Hello Eric make sure you express your gratitude and love to your Father. Mine passed away suddenly recently. I did not get to say GoodBye. ON a lighter note I LOVE THAT TRUCK! Can' wait to see the final results.
Talk about a walk down memory lane!!! Reminds me of my 427ci Chevy-build out of my '67 FOUR DOOR Caprice (sleeper!) way back forty-odd years ago! I built the motor with the intention of shoehorning it into my '63 Nova SS. Had ordered the Hooker headers, N50-15 rear tires, 12-bolt diff shortened diff......then had my first son......and, well, that took precedence over my "hobby". Eventually sold everything for rent and book money (college). It was great fun while it lasted, the anticipation, the dreaming, the scheming, the doing.
Hey Eric a little bit of topic but I want to let you know that you have helped me. My grandfather past away yesterday, true hero of mine, he was the one who passed me the bug of fixing things, everytime I went to his house he would give me a tool and we spent a lot of time in his garage, anyway, I've been binge watching all of your videos just to take my mind away, I know that's not the purpose of what you do but it really has helped so thank you.
I've had the exact same set up, had a 94 and a 95 chevy half ton, both with the 2-bolt main 350. One I had done up to a 383, 409 hp on the fly. Super fun daily driver type power on command, very reliable. It will be the perfect blend of function and fun.
@@ETCG1 I have a similar truck (95 GMC w/305) and they have 2 temp sensors: the one in the intake at the thermostat is for the ECU to monitor engine temp; the second one (between #1 & #3 spark plugs) is for the coolant temp gauge. Since the heads are the same on each side, the passenger side head gets a pipe plug in the hole between the #6 & #8 spark plugs ... unless you want to run a third coolant temp sensor to monitor each side of the engine separately for some reason. As for 2-bolt vs 4-bolt mains ... two bolt caps are fine on the street. And your upgrade to ARP studs makes them even better -- probably quite close, actually, to factory (bolted) 4-bolt caps. And while head studs do provide superior clamping force, they make it a pain if you ever have to remove the heads in the vehicle, and as you pointed out, SBCs have a bunch of bolts per head, so new ARP bolts will keep the heads on just fine. On the core/freeze plugs ... if the ones in the block already are truly brass, then they're probably fine, as long as they weren't leaking before. Yes, they should have been removed to promote better cleaning of the water jackets in the block. Truthfully: you should have removed them before sending it to the machine shop; I wouldn't necessarily pin that on them (but they should have known better). But there are plenty of ways that crap in the water jackets can get out of the jackets -- through the water jacket passages in the deck surface, most notably, and the small pipe plug(s) you removed above the pan rail -- so as long as the block was rinsed thoroughly, it should be reasonably clean inside. If you're not happy with the freeze plugs, though, you can always replace them with new brass plugs to be sure. It's a 10 minute job. That reminds me of an important item, since you don't seem to have a lot of experience with SBCs: there's one plug that is critical to make sure it's installed properly: it's a small one that plugs an oil galley intersection point within the block. Make sure that plug is in there and at the proper depth or you'll have insufficient oil pressure. Here's a video that shows its location: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jr5iDVAzxxg.html (He happened to tap it for a screw-in pipe plug, but you can get stick with a standard press-in plug ... they worked fine that way from the factory for 100s of thousands of miles in millions of SBCs.) One last thing: 6" vs 5.7" rod lengths ... 6" rods reduce rod angularity throughout the stroke, which reduces friction on the piston thrust skirt thrust surfaces. And because of the geometry they yield at the top (and bottom) of the stroke, you get increased dwell at TDC (and BDC, but who cares there?), which helps harness cylinder pressure a bit better, so they tend to provide a bit more torque and bit less friction than shorter rods. But for a typical street engine -- especially one that isn't being built for max power -- you're never going to notice the difference. I mean, you didn't choose a longer crank stroke, the biggest heads, the biggest cam, more compression, or massive headers, because you didn't need them to reach your power goals. Not having 6" rods is just like any of those choices: yes, you could have gone bigger, but you didn't need to, so chose not to. And when you're wondering later why it doesn't feel like it makes more torque, you already know the answer: "It doesn't make maximum power because I didn't build it for that. I used modest parts to make modest power." Good luck with the build. Can't wait to see and hear the engine when it's done and back in the truck.
Here's a good diagram that shows the hidden oil galley plug's location: www.thirdgen.org/forums/attachments/tech-general-engine/264911d1379111452-low-oil-pressure-after-sbcrearloweroilgalley.jpg Given that your machine shop didn't even pull the core/freeze plugs, they may have left this one in place. It's easy to test: just try to run a long, thin rod (like a piece of welding wire or thin threaded rod) down the galley from the main cap end ... if it runs out the other end, the plug isn't there but needs to be.
There are 4 bolt conversion kits with splayed bolts. Stronger than a factory 4 bolt main. That's what I would have done. Your bottom end should be good to 500hp,though.
Don't undersell the 2 bolt mains... they are still great blocks to the 500-550 hp level. Great engine project you have with quality parts. That is going to fun and very reliable for years to come!
This is why i like these old ohv engines so much to install on them and upgrade Unlike today engines. Anyway its going to be excellent when we see the engine all done.
A 2 bolt main block with main studs will handle 500 hp for years with no problems as long as you don’t put slicks on it and use a trans brake at the track. On the street, or drag strip, with radials, you won’t be able to obtain enough traction with stock suspension to overload those mains.
This is the same engine that's in my Buick Roadmaster wagon. In a million years when it wears out, I'll do the same. Oddly, the previous project the Fairmont has the same engine as my other car, a Mustang. I sure appreciate all this content so well aligned to my own needs! Great stuff. I'm really enjoying the #ETCGDadsTruck series and can't wait to see your Dad behind the wheel following the Fairmont on #HotRodPowerTour
I'm so glad you're doing a GMT-400 project Eric. I want to restore one of these trucks one day, and it's nice to know I'll have your videos for easy reference if need be.
They're nice trucks and fairly easy to work on as things go. Do yourself a favor though and find a southern truck. This one is likely the only example from the north that has no rust on it anywhere that I've seen so far.
my friend is building a racecar engine 13:1 compression... dome piston, aluminum h beam rod, forged crank, 210cc afr head, and good intake and carb he is aiming for 600hp so much money for the last 120+hp tho
Head studs are not needed on a mild engine around 450ish HP N/A.. thats my guess on power.. That engine will have awesome street manors, perfect for a daily.
Over 8600gvw trucks got 4 bolt mains. That engine should be making more power than 400hp. Full roller valvetrain and afr heads? 950cfm throttle body. 269 advertised duration cam? As long as your exhaust doesn't suck, you should have that easy. Might hit 400 at the wheels.
You've been able to get them in for bolt and tool bolt mains for a long time even into the early 70s and a lot of people like to put temperature sensors in that heads that's what that NPT holes is for
Happy Monday Eric. Hot tank without plugs removed, lazy. Grinding ring gap, so important. Chevy sb... 17 head bolts per give a five bolt pattern around each cylinder, simply the best designed engine since 1955. Awe, the smell of Assembly lube in the morning... Cheers
Hey, its not the worst. I have a great machinist in SC where I use to live. We had a tall deck BBC that we were building a stroker for. He ended up ordering, assembling and balancing an entire standard deck rotating assembly for it. When we got it all back the pistons were like .500 in the hole. I still take my stuff to him all the way from Texas because he made it right and I trust his work.
Aspra 🤦♂️ he makes and edits videos days and weeks after making. Who knows how long it was or how it was found. Vs the other guy worked on it and it was gone. So yeah your argument doesn’t really work that well
Well I didn't know you had another channel and by chance I'm just getting started on a 383 stroker build. It's going to be a long process of building while searching for what it's going into. It's not for me but by 8 year old classic car loving daughter ( am I crazy? Maybe. )
Looking forwards to seeing the build and power numbers. In the process of researching 383, 454 or LS for my 68 Impala. Leaning towards the BBC because it will look right, and I want alot of torque. Keep up the good work.
@@sparkplug1018 I'd love a 427, but with a wife and kids I am working with a budget of "As little as possible" . I realize the LS is an awesome motor, but it's in everything these days (for a reason), so I'm thinking BBC for torque and because it will look right. Having said that, they are getting a bit tough to find in my area, and the wrecking yards that have them seem hell bent on getting $1700 plus for 454 with 280000km on them.
@@simontallboy209 Since the Impala came with a SBC option too, could look at doing a LT1 build. Either keep it FI or get the carb intake for it. Those went into a bunch of different cars, the Camaro and Corvette had aluminum heads and 4 bolt mains in the Corvette block. $1700 for a high mileage 454 is nuts though.
Just wondering how long he looks at the carb from the Fairmont before concluding this build needs a supercharger. Going to be a sweet engine on its own though.
I have been watching this series of videos on the truck and at times I get extremely upset and frustrated. Don’t get the wrong idea. My being upset has to do with my not being able to show up and help you work on this. Not saying you aren’t doing fine on your own, I just really like the cause and wish I could help with it. Dads are really special.
You are correct the machine shop should've removed the CORE plugs, and all the components you got are goooood parts!! Very similar stuff to what I put in my motors. But you made a boo boo.. painting the block black?? Why Eric why lol
Hey Eric I'm with you on the removal of the freeze plugs to clean the block out it definitely should be done but it will be fine if you flush the block. I was watching a RU-vid video on Jeeps and the guys ending statement was "Stay Dirty My Friends " so He's kinda stealing from you he must be a fan ETCG.
I just went back and saw an older video. I really liked that music intro of the Keyboards. It was the video about why mechanics always drive crappy cars. Why dont you do that anymore?
I must have missed/forgot where you said you were stroking this thing. A good move, that truck is going to sound glorious, can't wait to see your dad's reaction to it.
Up till now he never really said what he was doing exactly. Only thing he made somewhat clear was that he was building the 2 bolt block. Personally for all the work going into it id have found a 454 core to work with, but thats just me. A 383 is a blast too though.
@@sparkplug1018 if he was going to change the engine or run boost, I'd not bother with a 350 4 bolt or 454. I'd just go 5.3 truck motor. But for a target of 400hp on a street truck, a 383 2 bolt will be more than adequate.
@@ExtraFungus Absolutely. But seeing how the Fairmont played out I think we can say that things will likely change somewhere down the road. Still going to be loads of fun to drive in the mean time though.
Wow that's some money there! 😊 I always find its scary seeing it all laid out like that - thinking of the huge shelling out in £$!!! (as well as the obvious excitement factor too 😉 ) Hope the build goes well! 😬
Good video. I farm some work out also. Shop that painted the freeze plugs should make it right for you unless there's just too little time before the Power Tour and if so, sometimes you just have to go with what you get.
The shop didn't paint the freeze plugs, I did. They didn't replace them like I requested. No, there is no time to replace them before the Power Tour unfortunately.
I understand you already into the project and probably already done, but that truck would look so sexy with manual trans :D Anyway, looking good! Here, I would stuff a v6 diesel into it, even with emissions legal requirements, we get 300Hp and 600Nm out of them, the main change is mostly intercooler (biiiiger) and aluminium intakes.
if the plugs arent leaking, dont mess with them I had a machine shop (in ohio) do a bottom end block build for a 1.6td vw engine, they pulled oil galley plugs out against my request. one year later oil galley plug behind the clutch popped out... oil everywhere.... one year later oil galley plug behind the timing belt let loose... oil everywhere... I HATED that engine and eventually gave the block away for $100
202s are a nice choice and AFR is a great brand. Along with many others. Dude, Chevy engines are supposed to be orange. And you need to replace those core plugs. Also, when has anybody spun a 2 bolt main? I've never heard of anybody having problems with a 2 bolt block. Personally, I would talk to a machinist and find out about a 4 bolt splayed main block along with converting it into a 6 bolt main. From what I hear, it's possible but, not mass produced Also, you didn't show the distributor. Or the intake. Or the carburetor. Or the headers. Or the plugs. Or any accessories. Where's the oil pump? And the pan?
Not for a street engine (in my opinion). The 195's power band doesn't start until later in the RPM range. Bigger isn't always better. You have to build for the application and in this case, torque converter stall speed.
things like studs and forged cranks aren't really necessary unless you're throwing a turbo on the engine. Then again if this were my build I'd have only replaced or upgraded things on the engine that were too far gone to refurbish. But still, very cool to see everything going into this truck.
Ooow forgetting to replace the welsh/core plugs was a silly mistake, send them a get ill card :) You could have opened that box and said 'it's spring time again.' missed a bad joke there. Ok ill shut up :-)
Eric, that is a sweet engine you're building. But I have to ask the question that I know is floating around in the back of your mind somewhere. How long is this actually going to be in the truck before you either build a 454, or a 4 bolt 350 so you can run a pro charger? I know you're looking at that carb from the Fairmont sitting there and thinking about it.
The engine is already in the truck and running (follow me on social media). I'm very happy with it and I know it will serve the truck well for many years to come.
@ETCG1 Was very happy to see those posts. Kind of figured you'd be happy with it, whats not to love about a 383? Very satisfied premium member also, keep up the good work.
Because I was sending it to the machine shop anyway and asked to have the freeze plugs replaced. It's common practice to remove them before putting it in a hot tank to be cleaned. Once I got it back there was no time to replace them, nor did I have the freeze plugs to replace.
The crankshaft is held in place with main bearing caps. The caps are bolted to the block. 2 bolt main refers to one bolt on each side of the bearing caps, 4 bolt main refers to 2 bolts on each side of the main bearing caps. A 4 bolt main holds the crankshaft against flex (crank walk) better than a 2 bolt main. It comes down to power capacity, 4 bolt main engines are capable of supporting more power than 2 bolt main engines.
