393 Windsor Build Part 6 One Myth One Trick When Prepping a Block for Paint 

You are a stand up guy sir.

Your honesty is really appreciated Thank You ! I enjoy Your tips please keep up the informative updates . Best Wishes and Good Luck . 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍

I really respect you owned up to something idiotic. All people come to incorrect conclusion all the time and never admit it. You're awesome - and real.

Saw this on Uncle Tony's channel. Cool to see a correction to what "seemed like" a really good extra step in block prep.

Stand up move. Much respect to you. I appreciate your videos.

Good job on the correction.

I start laughing when you first started this video using a propane torch. Glad you learned it was the concentrated heat using a flame that caused the metal sweat. Neat idea on using a pencil file to mark the masking tape for a clean sharp paint edge. Thats a interesting engine stand you have there. You need to do a video on your engine stand.

Hey Buddy, Congratulations on your first build AND your commitment to try to do everything right. Good Job! I have built a bunch of engines and I have a couple of thoughts you might want to consider. I always use a stone on a die grinder and smooth that machine line around the edge of the blocks deck. Then I smooth and semipolish the lifter valley. I do this to reduce the chance of stress risers and to improve oil draining. Those are a couple of good reasons and if you wanted to do the tape thing, you could with your technique or the razor blades. I don't do either, though. After I install the heads, I spray both of them at the same time. This paints the areas of the deck that are exposed... I do mask the intake area and paint the long-block before I install the intake. I also just 'sit' a set of valve covers on it to NOT paint the rockers and all. That's just my way of doing things. Whatever works for you and you are happy with, is the best way to go! I will recommend that you consider the deburring and polishing though. I look at it like this: If it doesn't cost anything but time, it's a great investment for keeping my expensive motor just a little bit safer! Take Care and Nice Videos! -John

I will use that ladling tip. Thanks!

Cool trick with the masking. Using that little needle file is a nice delicate way to make it perfect.

Nice save on the video! Sounds like your friend is a little sketchy. 🤣

again great information

Full kudos on correcting your video, and offering the correct explanation , it's the same function when bringing a cold beer out of the fridge into a warmer climate. Hydrogen can enter between steels and cast irons, being a very small atom, look up "Hydrogen Embrittlement" or "Stress Corrosion ", another feature on oily and dirty cast materials is the contaminants coming out on heating, a cast or media blasted surface has a very large surface area for its apparent size. Works brilliantly the file on masking tape, rat tail, or round files especially. Like the engine stand, nicely geared for ease of rotation 👌. Thanks for sharing. Regards John from the UK.

Just pulled my 302 from my 88 mustang today, gonna be my 1st build, ive pulled plenty of engines and transmissions but never built my own, i bought a trickflow top end kit and a holley systemax new upper and lower, my plan is to send the block to machinist and have it cleaned and bored .030 over for a 331 stroker kit.

You can lightly tap the edge with a hammer to cut the masking tape; works better than a file. I'd put the head on the block though and cut around it because heads don't always cover the entire mating surface, then you get an unpainted area that rusts.

Great tip, thank you!

Nice tips! One thing I always do to my blocks before painting is apply Picklex20 as a metal conditioner and prime with epoxy primer.

Any more updates on the 393 Windsor build??

But you're putting small filings in the block..! Best to use a hard poly or rubber mallet. NO METAL SHAVINGS!