#36 Planer Blade Sharpening 

You are right! I've been in the same situation. Knives were sharp... but not straight!

@@FromSteelToWood I can tell you why they don't come back straight. If they stack the blades four high and grind them all at once you get accumulative error. The other reason they don't come back straight is because the operator is to lazy to let the grinder spark out at the end of the run. Often the grinder is worn out from lack of proper maintenance too. Sharpening services are very competitive so they cut corner's on staff quality 🙄. Usually the guy who does pick up and delivery does a sideline selling drugs !

You are welcome Chris! Make sure to keep your table saw well lubricated. The grit will definitely tend to wear the tabletop.

Thanks!

Thanks!

I like it simple! thanks!

I did not knew it was shown in a manual. Anyways, the principle is quite simple. The way the blade is fixed in the jig could improve the small bow. BTW, it's probably far less than 0.003" or the sheet would stick in that gap quite easily. Thanks!

stoparret every time i see delta toos, i think to myself “the new yankee workshop” hahah

Thanks!

Thanks Mike!

Unfortunately, I don't have any! Thanks!

Thanks for the advice!

Thanks Robert! Those blades are set into the blade holder with a depth tool. The reference being the cutting edge against the depth tool (Delta planer). So one blade could be very different to the other. I now have a new DeWalt planer and the blades are set by the bolts on the center of the blade. Then it would be important to have them identical. I'll find a way to have it identical one day! Thanks!

Great!

Thanks!

Thanks Louis! That is a good idea to have a dedicated table saw for that purpose. Of course the dust collector is not working. It was also disconnected from under the table!

From Steel To Wood Sorry, I heard something running in the background.

Great, the HDPE will be much more friendly with the cast iron table. When you have a video of that, I would be glad to see it! Thanks!

That is right! That method is good only if the blade depth is set with a jig. Some planers like Dewalt can't use that method. Thanks!

Hum... that makes me think a bit more about that possibility. It's pretty much running without guards in that configuration. I'll keep that in mind for the future! Thanks!

@@FromSteelToWood Yeah... I'm not trying to be rain on the parade. There are things I really like about the idea, like that it gives you a long reference surface that's hard to achieve with a bench grinder tool rest. Maybe make a "blade guard" that minimizes the exposed stone. It could even be out of wood or a shatter resistant plastic... just anything to contain the bits if the wheel flings off a chip. I'm tempted to set up something similar but I think I would run perpendicular to the fence/miter slots. That leaves more jigging to build and set up but I think you'd get more surface area of the grinding wheel in contact with the planer blade and wear the face of the stone evenly. It would still give that long reference surface of the table saw to keep my planer knife straight. Thanks for sharing! As background, the reason I always think about grinding wheels coming apart is because 1) I was trained to always make sure the guards were in place on bench grinders to contain the wheel if it breaks, 2) I was trained to tap the wheel to make sure it rings and discard it if it gives a dull sound since that indicates it's probably cracked, and 3) shortly after I was trained to pay attention to that stuff a guy a couple towns south of mine died when a wheel broke apart, fired one chunk into his chest, and he was alone in the shop. I don't have any way of knowing what the condition of his grinding wheel was or what he was doing when it broke... it may have been neglect and carelessness that most of us wouldn't allow to happen... but it made a lasting impression.

@@Volksaholic that is not rain on the parade, that is good advice I like to read. I like to learn from past experience, so I can avoid dangerous situation. I like the idea of a perpendicular jig. That would be easier to manage the grinding wheel wear. Thanks!

I am glad it can help you!

Thanks!

Good to know! Thanks!

The stone is rated for 3820 rpm and the table saw is for 3450 rpm. A good thing to double-check that prior to using!

Thanks! Yes I did, but the weight of the steels acts in favor of stability. Also, hardwood is susceptible to dimensional change with moisture gain. So the reason I went for steel. Thanks!

I saw a wooden jig with cam locks and using saw paper on a table saw wheel. Sorry I lost the site! Sized for both jointer & planer blades.

Thanks! And I know I could have used a vacuum instead of compressed air. But it does not seem to reach every spots! Thanks for your comment!

Joe Lesage, 😂 I was just joking. Of course you know what a vacuum is, you have multiple and you are a very smart guy. I decided to remove the “joke” after not finding it funny enough, hoping you wouldn’t see it.

I like jokes you know! And I saw the comment before you had a chance to edit it! So it was kinda reversed joke to you! Thanks!

That is a good idea. I did not have the tools to do so back then! Thanks!

Thanks!

That is a deluxe fence! Well thought!

Seems like a good idea!

Thanks! I am glad it can help you save some money and time!

Thanks!

It is very similar to original blades. But this is based on a cheaper version of a planer and blades anyways (high speed steel, not carbide). Those blades are for other people's use, they have the Delta model. I used to have a Delta planer not long ago before my DeWalt. This is why I can tell they work good. My new planer has 3 blades that needs to be identical, as they have no adjustment. I will find soon a way of sharpening them anyways. I have some ideas in progress for it! Thanks for watching Reg Sparkes!

Oui, mais il faut faire attention de bien lubrifier la table et nettoyer souvent l'huile qui se contamine d'abrasif. Sinon, on risque d'endommager la surface de la table. Pour un usage occasionnel, bien sûr! Merci!

Absolutely. If I had an electric leaf blower, that is what I would do!

Quality????????????????? General International was just about the WORST brand of machines out there. NOBODY with experience wants them because they are garbage machines.

What is the brand you prefer?

@@FromSteelToWood If your just going to use it to blow your saw out I would look at a cheap one. I use a sthil gas powered , my workshop is in my garage outside so I don't have to worry about fumes.

It's not perfect, but way much better than a dull planer blade! Make sure to use aluminum oxyde. In my understanding, this is the best media to avoid overheating the blade.

Hello, the yellow tool, see link below. Can you write to my e-mail address, so I might share some dimensions with you. My address joe.lesage@hotmail.com www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/safety/guards/60444-blade-changing-tool

Thanks for your comment! I wish I could have demonstrated that on a wood board, but the blades I was sharpening were for my brother and it's a Delta planer. Mine is a DeWalt. I think what you mean is the stiffener discs. Otherwise, it's the blade changing tool? See the links below. The vibration is from the belt. This table saw is belt driven and I don't release the tension on the belt between uses. So it develops a memory over a long period not used. I should either remove tension or use a link belt. But the camera is fussy too! Thanks! www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/30075-blade-stiffeners www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/safety/guards/60444-blade-changing-tool www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/30051-link-belt-for-power-tools

@@FromSteelToWood Didn't know there is a blade changing tool. I use a block of wood or lock jaw pliers. I have link belts on my table saw, band saw and 10" wet saw for cutting granite and tiles. BTW the green belts are much cheaper from Harbor Freight (even without the 20% coupon) then the red ones. I have both, and see no difference and interchangeable. Thanks for the links.

I did the block of wood until it slipped and broke a tooth on a good blade. From that time, I got the blade changing tool!

That sums it all! A thorough cleanup is required and even then, one must face the idea of abrasive wear might continue. I've left that video on RU-vid, this is idea is either hated or liked... People chose! Thanks!

Thank!

I remove the burr with a utility knife. Seems odd, but it works!

@@FromSteelToWood Good idea!!

That is a good idea, because the edge is still rough. I could get better results. Thanks for sharing the idea!

Thanks!

Thanks for your comment! You bet I've got project! I've got a geared head milling machine last fall that I will start using next summer. As of now, the tractor takes all available room in my garage!

Have you thought about building a garage specifically for your tractor?

Actually, I am planning on building a car port next to my garage so it can stay outside, but yet protected against elements in winter time. I might need a block heater. But it would allow me to continue working clear of obstacle in winter!

You and I have similar interests and hobbies, so that is what I was thinking. The Tractor out of your 'shop' would certainly give you a lot more open floor space, and the tractor under a 'car port' would benefit by having a block heater installed, maybe even one for the transmission too , to keep the hydraulic fluid warm.

On my tractor, the hydraulic fluid is in the torque tube, where there is the High-Drive-Low range gears. So it warms up easily when moving the tractor. There is the differential and transmission that has it's own oil. So I think I would be good for a simple block heater. We will see next year!

Hello, I am sorry I won't be able to share more details about the jig at this moment, as I just moved out of my current house and will move to the new house in a month. Meanwhile, the jig is in a box in storage! Sorry!

@@FromSteelToWood ok, thanks for the response. I am thinking of making some sort of jig that I can use on a surface grinder for my jointer blades.

Thanks Gareth! The only drawback of this method is the wear on the cast iron table. It must be kept well lubricated and cleaned periodically. I discovered after a while. The grit from the grinding wheel mix with the oil and it can be abrasive for the table. A purist woodworker might consider my table saw totaled as the cast iron is no longer the mirror finish where the jig slide. But for my usage, that is no problem. Then the other consideration is to make very small passes. If the grinding wheel takes too much, it will heat the blade and it will lose its temper. I have a diamond stone to straighten the grinding wheel, so it's always perfectly balanced and it does not wobble at all. The way the blade runs against the grinding wheel, the jib does not have any tendency to deviate from the fence, so I did not experience any kickback whatsoever. I don't do much woodworking on my channel at this moment. I did a lot of furniture in the past before I have my YT channel. Thanks for your subscription and your nice comment!

@@FromSteelToWood Another problem is different heights/weights of the blades.

Thanks for commenting Bruce. The blade is being clamped into the ±20lbs jig. So the weight of the jig is just enough to maintain the blade against the grinding wheel. But overall, it needs the patience to set properly! Thanks!

Gareth Diedericks Gareth Diedericks In addition, all the grinding dust in the insides of your saw will grind everything to a smooth fit, just before it wears out.

Thanks!

@@FromSteelToWood I think if you put a water soaked rag inside in touch with blade, it keeps cooling while grinding. Keep soaking after each pass. I would be building this, I have makita grinder, man does it make mess on wet sharpening!!

Could be working, but I am not so much a fan of water on my cast iron table saw! Lol! The idea of taking very quick and small passes is to avoid overheating, by letting the heat to dissipate through the blade. I don't get any blueish color on the blade. However, If I took deep passes (>0.005"), it will go blue.

@@FromSteelToWood I know what you mean! But with so much oil, I figure lightly water soaked rag inside the channel would be less penetrative into the table, and keep temperature way down. Seems you have to wipe down every time anyways.

Thanks Gosen!

Ken, there was a good reason for that. I am not a fan of blowing away debris with an air gun. I think you noticed that 4 inches vacuum line coming from the dust collector. It was running while I was blowing air. Most of the dust that I could dislodge went into the dust collector. A ShopVac is not as strong as a 125 psi blow of air to dislodge sawdust in confined areas. Some sawdust might have been sitting there for years in the corners. Over time, it packs. Moreover, it's easier to visually control that no more dust is coming from those crevices, gaps, blind holes, etc. Thanks!

You are right. Good observation. This is creating wear on the surface of the table and not suitable for regular use. I do that every other year for my purpose and clean the machine after that. So to say, at this pace, this table saw will last for my whole life anyways... Thanks for your comment!

Can get small blocks of nylon on ebay for nothing. Also, nice to see a double trunnion contractor saw. Haven't seen inside of many saws but fairly sure that's a feature reserved for larger cabinet saws. I have an old startrite (UK manufacturer) and having issues with it because it's the whole cast iron blade tilt and height mechanism is hanging on a single trunnion! Cast iron construction is nice but not when it's half-baked!

Thanks!

Thanks!

You are welcome!

Good point Hieronim. This is why I have to move the blade from one spot to the other on the blade and make sure I don't end up with a rounded edge! (Google Translate) Dobry punkt Hieronim. Właśnie dlatego muszę przenosić ostrze z jednego miejsca do drugiego na ostrzu i upewnić się, że nie otrzymam zaokrąglonej krawędzi!

No? Should I?

Joe Lesage did u ever live in Albuquerque?

No! I must have a clone then!

Joe Lesage ya he lives in Toledo now

Lol! BTW I live in Canada.

You are right, the grit is one major downside of it!

Haven't deleted any up to now. That is your opinion. How do you sharpen your blades?

Or maybe a dedicated table for that purpose! It's definitely not for a daily sharpening purpose I must admit!

You are right on all points. But I don't do that every day either. In my case, that was it or nothing...

That is a honest comment John! You are right, repeated use would wear down my table. And this is not as perfect as the original sharpening. I can only say it works just fine for my use. Thanks!

Oops! You are right! I wear safety gear while I work. Can't figure why I did not have it at that moment. Sorry.

Another internet safety police.

LVRider OSHA inspector. Busted !

Thanks!