out the air. I have one in mine. Right now in the barn, the air is replaced from any cracks and going in and out the door, and the fire is only going for a couple of hours a day. So I'm getting by, but will do something better to replenish. Thanks for commenting!
@@doubleMinnovations Why go through all this trouble with changes to your sove and chimney for only a couple of hours of firing???? Why not just buy a stove with a very high KW in the first place??? I bought a stove last year with the highest KW you can find, and after an hour my entire house is warm, from 17 degrees celc. to 23, and this is both in the basement and first floor. I am from Denmark, and for the last 150 years we have had some of the most innovative and productive stoves in the world. Go check it out. Names like Morsø and Varde Ovne and Meteor.
@@cecwill This is an innovation channel. I improved what I already had, and it didn't cost any money. The stove is still intact, I just rearrange the fire brick and added some left over insulation broad from the masonry heater I build in the house. The stove pipe heat exchanger is one I made over 4 years ago. The 3 hour burn time is to heat up the thermal mass; the stove is off until the next day. Just want to keep it above freezing. Burned it for 2 hours yesterday. It's -23˚F outside this morning, with a wind chill of -35˚F, looking for a high of -1˚F. Got water for the chickens this morning in there, it's about +35˚F. 3 hours of burn time today will heat the place up to +70˚F and warm the thermal mass. Just using a very tiny amount of wood. No reason to spend money on some other expensive wood heater, when I got efficiency now. If you watch some of the other videos in this playlist, you could get a better understanding of the situation here. We may put a gas furnace in there at some point.
Brilliant - my grandfather did something similar with the pipe design, but with this fireplace in the basement. I never thought about having something on the stove that held the heat. Appreciate you taking the time to make this video - these are the things that should be passed on. Im building our home in the heart of the Colorado Rockies, and I am trying to make the home as energy efficient as possible, so I am putting a wood burner in the basement and this design with be perfect!
You may like to look at the videos I made for my hybrid/masonry fireplace. "ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ldqGQHpM2_8.html" Have been using this in our house for 5 winters now, and what I would really recommend. It was a lot of work, but has been well worth it! Thanks.
I live in a stone 1890’s railroad line cabin….Installed very same stove,and it was a flop….Removed all the fire brick,welded in two variable intake drafts on each side (low and toward the front,2 inch),adapted flue pipe from 6 to 8 inch,and installed a fan forced flue heat reclaimer….It’s a fire breathing dragon now….Leave output damper at three quarter closed,and close intake drafts the same….Last all day while I am at work,got coals for restart when I get home….I soak restart pieces in a bucket of diesel that is kept outside….Throw couple of these in,load up the wood,and crank dampers to wide open….Roaring again in five minutes
Great video. You're following fast burning masonry heater principles there... We have a Finnish counterflow style and our chimney temperature is around 90 C after passing through all the masonry. So you're getting as good results for a fraction of the price. Really good.
The masonry heater in our house is a counter flow too. And I think the setup in the barn is burning just as clean; according to what I clean out. -I make videos on that too. Thanks for watching!
Great heat exchanger. I have square metal pips to make 2 camper-type stoves 12 x 8 x 16. It's been on the back burner because I was trying to figure out how to insolate with brick.... fiberboard is the answer much lighter and can trim really nice.. Looks like both your ideas work hand in hand. Thanks for the insight!!
Call me silly, but I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why he'd insulate the walls of a woodstove. Is he trying to keep the heat from escaping... into the room he's trying to heat?!? He's basically forcing all the heat out the flue and up the chimney. Fire brick isn't a great idea either, but at least it acts as a heat battery. The wool doesn't store much of any heat but basically just keeps it in the stove.
Great video, I’ve got an old monarch paramount wood cook stove in my garage that I love to use. It works great for cooking a pot of stew and brewing a pot of coffee as I’m working in the garage but it just doesn’t put out quite enough heat to really keep it warm on a chilly Minnesota day. I’ve been kicking around ideas for awhile now and seeing your video was a big revelation, I love your chimney pipe heat exchanger idea and I am going to try to adapt it to my stove. Great tip on the pot of wax as well, that would work great for me as it’s already a cook stove with a nice big flat cast iron cooktop already.
Thanks. Just remember that melting wax needs attention just like your cook with a hot oil. You don't want to over heat, just melt it. Check out this video I made about it, because some people have great fears of melting wax. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qg_s9IzF8sw.html
Love the dynamite box !! I used to have the old ones around. I remember going to the hardware with my great grandfather and buying dynamite,fuse and caps. Everyone could not believe it??? I told them that was when America was STILL FREE !!! You must have a very good draft on the chimney. Just keep it cleaned. I was in the hearth business for years. Started installing stoves back in the early to mid 70's !
As a certified systems designer for 20 years, I can assure you that this system does heat more efficiently than a properly installed quality EPA appliance. You could get better performance without sacrificing safety and insurance coverage, and have a system that will be more durable, if you asked a certified advisor for help. I do applaud your work. Many of the innovations in our industry come from people trying things, just like you have. As for outside air, it's benefits are a myth. Using inside air creates a more reliable air supply with an equal net efficiency to using outside air.
I can only get partial coverage on the barn, because they want a primary heating source other than wood heat. My house is fully insured, because I do. In the house because I have propane boiler radiant heat as the primary. They were fine with my home made masonry heater/fireplace as long as it had an approved chimney, and had the proper clearances from combustibles. They didn't care about the detailed function of it, and that's not UL approved of course. Thanks for all your thoughtful input!
The thermosiphon chimney heat extraction is very smart. Nice work. I’m working on a water heater, we don’t need space heating, so it’s going to be quite different
I saw a set up with copper tubing in a spiraling circular motion that set on top of a wood stove and went to the heater next to it. There was quite a bit of copper tubing used.
You could probably really increase the efficiency of your thermo syphon by finding a way to agitate the air as it goes through keeping it in the chamber longer. A cork screw effect would be ideal I think.
That is a kent brand stove. Those are emission stoves. I had one and modified the air vent in the back to control the smoke burner. I also cut the tab off the damper in the front so it will close all the way. After that it worked much better. Nice pipe!
Great work chap. truly fascinating stuff. To see the stuff you (sort of) know, in action is great, I love it. And you very obviously have a great mind for it. My concerns, if I may, mainly rotate around it being on RU-vid really. In the UK, we are very very guilty of burning wet mucky wood, which condenses and many causes chimney fires (scary stuff you'll agree), which is why flue heat exchangers are really frowned upon here. Saying that, burn dry wood, and you can enjoy the ingenuity you've demonstrated. Id really hate to see it in a dank British farm house, with a big pot of scalding wax balancing on a shonky eBay stove. They walk among us. Be safe, and carry on regardless. (*England has lost its common sense on solid fuel fires, being so dependant on gas and oil for way too long. amount other things.)
Thanks for your comments Ben! If I was trying to use damp and unseasoned wood, I don't think I could keep the fire going, because the draft is always wide open. -you need that for a fast hot burn.
@@doubleMinnovations Exactly. Trying to boil a log pooing tar up your flueway. Burring seasoned timber should be common knowledge/2nd nature. Sadly, it really is not. Worth mentioning in the future maybe? Thanks again chap
Great ideas. I love your wax. I sugest you put it in a locking lid presure cooker pot with rhe vent open so if it ever gets bumped off it wont sill very much. This will reduce fire or skin burn potential. Why not stack the extra bricks around the sides on the lip and mortar in place. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for your ideas. I do put bricks around on top of it. I took them off for the video. If you look at my latest video on this subject you can get a better feel for the way it is. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hopXmMXrqAY.html
I like the thermal storage idea, very similar to utilizing the mass in soapstone heaters. In a Scandanavian Soapstone heater, you burn a very hot fire for a few hours, then let it go out. The mass of soapstone is heated by that fire, then radiates heat out into the room for many hours. It gives you a very even heat, not a hot and cold cycle. Instead of having to feed the fire fairly often as with your heater, you feed it once or maybe twice a day, depending on how cold it is outside. Radiant heat is good heat! I have a simple box heater with a large flat top as part of the firebox. I think I could fit 3 of your wax pots on its top. I may try that! If I had that heat exchanger contraption on my heater, then my home owner's insurance would cancel me! HA HA They would not like its appearance, no matter how efficient it is! My wood heater does have a recirculation draw so that smoke and gas is drawn down through the fire once it is up to operating temp, but I still have to clean my stainless steel chimney once during the winter cycle due to creosote buildup. I think it is due to how often we have to feed the box. About every two hours we add 3-4 sticks...or whenever we have a nice bed of coals from the previous sticks.
The masonry heater/fireplace in built in the house has many tons of thermal mass, and we just have short hot fires in it, once or twice a day. (videos in playlist) I definitely don't have enough thermal mass for the area in the barn where this stove is. Thanks for your interesting comment!
I would definitely be concerned about house insurance issues. Even not getting my wood stove professionally cleaned annually puts me at risk of insurance not covering a house fire.
I fully expected to see yet another person who does not really understand wood heating appliance design. Then you opened with stating you added insulation to the fire box. Good job sir your right on point!
This is great, .......but for those who can't make something like this, don't forget the most simple idea. Stove pipe itself is a heater. Having as much stove pipe exposed inside the room (say 10 feet) is then a 10 foot heater. There are a million wood stoves in North America where the stove pipe goes right up the chimney or directly into a brick wall behind the stove. Also, the stove pipe does not have to rise "straight up." The old timers would wind 15 feet of stove pipe around the room at a good angle to make that part a heater. Yes, the colder the gasses get before reaching the attic part of the chimney, the more creosote, so winding around a bunch of stove pipe can cause problems if you can't clean it yourself once a year.
All wood burners should have their air intake from directly outside. A 2-inch pipe is good enough, then through a check ball valve. This will cause the room to fill up with warm air...like a balloon. Where as without it the stove will pull in all the warm air that's in the room and back up the chimney, along with creating cold drafts.
Thanks for the video production and wisdom of sharing the efficiencies of a wood-burning stove. It would seem to me that building a dense Rock, such as granite cubby hole, to be absorbed into the granite would also be a good way for storing BTUs. Note: The yodel stove is the best efficient stove I've ever used especially if you're burning Locust and Hickory. I do like your stovepipe, very interesting concept. One could put a low voltage fan on top of the knuckle to blow more warm air out.
@@vinquinn I wanted this to be passive with no need of electric. When the coolest air at the bottom of the room get pulled up and heated by the exchanger, it needs to be replaced by the layer of air that's just above it in the room. So that drops down, and is also pushed down by the exiting hotter air after the heat exchanger. That cycle continues and the room heats up. It seems to work just fine. Thanks for commenting!
have you thought about a tubing jacket inside your re-claim side chimney? maybe for some on demand hot water or running tubing elsewhere for a radiant heat source in a different area if needed?
This video is an extremely well presented and explained tutorial. This gentleman has thought through the issue of wasted heat and successfully captured a considerable amount of it. I live in the upper mid west and have a built in wood burner that consumes huge amounts of expensive hard wood. I have often wondered how much ($) heat goes into the atmosphere and is effectively wasted, this video explains that very well.
I am really interested on the wax heat storage part of your system heat retention. What is the heat storage ability of the wax compared with water Sir ??? Very interesting methods you put together for efficiency. What else could you do to increase the heat output of this stove ??? Nice work fella too.
Reports I seen don't seem to be real consistent with comparing paraffin and water, and vary. (one favorable quote): "Paraffin wax stores 5 to 14 times more heat per unit volume then sensible storage material such as water, masonry, or rock." Source: "ijariie.com/AdminUploadPdf/_ENERGY_STORAGE_SYSTEM_FOR_HEATING_AND_COOLING_APPLICATION_USING_PARAFFIN_WAX__ijariie10109.pdf" Also do an internet search for "phase change sheetrock". Interesting! I don't think I could meaningfully increase the heat output of this stove anymore. It's burning clean, and I use about half as much wood as I did before. Better wood, would help I guess, like oak...
@@doubleMinnovations I can agree that hard woods hold a lot more heat than pine. Most of my wood is Ash, Oak, Hickory, Osage Orange. Which is suppose to have the most heat when burned. Also, my wood has just about three to four percent moisture content. Really dry wood works best for sure. Nothing worse than trying to cook wet wood in the stove. Thanks
@@victoryfirst2878 While I don't have this set up, I can say mostly "yes" to both of those questions. I have a small pot that I melt wax in to make fire starters. The wax does have a smell, but unless you're using scented candles - it's not bad in my opinion. As long as you don't get it hot enough to smoke at which point it can catch fire. I got distracted once and had that happen (and then it really smells lol) but both of those things I am sure are mitigated by having a lid on the pot - which I do not have. My particular pot did not come with a lid. I also turned the heat way down (doing it on a regular electric stove), so as to avoid the fire hazard, it just takes longer to melt the wax. But that's waaayy better than burning down the house and/or filling it with smoke. 👍😁
1.Don't make the alteration until after the inspection or your stove plumbing will look like a Christmas tree of red tags. 2. Beware this will immediately void your warranty. 3.IF anything goes wrong and there's fire and or death your insurance company will tell you to go pound sand. 4. Install a good quality carbon monoxide detector.
Yeh thats what i was a bit worried about that het coming out of the top is he sure no carbon dioxide isnt coming out also if hes right good luck but its good to have other's opinion like yours becaUse we dont want someone dying thanx mate
Love the flue pipe heat recovery exchanger. I would think you may have a problem with creosote build up in the 8" outer pipe. You should look at insulation for 8" pipe - This will be safer too. Hot pipe low to floor.
Re your chimney mods, I can only say that is brilliant! Over 100° from your reclaimed heat tube! Why hasn’t a design company thought of this? Takes a man (or woman to keep it pc 😅) to think outside the box. Well done you. 👍
I connected a 12V-Vent with my equipment solar,put it right above the curve,and shurely i got quite the same effect without welding and buying pipes and other special stuff.Anyway,good spirit,effective realisation..greetings from my YOTUL 602N from Patagonia!
Very interesting, I like your chimney heat reclaimer. Question: where is the air intake for your firebox? Is it fed from inside the room or you bring air from the outside?
Hi Carlos; the air intake source for the fire, is from inside the room. It does put a little negative pressure in the room, but equalizes when doors are opened, and seeps through air cracks which provides enough air replacement. Thanks for commenting. 👍🏻
@@davidm9214 I do pile up firebricks around and on top of it. I took them off for the video, but mention and show them off to the side. The phase change of the wax is what I'm going for. -to melt it to a liquid. It takes many hours to do that, and most of the time it doesn't get all melted. What I'm doing, is as dangerous as making candles. It would become more dangerous if I tried to keep heating it up to its flash point, 392-480 °F. The concern is understandable. Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much! Now people all over the world are in difficult economic conditions.I believe that your amazing and simple invention can help a lot.I will try this scheme for my small house.May the Lord bless you!
1) Quite happy to see some well thought video about energy coming from US. 2) The camera ( the additional insulated one) doesn't seem long enough to burn CO and C. 3) Just saying that because I am unable to see the typical blue flame that comes out when it burn. But if you say so, I trust you 4) The non electric heat reclaimer, even if not designed by Gucci...., its working great 5) if you will see the wax starting to boil.. it can be substituted by benzoic acid that store 3 times the energy of a paraffin/was at 120 celsius and cost 2 euro / kg and will never boil at less than 250 C° 6) Go Vikings! and thanks for the video
This video shows temp readings. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4fzQSEiWpw8.html Never want to anything but melt the wax. Any high temps, and you could be in the world of hurt, if it reached the flash point. Thanks for watching!
A lot of times it seems like the buildings i see have insulation in stud bays but never have complete thermal breaks. No one expects a thermos without a screwed cap on it or ice chest with an open top to work but we expect our buildings to somehow work with the exact same design flaws. Your improvements are awesome
Just watched this and thought I should say what a clever bit of practical engineering and physics ...Loved it ..Thank you I had not thought of thermal mass heating...
This is a great setup. I put fire bricks on my stove to collect heat. You can add or reduce to whatever you need. I also put a big pot of water on the stove for humidity.
Uncle built house with fireplace, he put heavy 2in id tubing built into the hearth, curved around behind firebox and thru chimney back out into living area......sucked cold air in under fire blew hot air out over fire.......he also enclosed firebox but without enclosure it still worked
I think this is great if you have trees on your land Fire wood is expensive these days and what you did was reducing the heat loss and saves you on wood, great job , Thank you for sharing
I am skeptical about the use of ceramic fiber board in this application due to the health hazards associated with ceramic fiber insulation if and when removal is required. It can and does break down at higher temperatures. Recent studies have showen the fiber to devitrify and undergo cristobalite when exposed to elevated temperatures. Most ceramic fiberboard readily available for residential use is intended to reduce the clearance a stove can be placed away from a wall. Very interesting concept however. Your heat exchanger is very interesting. Very good demonstration of the thermal draft it creates. Thank you for sharing.
You’ve basically reinvented the Swedish or Russian stoves that are super efficient, and which were admired by Benjamin Franklin as using very little wood. I wish our stove makers offered ceramic one and metal ones.
I like the heat exchanger - and have a suggestion to improve it: Your thermosiphon effect leads to parallel flow of the rising flue gases, and the rising room air. But heat is exchanged best in 'counterflow', when the two media exchanging heat flow in opposite directions. So if you would install a fan at the top that is currently the warm air vent to force a downward flow in the inner tube you'd get even more heat from the flue gas into the room.
I like the stove pipe heat exchanger. That's a neat idea. One of the big improvement that people overlook is makeup air. If you control where your stove is pulling air from your house will feel much less drafty.
I saw the thumbnail pic and thought "oh, great, another stupid hillbilly build that's going to kill everyone in the house". Then I was pleasantly surprised by how ingenious the mods were. Awesome work, my good man.
Always do your chimney according to code. My stove was required by the insurance company to be installed by the dealer. Sweep my chimney out every year. Change the design good luck with insurance company. Should not use 90 use two 45 degree elbows for better draft
Dang - I can do two of these right quick. My burner is too small for the fire brick but thanks for the other tips. I knew I could make a “Rocket stove/after burner “ but I didn’t know how. Now, I do, thanks!
I'm a retired chemist and I made my own wood burner for practically nothing. When you insulate the inside of your stove, you literally FORCE more heat out the chimney lowering your efficiency. You want that heat to escape through the sides and top as quickly as possible when the stove reaches optimum temperature (not out the chimney). What I do is place a forced air blower near the side of mine and I heat a 3,000 sq-ft house to 75 degrees in the deepest, deadest, darkest cold of winter no matter how low the mercury gets! I love FREE heat!
If the fire in the stove was running well below optimum then insulating could have improved the combustion efficiency. You are correct that you want to extract the heat before it gets away to outdoors. His heat exchanger is likely not the best he could do on that but it looks somewhat reasonable. I think more surface area would help a lot but how to implement that easily doesn't come to me right now.
@@kensmith5694 My wood burner is cylindrical so my forced air blower directs air perpendicular to AND flows around the stove aerodynamically therefore removes the heat with high efficiency. I use no insulation inside the stove making heat transfer from combustion to metal VERY fast since steel is an excellent heat conductor. When the stove exterior reaches 600 degrees I turn on the blower within 25 minutes from lighting. I maintain temperature consistency by controlled venting so I'm able to load large amounts of dry-split logs. I can operate my wood burner for 3 hours before refueling. At bedtime I refuel to max and let it run all night-- nice 'n toasty in the morning. Hope this helps you out.
@@jskrug1 His burner is not your burner. I was suggesting that his burner may have been running at too low of a fire box temperature. A smoky fire would be the evidence for this.
I do stack up some firebricks on top. Still would like more thermo mass it there, but the weight gets to be so much. My masonry heater/fireplace in the house has plenty though. You could check out those videos if interested. Thanks.
An excellent video, seems to me you've captured the three most important factors. Using a rocket mass heater to begin with is possibly even more efficient, but for those of us who already have a conventional wood stove, your improvements will help get the most out of it. I do have one suggestion regarding the chimney heat exchanger: I think will be easier to build if you keep the chimney itself at 6" and surround it with the 8" pipe that's open at the bottom and top. This way there won't be a need for 6"-8" adapters, and no need to seal around the 6" pipe (where it exits the 8" pipe). However, this solution needs to be tested, as it may not be as efficient as yours, and since we only need to build it once, the added complexity and cost may be worth it in the long run. Thanks for taking the time to share your innovations with the rest of us :)
Since I have all of the required materials for this I'm going to try that one out I have the outer pipe already should be pretty easy if you ever thought of using one of those radiant oil heaters usually heated with electric was wondering if you used the same Principle as the hot water heaters or the percolator coffee pot to have the oil circulate rather than the water just an old broken electric one then putting a fan on it curious to see what you think
We used a wood stove insert when I was growing up. The firebox was surrounded by an outer iron shell. Air was pulled in underneath the front of the stove and circulated to the back, up the backside, then across the top of the stove, then exiting out the front of the stove. I have held matches in front of the vent and lit them in ~ 3 seconds from the heat being exhausted.
This is what I'm looking for. I have a similar wood stove. Whit that cold air return will be able to hook that up to a vent in my floor I put in. I have a boiler system so no docks. & yes my stove is in the basement. Still watching your video and see exactly how that chimney system is hooked up.
