We used a pressure tank, submersible pump and lots of little parts. Support.projectkamp.com do it Or Hangout in our online community. also cool / discord
Please get some pvc conduit schedule 40 for the electric wiring, you guys are going to want to make sure nothing can happen to those wires as they are underground, especially with those cars running over them on the patch of dirt road also rodents love electric wires for some reason... Or else it's just an accident waiting to happen, you don't want to get electrocuted through your water supply, trust me.
Great update and congratulations on your critical infrastructure upgrade! like @Lalaland, I am more than a little concerned with how durable those flexible pipes are in the long term being exposed to the elements as they are (if they were surrounded by concrete it would be a different story). Personally I'd replace them with rigid schedule 40 PVC pipes & bury them at least a foot underground to mitigate against the severe temperature drops during winter (specially under the road where road vibrations could crack your flexible pipe over time as it is heated & cooled).
Hi there just to let you know you will be better off with 2 'no return' valves ! one in front of your pressure tank and one just above your pump ! This will prevent any loss of water or pressure in the pipes.
Hi great work on getting water to the camp. Re crossing any road with water and or electrical. Its a big mistake to direct bury the lines. Traffic from the road will compact directly into both the water line and the electrical wire, and within a very short period of time they'll both break down. Plus if you need to replace them or do any maintenance, you'll be digging up the road surface again. You should have placed a culvert pipe of twice the size that you need, and with thick enough wall material to handle the constant vehicle traffic, and it should be at a specific depth (local building code will advise on that parameter). The water line and electrical cable get pulled through that, and really the electrical line should be within a small pipe to separate it from the water. Thus is anything fails. you simply dig up either side of the road (not the road itself, and pull in a replacement line/cable. I hope that helps, D
✌️Also they compromised the compaction of the road which was good, so when it rains that will be a weak spot, but I’m sure they will rectify all this in time, I’m still mightily impressed with them all👍🏼 🌅
I'd say for what they're doing, a 150 mm orange waste pipe should be more than plenty, 110 might be enough. Still wise to bed it in sand to avoid having any sharp bits puncture or deform it. Proper underground cable tubing is cheap and makes replacing the cable a breeze if necessary, so I'd be tempted to bury a 110 mm pipe for the water line and a 50 mm one for the cable. Going 600 mm deep is probably a good idea, although most places I know seem to require 800 under any surface vehicles drive on (i.e. including home driveways).
I mean, i'm more worried about those lines failing during winter freeze which I find to be the more pressing issue than road compaction given that that road probably see's minimal traffic
I was about to point out the same, although in much much much much less detail :D here in Aus the building code mandates 600mm depth for buried cable and pipes. Basically a deep trench with washed gravel on the bottom and top of pipe/cable culvert.
Hi. I get my water from a well as well, and would like to recommend a couple of things: 1. Don't get your water from near the bottom of the well (I know it looks like you have more water), because you will be sucking up sand and silt from the bottom of the well. Our pump pulls water from 75-100cm from the bottom and the water is a lot clearer. 2. Do a multi-step filtration system. We have a water filter (string wound element) after the check valve, before the other elements of the system. That prevents fine sand getting into the rest of the system and reducing the life of the components. This should be checked the most often. If not used, in time fine sand will build up and can clog the pressure switch. 3. If you use the water in house I highly recommend a water pressure regulator (it levels out out the differences in pressure between when the pump is on and when it's off ). 4. For hot water in the summer we use a coil of black PEHD plastic pipe (or hose) thrown on a sunny roof (it gets HOT during the day). We use it for our outdoor shower.
It would make more sense to have a filter before your tank (prevent contamination of the tank/debris collection). But you could also put a rough filter for this closer to your pump/above the well. That way you would prevent a lot of clogging (also if you ever get a clog/blockage check the filters, and if not the filters then check the flowmeter!)
Agree. I use the water tower system and I put the filter after the pump, before it reach the tower. The water tower have the clean water and it will not reduce the gravity pressure which is crucial for me. Better to use the pump for pushing the water through the tank instead of using the natural tank pressure
Typically you put filters after the pressure tank so you don't work your pump as hard. If your water is dirty enough that it's filling your tank with with sediment I'd just build a way into the system that would let you flush the tank every once in a while.
If you have winter weather in your part of the county you will need to do more digging for the water pipeline. Should be deeper in case of freezing. Also the section under the road should have a metal pipe or something similar to protect it. Over time cars passing over will compress it.
Also leaving it shallow the water will heat up from the sun, so Luke warm water instead of cold, and potential for bacterial growth, but they have made a great start.
Wear cotton gloves when using garden tools. Get a pickaxe for that soil. I would rather first filter before the pressure tank, so the tank wouldn't get fouled, if it was for drinking, but I'd filter it a second time for that.
Living in Australia the appreciation of having water is under rated. Good job my man, small steps and you're building this amazing groundwork for a new style of living
With a shallow dug well like that one you must constantly be concerned about contamination of the well from rain water, your activities in the area, (livestock) and any bug or animal that can get into the well. Grade and slope of the landscaping must be maintained so overland water cannot enter the well. Also, I would recommend a sand screen immediately after the check valve. It will save replacements on those tiny filters. Sooner or later you will install the 20" versions of the filters. I would also install a UV disinfection lamp on the system. There are some that work on demand and do not have a continuous electrical drain. If the water is not sweet sometimes a charcoal filter element can work miracles. I noticed a float switch on the submersible pump but you did not mention it. On a dug well it is crucial that this switch is working and that the pump is deep enough for the well water to cool the pump but high enough off the bottom to minimize the disturbance of the bottom of the well. The float switch needs to shut off the pump well before the water level is below the TOP of the pump. Most systems have an audible and visible alarm that is triggered when the float switch cuts out the pump. This is important to know as it is how you will tell if you are over pumping the well. Perhaps you did not know but one of the reasons for the water towers was to compensate for low refill rates of certain aquifers. If the refill rate was low a pump was slowed down and run continuously to fill the water tower so things like having a shower would not drop the level of water in the well. Be very grateful that your system does not have to work at -30C.
What a cool video! Please do yourself a favor and never ever ever ever use the plunge saw while holding down the Guiding Rail behind the saw. If you get - for some reason - kickback, the saw will jump back and cut off your fingers. You're already doing yourself a big favor by not standing behind it, but having any body parts you want to keep attached to yourself behind the saw is just a very very bad idea. Clamps for holding the rail down are a bit expensive (at the end, it's Festool...), but your health is worth it ;) Keep on with the project, it's awesome :)
along with everyone else giving advice, it's pretty important to use colour coded conduit when laying multiple runs of pipes, that way you can tell if you're about to cut open your water line or electrical run, or both. I think the standard is Orange for electric but it could be different in your area
My grandfather and my father worked at a company that dug bore-holes for water. And install all the components you used on this video, for many many years. Thousands and thousands of water-wells (bore-hole) for more than 30years. And I used to help as teenager and saw how they did it. 2 tips for you: 1:That is NOT, and I mean NOT!!! the type of pipes used. Always use HDPE pipe. HDPE pipe from the pump to the well cover > Check valve -> 90degree bend -> HDPE pipe to the tank. (check valve at the well cover stops the water on the pipes from flowing back to the well. water weight inside the pipes counts). 2:Get a metal tube to pass through the road, as others said, or it will be crushed. Also get a smaller HDPE pipe for the pump cables. Great video! Loved the detailed how-to :) hope it helps.~ EDIT: I just noticed the camp is very close to my hometown, like less than 50km. I'll gladly help on that matter if you want. Cheers!
Amazing, thank you for all your sacrifices you made to get here. The camp is beginning to be a very livable place. Looking forward to visit you at some point.
You should protect the pipe in the road crossing. Insert it onto a steel, hard PVC or concrete pipe jus to make sure a heavy truck/tractor won't smash it. And what about sewage??? where is this wastewater going to?
The land is dry, grey water from the sink and laundry can be used on trees or wherever. I would hope they use a hose out the back of the kitchen pod's drain to move around where it's needed.
Separate trenches for clean water and waste water ;) The outdoor tap is deff a great idea, i was gunna suggest after watching the video but you got it anyways. A table for washing off things under it would be an idea. Id also suggest some paving or a timber platform under where the shower is, so theres not a muddy mess there too.
with such a great natural water source, you should definitely make a small IOT controlled hydroponics system. hydroponics is one of the perhaps most sustainable and effective ways of growing vegetables and greens, and using the right combo of microcontrollers and sensors it would only add about 25 watts of additional load to your power source.
Hi guys, you don't want to water plants under a heavy sun : first most of the water evaporates, second water drops acts as a lens which can potentially damage fragile leaves. The best time to water plants is dusk : reduced evaporation, no direct sunlight burning, water have the whole night to soak into the soil. Oyas can be a great help to slowly water the garden during summertime. Oyas are very popular in South Mediterranean and dry climates. There's a bunch of DIY videos all over the net. Here I have an eolian peristaltic pump (low tech, no energy) which pumps slowly the water on a water thank which is 3m higher than the house : free pressurised water. 😁 Keep on rocking guys. 😉
Love following.. Your a orsum man of all trades, well explained with all your projects and like how you #tagged all your videos.. probably one of the best off grid I've watched.. ✌️💜 From New Zealand
A tip for digging in that soil. Soak it well the night before. In the morning, it should be much softer. Also, a pickaxe might be helpful to have for digging. Also, the garden center may have a durable brass outdoor shower spout (err... sprinkler).
I love that you guys can figure these plumbing issues out. The many years I’ve had in plumbing have taught me a lot about all kinds of plumbing parts. I will use the Braided Stainless Steel water lines in the 3/8” variety and smaller for faucets and dishwashers and fridge/Icemakers. But anything larger, I’m not a fan of. The 3/4” size made for water heaters never seem to last as long as the faucet variety. I have just seen to many of them fail right where the compressed hose is connected to the end fittings. This probably do to the higher water pressure in cities and as such my not cause you any problems. I hope this is helpful in your endeavors.
Brilliant! You're really good at getting stuff done. It might be a good idea to secure the pump in the well so than it doesn't 'disappear'. Happy washing!
Good fortune on your project. I wish we had had started our adventure when we were younger and fitter, You are further North than us. We are in the SW Alentejo near the Ocean.
I have come across this mans video, and wanted to share this type of system with you. This is a shallow well system called," A Sandpoint". You maybe can go as deep as 20' feet or so, to get at the water. With this one, you would a hand pump. I'm glad that I saw it again so soon, so that I could send it to you, for a study item. Already you have found a solution to your water needs. Jeff B.
Excellent work 🤗👍 You are going to need a much larger filter system, preferably prior to the pressure tank. The filter size you have chosen is normally used in a single kitchen situation. Your enthusiasm is inspirational ☺
Can only imagine how awesome it is to have running water FINALLY. Hehe heh, the girlie loves it she can wash clothes. Girls love clean clothes for some reason. Looking forward to more. How the water tests go n such. Can you really drink the stuff? I guess if the neighbors do but you never know. The outdoor shower head might need some work, but the idea is beautiful.
Congratulations on getting water! This huge. I appreciate all the steps it took to hook up the water. I know you simply wanted to get it done but I was concerned when I saw how shallow you put the pipe under the road. I see in the comments some great ideas to improve it and I know you already have a lot on your plate so please consider upgrading now before winter or the rains. I would hate to see you have to do repairs at the most inconvenient time. You should be proud of what you've already accomplished! Keep up the great work.
Wow you guys have made a real project for yourself. It is a great learning experience. The only thing stopping me from doing something like this is finance. I am sure that you must have a budget of at least €100k to be able to embark on this. Long term it will pay you back in many ways
Hello and thank you for video! You're great handyman!) I just want to say about my experience of using plastic filter. After 1 year of using it burst because of pressure and after that I installed metal filter.
I used my solar powered submersible pump to bring water up to irrigate the trees (hot here in the Algarve) then I fitted stainless steel pipes and compression joints to connect my esquentador then I sat down to watch your vid!
Better to have a filter prior to the check valve, the dirt can get stuck and you will have back flow problems. Second, different types of metal pipes can not touch each other! It will create rust.
Just an observation point but you guys are looking really vibrant and super healthy!! Maybe lots of sunshine (Vit D) or eating great home grown food, or both, but whatevs ya doin, keep it up!
Super cool build a few things to keep in mind : 1- Isolation: pipes and full system will freeze causing damage during the winter 2- Drinkability: the PVC pipe is definitly not suitable for drinking water :/ 3- Cross road technical pipe: I will definitly dig again accross the road and putt a concreate tube to make a passage for all the stuff. If one tube need to be replaced (PVC pipe :) ) just take it off and replace it. But well done ;)
Congratulations! The simple pleasures in life :) As a thought for the future and possibility of you expanding your water system, you mentioned water towers/ gravity feed systems. Im not sure how heavily you use your batteries but it would be a fairly easy thing to set up your over flow power (the extra energy you cant use when your batteries are full) to power the pump to fill up a large reservoir tank giving you a large gravity fed water system only utilising power you would not be using otherwise effectively increasing your battery bank size in the process. This is done in houses with pv systems by dumping the extra power into heating hot water for the house so should be easy to find info on this kind of thing.
I have a tower ( made of concrete blocks..) 4 metres high with a fiberglass tank of 500 liters on top of it...next to the well ...and the motor to feed the tank it's only a 750 watts triphasic...500 liters of water lasts for 2 days....so the motor only works every two days...and it take 5 minutes to fill the tank...my electricity bill for that motor is around 1 euro a month.....😏
interesting that you are using stainless steel for your plumbing most of our lines are either copper or PEX pipe. That digging was brutal, at least you do not have to dig below a frost line. In most parts of Canada we need to dig down 4 feet.
You need an air bleed valve. I think you are pumping air for the first few seconds when the pump turns on. Also add a thick culvert pipe under the road. Ideally you would run PVC pipe all the way to the pump and put the water and electrical pipes inside that. Your water system will wear out really quickly otherwise.
Are you going to re-seal the well lid? There are big gaps around it when it looked like cement was used to seal it up properly before it was opened. You'll end up with a lot of dead animals and insects if nothing is done. When the well pump kicked in, did it blow air or was that just the pump pressure causing it to pulse? That might indicate you have an air leak in the line between the pump and tank
You did well getting all that done. It is usually better to install a UV filter into the system if you intend to use it for drinking water, as, it kills bacteria and microbes that can get into water. It may also be a good idea to fix down the well lid so animals cant move it and poop in the well, also, fix another check valve on the well lid, so, if you get a leak above ground it doesn't drain back to the pump and contaminate the well.
Love your videos man ! .....I advice you install one of those black plastic pvc pipes on the building (under try to add a reflexive sheet of metal or something for extra heat, you will have hot watter in a few minutes in a sunny day , In my country (Romania) rural folks even install a black barrel on their house for free good temperature water :D ...... this is for those who (in need or fun) they live off grid ! :D .....very efficient in sunny dayz
I have lived in the country for 40 years and have a well. Because we have some large water use (60 acre property) I put in several additional larger pressure tanks (you just T them off a longer pipe run). We have a total of over 400 gallon capacity in four tanks. Once we did that the pump may only kick on once a day during normal use, more frequently of course when watering etc. But since you are on solar that could help you shift power usage to times when you have excess power during the day. The comments saying to put the filters before the tanks are not really needed. The tanks do not become "fouled" unless the water is really to dirty to be using for drinking. Many people operate with no filters at all.
Awesome job of all...no, another awesome job again. She is a very happy woman you have there😂😂, and the plants are happy too. I think a RAIN SHOWER HEAD IS THE BEST! What do you think? So happy for you, smarty pants 😂👍❤
Hi. I have seen your video i have some recommendations. I am from Portugal. I need to say that i have experience and work on water lines for living. 1: So, normally the full pipe from pump to pressure tank have same pressure that system. We use a black tube with blue stripes where, supports 8 Bar. The accessories parts are all in plastic and easy to connect. And it's very more resistant to compression by traffic above. But should have concrete pipes to cross road our protect pipes with sand when underground ( best and cheaper way). 2: in exit of the pump must have a non return Valve that the system and pipe don't lost pressure, so the pump works less. 3: you could have another in water house before pressure switch but isn't mandatory. 4: your "filters" must have a filter element for filter water properly. Where it is? I recommend cotton + coal filter and a sand filter our micro screen filter. 5: Portugal gets really cold in winter a d that expose pipes, stainless steel pipes and brass connection it's receipt for disaster when you don't expect. Work in protect the water house and pipes connection to house. Keep the good work.
That sewage line coming out should have its own channel completely separate from the water line. In case of mishaps, you don't want your clean water to get contaminated.
