351w with Mutha Thumpr Cam 

In the video it was a 600 Quick Fuel Slayer VS. Since then its been fuel injected with a holley sniper and turbocharged.

@@dentsidemechanic1238 sound change much since the sniper install? I’m currently building a 351/ bored & stroked to 427ci on my channel. Going to use the sniper stealth.

@@dansgarage2010 I have another video with sniper installed. With the sniper and 5 speed I was able to get the idle higher in neutral so its not quite as lumpy but still sounds mean.

@@dansgarage2010 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qbc7UO8eMmI.html

Gracias amigo

We call it Rufus or Ole Sanford lol. But i dig Frankenstein!

302's can get chopping pretty hard

@@dentsidemechanic1238 probably easier to find the 302 out of a '98 Explorer I heard the engine mounts in the '99 Ranger just needs to be modified a little bit to fit the Explorer 302

You do you but I like ford in a ford. Hard to beat that ole cammed windsor though.

My Capri with a 408 sounds like this . And my 79 2wd Ford f1 long box too . That's got a 393 stroker in it and gear drive. 4-56 gear ratio on a spool c6 with manual reverse valve body. Should be interesting to hit the highway

I used the comp cams mutha thumpr. Any of the thumpr line of cams will give you a similar sound. Lunati barebones is a pretty radical sounding cam. E303, F303, X303 cam will give you a good lump. Those are just the ones off the top of my head. RU-vid search 351w cammed and you should see a lot of different cam options. Just an fyi most of your lumpy cams have a high lift and you'll need a good valve train to support and also pay attention to the required compression ratio, rear, gearing and torque converter if applicable. A lumpy cam without good supporting components make for tough tuning and a dog of an engine.

No the stock style 351w pistons have huge dishes in them. This is an '89 block that was rebuilt to oem specs.

Idk could be the heads, intake, or any number of things i can show you my cam card or box. Its definitely the big mutha thumpr.

Part# 35-601-8 Grind# FW 291T HR -107 MM Thumper Camshaft Gross Valve Lift Intake .541 Exhaust .526

I am wrong sir. This is a mutha thumper cam. Not a big mutha thumpr cam. Tis what it tis though. Thanks for pointing that out.

Tuber Coupe Jr still sounds good! I’m building a 351w with Brodix heads, 11:1 compression and the bmt cam.

lack of idle speed, compression, and timing can make a good cam sound lazy

You need to upgrade you valvetrain, change pushrod lengths, and change distributor gear.

I got one because it just helped with overall tuning and also have a manual shift kit in my c6. I like to know what rpms im shifting. Is it absolutely needed, no. But i personally enjoy it functionally and aesthetically.

I have a holley sniper efi now and that had a tachometer built into it. But i personally like the look of a tach and i didnt want to sell it.

@@dentsidemechanic1238 sweet, thanks for the fast response. And that's a mean sounding truck haha

@@wyattm3667 no problem! And thanks

You should buy the kit and then there will be extras youll need besides the kit i can give a small break down below: With this camshaft, you'll definitely need new push rods and valve springs that handle the lift. If you have a roller block you can potentially reuse your lifters and distributor gear. If you have a flat tappet block youll need the linked retro-fit lifters and a distributor gear to match the gear on the camshaft. Then as a suggestions (not absolutely needed but highly recommended) i would get a new high quality timing chain and high quality roller rockers.

You also have to look at the cam specs and match them to your current engine build. Alot of people just wanna throw a big lumpy cam in but if you dont have the supporting assessories (heads, intake, carb/efi, rear gearing, torque converter (if auto), or compression ratio) more times than not itll run like a turd and you'll be disappointed.

Im from Gettysburg area. Unfortunately i ended up selling my notch for a harley and to fund my truck. Couldn't afford to have two project vehicles.

Not to my knowledge. I used a weiand stealth intake for a 351w.

Multiple tests by several independents show the Performer or the Perf RPM to be superior to any Wiend.

In reality the early 351W heads with the fat spark plugs out perform the P heads. Specifically the early W heads have 144 cc intakes compared to 124 with the same valves. BUT the old heads do not have hard seats.

Bought it through Summit Racing.

Comp cams linked lifters and scorpion pedestal mount roller rockers. Would recommend stud mount but i didn't want to pay the money to upgrade the gt40p heads.

That question is kinda outta my wheel house. Im not sure what's easier building headers or modifying a Cleveland head to fit a windsor. Im not sure what flows better either. I'd pick the head that flows better and go from thre.

From what ive read most off the shelf longtubes fit gt40p heads and clear the spark plugs. The catch is nonody makes a longtube header to fit into a 73-79 ford truck that has a 351w swapped into it. Some say that the hedman longtubes for a 302 equipped 73-79 will work with a 351w buts its 50/50. Most of the time they clash with the frame or steering box.

@@dentsidemechanic1238 did you use 90 degree spark plug ends?

@@janeandjohndoe8458 i used msd plugs wires that can be bent in any orientation

I believe 12 degrees advanced. I actually got rid of the carb and put a holley sniper on it im running 14* advanced and she sounds a lot more rowdy with the better air/fuel system.

Yes the stock nonroller push rod is 8.150" i believe and i had to get shorter push rod. Around 7.5".

Made like 350hp to the tires (so 400ish engine hp?). Good cruiser not really set up to race. But still had enough ass to hold its own when needed.

I used a 2500 stall. I was told by a trusted friend any higher wouldnt pair well with a mostly street driven truck. As of right now i also have stock 2.75 rear gears. Going to a 3.25 soon. Definitely definitely needs a steeper rear gear to make use of cam and stall.

Ive got gt40ps on my .30 over 351w. Just two thing you gotta keep in mind. 1) gt40p heads have a 7/16" head bolt you'll need to have it drilled out for the 351w's 1/2" head bolt. 2) you'll have a hell of a time w/ headers. I ended up buying mac shorties that are specifically made for a gt40p heads. They are for a fox mustang.

@@dentsidemechanic1238 Thanks for the info.

Honestly you probably shouldn't even bother with a .60 over small block. The cylinder walls will be too thin and won't handle heat or vibration very well.

It comes down to a lot of personal preferences. I'm my opinion the 351w is better because there's ton of modern aftermarket support for them. Especially if you invest in a dart 351 block then your set to make 1000hp with the right set up.

But when if you're going for stock or a mild build its really whatever you prefer wrenching on.

No sir

The heads has a multi angle valve job done to them. (Helps performance but not required). Gt40p heads require specific valve springs. Alex's Parts sells valve springs that don't require machining to install.

Must've not had the right set up. This thing pulls like a freight train.

Sniper holley efi, manaul trans, and steeper rear gears made a world of difference for me.

Compared to what? Compared to the stock cam or the 275 deh cam it gained torque. Truck runs perfect what I wanted.

Had to get upgraded valve springs, upgraded to roller rockers, and remeasure for push rods. The cam and lifters go right in other wise.

Advertised Intake Duration: 291 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 311 Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 235 Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 249 Intake Valve Lift: 0.522 Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.526 Lobe Separation: 107

Ran great. Now she's got a 5 speed and turbo. Pull like a freight train.

@@dentsidemechanic1238 right on

The engine build was around $3500-$4000. Fresh Shortblock 351w bored .030 over $1400 Top end (heads, cam, intake) $1450 Carb + small odds and ends - $500.

I had a used 351w but the rings were bad and had extreme blow by so instead of rebuilding the block I just bought a shortblock. Could prolly save some money if you have a used block or build your own bottom end.

Yes i used alex's part's springs. They have gt40p specific springs where no machining is required. And what specs would you like? Ask and I'll answer to the best of my knowledge.

My mufflers or mufflers in general?