I've got two 300 blk uppers that I love and shoot lights out. Both are home builds using a kak 8” 1-5 twit and a Faxon 7.5” 1-5 twist. If you feel the need to try another barrel, I would highly recommend both.
@@Edwinthe7th Wow! 1:5! Do you just shoot sub's? Or can that be accurate with the lighter grain projectiles as well? 5R rifling? Cut, button, CHF'ed, or broach? I'm definitely interested... I've only gone down to 1:7. Thanks!
@@KrisSays I shoot 110-grain barnes ttsx bullets hunting, and subs at steal and paper both are sub moa. I hand load the rounds for both guns both the supers and subs. Both barrels are 5R, and Faxon barrels are button rifled I'm not sure how KAK cuts the riflings.
You’re back to where I started. Familiar territory is comforting. My entry into AR building and loading was a PSA upper in 300 Blackout. My favorite caliber for both shooting and loading, though I’ve branched out to a number of additional calibers. Happy to see you back to where I started with your channel.
I think that looking for videos on loading 300 BO is what introduced me to your channel. I have watched most of the videos that you have made since then. You have improved my reloading processes tremendously. Best reloading channel, period. Thanks!!!
thank you very much for making and posting this video. I have been buying components to build a 300BLK upper and load for it because I'd been of the understanding that it would be able to seamlessly switch between subs and supers. Thanks to your video, I now know that this is not a realistic expectation. Now I have to decide whether or not I want to keep it all or sell it...
Good timing. I'm still waiting on the ATF to approve my Wolfman I have in jail but I bought a 7.5 300 Blackout and plan to almost exclusively run reloaded subs through it. It will probably turn into my truck gun but we will see. Thanks for all the info Johnny.
I have the same BA 10.3" barrel, with the included gas block. Spikes t2 buffer. Never had a failure unless I was way too short on powder. Shoots supers and subs great and very accurate!
I'm running a Taccom buffer with the internal spring in my 300 blackout. It's very light making it cycle well on subs but adds enough cushion that supers don't cycle too hard.
Perfect timing; I built my first 300 Blackout upper yesterday. It is a 9" Ballistic Advantage barrel in an M4E1 upper. I think I am going to explicitly shoot subsonic.
Hey Roger. Have a good handful of Ars in both 223-556 and 762x39. Just finished my 8 inch 300 blackout build and after shooting it with my suppresor, it's all I want to shoot now within 100 yards. Big boy fun!
@@robertpagel8951 I have been trying a few different bullets looking for some less expensive options and so far for me the Steel Valley Castings 220gr bullets shoot the best out of the cheap stuff. Way better than the Berry's plated. It definitely makes me shoot it more.
On my 190gr Sub-X loads, I first measured Hornady's factory ammo, which is indeed 2.070, and puts the case mouth right in the middle of the cannelure. Hodgdon data suggests 2.050, which is right at the top of the cannelure. I tried both seating depths and found the 2.050 gives me better accuracy and more consistent velocity out of my 10.5" pistol. My loads are 9.0gr of H110 or 7.6 gr of Lil'Gun, 2.050, and CCI 450 primers. I prefer the H110 since it fills the case a little more, and Lil'Gun typically works best lightly compressed. Since H110 and W296 are the same powder, you might want to try it in your subs. I also use 110gr V-Max for my plinking loads since they're cheaper than most FMJs I can get. I also load them to 2.050 and use CCI 450 primers. 20.4gr of Lil'Gun works well for me, and I actually found a lighter 18.5gr charge of H110 was more consistent for me. For tuning 300 BLK ARs, I find slowing down the cyclic rate helps a lot with reliability, but do it first with the gas block rather than a heavier buffer. A carbine buffer is easier to move, and effectively gives your adjustable gas block a wider available range.
Tested some 190gr subs out of my 5.5" rattler tonight. For N120, the American reloader pulls are subsonic at 11.9gr while the sub-x run subsonic up to 12.2gr. Starline brass and CCI 450s with heavy crimp to reduce unburnt powder.
I was happy to hear you saw that the flat bottom bullets were a PITB. When I first started, I was using .223 60gr VMax and crushed a few cases during seating. I don't like them so I switched to Nosler BT 60gr because they had a boattail. I actively avoid flat based bullets now. 🙂
Love the 300BLK content! Just a heads up - you might consider hanging your steel target with the chain on the backside. This will make the target hang at a better angle to deflect splatter downwards. Let me know what you think.
I sometimes hit em with x54 and blow the bolts clean out. Probably hold better in back. It just knocks the nuts off and blazes through the chain. Wife gets mad at me
With rebuilding the gas block, I just had similar FTF issues with what should be normal settings. I used a borescope and found even though I had the block spaced on the barrel in spec, the port was just a hair off. I readjusted using the borescope and got function back.
1/5 twist 300 black barrels is where it is at for supers and subs . Got that honey badger barrel in one build that was a shitty PSA upper getting 1.5 inch groups of makers R-rex 220gr's
If you get an extra power buffer spring and an H2 buffer your problem will be solved. You just need to delay the extraction a fraction longer on the supers. It won't hurt the subs either. It just needs a little more dwell time.
Highly suggest a bootleg adjustable bcg. I use it to switch from subs to supers and vice versa I tuned for subs with the adjustment at full gas and then i use it at full bleed off with supers Functions flawlessly, even with my 6” pistol length gas barrel
Wow 300blk content for JRB . Thanks shannon! Got get my to work good. Had video july 4 of it runing had issue with buffer set up i got that fix need get it to rang. Those load shot weird. The cast load left lot carbon from unburt powder from lilgun where load around the book 14.7gr load. Load vmax 110 at 19.7 i had they cycle had pressure issues had 1 good rd one semi ok heading to over presure then had one that primmer was flat. Had seat kind long my one guy work lpad lot 300blk told me run bullet into land cause it over pressure? And maybe to munch crimp from rcbs dies?
remember my first sbr . learned a lot from it mostly on what to do in registering one ! lol . go as short as you can and register in all the calibers you can . never been a 300 blf fan myself but it does have lots of uses . did my first sbr in 5.56 with a 12 inch barrel . then put on a a2 stock , didn't like how wabbaly the collapsible stock was . 12 inch barrel was carbine length gas and with the a2 rifle buffer it was sweet to shoot ! and i got 1 moa out of it with most loads . wish i still had it . but needed the cash more at the time . sadly the sbrs i got now are 1 1/2 to 2 moa guns . thinking on building a 9x39 sbr supposed to beat the 300 blk . be easy to make brass for , just neck up 7.62x39 cases . keep up the good work shannon !
I guess there's nothing new to say about 300 Blk. Once you get a load, just stick with it. Johnnie was my go-to for 300 Blk loading and I'm in a rut that works now. Super and subs.
**Right now I'm making my AR 300 blackout cycle with only 8.0 grains of powder and 150 grain bullets with pretty quiet results!!! you just have to know your guns, powders and bullets !!! and I only been doing this for about 2 to 3 weeks Max and i already pretty much seen it all and these guys that have been doing it for years I noticed that they only work with 190, 200, 220 Grn bullets and above and with pretty much the same results!!!🙄🙄
Love the videos and learned alot. Im up in michigan and load alot of straight wall cartridges for limited rifle. Any tips/tricks i should know for those types of cases?
Loose primer pockets is what ends the life of my 300 blk brass. I check them with a universal decapping die to see if i can push the primer out by hand. If i can, i tighten the pocket back up using a rcbs LARGE primer pocket swager and put that brass in a lost brass bin with a sharpie mark on it. That brass is reserved as hunting brass, or any other situation where picking it back up isnt going to happen. Anyways, nothing else seems to kill my brass. I think the powders we use are sort of fast for rifles at that pressure.
I reload steel case x39 I drill the primer hole from inside the case with a long bit and peen the primer hole so a large primer grabs . Sorta like a military crimp but very crude. I’ve experimented and my nasty primer holes seem to shoot as well as good brass case! Anyway I’m just sharing. But I like reloading 556 better just seems easier. Also My cast bullets shoot very accurate at sub speed but all over at super. This is in a ak
Hey Johnny. I have been a big fan of your 300 blackout videos. Is there any chance you can do a video or series on Ramshot Enforcer/AA#4100 with 110vmax and other supers similar to the series you did about CFEBlk? It has been a great powder for me so far for 2 different projectiles but I don't think many other people use it outside of magnum pistol reloaders. Would love to see some data for 300 blackout and maybe get other 300 blackout users to see the utility. Thank!
I've been having similar feeding problems with some 150 gr Barry's 30-30 bullets in the 300 blackout. I had them loaded a bit shorter than 2.000". I am trying to load them a bit longer around 2.100" to see if that helps, but have not shot them yet. I have read that to feed reliably 2.065" minimum is recommended.
The only actual 3030 bullet I can get to cycling flawless is the Barnes 150 TSX most of the actual 3030 bullet have to much of a round nose for the feed ramps
300 Cosby subsonic is why I got into reloading. Even before the Plan-Demic you could reload for at least 35 percent cheaper. I am genuinely curious though, why not load with a progressive? Do you enjoy reloading as much as shooting? For me reloading on the fun scale is a 4/10 and shooting is 8/10. I do it to not get taxed.
Question what magazine are you running? I worked on six different blackouts this past year with feed issues. The first one I spent a week on after someone else had. All running the original 223 magazines. After a little research I found I found that Lancer makes a 300 Blackout magazine problem solved on all six
Perfect time cooking up Some 230gr from some LEE molds tonight. Love to see the load results, especially since I've been hunting for those Federal Match Primers for a long time. Additionally, How efficiently it burns W296. GOOD STUFF!! 👏
I need to ask my self the same thing!, haven’t touch my reloading bench in 8 months because I can’t buy primers, they had a 100 primers for 13, at the gun range shop but I felt rip off paying that much!!!
Hi guys, I was looking at some info that suggested using a Boron Nitride spray on bullets or a powder for the same purpose. It makes sense that this might reduce friction and increase velocity, but I would love to see Johnny try it and give us his results.
Nice to see the 300 blk sbr back in action! I was wondering though, are you not worrying about a crimp on these loads or just not mentioning it on the bench?
have you seen the faxon 7.5" 300blk barrel? comes in 1:5 twist... its budget friendly. worth looking at and testing subs and supers reloads. would be interesting to see how it does and how much you can do with a barrel with the proper twist rate for 300blk rounds.
Hey Johnny any issues with your newer hand primer-I’m considering to pick one up. BTW awesome channel and now I’m a newbie reloader ! Thanks my friend.
Any more 6 ARC videos coming up? Wanting to start reloading this cartridge and looking for temp stable powders. Looking at AR Comp but can't find any load data on it
When the primer pockets are expanded too big, you have fired a magnum primer. Match primers are magnum primers and will expand the primer pocket beyond specs. You will also find the base of the brass is also larger than specs.
Could this possibly cause a case to completely blow out the base? I had one blow out the rear and killed my bolt and upper and blew the mag out the bottom
@@Cody-ew5zw Most of the time a blow out occurs when the brass has been reloaded until the wall thickness is below specs. I had this happen on a 270 Win. Back then I didn't anneal my brass often enough and I didn't check the wall thickness. Mag primers will cause the base of the brass to expand to the point the bolt won't work, the base can shear off, and bolt damage can occur. The fun is figuring out how to extract the brass that is left in the chamber.
I’ve recently started handloading 220 gr Sierra RN subs for my 300 BLK pistol. Following the Sierra data for H110, every round was supersonic. 😡 I found other reloading data and verified with QuickLoad. I finally got the rounds to be subsonic but the standard deviation is over 40. I tried different powder and seating depths but so far the cause of the velocity spread eludes me. I was surprised to see that you had a fairly large velocity spread as well. Any clue why that’s happening? I’m running a suppressed 10.5” barrel. It shoots factory subsonic ammo like a dream, with very consistent velocities. It’s very fond of the Hornady 190 gr SubX ammo, but that stuff is no where to be found.
I think it’s the case volume. It’s a pistol powder in a bigger case so I assume it doesn’t burn as well with the lower pressure. Not much u can do Maby crimp but it’s a slow heavy bullet and you’ll not shoot em far so probably not a big deal
Now that your upper is back together, start investigating IMR 4198 150 gr subsonics. Check out latest speer data. Mine are cycling in a 10.5" I think you might see some results.
