Jessy the technique to tighten up ball joints is called Sueding. Its common among ball jointed doll makers. You use moleskin inside the cup part of the ball joint to provide friction, you can buy it with a self adhesive backing. Alternatively you can even use hot glue and spread it around the cup, let it set then insert the ball part and achieve the same result!
@@iRiselyTech Heck yeah! I remember watching a video a few years back on how to tighten up an old action figure joint but couldnt remember what material they used. I bet it was the moleskin! Thanks for the tip! Going to try both out
I see both the amazing and the horrors immediately. This could be awesome and allow better things as far as actionable poses in combat that fit the 3d terrain like climbing actions. I also see that one player or a group of players trying to be perfectly posed at all times and the hours spent watching that too.
7:10 - An easy way to thicken a joint for a tighter pose on the 200% model is simple enough - thin layers of superglue. Just let it harden on the ball part of the joint before attaching the figure together if you don't want them in a pose permanently. If still loose, apply another thin layer of glue. Works on Gundam kits so it should work here :3
Clear nail polish also works well - at least for FDM printing - which, pro tip, is also good for creating a bit of a seal over the surface before painting, as paint can seep in between layers and spread out below the surface.
A old trick used in the action figure scene to tighten up joints is to use Pledge acrylic floor gloss. It used to be sold under the "Future" line. People in the hobby use it for applying a primer, or clear coats to paint or mixing them to get a semi-glossy color. And as stated, it can be brushed into joints and left to cure, It will give the joint some added friction so the joint is tighter.
remember when you scale something up the joint relief distance scales up as well! if, for example, the relief distance was 1 mm then scaled up it is 2 mm! which puts it out of tight tolerance. Same thing will happen if scaled down you won't be able to assemble.
A good advice is to print the figures without articulations, and then add kaiyodo revoltech or figma joints (ball joints) that comes in different colors. This would make the process easier for printing and will give the figures a high quality articulation. May be you can print the articulation (ball joints) yourself?
This is exactly the sort of thing I want more of from resin 3D printing! Detailed, highly articulated models! I'd design my own, but I'm simply not a skilled enough modeler... 😑
The first thing I ever resin printed was a articulated head I models for a custom Halo Mege Construx figure. It's kinda the reason I got into resin printing so I love seeing that a community is starting to form around articulated figures :D
This technology has a long way to go before action figure manufacturers even in a small scale need to start worrying. However Jesse DeStasio of Glyos and Toypizza has gone on record saying he’s going to be doing 3d printed figures this year to sell.
I really think it depends on the type and quality of figure. Imagine if places like hot toys sold STL files of the grunts, like the storm trooper, and to offset that, put more work into better and more awesome hero figures that you really only would have 1 of anyways.
@@TheAlexdodd its also about the design . i am a designer , so i bought a printer to bring it to reality. but , nowadays everybody buys printer to print models that somebody else made. it has no creativity in it
@@3dman563 I've been painting miniatures other people sculpted for 30 years, so it's quite the surprise to be browsing RU-vid today and discover that literal decades of creative output had "no creativity in it". 🙄
@@Eldurz bandai may respond by adding more ms joint and diecast metal to compete. Using this for custom armor for mg gunpla frames would be good (could make stuff like resin kits be put out of business)
You can tighten the joints with floor polish. I've used Pledge Floor Gloss on action figure joints that are super loose. Works great, super easy and cheap! Sometimes you might need a couple layers (with drying time in between), but it does the trick. I first heard of the technique on RU-vid from other action figure enthusiasts.
This is an AMAZING technique. Not for action figures, instead the designer could print posable minis on sprues. That would give us the option to create individual poses for every mini instead of being stuck with the couple poses that the current one piece mini model files come in. This is really an eye opener!
Peg systems, like Glyos are ideal for joints; some use Lego pins. If you can adapt the joints to a peg, you get more flexibility in printing, replaceability and repairability, as well as interchangeability. Also, you can both wax and / or oil the joints more readily with pegs.
Whew. Was afraid I was overdoing it with more resin stacking content. I’m also sliiiigjtly obsessed. One more project in mind that I have for it that I want to try and tackle soon
I really like this action figure idea with this pre support frames. I design most of the time on my channel anime figures and have sometimes "problems" to arrange my parts. At the moment I stick the parts just together, I think I should also do some research how I can do action figures like the figma's. Thank you for the video, this gave me more ideas how to design/ arrange my own figures XD
The stacked models remind me of Kit Cards which were all the rage on r/3dprinting around Christmas 2021. And as a warhammer nerd, i do love me some on-sprue models. Though if a warhammer kit was crunching like at 6:20 I would be very concerned. I'm kind of tempted to pass these around as little gifts at like halloween or in birthday cards and stuff
When my old GIjoe's joints got loose from use, and this was really a LOT easier on the legs, I would use Elmer's glue in the knees and bits of zip lock bags in the hips and shoulders to tighten them up. This did require dismantling the figure, which started a bout of kitbashing with me and my friends. This was back in the 1980s when I was a kid. Today I might still use Elmer's glue and ziplock bag bits, but if the joint ends are that robust you might try BLUE Treadlock and only a small dot of it. I specified Elmer's glue, although any similar school or craft glue will work as well, because its drying results is a conveniently shaped plastic "wedge" that tightens the joint. If anything goes wrong, like the glue is too filling or strong, it can be removed, but it will require dismantling the joint. This is also why you do NOT use something like Gorilla Glue. It is simply TOO strong. Although if the joints happen to be metal on plastic or metal on metal, you can consider it. I have not tried sealants, like your typical window sealants from a hardware store, but maybe...? I emphasis "Blue" threadlock because that is the less powerful formulation The RED is designed for use on Car engines and similar heavier metal screws or bolts into metal parts and structures and requires FIRE to melt and release the RED Threadlock. Do not use RED.
Saw the thumbnail and thought "why is Uncle Jessy playing with casting resin??" it is basically that same purple! Great prints, love those cards, really nice system. Those colored backdrops look SICK!
Post-cure you can make assembly easier by warming the parts with the female halves of the joints in front of a heater. Just makes the resin slightly softer!
I think the problem with 200% scaling is the tolerances between pieces are now doubled. It would take some modifications to keep them as tight as the 100% prints.
As someone who really enjoys 3-D printing games workshops intellectual property is operating because he and he enjoys the game but hates the company I really get a kick out of how many times Uncle Jesse said the word space marine in this video even though they're not technically THAT kind of space marine.
A smear of thin super glue on one half of a joint, and then allow to fully cure before assembly of the joint, will enlarge the ball, or shrink the socket, and will make a joint tighter. PTFE tape is also quite good, and is easy to remove if you use too much...
varnish, sticky tack or a little bit of resin there are a lot of ways to fix loose joints, pretty much anyway you can thicken the ball joint or peg will work nicely
if your joints are loose, hit em with some clear nail polish or some floor polish. let em dry, reassemble and voila: tighter joints. i do it all the time on my transformers. you can also buy 'kiki - fix loose joints' on amazon or something, but that's basically floor polish as well.
I build gunpla model kits and when we have loose joints, we go over the joints with some cement and let it dry so the joint is a bit thicker. You might be able to do the same with resin.
if you don't find a way to do fix the joint when they are printing, try this: after you've printed, cleaned and built the figure and if the joints are still loose, sip a bit of superglue on the joint and move it so it doesn't get stuck together. that should fix the joints to not be so loose and maybe weak if you put a lot of weight on them.
for the loose joints on the 200% prints, you can try brushing on a thin layer of floor polish to tighten them up! the transformers community has been doing that for a long time with great results
A technique i use to get stiffer joints on models if theyre to loose is simply dabbing a small amount of super glue into it and moving it around so that it doesnt glue em in place. That or i use plastic cement to do the same thing basically.
Idk if anybody else does this, but as soon as my resin prints are done I start the cleaning by spraying alcohol, then shake the excess, and then I either use a condensated air can or blow it myself until is perfectly dry. All this before letting any light touch the piece. Doing this I remove any moisture that might solidify inside crevices or small areas, thus retaining the sharpness of the details and all remains crisp. That's why many resin prints look puffy or rounded, with no sharp edges, cause moisture solidifies and ruins the detail. Just a friendly tip for the 3d printing fellowship.
The plastic modeling community can definitely help you out with those loose joints. My first suggestion is a drop of model glue or cement on the joint and then keep it moving until it dries.
Him: "for today's project we're going to be working with files from Tecco Toys." Me: "you have piqued my curiosity." Him: *shows mech-themed prints* Me: "... but now you have my attention."
I don't know if it would work for the resin mix you did, but for assembly you could probably use heat to make it easier to slide the joint in. It works for the 3D printed Godzilla accessories we do for my studio using resione's M58.
Yeah Resione ABS like resin is one of the best! Also another tips I learn from Jazwares Fortnite figures, put some Vaseline on the ball joints to have less brutal grinding friction with the socket. It's like greasing parts of the car when rigid grinding rigid parts.
Hey Jessy! These are pretty bad ass. As for the joints. You can tighten them up with a bit of crazy glue. Lol I know this sounds crazy but it works like a charm. Add a lil glue to the joint and keep moving the joint until the glue is dry. This makes the joint tighter. Repeat until you get the desired motion in the joint
You could scale the main body to 200% but scale everything else slightly smaller as you go down the limbs. For example, upper arm to 198% and lower arm to 195% to try to compensate for the clearances.
If you like the look of raw resin and dont plan to paint them you can get rid of (or hide) the white scratches on resin prints with a quick wipe with a cloth dabbed in mineral oil or clear chapstick. then wipe clean. though if it gets in the joints it might not hold poses as well.
I cant afford a 3d printer , filament or or pay for 3d printing services , but the day i can , The Large batman mech is what im making . Even refined the design down to be more sleek and with a better combination of parts and weapon accessories to put on it . Linda like Megas XLR .
If you can't find an easy way to thicken the joints you can simply add superglue and let it dry to thicken the joint, although I don't know how it may work with resin
i print a lot of tabletop minis, and one designer i follow does these card style supports as well, so they essentially come on sprues like store bought warhammer minis
I make toys and joints are super hard to do with resin as the resin is always degrading with friction…. Personally I use magnets but one trick that tends to work is a light coat of superglue around the pop in joint…. Adds that acrylic flex and tightens the socket.
You can always add layers to the joints your self like when you coated the fdm mask with resin. Add a layer of resin to the ball joint or socket and cure it then try how it feels. If not good try another layer.
It would be really cool to see 3D printable model kit accessories. If anyone has seen the Gundam Build Series it would be exactly how they make their custom kits. Imagine if Bandai partnered with a printing company to develop a 3D printer for Gundam model kits
Could these be used by a 5 year old? I've printed some action figures using 30:70 Tenacious:Siraya ABS and found that even with the Tenacious they were still much too brittle for kid use, although just fine for putting on a shelf. One of my dreams has always been articulating action figures that my kids could actually use. And yeah I've considered a filament printer, but I always wanted the detail of resin. Great video Jessy! !!
Not in my experience. The tenacious has nothing on a 5 yr old playing. Did some thick minotaurs and witches that he managed to break within a few minutes.
I would like to see you go even bigger and do a regular 6 or 7 inch action figure to see how they do. All the videos I've seen say resin is to brittle to do action figures. I collect a lot of action figures so this has my interest big time.
I just printed one of the figures from the video using Resione M58 and it turned out fantastic. The M58 resin is made for printing figures with posable joints.
I saw a guy that made Zip Tie action figures. Resin he says it was too brittle, but anyway he has TPU covers for the joints of the figures. Supposed to help keep them tight.
I use Elegoo's ABS Like resin. It isn't brittle and even has some flex. I think it would be perfect for these figures. I might have to get one or two to try out.
you could brush the ball joint with a small amiunt of resin and cure it with a UV flashlight to make them a little less lose (if the ball joint is the issue that is)
Hey Uncle Jessy just wanted to thank you , ive had failure after failure using dozens of flashdrives , all crap......until I used the ones you suggested the SanDisk cruzer. I know I'm not Patreon I apologize for that , but when I need anything I always check with your Amazon listings , someday I hope to support you , but things are not great right now. Anyway thanks for all you do and even us little guys benefit from your awesome videos........thanks again
