I wish people who do gardening videos let viewers know (at least in the U.S. what temperate/zone their focus is in…someone in a tropical area wouldn’t be able to grow the same as those in a cold winter climate
I agree! Zones are so important to know. I’ve wasted so much time watching gardening channels only to find out their zone planting is very different from my own.
I live in central Florida. I can garden all year long. I take advantage of my oak tree canopies in the back yard to grow a variety of food. Thanks for posting this informative video. 👍
This just popped up in my suggested list. I have to say, all of your advice rings true to me. I already grow most of those in shady areas (except beans and peas). Summers here in Australia can be very hot with days over 100F so herbs, lettuce, etc. need shade to survive. I think our growing zone would be 9 ish FYI. Subbed btw. Cheers!
Generally yes for tuber production we need sun but there are big exceptions. Rhubarb for example will develop a huge and poisonous root even in a very shaded location as its huge leaves are well adapted to pull in the sunlight. Skirret does well in dappled shade, its roots just wont be as large. Solomons seal, wild ramp, daylilly also gradually over time grow tubers in dappled shade. Daylilly spreads much faster if its a freshly tilled bed with all grasses removed. Rhubarb is grumpy about poor soil and rocks but sun isnt a big factor. I've seen a large patch of rhubarb thrive in the middle of a thick raspberry patch. Some deep forest dwelling plants will slowly develop tubers, like Indian cucumber. Ferns are an example, and their rhizomes spread all over hill and dale, and can totally cover the forest floor. Fruit production is also possible in dappled shade (courrants and gooseberries) even without full sun.
You nailed it! BTW if that was my rock wall I would be espaliering grapes and or blackberries up the walls to 8 ft. I may have attached these personal notes before (But just incase I didn't) The info is not exhaustive as I finally removed all the plants that I wasn't interested in. With that said the plant list is at the bottom. enjoy! Growing food in the Shade There are areas around the house, porch, under trees and on decks that only get 2 to 4 hours of light and can still produce a fair amount of food. If you understand how to adjust the variables and expectations you can grow very successfully in these micro-climates. Soil needs in the shade: The evaporation of moisture is minimal so the variable you have to address is soil that is too moist and creates disease or root rot. If you add a little sand and/or perlite to the soil when digging in your transplants to optimize drainage and hill up any plant that is susceptible to root rot such as strawberries then you will have great success with very little effort. Water needs in the shade: Don’t water as often as your other plants that get more sun. If you don’t know if it’s time to water then sink your finger 3 inches into the soil near the plant to detect if there is moisture. If it is dry then water. Otherwise the plants will tell you if they aren’t getting enough water. Use drip or soaker methods to water because the leaves will stay moist for long periods of time and become susceptible to disease. Light needs in the shade: Try to plant the determinate tomatoes, potatoes and zucchini in the area that gets the most light in the shade garden and if there is an option try for placement in the afternoon sun. Plant your leafy greens in the darkest areas and give every plant that tends to bolt a spot in the morning sun and dense afternoon shade to keep them cool and bolt free for longer. Some gardeners paint walls white to reflect more sun. Others use mirrors in the garden. Some even create beautiful pools of water next to the shade garden to reflect light to the plants. Although these steps are helpful they’re not necessary in most cases. Temperature micro-climate: Typically you’ll have multiple micro-climates around your house and when you identify them it allows you to choose plants that will thrive or tolerate that space successfully. As I mentioned earlier shade creates a cooler, more consistently moist climate that allows leafy greens, brassicas and all other plants that bolt or get bitter due to heat, an ideal growing space for most of your growing season. Growing and spacing needs in shade gardens: It’s always best to start your seeds indoors to create the optimal growth for a couple of weeks before transplanting them in the shade garden. Harden them off and expect the growth to slow down as soon as they are planted in the shade. You may want to protect the seedlings with clear plastic cups for another 2 weeks because slugs love the shade and are more active in those areas. You want to give your seedlings a bit more space to soak up the sun. You don’t want to crowd them and further restrict photosynthesis. If you have a wall to train perennials they’ll benefit by being espelliared against the wall. That’s a fancy way of training them flat against the wall with spacing between branches making a fan shape is most common. Change of growth characteristics and harvest potential in the shade: Add 15 days to the original harvest date due to slower growth. For leafy greens such as cilantro, parsley, mint, spinach and basil the leaf structure becomes larger, thinner and more tender. The harvest is extended by at least a month if not longer. Brassicas have a larger leaf structure and are less bitter when grown in shade. Tomatoes, squash, potatoes and other heat loving plants will give a smaller harvest but worth the effort. Tips from the pros. Is soak seeds before planting, give them an optimal situation to germinate and when they’re growing strong harden them off and plant into the shaded area. If you’re not sure how much sun they might need, plant them in a container such as grow bags, pots or crates and move around the space until you find a good spot for that plant. This helps to learn that microclimate more quickly with less plant failure. Perennial fruit bearing bushes that are suited for shade are: Currants Grapes Raspberries Blackberries Strawberries Gooseberries Sour Cherry Paw Paw Tree Rhubarb Annual Veggies that thrive in shade are: Lettuce Spinach Kale Swiss Chard Broccoli Peas Radish Kohlrabi Arugula Sorrel Endive Celery Collards All forms of Brassicas Garlic Mustard Watercress Chervil? Annual Veggies that tolerate shade are: Green Onions Leeks Garlic Det. Tomato Egg Plant Artichoke Potatoes Squash (short season) Beets Bush Beans Jerusalem Artichoke Plantain Hyacinth bean Turnips Rutabagas Choy Shade Tolerant Tomato Varieties Black Cherry. Evans Purple Pear. Golden Sweet. Ildi (Yellow) Isis Candy Cherry. Juliet Hybrid (Red) Principe Borghese (Red) Vernissage Yellow. Herbs that Love (*) or Tolerate shade: *Basil *Mint *Cilantro *Parsley Anise Rosemary Sage Dill AND OF COURSE MUSHROOMS LOVE THE SHADE. Also as Huw Richards points out strategize to use shady areas to your advantage. Make compost bins in these non productive areas to produce nutrients for the productive areas. Gather and store rain water in the shade as it keeps the water cool and in good condition.
Good content, thank you. Half of my garden is full shade. I really had no control over that. Plus I’m not sure, but I think I had a soil problem. I’ve heavily amended those beds. So far the only success I’ve had in those beds are kale, spinach, lettuce, and peas. I keep trying though.
I'm constantly baffled. Without iptions, I grow tomatoes and squash in 4 to 5 hours of sun, and shady crops with 2. Yes, slower production, but also, healthier plants!
My garden is totally shaded by 2pm. I do get some dappled sun in the evening, but not much. My garden did excellent last year and it's doing great so far this year. Last year was my first garden in 20+ years.
This year is a bit different. My pepper plants are maybe 6-8 inches tall and already setting fruit. Should I break off flowers and let the plants get bigger, or should I just let the peppers do what they want?
@@StoneyAcresGardening i put out 6 jalapeno peppers and will let half do what they want and break any flowers or peppers off the other 3 and see what happens...I appreciate your time.
So glad you showed and shared about your shaded wall section. I have the same situation with our backyard fence and have been wondering what would work well there!
And what to do with spots that face north-west-ish…I have a spot that only gets sun after 1 or 2 pm.. Last season we grew potatoes there…they were huge!!..two pounds each and lots of those…sun sets at 9 pm in the north west Idaho area…still it is very strong sun and I worry about sunburn…any suggestions??? Thanks
unless you tell us where you are located your advice is questionable. growing in Texas is totally different from gardening in Michigan, California, or Maryland.
What about pumpkins honeydew and cantaloupe? I have elevated garden beds. The way I have them situated the areas under these elevated garden beds get around 4-5 1/2 hours of sun. I want to use all the space I have. Will honeydew, watermelon and cantaloupe Work under these beds since the leaves stretch out beyond the bottom of the elevated garden beds?
If the vines make it outside of the shade and can get 6 to 8 hours of sun then yes they would probably be okay. But it doesn't sound like ideal conditions for melons which like a lot of sun!
I believe it will go to bolt in full sun when it gets too hot. You could grow in early in the season and maybe late in the season when it’s more cool or add shade cloth to extend the season for the lettuce.
It depends on where you are, but in 6a, I grew lettuce all summer, but in the middle of May, I switched from regular lettuce to a variety called "Summer Crisp.""
