This series of videos has caused me to feel the most satisfaction I've ever felt from a diy. I plan to upload my own using the most cavemanesque terms possible. Thank you so friggin much.
Thanks I think. Maybe a backhanded compliment tho. If you want the best vocabulary for what's happening probably should watch an engineering video but most are in Hindi so good luck
I used the plans from online that sbranch made a video showing a build series of. Looks like your subscribed to him so I'm assuming you've seen the. Too. In his vid discrimination is the prints for these and what to scale them to
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 That being said and I can appriciate you giving him the credit on his videos how to make the converter. you had already headed in the right direction of having the 3 PH converter only run when you need the 3 Ph. I suffer from early dementia and have a hard time remembering to turn stuff off. I am going to try to add just a twist to my 3 PH converter to when the button to Mill or Lathe, to delay with a second timer so that when the first timer that you used turns on your secod C340C to put my full power out to my machines, then after that the second timer would turn on the Machine. I will use a normally closed Estop to turn machine off and a push button to activate the first timer. That way each machine will have the Estop in the stop position at all times until I need to work that machine. If power goes out I would still have to hit the start button to activate the converter. Again thank you You said in you second video that you used 6 AWG copper wire inside the box but what size wire did you use for your copastors. Just wondering. Thanks and Marry Christmas.
you got a schematic for your converter, would be very helpful to have and follow your video with. Learning as I go. Keep up the good work. You are very knowledgable as I can tell from your videos. Always nice to learn from someone like you.
I followed the schematic this guy used. And went into great detail explaining everything. I then made modifications to the start cap circuit and used a timer. I had similar issue with potential relay he did.
For your Start Capacitors. You just use the contactor to disconnect them? I have an issue with my 15hp RPC, the contactor doesn’t reliably disconnect the start caps. Do you have anything else in that circuit to interrupt the circuit?
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 interesting, tried a 40a and a 60a with same results. Using two 335uF start caps, one per pole on the contactor. It’s really annoying. I’m actuating the contactor with a push button switch instead of a timer.
@@TurboStreetCar that's not much start caps for that kind of problem. What brand contactor. I'm putting 300 amps through a 40 amp contactor and never had that issue
To drain the start caps. They will hold a 300+ volt charge for weeks and bite u. The run caps get drained by the motor windings cause they are always connected to the pony motor.
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 Thanks! Now that I'm thinking on it that was kinda a dumb question lol. I've had a 30hp RFC converter on my to do list for about a year now and it keeps getting pushed back with other projects, it's motivating to check your build out. I've made it partway threw your part 3 video, how did you decide what time to set your timer relay to cut out the start caps?
@@Ragnar.Lothbrok.3.14 trial and error. If you have a lot of caps u need less time. Mine is a 3600 rpm motor so it also takes a little longer to start up. But basically 0-1 second time works for most applications. So if the start caps stay in too long the motor growels. Just keep shortening the time till it does not growl. Too short and the motor may not fully start and you'll hear that too. Motor is louder when not at rated RPM but not a growl. It's very distinct. No mistaking it. If it's not at least at 70% rated RPM when the start caps come out you can hear the RPM start to drop. That's when u need to shut it off quickly. Within 3-5 seconds. Or the motor starts to heat up quickly. I would always wait a few mins before start ups. Because the motor has not yet developed it's induction magnetic field yet the windings literally turn into resistive heaters. You won't mess it up I'm sure. It's not an exact science. Should only take a few tries till u get it
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 What I have is a Southern Converters 30HP RPC. The issue is my house and wiring is from the 1990's. Has 1/0 aluminum wire coming in, so I can only guess I have about 125A of input service. It's enough juice for a converter that is already running, but the locked rotor amperage on my idler motor is 217A @ 460V, single phase. But since I'll be wiring it for 230V single phase, it means it will hypothetically pull twice as much amperage, and I don't know if the transformer that supplies my house will handle that. Would you know how to wire up a pony motor so it can get the big motor going before I hit the "on" button?
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 Wait, pony is not the actual 3ph idle motor correct? I thought that the term "pony motor" was an auxiliary motor that helps start the main 3ph motor? If so, then I don't have one. I only have the main 3ph idler motor from the phase converter package. It is an 1800 RPM made by North American Electric Motors PC-286T-30-4
@@zod-engineering-welding my barn is wired from the pole with #2 aluminum and it handles the inrush. I installed the 200 amp service and just connected the 4/0 aluminum to the #2 aluminum with parallel clamps, hopping it would melt and then the utility company would have to pay for the upgrade 😁. But so far no luck. My wife says she can only see a minor flicker in the house lights. It's on the same transformer but different feed. My barn is 300' from my house so they put it on its own meter. But the utility company if they actually knew I was starting a 30hp pony would probably want me to pay for a bigger transformer. U can always add more start caps to get the inrush down too. And the inrush will last less time. My pony is 3600 rpm so it takes longer to start but still only takes 0.5 seconds to get to speed. I have a good amount of start caps tho
@@johnwilliams2702 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3GLraA7CznY.html Start up is about 320 amps. But my motor is a 3600 rpm idle motor. An 1800 rpm motor should pull less start up current. When there is a load of 2hp and up the system becomes about 80% efficient. But when the system has no load you paying to spin a motor that's just sitting on the floor
