Started printing this a few days ago. Ordered bearings today but they won't arrive until the 20th. It will give me some time to locate other shopping items. Looking forward to trying this machine. Thank you for posting the nice build details.
Thanks so much for this design - best I've seen and can't wait to start it. In your materials list, what is the piano wire for? Is it in place of the torsion springs? Also, how are heels achieved if you can't crank backwards?
Thanks Mark. The piano wire is used on the yarn stand spring (watch the next video in the series). You can crank backwards IF you have the back half of the needles raised and get the cams under them. I was just trying to warn everyone not to try to crank in the opposite direction if the needles are down. Good luck! Steve
@@steveturner1447 Thought that would be the case with cranking - just wanted to double check b4 starting. Thanks for the info re the piano wire - did watch all the video's but it didn't click! Any advice on number/ size of M3's I will need - am going to order a box so just want to make sure I have enough.
@@markclay5347 This is what I got for the M3 screws: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072N7ZDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Unfortunately, you will have to cut down a lot of them. Steve
Steve/ Anyone in UK - any ideas for alternatives for the O1 Drill Rod and torsion springs as I cannot find a supplier in the UK? I did see that 'Gerri' who designed the slotted yarn guide was using a coat hanger (wire) and some hollow tubing for her ribber fitting.
Mark, if you can't find drill rod then try any metal rod that is 8mm in diameter. Just make sure it isn't hardened so you can sand it down if too big. You could try to make your own springs from music wire (forget diameter). Search online for "how to". Also, someone put a remix on the Thingiverse site to use a common spring from an ink pen. Good luck! Steve
@@steveturner1447 All Hardware received finally. One big problem though (sorry to be a pain) but checked needle clearance with the test block which was fine. Printed a few cylinders but all of them have slots which are just far too tight. I've spent 2 + days sanding (even with a Dremel) and it is a nightmare. What detailed settings for walls, infill and others do you have as I think it is due to a setting or two in Cura that is expanding the print and closing the gap? I've done as you said, 20% infill with 4 walls and .2 layer height. Just wanted to check before I print any replacements. Cheers
@@markclay5347 Mark, sorry to hear you are having problems. I used 0.2mm layer height, 4 layers top/bottom, 4 perimeters, 20% gyroid infill. I would send you all of the settings in a file, but I use Prusa slicer. Some suggestions (especially if you are new to 3D printing). 1) Try printing out a calibration cube (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865). They are quick to make. When done, measure with some dial calipers. 2) Have you calibrated your extrusion multiplier? 3) Are the slots good in some areas and tight in other spots? Odd that the test block is OK. 4) Not sure what 3D printer you are using, but I would guess someone has made a tutorial on it to calibrate everything. Good luck! Steve
@@steveturner1447 Thanks Steve - these are the settings I used. I've done a variety of cubes, levelling, etc and all okay. Don't have calipers - must get some. I'm still quite new to this so don't know about extrusion multiplier. I've read a few articles about it but still don't understand what I'm supposed to do. Yes, some (not many) slots are much better than others - most are so tight I'm using a craft knife before sanding. I'm using an Anycubic Chiron and have no other problems with any of my other prints but obviously, this model requires much finer tolerances than I am achieving. Just a shame tutorials out there just 'asume' people know what they are talking about regarding calibration - this is a nightmare of a hobby! Oh well, more research and lots more sanding. Thanks for all your advice.
I was so excited to find this this morning and immediately started slicing and getting a print started! Your explanations of all the parts and assembly are very thorough and I appreciate it. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to assembling things like this and you've done a great job of putting me at ease that I can make this! Thank you for all your hard work, Steve!
I have been dreaming about doing something very similar for ages! I am grateful that you beat me to it! I just ordered the needles and spring and will be printing this in the near future to feature in a video! Keep up the excellent work! (That was a lot of exclamation points... all deserved though). JB
i just got a ender 3 and plan to make this. i am first gonna try pla givein i have never printed anything. i plan to make this as a gift for my mother and mother in law and one for myself thank you for the files this looks sooo awesome
Hi Steve - Thanks for creating this, I am almost finished printing it and am going to start assembly here soon. I recently picked up a $100 resin printer and printed the tension cam with it and the difference in smoothness is remarkable, I am going to experiment further. On the cam shell, I found using Prusaslicer, that I could do variable layer heights on the more sensitive areas, like the ramps, so those printed down at .1mm or maybe even lower layer heights - I think I will not have to sand it but time will tell. Again thanks for the design and the ribber as well! Mike
Google is your friend. www.google.com/search?q=how+much+is+an+average+3d+printer&sxsrf=AOaemvLPk2IBMzdnFk3fPOBTneP8qRB5Gw%3A1639308608241&ei=QN21YdiNDpeDtQbakbHQBg&oq=how+much+is+an+avera+3d+printer&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMYADIECAAQDTIFCAAQhgMyBQgAEIYDMgUIABCGAzIFCAAQhgMyBQgAEIYDOgcIABBHELADOgoIABBHELADEMkDOgcIABCwAxBDOgQIABAKOgYIABAHEB46BwgjELECECc6BQgAEM0CSgQIQRgASgQIRhgAUJIGWLAPYNMXaAFwAngAgAFziAGRBZIBAzUuMpgBAKABAcgBCsABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz
I have been thinking about some sort of lubricant. I was wondering about grease being a poor choice. Once the grease starts collecting dust/ fuzz or whatever. Things will start getting sticky. Maybe some sort of Teflon spray???? Or maybe even graphite. Something that will be a dry lubricant, and not sticky. Just some ideas!
Whatever you use, just make sure it is safe for plastics. I have used teflon spray and white lithium grease. Here is a link on what Dean and Bean use: www.deanandbean.com/caring-for-your-machine Steve
@@steveturner1447 Super Good, Thanks! Yea, I was wondering a little about reactions with the plastics. I also wondered about machining the spacer ring out of teflon. (Maybe someday I will try it.)
So happy to find your channel! My hubby has two 3-D printers (filament and resin) and also a garage machine shop with a vintage CNC milling machine (he uses F360.) Since we have some equipment options curious if there any parts of the CSM worth doing in metal and if there are any changes/adjustments that should be made? Also, are there any specific parts that would benefit from being printed? Appreciate any guidance/advice you can share. I've been wanting one of these for the longest time but the price point got in the way ... so awesome that we can make it ourselves. Thanks!
Heide, the first thing I would make out of metal would be the upthrow cams. Next would be the tension cam (but this would be tricky to machine. Good luck! Steve
Hi Steve, I printed everything out and i have almost everthing together and i have noticed that when the cylinder spins its like it gets caught up randomly. I have everything sanded and lubricated with sewing machine oil and i have actually knitted a cylinder but i am afraid the crank gear is going to fail since it is relatively dificult to get it out of this hard to turn portion. Have you or anyone else had issues with this?
Nicole, is it getting hung up all the time or only when knitting? If it only happens with yarn, this is usually a tension issue. You can't have any tension on the incoming yarn. I have heard this is the same with the metal machines. Keep at it! Steve
@@steveturner1447 Yes, I need to get some cone yarn from what i have found. I have also noticed my stitches are very tight so I might take it back apart to ensure my tension can is at its lowest position to get looser stitches. other than the tension my prusa handled your prints very well! Im glad you created this for us
Not sure. If you made them out of metal, the weight may be enough to not require the springs. Are you having trouble sourcing the torsion springs? If so, you should be able to make your own from music wire / spring steel that is about the same diameter (.014"). Wrap it tight around a piece of 1/8" rod four times and make the legs like they are shown in the video. Good luck! Steve
@@steveturner1447 thanks for this! I’m in Canada and having so much trouble finding the springs. Found a place that has the music wire and I’ll give it a try 😃
Got mine assembled and it’s pretty smooth. Not sure how exactly to set everything all up, like the yard fender height but I imagine I’ll get it figured out. Was really surprised that it spun as smooth as it does but it did spend a lot of time sanding 😀
Mike - what settings did you have for the cylinders? I'm using Cura with 20% infill, 4 walls and .2 layers but the slits are just too tight and I've spent days sanding and am losing the will to live! Just want to get it all up and running :) Thanks
@@markclay5347 Mark it sounds more like a tolerance problem and a setting problem. I spent a good amount of time when I got my 3d printer calibrating it so it would create things the precise dimensions that are modeled. What I would do is for you printer there should be a way to calibrate it with some models, with my Prusa I printed cubes of certain sizes measured and then adjusted the settings according the the instructions. To answer your question, I used Prusa slicer, and literally used the default settings for .2mm layer height. I did buy better filament for my second printing of the cylinder (prusament) mostly to see if there was a difference in quality and there was, surprisingly.
@@mikecmp Thanks Mike. I've calibrated and levelled as best I can and the test cubes all print fine. I did the cube as suggested by Steve for tolerance/ clearance and it was fine too. I'd read somewhere about a guy with problems with the ID of a hole being affected by walls/ infill making it smaller and thought that could be my problem. I've tried 4 different filament brands - good quality but all still too small. Looks like I'm gonna be sanding for the next couple of weeks.
