Man this project with some higher res OLED displays would be super cool. I've been 3D printing for a couple years now, and the amount of possibilities this hobby opened for me is insane.
Since the cameras used in the project output standard analog (composite) video, the gain from higher resolution screens wouldn’t be enormous, as video signal resolution becomes the limiting factor. Also, although the cameras perform impressively, they are being pushed to their limits in the dark, and produce noisy images, limiting resolution further. That said, this project is nicely engineered, and looks even better!
@@operatorsartor6748 As an fyi, most small screens arent that great of resolution. The cameras themselves cannot do 720p either but what really hampered this project was choosing the 1.5 inch screens, as they have worse resolution than 2 inch screens. Checking against adafruits site: 1.5 in screens are 160x240 2 inch screens are 320x240 This is literally half the resolution. Granted, this comment is a year later and supply issues are mostly ironed out, but bear in mind a few $ more can go a long distance. Maybe somebody has better tech than this, but adafruit matches what else i am seeing available. Adafruit actually has OLEDs and they are hilariously worse resolution than these.
To prevent light spillage in a simple and cheap way you may want to consider the Oculus Quest 2 silicone cover, and creating a 3D printed adapter for the goggles.
Top tip. Use a sacrificial bolt and washer into the threaded insert. Heat the bolt, washer and nut assembly with a soldering iron and let cool before removing the bolt and washer. The washer aids in getting the insert flush, the bolt prevents thread damage through melting material getting up in there.
As a drone builder ive never thought of making some cheap garbage NODs ....this now has me thinking of making some pvn 7 fakies 🤗 got a few trash cams ...going to make something on CAD and make an STL file . Thanks for the idea
You can find blemished or simply a la carte analog image intensifier tubes from about $500 - $1500 depending on quality ( I see MX11769 Gen 2+ intensifiers for $350 right now, and mx-10160 gen 3 for $1200). It's quite a bit more expensive than this, but conceivably, you could get a "real" 3D-printed pano setup for the price of a high quality pvs-14 instead of $40,000.
@@GarySanderson yeah good point. Pano already has the problem of non adjustable diopters, instead having a set of interchangeable lenses, which are oddly shaped because they bridge a pair of tubes each. Any homemade solution for the lens would be less than ideal, but hey if it even worked kinda good enough that would be sweet
@@JustCallMeKoko please sell a whole pack world wide, like idk 500 bucks for quad nods n a 250 version of a 2 tube NVG, lots of ppl would def buy (me included)
@brandonho6174 500?? Shit if he builds em all by hand my man's better get himself a better profit margin for pano. I'm thinking once he gets a slightly better display and maybe some rubber covers for the light spillage I'd be willing to pay upward of $700 - $1k for a better display ofcourse.
I wonder about a highly magnified camera for looking at far things. Maybe have a toggle to switch from the normal ones to the far one, kinda like aim doen sights in a video game
The resolution issue can likely be improved if smaller NTSC displays were used. It allows better resolution while keeping the simplicity of analog. Also mount the pbcs in line with, and between the cameras. Stronger overall frame while allowing more flexibility for larger cameras.
I think you'd be able to get an immediate improvement in quality of the shell by resin printing or creating a mold of a normal print and injection molding it.
@@Vintageknight1 not for the ones he’s building cause it costs 300 just for the cameras for the quad nods but if u want normal double tube about 200 single tube about 100 assuming ur making them yourself
This is pure awesomeness kaidomain makes a very nice very powerful ir drop in for the 6p for like $30 you can get a new light body in 18650 or 21700 and the 7w 5chip ir drop in i built it to use in the woods but it just washes out and autogates my 14
Theyre great. Of course trackable mount with IR security cams can wifi connect to re-written apps like skyportal to gyroscopicly navigate and impose night viev cam over it (like on starwalk app code) onto a modified vr set with ar phone. The only drawback is that it isnt so portable because in this case headgear is connecting to external robot
There s one issue with NVG's. Temporary blindness if by chance the power supply fails. It happened to helicopter pilots back in the early days of night targeting helmets. The eye was accustomed to the light level of the screen but when the helmet failed it was a mad dash to remove the targeting screen from in front of the helmet only to leave the pilot night blind until his eyes became accustomed to the darkness, by that time they usually flew the helicopter into the ground. This was eliminated by using a system where one eye was dedicated to the targeting system while the other eye was left out in the darkness. As systems were perfected todays night systems offer the pilot the necessary artificial imaging of what was around him.
ey bro, im sure you know this but i couldnt see you doing it in the video of which btw i loved, thank you. i digress, the bungees on the helmet are meant to help with the flop of the nods. also i saw that another dude made a better mount for it/ it actually ties in all four tubes on the mount and makes it more sturdy. those nods are sick and looking to make some. thank you for sharing
Something to try would be getting part numbers for screens used in VR headsets with higher resolutions, but I don't know if you need a special system to drive larger screen resolutions.
wouldnt making a cloak for the helmet be a good idea aswell then you could make them in diffrent colors and it would get rid of the light from the outside 100% and you wouldnt have to worry about making sure theyre a fit for everyone?
bro can you pls link the stl files for the conversion of cameras and if posible can u also do a in depth video of how the wiring is done plssssssssssss.
Has anyone played around with using a faster lens? It should improve up close up performance. Not a photography person but have built a few telescopes, I think with how low the f number is already with the 50mm lens that just a little shorter fl will increase light gathering by quite a bit. Also, are any of these cameras capable of binning? In astrophotography some ccds are able to basically treat 2 adjacent pixels as a single pixel essential making it larger. You reduce resolution but it increases sensitivity and cuts down the noise as well I believe. I think that due to the displays being used you might not be using the cameras to their fullest potential anyway, not certain just from what I think I heard said in the video. But if so I think a decent performance increase can be seen.
1:17 clean your freaking hot end my guy, get at it with a brass wire brush and get a silicon hot end sock to put on it so that horrendous blob of plastic doesn't come back.
Kudos on your hard work and i hope they hold up and save your ass if get into a time of need. Other then that probably a good idea to get a rubber mating surface to block the lights around the screen to your face to help protect yourself from giving your position away by lighting your face.
is it possible to make the converging side of the pano so that the 38 mm lenses are tighter together? Ie one figure 8 shaped bracket holds two lenses, plus make the diverging angle slightly less, by about 5ish degrees? Is there a raw cad file available for the assembly?
What modifications did you have to do to the cameras to make them IR compatible? What about adding 940nm illuminators to the optics, instead of the 850nm illuminators? I’m wanting to make my own NVG’s, but I want something that I know is going to work for what I want it to do. I hope this makes sense to you?
It would be nice if someone just put these together and sold them😅. You should look into Phrozen Nylon though green resin. It's super tough. There's a video of this resin being tested and a sledge hammer was taken to a AR lower and the table was broken. The lower was good.
I’ve been thinking about getting around some of the limitations of the system. Would it be more comfortable if the enhanced video was overlaid what the eye regularly , maybe on the left or right eye? Kind of like halo 1
Making it a monocular would reduce weight/size and absolutely minimize the wires needed. I bet it'd be way smoother than using the quad tubes and be a lot cheaper/easier
This is cool thanks for sharing the info. I want to create a simple version of Night Vision with high quality color images. No zoom. It should feel like putting on glasses in my design. The goal is to make it so regular lights are not required unless it's in an important area. I feel like night vision is almost at that point. I feel like there must be a way to pull it off. Any input towards the right direction would be helpful.
