3D Print parts TWICE as fast with simple slicer tweaks. 3DP101 

Angus, I watch a lot of 3d printing videos here on youtube. And I just want to say: yours are the best! I've watched you for a while now and you always have good interesting ideas, low editing no jump cuts and they are just quality. Thanks for all the videos you make we out here in the 3d print community appreciate it and you might not hear it enough but these videos are critical to people like us. Sometimes i feel like you have a much more technical degree than just an industrial design degree, you're a smart dude! Be proud of the following you've created, and the good you've done for the community in general. I'm sure many others feel this way but for whatever reason have never taken the time to vocalize it to you. Cheers from California!

Hi, Thanks for sharing. There is a real problem when doing "small perimeters": this induces vibrations because the speed is constant so is the spacial frequency. One solution is to use a no-constant speed. I've worked in the past on big CNC machines, and we had the same problem (obviously not at the same level) when trying to go too fast. One solution has been to do a random variation of the speed when the direction of machining (print in the case of a 3D printer) has changed of more of 90°. This way, without any mechanical dumper, we have some kind "software dumping" [tm] and the quality is greatly improved. The speeds have to be choose to depend on the spacial frequency and eingen modes of the machine.

This is perfect for me! I've got a lot of things I'm 3d printing for Christmas and these settings are just what I needed!

Angus, one other thing you can do to add strength without adding time is push your extrusion width to .6mm - your top & bottom layers will print faster with fewer passes & you can get even more strength with just those 2 perimeters. If you normally print with Z hop & don't have any delicate shapes that may get knocked over or extreme overhangs that will curl up, you can remove Z-hop for even more time savings. The .6 width with a .3 layer height will not do overhangs past 45 degrees well - so be warned! Those curved undersides of your frame would benefit from a vertical "wall" of trimmable support (similar to what you did for the horizontal bridges).

I've been using similar settings on my MK3 for quite a while now, I use 0.32mm layer heights and get great results, print times easily twice as fast as the default 0.15mm Optimal and still way faster than the 0.20mm Draft as well. Figuring this out really helped keep the design hobby going for me - I was getting very frustrated with the iterative design approach and having to wait half a day for my part to print before testing.

Thank you for shortening my 2 days of printing to 14 hours. ✅

One thing to be aware of when using larger nozzles, wider extrusions, and thicker layers is that you will eventually be limited by the volumetric flow rate that your hot end can provide. For a lot of cheaper printers like the Ender 3 clones, you won't be able to squeeze out much more than about 10-15mm^3/s. However, with better nozzles, heat breaks, and heaters, you can push this much further, with some going well beyond 30mm^3/s.

Thanks so much for all the great details. I've been printing for a year now and I feel like you just filled so many gaps in my knowledge!

11:44 "Fooking paris man" Yeah I went back and heard it correctly this time but man was I surprised for a bit

I can imagine your setting for 'Stupid Fast' is great for prototyping, but if you're in a real hurry, you will need to select 'Ludicrous Mode' 🚀

I applied all your suggestions and cut a 7hr print down to just under 2. Brilliant! Thank you.

I love your videos. I have been watching for a while trying to soak up as much knowledge as I could for when I finally got my 3D printer

Super useful tip. I mainly print organizers and inserts for board games so the quality sacrifice isn’t really a big deal and this cuts my print times by 50-60%. Thanks!

I long ago settled on a 0.5mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer heights, and running PLA @210C for speed. Very seldom less than 3 shells, and usually at least 30% infill. My parts are strong and suitable for mechanical use with any minor blemishes irrelevant most of the time.

Hi Angus. The way your part is designed has a significant impact on the part's rigidity as well. I believe that that's why you couldn't break it apart. Your part design is sound, and will withstand the stress put on it. In fact, your part is so well designed that when you attempted to flex it you couldn't.

Thanks for including the settings for slicer. I used the most current version of Prusa Slicer, with the 3.5 firmware on the Prusa MK3 printer. I used PTEG (Amazon Basics) 1.75mm and the nozzle that came on the printer. I raised the nozzel temp by 5 degrees F. 235/245. The first layer was a little sketchy so I turned the speed down to 40% and then after a couple of layers set it back to 100%. Seems to be working well. My project was 1day+ with the draft settings, and now its about 11 hrs. Thanks for the video.

Never go full Joel. Those highfives can be powerful.

Wow I just put in these settings into my TEVO Tornado and all I can say is WOW! I have to crank the temp way up to prevent a jam! Thanks Angus!

Newbie maker here, this was very helpful. I've been wasting so much time on small prototype prints, it's getting disheartening. Thanks for the tips. Subbed!

Just got back into 3D printing (today) after my first failed attempt with the EZ3D printer. I tried your settings on my new Ender 3 Pro and they came out great! I honestly think I could push it further, but with it working this good so far I will stop here for now. It's crazy how the price has changed so much since I first tried 3d printing.

A trick that i like to take advantage of when i don't want to increase layer height is printing at 0.16mm layer height and doubling the infill and support layer height in Simplify3d. 0.32 is the highest you can go with a standard 0.4mm nozzle and that trick works wonders with lots of infill and support compared to printing everything at 0.2.

Anny, you didn't did the one and only thing that really makes the difference: to round all your sharp corners so machine won't have to slow down on every sudden direction change. There is a lot of corners in your model that you don't need for anything. Also I do extrude my PLA at 220-230°C and have zero issues with supports or bridges. And it makes layer adhesion only better. Also put on that 0.8-1.0 mm wide nozzle, this will make more difference than anything else if you are in a hurry.

Great video , I've been looking for a quick and dirty set of settings like this for similar tasks. Great job explaining in a clear easy to apply way !

I just bought my first 3d printer and the information available on your channel is really great. Subbed so I can always find your channel.

Thank you for making this video. it convinced me to try tweaking settings that aren't factory. I am often prototyping and don't need crazy amount of detail, but i do need speed. Just successfully printed PETG at a .3 layer height with a line width of .5 at 75 mm/s on an ender 3. What would have taken me 9.5 hrs at cura's standard quality .2mm layer height only took 5 hrs

Tried these values. Works as advertised. Thank you!

You had me at infill.... I definitely will be trying that cubic fill. Angus, another great tutorial!!

Angus ,I don't own a Prusa but I found this very helpful in navigating the frustrating world of slicer settings. This 3d Printing hobby is turning out to be more like becoming an expert in a specific field of industrial engineering than just "printing stuff". I'm certainly not complaining mind you. I find it amazing that we at home can learn something so complicated. Now that is the true purpose of the Internet. I have an Anycubic I3 Mega as I mentioned above.

When the video is so good that you can safely like it before watching 30% of it.

Use a bigger nozzle and it’s even faster. I do all my prints with a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32mm layer height, 3 perimeters, and 5% infill. Also, a bigger nozzle extrudes a thicker continuous line width, and results in better mechanical properties.

Very helpful. Used the suggested setting on my Mk3s and got a great print in 6 hours that previously took 40 hours.

I have been using this setting for many of my prints, thank you for the tip.

More tips if you are using Cura: use adaptive layer height so you can push the maximum layer heights a bit higher without losing as much detail on curves and holes, Cubic infill with several gradual infill steps (to leave it more hollow where it doesn't matter as much) without risking pillowing or gaps like going straight low % infill, and 10 or so degrees hotter temps. Pushing line width can make a big difference as well, just make sure not to exceed your extruder's max volumetric flow (usually 8-15 mm3/s on std all-metal heater blocks, half that for PTFE sleeved). Volcano with larger nozzle is better, obviously, but I tend to run volcanos on everything, regardless of nozzle diameter because the flow is just so much better and more consistent (and much better volumetric flow, up to 35 mm3/s on my setups).

thank you!!! I just got an order of 160 parts, that are huge, and a very short time to do them in! This literally saved our life here lol

The explanation of why it is way longer than you would think, for anyone who’s curious, is that if you double the size in all 3 dimensions of a 1in cube, it is then 2 in by 2in by 2in the area of a 2in by 2in square is 4in squared, so it increases by a factor of 4, likewise, the volume of a 2in by 2in by 2in cube, is 2x2x2, so 8in cubed, meaning the volume is increased by a factor of 8. The high amount of filament that needs to be extruded is the main cause of long print times, and the total amount of filament that needs to be extruded is directly proportional to the volume of the part. This still applies without 100% infill because you are still increasing the volume of the walls themselves. Hope this helps anyone who was curious! 😃

What a great piece of kit, ideas for this are limitless, look quite easy to use, look forward to trying one out

Max travel speed 200 for prusa doesn't have any negative effects for me, it's pretty safe. Also I change the min retraction distance to 3mm and remove a layer change retraction requirement, it makes prints much faster too.

Rectilinear infill DOES add strength in all 3 directions. It adds the most strength in the Z, that's true. But adds significant strength in X and Y too. Maybe thats a nitpick. Good video 👍

Dude, this profile is mental. Printing me a small spool for the sample packs. It's crazy! This printer rules

Such cool printers! I'm so impressed man. What unique creativity.

Do You realize... Your chanel is .... by far... the best 3D printing chanel on YT :D

To keep things accurate, I think we need a Full Angus to Full Joel conversion chart

Thanks for the info Angus, and for another Video ! Happy Printing !!!

Thank you Angus! I'm in the middle of prototyping a project, and this will greatly speed up the iterations. Hopefully, I'll have the final product that much sooner now! Keep up the good work.

Angus "Let's get started" Deveson

From my experiences, any parts that crucially need a layer height below .3mm are purely aesthetic, non-functional parts. I print essentially all parts on my delta at .32mm layer height, and am soon upgrading to a .8mm nozzle to go even higher.

Man this worked amazingly well. So glad I watched your video brutha

Even though it is 2020, thank god for this video. I tried to print a spool holder for my Tronxy x1. It took about 12 hrs with my normal settings, and this video helped cut this down to just 3 hrs!

Thanks Angus - and here are some things to maybe think about: Most printer frames are pretty flimsy - so much so that a relatively light printer head moving around with really no impediment to it moving is often causing flex and resonance. On the other hand, CNC router machines are swinging a full on router around and the tool resistance when cutting is very much higher. So lets start by making the frame of the printer more solid and able to absorb any forces applied without flexing and/or juddering all over the place. That theoretically will mean that you can jack the speed way up. The days of printer frames being made out of acrylic are going to come to an end. The next point may or may not be possible but here goes... I have heard that it is possible to monitor the amp usage of a stepper to determine the load being experienced by that stepper. If this is indeed the case then would it not be possible to monitor real time the loading inside the extruder? If this is possible then would it not be possible to jack up the temperature as you have done and use a PID loop to monitor the "back pressure" on the extruder (high back pressure means that the filament is not being melted fast enough) and if that is the case, slow the movement of the head down to keep the extrude coming through the nozzle able to lay down the optimum layer. Which basically means that the printer should always be moving the extruder at the maximum speed and because the machine frame rigidity is so much better, all the ghosting/artifacts etc should be greatly reduced and issues like layer adhesion should also be optimised. An idea of how to achieve the "optimum variable speed" would be to have an Uno monitoring the extruder motor load and adjusting the speed percentage setting on the main machine driver board on the fly as needed. If all this can be done then an optimal print will happen every time and the only thing that will change quality of the print will be the layer height setting. Just an idea... How about passing this along to Joseph? His guys should be able to make it all work - if it is possible ;>}

Dang! I've been doing all my infill at 50% because I just wanted it to be "better." But then, I'm a newbie. Can't wait to do some tweaking. Love your channel.

0:52 the square cube law at it's finest

That cubic makes sense, triangles and all that. Hoping to get a cheap 3d printer in the new year, so keep the good videos coming!!!!

I printed a case for Raspberry Pi (model 1-b) at 0.3mm. I thought it was nice to work with the 'natural' grain of 3D printed parts instead of trying to hide it! :)

My god he’s taught the machines to reproduce! The end is near!

This has been so helpful recently as I've been trying to prototype a fairly complex piece and had to reprint...way too many times. Great video and a lifesaver. Thanks Angus!

I have been watching you a couple years now i really liked your fallout printer. Thanks my friend

This saved me sooo much time on my build. I went from about ~50 hours in total parts down to ~24 hours. That's over 50% faster! Didn't save a whole lot on material but that's ok.

Any chance on the project files for that printer your building? I see reading below many have asked about it! Thanks for responding

holy shit these settings are incredible... I'm making fishing rod holders to keep my dad's truck organized during his annual trip, and this literally doubled my productivity... what was once a 5 hour print became 2 hours 35 minutes, and because they're simple with no fine details the quality remains virtually the same. The only thing I changed was keeping the walls at 3 layers, because those surf rods are heavy and will be jostling around a bit.

Thanks for these tips, going to try em tonight for a quickie utility print!

I love this project and can't wait to see your v2. Random question tho, what delta printer is that orange one in the background?

"ludicrous speed, GO!"

I'm new to the technology, and I really enjoyed watching your video.... You're really enjoyable to watch.... Keep up the great work !

Great video and explanation of settings. Will use this for some prototypes in the future, thanks!

Will there be files made available for that printer?? Awesome job

I started printing with these settings, everything has been ok except one. My extruder motor is skipping every now and then, is this fine? the print is coming out ok but it doesn't feel right. never happened to me before. I already tryed heating up the nozzle a few degrees, which helped a little but it is still happing. any tips?

Gotta say thanks! I used these settings, but limited all printing speeds to 100mm/s and 500mm/s acceleration for my PETG printing set to 260 degrees does a great job to quickly print things without it looking terrible!

Thank you SO much for this video!! I used these settings on my ender 3v2 and it works perfectly for draft parts!

Holy Cow Brother!!!! That cut my 6 Hour print job down to 1hr 45 min. It's not beautiful, but it's functional and its just a Scotty Mount for my Kayak.

6:10 I swear, i can see your hair changing colors as your flexing to try to brake the part lol.

Really helped speed up my printing. A short video on how to change the home setting in the Prusa MK3+ to the back corner would make printing really wonderful.

this saved so much time thank you! Also not just for test prints but loads of functional prints. i needed to print 240 time a print that normaly takes 13 hours now 3 hours each with still reasonable quality some slight imperfections but for a functional print perfect. this is done using ABS bdw.

6:08 you never go FullAngus ;D

Cubic, not exponential. (At first, I thought "quadratic". But it is worse than quadratic, it's cubic. But not exponential.)

Great tips!!! I have been printing infill at about 50mm/s this will improve my print time greatly! I also have been scared to go above 200micron layers, Thank you Sir! ~Comments are great around here too^^

Keep making nice videos man. We need them!

Gyroid infill in the newest version is so nice

After a month of viewing your videos I finally got a 3d printer. I hope it doesn't have issues

These settings helped out a lot, thanks.

Very informative, thanks for shedding some light.

at the 1:32 mark you show a Raise 3D with I guess is a 1mm nozzle according to the title description (although it doesn't look like a 1mm nozzle from the amount of extrusion coming from it). I have one of these machines and I have NEVER seen my models shake, shudder and move around as much as your print showed and with such crappy results from a print. I will say it looked as if you were pushing the speed a bit too high for a 1mm nozzle. Maybe I am missing something but my Raise 3d prints amazingly well and I almost always set my speed to 150% of normal.

I’m a new subscriber, so please forgive me if this question has been answered. Can you do a video on how you use interference fits to put pieces together?

I was playing myself on timesaving settings just recently, as I print a full size surfboard. I came along with very similar settings, only additional even lower infill at 6% to reduce weight even more.

wow you saved me from a mental breakdown here ahah, printing an ant farm thing for my brother and it was going to take over 9 hours for something that like 3"x3"x1" cut it all the way down to just under 3 hours, I shaved 6 hours off with your settings, what a legend (used Cura but same values to a point) Voxelab Aquila and Jayo PLA+ for anyone who may be interested bridging was fine, recommend supports for anything past 45 degree

Link to this 3d printer stl? Would be a great gift to give someone that does not have a printer.

I will certainly put to test your valuable insights but using gyroid infill. I think it looks fantastic and prints smoother without many accelerations and decelerations . Many claim that it offers a good ration between strength/material. Slightly better than cubic. Have you experimented with it at all? Edit: Grammar

I might be late but thank you. Now that i have my own printer this video helped me print stuff in general.

Love the videos 😍 sending positive vibes your way 😎

Is the Printer that you printed on Thingeverse? Can you share the link?

0:11 9/10 of the time?

That is by far, the coolest shirt I have ever seen!

As always a great video full of good tips, thank you man !

Have you tried Klipper on any of your printers? It uses a Raspberry Pi to calculate the paths instead of any 8bit board. This is another way to get a better finish on fast prints, since 8bit MCUs like to skip some paths to save time and keep up with the workload. In very complicated models (say round bits) this makes older boards even stall for a second while the mcu tries to calculate where to go next. Klipper takes all those calculations off the board and just sends the solutions to the printer. Much smoother, even somewhat quieter since the movements aren't micro-stuttering at speeds over 100mm/s. Worth a shot on older/cheaper printers (if the frame is sturdy enough to cope with the forces of that chunk of metal being thrown around quite fast)

Can you just print a shell then pour in casting resin?

Thanks for the encouragement. Keep on with the good deed. THANKS

You were given a good name... a "Full Angus" sounds WAY more, take 'em to the "mattresses", impressive than a "Full Joel". I'd be much more nervous if I were told that I was going to meet Angus in the back alley!! hehe... good on ya!

Is it possible to geht the stl Files of your Printer design ?

Doubling the size of a cube doesn’t technically increase the print time by 8x as the surface area only increases by 4x and the perimeter takes longer to print than the infill.

I've been printing 0.3mm since watching your video - I'm mass producing some little jigs to hold LEDs in place for soldering at maker fairs. I was amazed to find my stock Anet A8 works with the cheapest filament at 0.3mm *and* 250% speed! Next I think I'll install the Drylin bearings I bought to quiet it down. P.S. the PEI bed accessory I bought was not good, but smearing a 50% mix of PVAc (white glue) and water while at 60ºC made a good bed - things don't slide and come off easily.

As always very useful information, thank you!