383 Engine Autopsy - Bad Build Investigated 

On that leaky rear main, pay close attention to the direction of the knurls. A reverse rotation crank from a marine engine will have the knurls angled in the opposite direction of a regular rotation crank. Other than that the cranks are the same. The reverse rotation knurls will suck oil out of the engine rather than pushing it back in. In such a case the remedy is to completely polish the knurls off. The knurls are designed for rope type seals, (which can work well when properly installed). Your machinist will find the answer. Can't wait to see what he says. Good luck!

Hey Monday and a 383 teardown. I'm anxious to see what you find wrong, here we go!!!

Since becoming a dedicated fan of the channel, I always make it a point to spread the word of Nick's Garage. I am pleased to say that two of my friends are now aware of the stellar content that you are kind enough to provide. Much appreciation to all those involved!

Had this same problem. Bought a aftermarket seal block, leaked bad ! Took the crank out and mocked the seal to discover the seal block was too far forward not allowing the seal end tabs to line up. Quick fix: inlarge the bolt holes till the end tabs line up and it sealed up great. Hope this helps. Keep the videos rolling!!

I was taught to proper prepare the gasket surfaces and the tin covers. You have recently mentioned dinging back the bolt holes. That was exactly how I was taught. You will never need to goop up the engine with silicon if you properly prepare your build. We've had at least 2 engines in our shop that had failed due to silicon over applied and inside the engine a chunk broke loose and plugged an oil passage. My boss ( mentor) was just like Nick, he would curse the scourge of misapplication of sealers. I was taught well and still use this methodology today, some 40 years later.

I've been building engines for 30+years and this man impressed me.

Nick has an old S&K ratchet handle. They work real smooth. Love mine. It’s 57 years old.

LOVE , when Nick does the troubleshooting on the engines that come in . Best Muscle Car Channel on RU-vid...Take care Nick and George.

Kendal sent his engine to the right guy. Nobody knows Chrysler engines better than Nick!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I love watching experienced guys working, with such effortless confidence. "Just leaks because it's old"? What a crock. I'm glad it found it's way to you Nick. Cheers from Alberta!

Just scored a 77 Cordoba today Nick with 41k original miles, 400 4 Bbl lean burn, been sitting in a dry garage in a house since 1992. Going to pull the plugs and soak the cylinders and clean the fuel tank and entire fuel system before even cranking it. Since it's just an overbored 383, great timing with this video

I'm always impressed by the way you take parts off & put them down carefully in order, not just sling them in a box like some do.

Yes Nick you are correct! Sorry for not putting our names on it or including a letter of appreciation of how you take on all projects as they are your own. Special thanks to you and George. Raven and Gary. Thanks also for not losing your cool taking off that oil pan, that was painful. My Dad would smack me if I did that lol. He always said the gasket makes the seal, as you do. Thanks so much.

Nick is such a down to earth guy. I love this channel. Thanks, Nick, for all this awesome content! You truly should be an official ambassador to Dodge!

Earliest memory of a 383, I was 3 or 4 years old, and there was this blue '64 Polara that had the coolest idle I've ever heard. Always have been a fan of the 383 and 340. Had the good fortune years ago to drive a '70 Challenger T/A. Unforgetable!

Not sure why this channel popped up in my feed but this is great! I used to have that same engine in a ‘68 Charger that unfortunately got totaled out in ‘85. This brings back so many cool memories of working on it. It was without question my favorite engine/car to work on of all I’ve owned! 👍👍

As long as we have guys like Nick around we can rest assured that the classics will never be forgotten ✌️🇺🇸

I think it's awesome that you are so willing to teach those of us working on our own vehicles, or other peoples cars. I can't thank you enough. I wish you had this level of knowledge and expertise with the internet working.

Thank you for Nick and George for sharing the tear down. I will stay tuned to see the final diagnosis on the oil leak. “ Here We Go” decal is a nice touch. Great show!!

Nick's garage just gets better and better. It should be compulsory viewing for young mechanics as to the lessons given by Nick about engine work. Appears a previous engine builder didn't seek advice falling into pitfalls, especially in selection of pistons and gaskets. Certainly the over use of synthetic gasket material was shocking. My first thought about rear seal leaking was a damaged housing. Nick the detective has a clue its the crankshaft journal edges, as we used to say, 'out of true.' In any event all will be revealed in the next episode.

You should check if the rear seal retainer is contacting the rear main bearing cap. They sometimes don't have enough clearance from the top of the cap, especially since it has an after market crank and retainer

Geiá sou Nick! Your right to be suspicious of someone who silicones the skatá out of every gasket. That'll take forever to clean off and redo correctly. Great detective work spotting the lack on knurling on the crankshaft, the too thick head gasket and low compression deck height job. The good news is that your customer will get back a properly rebuilt engine for his/her pride and joy! Bad news is they paid twice! Thank you for another fun and informative video!

Goooood evening guys!!!!!! Remember, everybody, THE GASKET MAKES THE SEAL!!!!! I love these teardown videos, you never know what Nick will find: as thorough as he is, if there’s something to BE found, he’ll find it. I know that 383 will be just fine after Nick does his stuff o it. And by the way, George, nice Mail Time sound effects!!!! 😂😂😂 Great week, all!!!!

Hey Nick, Kendall will be sure glad his 383 is now in the safest hands ever to get sorted out and rebuilt with No oil leaks and little gasket gue thus running the way it is meant too! Mail time was a real beaut one this time and worth the wait, just loved the model engine complete with spark plugs firing way cool.

I built a 440 a few years ago and it had the same oil leak. Nothing we did stopped or even slowed it down. Long story short, it turned out that the engine started out as a reverse rotation marine engine. The knurling on the rear main was the wrong direction and pushed the oil out of the seal.

Nick. Such enthusiasm. Such extensive knowledge. Unselfish. Willing to share with others. A true pleasure to behold. If Nick breaks down your engine and re-builds it, you can be sure that it will be better than factory when he is finished. Nick is the real McCoy, a real engine and muscle car specialist. The engine doctor makes a diagnosis again.

Thank you Nick for showing what a job is done when it's done right I worked in a lot of garages a lot of people didn't like Perfection they wanted to get the vehicle back on the road they didn't care and that really frustrated me I'm so glad to see you doing the same perfectional work it's an absolute joy to watch you this 74 year old guy can't do the physical work anymore but it is a joy to watch a professional keep up the good work Nick

Man I have to agree with you Nick, who ever assembled that engine may have got it together but they didn't really know what they were doing. Also for anyone who would like to know not only does a windage tray help keep oil from splashing on the crank it then in turn helps to keep the oil from becoming aerated and losing it's ability to lubricate. I love watching your show. Takes me back to my childhood working on my late father's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S before we got into the Wankel rotary cars. While that is my favorite engine, there's nothing like a good ol Mopar big block 🤙

Dial indicator on the knurling before removing crank. Someone polished that surface?

Back in the day with the “rope” seal, we just hammered/smashed the rope in place real good and then trimmed at the parting line and never had a problem - and then along came the “improved” plastic type seals..

If this were my engine at this point, The crank and pistons would go in the scrap barrel and I'd have you make another 426 stroker motor. You brought it to Nick so bomb the credit card and really make something done right!

...this reminds me that back in high school (67), I owned a 65 Mustang....it would leak tranny fluid...but only 2 or 3 days out of the week....it generated a lot of head scratching...turned out that there was a crack in the converter and when that crack settled on the "bottom" in it's rotation...I had my leak....love these automotive inventions...love em....

Always interesting seeing you take an engine apart & diagnose what the heck went wrong. Thanks Nick!

Greatings from South Carolina Nick! Yeah I think your on to it about that crank! I might also have the line bore checked for mains. I'm feel the same about the silicone any time I see that much I feel the guy doesn't know what he's doing!? Nice show!👍

Never use silicone with a gasket. I’ve also seen the opposite with crappy silicone, it prevents the gasket from bonding to the metal and can actually push the gasket out. Great show!

Lots of interesting comments and replies! Nurle direction measurements of seals and crank, location and depth of nurles the seal instalation. Of course the wrong head gaskets (gaskets for AL heads) etc. Very interesting indeed!

Thank you, Nick! I am an old guy that learns so much from you tearing down and building my favorite engines!

I really like that Fire Bird on the lift!

Nick, I use a putty knife to separate oil pans etc. Keep up the good work.

What a great video Nick, I suspect the culprit is indeed the aftermarket crankshaft. I suspect it is likely out of round on the sealing surface. It will be interesting to see what the machinist finds. You have some great fans with some very kind and well-deserved gifts.

a good way to help find leaks, is gently pressurize the whole crankcase with air, using something like a leak-down tester into the PCV/breather/dipstick and plug the other hole. just be sure to keep the pressure very low and the chances are great of air leaking and blowing bubbles in the process if oil is leaking out.

I like watching Nick work on these Old Mopars but man you are killing me with that 70's elevator JAZZ music.

Nick , I have had to also put a Speedi-Sleeve on some crankshafts , when the front or rear keeps leaking at the seal . When the seal would actually wear down on the crank where the lip on the seal ran . But with you taking the crank to be rework should solve the problem . But a Speedi- Sleeve can bring the sealing area on the front or rear seal back into spec ...love to findout what you come up with on the crank ...take care .

I started my auto repair profession in a VW shop sometime around 1970. Air cooled VW engines could develop problem oil leaks at the flywheel seal area. On older (or incorrectly machined for a rebuild ) VW engines oil can leak if the front crankshaft bearing (also used along with shims to control crankshaft end play or thrust) is loose in the engine block/case. This defect is not real common but it does happen. It looks like two different guys worked on the engine assembly. No silicone on the intake but plenty (too much) on the pan. My rule is to never use silicone in a place where it is possible for silicone to be squeezed off and enter the oil. You don't want beads of silicone in your oil. I use very little silicone (if any, water pumps OK, no way for the excess to get in the oil) and I don't have oil leaks.

You can also use the tool to start the plugs and remove them once they are loose enough. The rubber should grip the plug enough to turn.

Professor Nick- I always enjoy taking in your lectures. You're obviously a man who knows the game. Thank you for your commitment to excellence.

I love to watch and listen to Nick while he works on engines, the guy is a fricking legend..

Thank you so much for being an important member who keeps our never forgotten classic high performance cars alive. I support you.

Geez Nick with all that silicone it’s like remedial first year shop at school. I hate silicone and like you believe in the gasket making the seal. Also being so meticulous that when I go to sleep reviewing the build. This autopsy is a lesson for all the mistakes in engine building. Great Videos Thank You 🙏

I love the sound effects of “incoming” packages at mail time. I especially got a chuckle from the Florida package at 1:02:16. Keep up the great videos and the funny sound effects.

Now my day has been completely completed thank you Nick and garage 💪🏻😎

I think I see a ~1974 Trans Am on a lift at the beginning of the video? This video is right up my alley. Thank you Nick!

Im surprised it actually made that much cranking psi with the comp. head gasket and .70 down in the hole. My friend had a RAMCHARGER 4x4 with a fresh rebuilt 400 and asked me to check it out why it made not much power, ran hot, and got horrible gas mileage. First thing I did was a cranking compression check on all 8 cylinders, pressures where between 120 - 130! LOL! I suggested to him that the engine needs to be completely disassemble and be properly blueprinted. He sold the truck a few weeks later.

Thanks Nick and George. I appreciate the work you do and the rest of your team. It's a pleasure tuning in to learn from you all. Thanks again from AZ Frank F.

Nick is a master of his trade! It's great to listen to him explain the do's and don'ts and why. Superior knowledge!

I figured there had to be something wrong with the 383 leaking oil other than the rear seal. I'm sure when the run-out is checked on that crankshaft is checked it will be out of round by .010 or so. Great video George, love your editing. Great gifts at mail time, especially the model engine.

There are engine builders and there are engine assemblers...never confuse the two. Only one of them can be both.

AC Delco makes tracer dye, lights up with a UV light. I mostly use it for small coolant leaks but can come in handy for oil leaks as well. I’m sure you know about it just mentioning it for other people with small leaks that are hard to find.

Nick's Garage makes Monday evening so much better,Thanks A Bushel.

While working as a line tech for Lincoln 1979 we were delivered 8 World cars. 4 escort 4 lynks the 1st one I prepped had a gimungus oil leak at the rear main. I pulled it apart and found the crank seal area had a 1.02ths gouge parallel to the C.S.centerline!!!

Great video Nick. I love how you are teaching what to do and not to do. Please keep up the great videos. I am a fan for life.

good man takes care of his clients and takes pride in workman ship and skill of eng. keep up good work.

Nick youre a 100% quality guy and being 63 I can SO relate to the old school muscle me and my friends grew up with. Really someothing to watch someone who was lucky enough to work in the things he loves, as the old saying goes find a job you love going to and you wont work a day in your life. Best wishes good health and be safe to you and your family.

My Industrial Arts auto professor told me in 1973, "the gasket is the gasket, not the silicone". Overhauled my 383 out of my 68 RR there. Car is long gone.

Awsome Monday Nick. Good time to plop a 440 crank and pistons in it.

Hi Nick, Love your show. Here's a fix for the rear main seal leak, Mopar made a rear main bearing that directs oil away from the rear seal; for the 383, part number is P4349044, 440 is P4349045. I've got a pic but don't know how to get it on here. Mike Detrick from Cumberland, Md.

Hello Nick and all the crew

I enjoyed your video For the first time About the 383 massive Oil leak. You are a fine man. You do very good Diagnostic work. You are very practicle In your work. I worked at a few dealerships in the past mainly chevrolet. In the past. I worked on automatic transmissions. Retired. I am a ham operator And have enjoyed many Conversations north of the border to operators In Ontario Canada. Nice folks indeed. Best regards. Dwight from Allenpark Mich. S. Of Detroit.

It was great seeing you again at Motorama Nick. The Kowalski and the Hemi display was something to see for sure. And, I got to meet George. I was standing next to him for about a minute until I realized who it was. Great to meet George and have a chat. I'm hoping to get my Challenger to you in the fall for some work...hopefully. Keep up the great videos. Always look forward to seeing them. Hi to George.

the aluminum seal retainer is probably available in various crank dia sizes and they didn't double check the dia of the "new crank" and make sure that the retainer was sized for that sealing surface of the replacement crank. Plasti gauge the sealing surface of the retainer and reinstall it... then take it back off and see if the plasti gauge crushed at all. I suspect that the retainer is .020" undersized causing the leak.

Wait! How was the mystery of the leaking seal solved? Have I lost part of the video? Confused here.

As you were tearing down the engine the knurled part didn’t look right. They didn’t look deep enough. Then you found the smoking gun? I wonder if the crank grinder had a rusty crank and decided to give it a quick grind or over polish? Who knows. It’s not right. I was watching in anticipation as you removed the cylinder head. The old Direction books used state use the Felpro permatorque gaskets to lover the compression 1/2 point. My 383 in my Road Runner came rebuilt on a stand. My pistons are .075 below deck. The pistons that were used are supposed to be 9.0 to 1 .well with 906 heads I calculated 8.1.I ended buying 440 source heads and Commetic gaskets that are .029 that would give me about 8.8 . I ended up milling the heads .050 that took them from 80cc to 75cc. I calculated 9.3 to one. My cranking compression is 175 with a 231 @.50 . It’s probably higher now since I went with a cam that has 224@.050 and 10 degrees less overlap. Good detective work.

Measuring the crankshaft diameter in the seal area to see if it's in spec would be a good idea.

My approach to cork and paper gaskets on sheet metal valve covers/oil pans, timing covers, seal retainers, water outlet/thermostat housings-3M Weather Strip adhesive to the housing/valve cover/oil pan side and either a finger rubbed grey silicone or preferably a light coating of the Permatex brown aviation goo on the block side. Not always the easiest to clean up on removal but no seepage/wetness and lasts a long time.

Nick, you're a constant in a chaotic world. 383 mopar engines are my favorite. Thanks for being so positive and great.

This man is a walking bible of engine rebuilds . Vast wealth of knowledge 👍👍👏

Always love a good mystery. Nice detective work Nick!

The usage of florescent dye is the best means to aid locating source of leaks.

True honor to watch this man do his craft,and fortunate to learn from him. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Thxs Nick love it when you show us the do's and don't's...Hope we can watch you all thru the rebuild of this 383.....

With the crank still in the block, use a dial indicator on the knurled area to see of the seal area is out of round or off-center.

Anymore I only use silicone in a couple of places where it is needed and use a little anaerobic sealer to dress other gaskets....Love watching what you do.

Dana "60" Glass. I was trained that use a gasket sealer with a cork gasket sealed to the valve cover, but not glued to head. Rubber gaskets need no sealant except maybe a dab on corners. Never had problems

I live in the Philippines and most mechanics here also way over use silicone..they even put it on the radiator hoses..omg

Great video, with full step by step description of the procedure. Shop Tip: When removing the oil pan from an engine on a stand, replace two bolts on each side with longer ones before tapping or prying the pan loose from the gasket. This frees up your hands to work, and there's no chance the pan will suddenly fall off and make a mess, as the longer bolts will catch the pan.

OK, I think this is anew video. one thing that I picked up on, I believe you said that the rear main seal retainer was an aftermarket part. If it is, that opens the door for a part that is not machined correctly. It may be machined a little to shallow, allowing the hole for the seal to be slightly egg shaped. if that is the case, there may not be enough pressure on the seal which could allow it to leak. but I do have to agree, that the crankshaft does look odd, where the knurling should be there all the way around. the only reason to replace the crankshaft is if it was damaged. and Mopar cranks are as tough as they come (from a production engine).there are a LOT of things about the way that engine was assembled that would make most mopar afficeanados raise their eyebrows about the way it was assembled. there is enough silicone in that engine for half a dozen engines. and silicone on mopar head bolts!!! AUGH! I do not believe that Kendal got what he paid for.

Nothing like a guy who really knows these old MOPAR engines. These engines run on very fine tolerance; one little mistake can cause a major problems. This guys worth his weight in gold.

Wow looks like the seal area was polished and the knurl is gone . Show a crank that has correct knurling on it. Great detective work on the problems 🔎

About those rare left hand 340 factory header gaskets, you may want to get a machinist or die maker in your area to make you some spares since you now have one that you can make a pattern from. It may be worth it. The non original ones could be made out of stannous steel that would last the life of the rebuilt engine or even longer.

Been working on Mopar since 12 years old I am 59 all 383 High Performance Motors did not come with a windage tray

Nick, this might seem crazy, what would you think about putting a mirror in the drip pan? That way you don't have to look up.

@44:10 I had a weird urge to start singing "XRI-STOS A-NES-TI" When the candle was lit. Yasou vre Nicko!!

A bad engine build will leave any muscle car owner far from thrilled Lucky there was no detonation so it wasn't killed Will it be suitable for recomissioning and reinstallation? Nick is doing an investigation to see if he can avert the owners devastation When a builder uses too much silicone at Nick's Garage hands in the air get thrown The Gasket Makes The Seal you only need a few dabs you ain't gotta reinvent the wheel If you don't have oil splashing back on the crank it's a windage tray you have to thank With it gone performance won't be as strong and that trip to the strip will take twice as long Nick's Garage puts right what is wrong The rear crank seal is causing some consternation and the nurling on the crank is showing signs of deterioration It'll need further attention to avoid apprehension Silicone on the headbolts and the head gasket is way too thick No wonder this 383 didn't have enough kick Another thing Nick always checks is how close the pistons come to the decks Nick's Garage always gets my respects Nick's Garage has such generous warm hearted fans with all the Mail time conributors sending gifts stories and pictures to Nicks hands It's a pleasure to hear about their muscle car plans Thanks Nick and George

I am not an Engine builder in any way. I think as a untrained builder with the correct tools and manuals I would have built a better quality motor then the builder of the engine in this video did. I really like Fel-Pro gaskets and Gasket sets. I know I would have used the correct thinner head gaskets. I also would not silicone or glue the gasket. If I was using a Fel-Pro set I might not use any silicone. People or shops who do engine builds or rebuilds like this is why people like you Nick ar so important. Thank you for all that you do.

There is not much of a seal mark on that crank , mic that crank. Is it low compression because it has that much leak down? So that much crank case pressure? Not likely. I am thinking the Crankshaft.

Some engines and transmissions come out of the factory with only sealant today, they deal with clean and not oily steel and may have something to do with mass production. The repeat seal guesses, he keeps bringing it back to the same guy who doesn't know what he is doing, cheap parts, stability of the crank rotation or wobble in rotation, metal issues.

A slightly sharpened spackle spreader will easily uncouple a glued up pan. My guess is the block holding the seal half should get silicone along the sides of the seal retainer block.

Many years ago I was at Blue Mountain Chrysler and they replaced my straight six Jeep Cherokee engine. Theirs was the only Chrysler dealership that was absolutely excellent to deal with 😊

We had a 440 once that leaked profusely out the rear main. Turns out we had a marine left hand rotation crank. Those knurls were cut the wrong way. Turned them into oil slingers 😂

Nick, i went through this years ago. Knurl looked good but on study i realized it was reversed. The block and crank came from a dual engine marine use and the motor came from a Criss Craft and was designed to rotate the other way. It pissed out oil....Live and learn..... Threw the crank away.