3D printed 173cc 4 stroke engine! With cast aluminum parts! 

that flying wheel is familiar

Thought this was a Camden Bowen video at first 😂 Great work, very exciting to see this kind of thing with being done with proper metal parts!

You could use your 3D printed crank case as a pattern to pour an aluminum one. Just ram the halves up in the sand. I use "pistonium" - old car pistons from a local repair shop to melt for my engine parts. You could just machine those valves and the wrist pin from solid bar stock steel.

This is amazing ! you should just gradually keep improving the parts to cast aluminum until there’s no plastic left and the engine can run for an extended period of time

You should also use a bigger flywheel since thats quite a small one for that size of an engine. And you might wanna valve lapp the valves for a better seal

new sub. Finally found an interesting channel. Keep going 😁!

While ago i saw a video where someone 3d printed a piston for a full sized 2stroke quad and it actually ran for a few minutes while riding it hard. It did not even crack, just melted and lost compression. So i think if you change your settings/materials, you could get decent piston life for engine that you have.

new sub, cant wait for the next run with the new castings

Cool dude!

Could you make more videos about the engine please i like it!

New subscriber here!! this is the coolest thing I have ever seen. Well made video and so9mething I have thought about doing for a long time....keep up the great work.

you could use copper sheet to make a head gasket it would be reuseble and i think i should handle the heat better then th cork, i becuse i think when you get it running it would just burn it away and more updates please i love this project since i want to do it myself but i dont have the tool and money to do it

Hell yes you need a metal piston..... IDK why there are so many people trying to make plastic combustion chamber elements.....but if it could have been made out of cheap plastic the auto manufacturers would have done it already. Look at the kinds of plastics we used to have, stuff that was practically rock after it polymerized, and never has plastic been used in combustion chamber parts....theres a reason, yall.... And that starting fluid(?) is eating your plastic parts....and so will gasoline. The valve issue is another gotcha that trips up people playing with engines, they have to fully unload to seat. Thats what checking the clearance with feeler gauges is about in proper engines, making sure there is a complete unloading of valve actuation while staying close enough that valve timing is preserved.....also.....when those plastic timing gears go the valves and piston head are going to have a really bad day......remember to install proper bearings on the conrod where it meets the crank. There is a reason why cars use sleeve oil film bearings. There is a butt ton of sudden shock and pressure right when it needs to rotate when the spark hits. its gotta be soooooooth. Pay attention to ball (or better needle roller) bearing loading direction and ratings. It seemed to want to go (before the piston tried to go hang out with the crank). Need to get some proper fuel flow going on (smarter every day has a few good videos on carburetors, might be a good DIY addition. or just bleed a propane/butane feed into it and throttle with flow rate). At least use a pipe on the intake so you have a bit more of whatever you're using to start it with for it to run on. And finally be weary of people starting advice with "i feel".....mechanisms, like all other aspects of scientific endeavours, are not affected by feelings. Soft mounting an engine would not have stopped the head from blowing through. Its a hot, aggressive, violent environment inside an engine. Design for it. Oh, and stick the drill on the valves, pull em against the seal face and spin em. Mate the surfaces.

Atleast it fired, well it was smoking anyway! If I was you I'd get a piston for a 125 or 150cc gy6 scooter. It's nearly the same size slightly smaller, big bore is available. Capable of near 200cc and they are cheap. Unbelievably cheap. From Amazon. Flywheels and rods and wrist pins go through crazy forces. A 1 oz weight on a crank will weigh tons spinning at relative low rpm. I would make an aluminum flywheel, and get the aluminum from a scrap yard, from car rims. Or similar parts that was cast, stock car rims are casts. A big hammer and hack saw will make bits of the rim in no time. This is an aluminum alloy, designed to cast well. Also engine parts such as heads but get lawnmower heads , a recycler usually has a big box of kk lawnmower engines and similar aluminum parts. And brake rotors are great source of iron. And a leaf blower, small air compressor, with used engine oil can melt it. If it's too slow, make a HHO generator, to supply additional o2 to the flame, careful it can be hard on your insulation. Use a 5gal. Bucket. A couple 25' strips of stainless foil or even conductive carbon fiber , a microwave transformer with the high voltage coil removed, and replaced with 14-18 gauge wire 4-6 strands roughly 12-24 turns /wraps around the core. And a single phase rectifier, and a SSD( looks like a SSR, solid state relay) but has a potentiometer with it from Amazon, 500ohm pot I think. Connect the power cord in series with the SSD it needs to be mounted to a heat sink. Using high temp grease or thermal paste between, a 60volt capacitor optional for the rectifier, connect the wires you added to the rectifier, the DC out of the rectifier connect the capacitor (optional) the rectifier need to be about 50 amps, also a volt and amp meter, also optional, connected after the rectifier, 100 amp shunt style DC amp meter ,connect one wire, 8gauge (8 gauge can also be used in the transformer, it's not easy to get it in though) with enough turns to get about 6-12v. Lay out a sheet of the stainless foil or sheet metal, with a piece of fiberglass window screen. Or similar plastic it needs to be about 1" larger longer and taller. Lay the other sheet on top it need to be about 2-3" shorter than the bucket place another plastic or fiberglass insulator on both sides of the metal (all sides) then roll it up to fit in the bucket. Then fit a hose like used on a vacuum cleaner or washing machine drain to the lid. And run it to the air inlet of the blower. A variable speed electric is nice a gas leaf blower also works. It's not going to need full throttle.. use a thermometer in the bucket use stainless bolts through the lid to connect wires to the plates.and hot glue around the wire connections, with heat shrink tubing. Fill the bucket with distilled water, with a bit of lye stump remover. Just a table spoon or two to start with use the knob on the SSD starting low watching the volt and amp meter slowly crank it up around 2-5 volt it should be pulling some current back it off a bit a plexiglass panel and LED glued in the lid would be great for a visual of how things are going. best to add as little if anything to the water. Just enough lye to get it to work possibly use a fuse or breaker Incase the insulators break down and the plates short out.the used oil nozzle can be made from small pipe fittings 1/4" not, and a couple pieces of 1/2" maybe 3/4 or 1" and a ball or gate valve, but 3D printed parts can make it crazy simple and cheap. With a 1.5-2.25 exhaust pipe or conduit to connect the venturi/injector nozzle,and the blower to the furnace I want to build one from a 55 gal drum or possibly a 200 gallon oil barrel 5' tall 3' wide it may be 300-400 gallon, it's much larger than a 55 gal drum. Use the normal insulation. Then use 1/8" stainless rods to make hoops to retain the insulation. It should be able to hold a 20-40 gallon bucket , using a light gantry crane to lift the furnace from its base. It being three piece. A base with the heating bits in it. The middle. And the top. Similar to Kelly Coffield's furnace. Only alot larger. Using 2 3 or 4" blower ducts with the injection nozzles about 6" outside of the furnace possibly having 4 nozzles. The pipes one coming from the floor of the Base, the next coming from the wall about 45°-60° around the base,.. the base being about 8" -12" tall, with about 2-4" of insulation in the base. The roughly 48" center section guided by a 1.5" bar 8' long. Allowing the sections to move aside like a hinge if needed. Post add another 1.5" guide with a easy to remove connection to allow the sections to move aside such as the lid to add material. It having a 8" hole with 5.5" restriction may not be large enough to add material. A platform and rails on one side. Use a propane or map gas torch used for ignition, use a hollow 1/2" steel tube a few inches in front of the nozzle if heated bright red from the inside (outside from the air pipe) to start combustion and possibly add heat to the oil supply tuning just before the nozzle. A 1/4" copper line. About 1 minute +/- 45, seconds or so it's at a angle and the flame exits the tube into. The furnace so the fuel will ignite easier.. a 2 gal 1/4 HP air compressor feeding the injector about 60 psi at low volume, possibly use a cheap paint sprayer for the secondary nozzle. It should work great. The nozzle in the main being a small pipe plug with a 0.6mm hole or possibly use a carburetor jet in the plug. With a tiny. Steel needle nearly closing the jet. Forming a cone of fuel the nozzle being on the end of a 1/4" pipe with a tee on the opposite end with another plug the oil entering the side of the tee, with a valve the plug having a 1/4-20 thread and the bolt having the bit of tig rod welded in a hole drill in it the tip bring ground to a point like a tungsten electrode in a tig torch., it pencil. The bolt being about 3" long with a nut and washer to seal the threads with a o-ring around the bolt. And sealing when fitting inside the washer as the nut it snugged down it can be adjusted slightly. Only about .020" from just a squirt to all but shut off. The jet could be drilled out to about 1/32"-1/64" if the HHO poo produced enough o2 and hydrogen, it could be used. Along but is extremely hot. It can melt ceramics if allowed to. The addition of some o2 and hydrogen to used. Oil or propane will easily melt iron, only ba suitable crucible is required. Maybe a first project could be pouring a iron crucible then ceramic coat it to protect it from the heat! A 15 gallon 1/2" wall thickness would be great. Possibly build a 3rd nozzle to fit in the top to put the flame inside the crucible! Use a 2" flex hose from the blower. And a 1/4" coil hose for oil and air!! 🎉have a great day

Nice Video

what is your ignition timing? also fuel delivery is gonna be hell id get like a 13mm carb or maybe even one of those chainsaw ones. heavier flywheel might also help with the engine running.

is this inspired by camden bowen?

why dont you add a carburetor to the intake?

i am not sure if he has fuel supply. If he keeps a steady flow of fuel then he could have it run continuesly depending on spark timing and how long his parts are gonna hold. Not bad tho

You're stressing me out

nice man, good recc algo

So we're going to ignore that this design is essentially the same at Camden Bowens 3D printed engine?

lets gooo, hell has frozen over :)

i have no idea if this would change anything, but i feel like not clamping down the engine and giving it space to move like a generator would be good for it, so the connecting points dont stress the 3d prints more than necessary.

Im interested in how you made the head with all the different places to drill, how did it work out for you?

love the air purifyer in the background with than incredle looking keyboard