I show you how I create 3D printed labels with nail polish. Music: Intro: Chomatic3Fantasia - Classical Rousing - Kevin MacLeod Rest: Jazz Apricot - Joey Pecoraro
I had several bad experiences, specially with clear color prints : the nail polish tends to smear through the layers lines and smudge around. Best workaround is to spray clear acrylic varnish first, to seal the layer lines, then pour the nail polish, and finish with another varnish layer
This is genius, I'd add Ironing to the surface to get a smoother look, but man you can get nailpolish in any color and there's a ton of automotive like finishes too! very cool, great idea and thorough execution advice!
A trick for the wicking: when masking acrylic paint, paint will often wick under your tape. The easiest solution is to use a thin layer of the appropriately finished clear coat, so that transparent material wicks instead. This will seal the pores.
I had very good success with acetone-free nailpolish-remover to remove the paint from unwanted spots. They didnt even mess with the PLA and i was able to omit the clear coat
I tried this and the results are quite amazing! I needed a couple of tries to not put paint outside the rails, but after that, pretty good. Thank you for sharing it :)
I just brush over the whole text with the brush that comes with the nail polish, let it dry, then clean the surface with an acetone soaked paper towel. Only the polish that went in the lettering remains; anything on the surface gets removed.
I wish I could see your results because that’s the naive approach I started with and I could never get the top surfaces back once the color had seeped in. Even with extensive sanding. That was with white PLA and red polish. Now I apply a clear coat first and use the pour in technique. It’s far from perfect as can be seen in this video because the polish shrinks down quite a lot on curing.
@@ArnaudMEURET White is probably the hardest color to make it work on because *any* tiny amount of residue will show. I've mostly done dice and small surfaces where any residue is uniform and unobtrusive. It's hard to get PLA fully cleaned off, probably because the acetone softens it, but when I've done this on PET (non-G) it seems to come fully clean and comes out beautiful.
I have been using a small brush and acrylic airbrush paints for this (i use those for painting miniatures). Will give nail polish a try also, i somehow did not think of that.
wow, it's not quite, but almost like the writer was aware of this, (not that I think it's a necessary thing to say, since the trouble of stopping a print and changing colors mid print is a hassle, and not everyone has a bamboo printer therefore this is a nice and viable solution) @@BradKwfc
that's a cool idea, I think could get a good result if use iron the surface of your pices that helps to hide the lines of print and improve the surface
Same experience here with acrylic. I think the volume of water in acrylic makes it shrink up when it dries. When wet it looks great, once it is dry the volume is all gone and does not look good at all.
Nice result, but that's plenty of manual work to do after printing. You could get a similar result by swapping filament mid-print a couple of times, to create a colored flat layer (or probably 2 or 3 layers) for the letter bottoms and then print 1-2 more black layers with the letters cut out. However, seeing the "Original Prusa" text on your printer's panel, I realised that it would be the perfect use case for the nail polish method, because it's been printed as a cut-out on the underside. The letter bottoms are bridges, and a different-colored filament would still have the "bridge lines" visible.
This works only because it’s black filament. With white filament, the polish seeps in and smears all around. Apply a clear coat first and don’t thin the polish! Or use thicker UV resin from craft stores, colored with food colorings.
High quality guide, thanks man. Just a thought, have you been considering some dedicated cosmetic nail polish thinner instead of acetone? I have heard that the acetone can have negative effects on some nail polishes as it is too aggresive.
100 Stück 45 Grad Gebogene Nadeln Stumpfe Spitze Dosiernadel, Industrielle Stumpfe Spitze Flache Nadel mit Luer Lock (25G) www.amazon.de/dp/B08YYPH86N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CSKC7M2NG489ZXYA001Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It's german but I hope this helps
I've been painstakingly brushing on nail polish for years.... WHY DID I NOT THINK OF THIS! Thank you! Have you tried inverted so the top will be smooth from the bed?
You can try acetone free nailpolish remover. Maybe there is nailpolish based on a different solvent? Model paint could also work. Basically if you can get through the needle of a syringe it will work. Maybe even water based paint if you seal it with clear lacquer afterwards.
Thanks! I haven't tried resin printing yet. You could try aceton free nail polish remover, or switch to a different kind of paint all together. Acrylic with water for example. If you coat it in lacquer it should be fine to handle without smearing.
@@fuzzy4logicI do multicolor prints for my labels; it looks a lot cleaner because of the way it’s printed; face down on the print plate. Looks great especially with a textured plate. I do it manually, a bit of a pain, but the inlay only has to be 2 layers deep (0.3mm).
I don't know, I don't print in PETG. But I imagine the chemicals in an automotive environment could dissolve the nail polish. UV performance might not be so bad.
That's what I've been thinking the whole time. This video was released in march 2022, Bambulab started showing up in the end of 2022 and it was all over for nailpolish and syringes XD
Way too much nail polish. With a model like that you can simply use a 0,1-0,2mm gap, smir the stuff on and then use sand paper so smooth the whole surface.
If you want a font this big, you need a lot of Nail polish ;) Also, because it's thinned down you need more to get the same amount of pigments. I've tried the sandpaper approach and didn't get a good surface finish.
Lol I have a 32 color filament 9D printer you people are way behind time lol, it's like looking at Cave men working on a melting plastic. My machine cost me ? Well I rather not say but I made over $30 Million dollars
