On the 2-piece seal (in the interest of preventing rear main leaks), I highly recommend "clocking" the mating surface of the two main seal halves- i.e. 8 and 2 o'clock instead of inline with the same mating surface of the oil pan. An old school racer taught me that some 30+ years ago, and it has never let me down.
The center bolt valve cover one piece engines are just as buildable. You are 100% correct! The only thing I seen you forgot to mention is some of the newer blocks are sealed-off where you would normally bolt on a manual fuel pump.
I'm a boater and have built a 383 from a 350. The main differences are that the boat engine is always under load so the ring clearances and piston side clearances are like a truck engine. And boat cams need to be designed to prohibit reversion. Quick explaination of why reversion is bad in boats... When the exhaust valve is still open as the intake stroke begins, there is a bit of overlap when both valves are open. During idle some exhaust can get pulled back into the combustion chamber. This is no big deal with non boat engines. They can use a big cam and get more power with cool noises. But boat engines use water cooled exhaust. The water is added to the exhaust after it exits the heads and goes up through a casting, then turns downward and to the rear. During lower rpm this reversion pulse in the exhaust can pull water into the engine if the cam isn't right.
I was working at a GM dealer shop in the early to mid 1980s and 2 piece Chevy rear main seals were never a big problem. I remember replacing a few, I guess, but not very often. One piece seals are a little more tolerant of a worn rear main bearing before leaking maybe. Worn main bearings and rear main seal leaks go hand in hand. Bad PCV valves, too.
I think that's because most folks in the early 80's more or less expected their cars to leak oil. Oil seepage on the driveway and in the garage was commonplace back then. The mentality of the consumer was not to return the car to the dealer for slow oil drips.
The quality of American cars in general was abysmal during those years, but we made a lot of money back then adjusted for inflation because the cars sucked so badly and needed repairs so often. Air conditioner / HVAC repairs on GM vehicles alone put a lot of dollars in our pockets back then on the old R12 systems.
I have an 84 k10 Chevy just bought..leaks everywhere ..pan ,valve covers, probably rear seal,. A little blow by..pcv valve was not even sticking in the valve cover.. I'm looking at replacing all the gaskets , plus doing a catch can..what do you think?
Dan M mine has a single screw volvo penta set up. Just has a single prop. But I get what your saying about dipstick. Thats how I change the oil is by pumping it out from the dipstick tube. Thanks for your input though I appreciate it!
@@savageshooter2248 Like he said, you don’t have to drop or lift the crankshaft. Once the cap is removed, you can tap the seal halve around and pull it out. The other halve on the cap of course is easily swapped. I personally prefer a 2pc. I’ve recently built two SBCs and sourced 0010 blocks with 2pc seals. It’s my preference for my personal trucks. The seal shouldn’t leak. But if it ever does, it’s relatively easy to replace it. No need to pull a transmission (and transfer case if 4wd) out!
for alittle tid bit of info. port is left, both 4 letters, also port wine is red so the port running light is red. the right side is starboard, green light. in the very old days the steering board or rudder was mounted on the starboard side. the right side was originally called the steer board side and sometime it was changed to starboard. so when you were entering "port" you brought the port side to the dock. if you docked on the starboard side you haD A GOOD chance of hitting the rudder.
I don’t know if you read comments. But your video helped me out a lot!!! I blindly bought a Chevy 350 and 400th tranny from a project car guy. It was missing the torque converter and flex plate. I was lost alon trying to figure out which engine I had
I have changed the rear main seal, and inserts without taking the crank out on the older engine. Not a big deal but when you are doing this shade tree without engine/trans hoists etc.
I've never had a two piece that didn't outlast the engine. I have had one piece ones fail... Just like the new unit wheel bearings. Never had an old spindje hearing or old axle bearing fail and the new unit bearings go out all the time. Progress sucks sometimes
Good video. I am in the middle of a build using a 1993 350 in a 1983 Chevy 4X4. There were two notable differences other than the rear main. The 4 center intake bolts are at a different angle so you can't use an older intake I bought an edelbrock 3706 performer to switch back to 83 emissions using a carb instead of the injection. Also there is no ports drilled through the engine block to receive a fuel pump but if you need they sell jigs for doing it. I like the bolts in the intake better because they come out easier and I don't mind using an electric pump as those mechanicals were a bit of a pain to get to. No more greasing the rod! ;^D
One thing you halto understand is it takes allot more torque and power to move a boat than it does something on 4 wheels also this boat is on the larger side the amount of power it takes to increase the speed of a boat on the water is staggering compared to a car so this boat can pull it;s own weight and two skiers at around 20 MPH it can pull 1 skier at 28 MPG with no skier it can do around 35 to 40 MPH with 100 extra HP we can add 10 to 12 MPH to all of those speeds that's all 100 HP gets you on the water water has a huge amount of resistance and it takes a ton of power to overcome it keep in mind this is a large boat that does not normally get used for skiers the engines themselves are very different from car engines clearances and internal parts wise they also rotate in opposite directions from one another this is done with reverse rotation camshaft,distributor and starter motor. There is allot of things that are kind of tricky with this marine stuff fortunately for me I have a buddy who builds crazy high HP marine engines and he has educated me about all of this over the years
I was thinking the same . I have a 5.0 Volvo Penta and it pulls three people on a large tube and will go fast enough to administer free lake water enimas for all.
Yea I was thinking same thing. These motors are either super weak or these people are very big. Our Nautiques in ski shows would pull up 4 or 5 people on skies. Of course it takes a tad longer but it’s done all the time. Not a big deal
Dont forget in marine applications one motor spins clockwise the other spins counterclockwise my brother worked on boat engines for awhile..I thought he was full of it..
Thanks for your time to explain these main seal differences. Was kinda confused because the motor i'm putting in my S-10 is from a 1985 monte carlo SS. I know it won't be a race truck but better than a 2.8 V6. P.S. I subscribed.
What is the difference between a "marine" engine and an automotive engine...I am a boat owner and my boat has a a chevy 350 265 hp single engine or "single screw"...but I wondered is there a difference in the block or is it that they are just set up differently as far as the cooling and manifolds...I know your a hot rod guy and not a boater and thats cool...but I wonder why when you go to buy a 350 chevy motor they specify "marine" engine for a boat (by the way they charge for that moniker) or is it that they just say that to beat you up at the marine mechanics shops...just wondered.
So I'm working on a 383 stroker for a friend. The dipstick is on the passenger side. I pulled the oil pan and need to replace it and Summit said I have the later model small block. Well it's a old style 2 piece seal rear main cap with a old style crank shaft. So I assume you can run a older crank in the newer blocks and use a two piece rear main?
Thanks for the information, cant wait for the 305 v6 run video. you encourage me to rebuild my 350 sbc. I hear your really busy with other builds, hope your shop has AC its going to be hot here in Phoenix soon. :D
Also didnt see anyone mention that in 91 or 92 they went to a roller cam and on the vortec block there is not the extra bolt hole on the water pump that is all tue way thru to thr water jacket on the non vortec
not sure if anyones mentioned it, but you need to be REALLY careful with cams in marine motors... If you don't have the right LSA you can get reversion where the motor actually sucks water back in the engine because the exhausts manifolds have water in them.
Yes this is very true this is just one aspect to consider when building a marine engine where people get in trouble is they put a passenger car engine into a boat this is a really bad idea marine engines are built very different than a car engine everything from balancing to clearances and yes the cam profile like you said, great point
Hey great channel pal” I’m building me an 880 block now and am using a lot the knowledge I’m learning every step of the way. That being said, it would be nice to know exactly what is the differences in timing covers from older to newer sbc. Thanks a bunch keep up the good work 👌👌👌
The vortec uses a plastic timing cover that has a built in seal and a crank sensor you can use the early steel cover on it if you install the dowl pins into it the bolt pattern is the same
This was perfect thank you . I have a early 1970s cam and lifters heads and intake I was unsure weather they would work on a 87 4 bolt main . Can you please do a video on installing cam bearings everyone iv talked to has a different way I need to see your way please
I just built my first stroker .did the oil pan rail clearancing myself out the pan on and installed the motor .guess what.i didn't clearance the oil pan...nothing is hurt.. just sounded bad till I figured outwhat it was..I won't say what my first thoughts and words were
Great share, I,m asking, without a scope how can I determine if my 1985 305 ci.is a one piece or two piece rear seal ? The engine number tells me its a 1985 installed in Malibu. The chassis was an unknown build date donor car. Thanks
What about the intake manifold mounting bolts on the newer block with TBI? I thought that some of the bolts are angled which prevents you from running a carburetor manifold.
not sure what kind of boat but it is on the big side he said one of these engines runs clockwise and the other runs counter clock wise I guess to avoid torque steer
MrColdwatercanyon just a note check the seals for the way the groves are going. I've hear on the counter rotators the groves on the seal are flipped to help keep oil in the motor and to help with leaking....
Currently rebuilding my vortec block but i was wondering i have a one piece main seal but at 4:05 , is their supposed to be a gasket or something that goes where the main bearing journal is where the one piece main seal bolts up to ? Was only wondering because i was told the slots were made to run a 2 piece and one main seal Thanks.
Ah-Ha! Likely you didn't mean to say a 1998 can have 1970 cylinder heads. Starting in 1996 all of the engines had some major changes like the Vortec heads, roller camshafts, multi-port fuel injection vs. TBI from 1986-1995. One example is that you could do a camshaft and lifter job on the 1995 and earlier engines by just pulling the intake manifold and valve covers off. Newer models you have to remove the cylinder heads to do a cam and lifter job. As far as the actual head bolt pattern, not sure. TBI's are center bolt heads with center bolt valve covers. So many unnecessary changes making things more difficult and less interchangeable makes most people think they have been trying to make the old shade tree mechanic give up and take it to the dealership for service. Like why would the engineers mess with the location and reliability of an oil pump? Well, they did it on the 1996 and later models.
1 what i need to change from 2 piece seal to 1 piece ? 2 i have 1981suburban 350 SB, to change more horse power 350 , do i need more cooling , my area extreme hot regards, and thanks for the information Mak
I pulled out an internally balanced 350 from by '78 GMC P35. I ordered a rebuilt motor and when I received it I noticed that it is externally balanced. Can I just put a different flywheel (manual transmission) on the new motor?
'86 is also the year they introduced stock hydraulic roller lifters to their SBC lineup, saving loads of trouble of having to add ZDDP formula to every oil change. What's really nice is a lot of parts from the Vortec era can be carried over to the '86-'95 engine lineup, thus modernizing any engine you've been running for 30 years or more.
Yeah Ford did the same thing, they ran flat tappets for years way after the SBC blocks got rollers on some of their engines. Jeg's direct replacement truck motors still come with flat tappets, their Vortec models came with rollers, though now it seems they're phasing Vortec motors out in favor for crate performance engines. Rebuilt motors are gonna be the cheapest way to go in order to get a stock engine with hydraulic rollers.
Skyline Fever, the raised boss tower is cast in the galley and can be drilled and tapped for the spider hold down. Very easy to make those motors into a roller cam motor.
Yeah you don't even have to go that far, just get roller lifters that are paired together with a control arm, that arm keeps the lifters from spinning in their bores so the rollers are always in line with the cam.
I’ve seen a lot of people run cooler lines to the centre of the head because of the valves burning out Also cooler lines from back to the front and middle of the manifold Is there a water jacket in the centre between the bolts on the manifold into the head ?
I have a 79 350 block 2 piece on the rear 4 bolt main the only issue i have is the fkexplate vibrates a little n ive replaced it twice ha snew harmonic balancer but still vibrates a little any advice on what could cause the vibration dowmes not burn oil runs very good had it on truck since 85 and has no blowby
I am in the same ‘boat’. :) I have an 88 Sea Ray with 2 x 5.7s (1 piece rear-main seal) and they need overhaul. Could you please tell me what heads & camshafts combo you used to increase his HP? If you have a recommended brand or a link please include. Thank you for the very informative video!
when you install the timing gear do you put lock tite on the 3 bolts? also the specs for timing chain slack say around 22 mm. that seems like alot.. what is acceptable. thanks
Port and Starboard FYI :--))))))))))))))))))))) Oh, I just noticed those engines, being black, I'm thinking these are Merc-Cruiser engines? They are Chev 350 & big blocks, not sure sure about Fords, tho. We used these engines at Tollycraft Yachts when I worked there way back.
I have a 350 with the starter boats are straight across ,is that away to tell if it's a one or two piece seal , with the starter bolt hole pattern that's straight across what tooth flywheel will I need 168 or 154
I just got my motor rebuilt and the end of the crankshaft that you called a flex plate the new motor does not have the studs in it. And I’m having a hard time getting them out of the old block. What do I google to find these new studs? And what are they called?
id much rather have the old 2 piece seals. you can remove the oilpan and rear cap, and use a wood screw to pull the old seal and put a new seal in by rotating the crank by hand. the 1 piece type you have to separate the engine from transmission to replace
The one piece blocks aren’t better, they’re a lighter casting by 15lbs and that weight was removed from the coolant passage walls and main web which makes them significantly more noteworthy for cracking along said walls . As to the rear main, clock the seal and you will WILL eliminate the leaking, it’s that easy.
Can you put a late-model crank one-piece rear main in the early block which was two piece cuz I seen online where they make it us to go for the one piece to a two piece or two piece two ones each other say aluminum flange art I really need to know if I should very much
Hello I have a early block the problem I'm having is that the 2 pc rear seal it seam to be to long. Can I cut the end to make them fit. I think they sent me the wrong seal because they go above the block like if they to long. Thank Robert
This difference sucks when your working on a budget, pulled the 350 out of my 87 IROC, put a 70 350 in it an the damm flywheel want work,now I have to hunt down a flywheel for a early 350
Question on a harmonic balancer. Did about 2 hrs of research with no luck. Dirt circle track sbc 6500 rpm msd chipped with rotating assembly internally balanced, h beam rods hyperpneutectic pistons and 1 piece cast crank. Will any balancer work or would you have a suggested opinion?
I'm in need of some advice I have 1989 Chevy k1500 and I need to replace or rebuild my 350 tbi that's in it. The question I have is it worth the extra money to put in a roller cam setup or leave it factory cam I would like to get about 325 hp out of it is that possible without doing a 383 stroker build
I think the only drawback is they did not make a 400 crank with a one piece seal so you can't make a 383 stroker on the newer blocks. I believe the last 400 SBC was 1980. please correct me if I'm wrong
Dude those crank shafts has lots of differences you should inform the public of..i understand maybe why you didn't mention a few things ..because it really doesn't have much to do with the rear mainseal...but obviously one crank was forged...which can handle much more horse power.....while the one piece seal crank is clearly a cast crankshaft...and it would also appear the forged crank was one of the few that was internally and externally balanced...probably out of an old school 350 out of a suburban or truck..with what they used to call 400hp heads...which if i am correct you cannot bolt any old,flywheel to it will vibrate it's self to pieces in no time..im aware people will most likely argue that 350 never made an inrernal/external balanced engine..but indeed they did a few..for bigger applicatipns...same reason you cannot use 400 to 350 fly wheels to interchange....just saying ..i like your videos...you do have a lot of knowledge...but I find in some of your videos you fail to mention certain things that in my opinion is vital ...
i see you mention interchangeable on all parts would that include distributor from like 85 going into a lets say 86 to 89 vehicle i should know this but i do most of the bull work installing and removing had a friend who did timing ect ?
Question....someone has to have had this problem? ....I have 1986 350-383 stroker blue printed and balanced. The balced crank requires a 2 piece. I've replaced rear main correctly 2 times with oil small dribble after running the car. Any suggestions? I've used dry felpro, measured, put lip to oil...
Anybody watching this video recently?? ... you'll find out that the harmonic balancer is a different thickness, therefore v-belt pulleys from older small blocks don't line up with the crank pulley, the balancer is thinner. Am I the only one with this problem? Do I shim the crank pulley outwards???
I shimmed the power steering pump and all good now. V belts look better in my opinion, serpentine belts don't belong in oldcars.... neither do ls motors ..... oh snap! Just broke the internet
How the heck do you get the old seal out of the housing to replace it with a new one wirh out damaging the housing? Is there a video that addresses that?
@@Myvintageiron7512 I have it out. The seasons a bugger to remove was just wondering if a trick to popping it out so I can install the new one. I've seen a couple guys beat it out with a hammer and punch.
I have a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am with a carbureted 305 in it LG 4 I also have a 350 short block with a 2-piece rear main seal in it I want to take the 305 out and put the 350 in it could you give me some advice on making my accessories work and my 700 R4 bolt up to the block correctly
it will fit fine the only thing you need to change is the flex plate the back of the crank has a different bolt pattern the ring gear and torque convertor mounting holes are the same
The older blocks were more common with 4 bolt mains, which are stronger for big power. Most of the newer blocks with a 1 piece rear main seal come with a 2 bolt main. There are 1 piece rear mains with 4 bolt mains but they aren’t very common.... hopefully that makes sense.
I put all my vortex stuff on an older block, had problem with timing cover cause of crank sensor. Or was I doing it wrong or they just don't fit ? Because no crank sensor on other cover obviously thanks for time
I have a 88 350 hooked up to a Saginaw 4spd trans bottom end went well wrist pin but I bought a 86 350 it has a one piece seal my question is what flexplate clutch setup do I need to fit the Saginaw 4spd trans
@@Myvintageiron7512 thank u I really appreciate it and if the flywheel that was on the one piece main had weights on it I need a external balanced one correct
