Make sure to checkout Galactic Armory and his wildly awesome videos and first showing off this crazy technique ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gJwgjBtXVOM.html
You can find woodfiller that is waterbased, mix it with water until you have a consistency of pancakce cake mix, apply with a brush, sand, repeat if necessary, viola! Waaaaaay cheaper than filling in with resin and waaaaay less fumes :). For those on tight budget we salute you ;-).
Seagram's water putty is pretty versatile and not too expensive. BUT a lot of the wood filler pastes can grow mold. They will also flake right off if it shrinks too much or dries too fast. It also doesn't add to the strength of the project at all. Sort of like adobe walls
I've been using this trick for a week now and I'm so extremely thankful for people figuring this out and sharing it! Forgetting the amazing cure time and less chance of messing up the mixture that you can do with the smooth-on resin. It sands beautifully! Its so easy to fill in those print lines and sand off the rest. Sped up my work time 1000%.
Wow! This is a game changer... thank you for sharing this idea. I have some mando parts I have been waiting to finish and this looks amazing. Top 10 3d print tip!
It works very well. Did a full size Mando helmet and it came out very smooth, then I used an air brush to spray a small helmet and it worked like a charm as well. Very little post processing. Will be using this method from now on.
Nice to see a big youtuber showing off a process i started doing over a year ago. Its amazing how easy resin is to sand when ya cure it quickly but not completley.
thanks for this indepth dive! I have also been toying with gluing and coating with resins, but never coated a full large scale model! cant wait to try!
That’s just awesome! I have to try this out - cuz I always have a little bit of resin left in the bottle that could work perfectly for this! Thanks for sharing
This is really cool! Been looking for a way to smooth my FDM prints, this seems to be the most promising method without the need of special filament or using ABS.. Thank you for sharing!
I just bought that same water washable resin to use for actual printing so I'm happy to see how well it performs with smoothing the FDM prints. Now I have something else I can use it for too.
I've done this for a few things in the past and it worked well in my case. The concept really isn't new, I just don't think people have talked about it much, so people don't know about it. I really like this video as a quick reinforcement that just trying something may produce better results.
This is an amazing idea. I've been waiting for the Elegoo Saturn to make a project I've been working on. However, I'm going to try this and see if it works. Plus, using the 3D scales and this smoothing method could create fantastic, fast, smooth scales
We were using the x3d like 3 years ago in a shop I worked at. Full Spectrum Laser did mention in the user manual that if your prints have irregularities that you can take a brush or tooth pick and add uv resin to the model and cure it with a laser pointer. I've been doing that to fill in the holes left behind by supports too and just putting the model under a black light for a minute before sanding.
I am also working on my own Mando armor so I definitely will give this a shot. I think I need to do a bit more research on any other recommended resin bottles I should buy to do this method.
I use the Resin as well. Also i use Vinyl Spackle to smooth prints and as a gap filler. It dries pretty fast and super easy to sand.. A small half pint container last for a long time..
lol done this for years. i hated xtc as it was always to thick and hardened to fast and was also using fdm still back then. i tend to use a brush rather then a sponge as it tends to leave micro bubbles. with a brush i find you can get a good clear coat and can build the layers up and when ready cure. then forgot to do a video about it as i just went fully into resin printing and just never used fdm since. but always suggested it on the fdm groups and in live streams. glad someone has done a video and also shown other ways to smooth prints with the plus and minus to using them. i tended to just use what was left in the bottles when they are nearly empty. thanks for sharing jessy. also on a side note you should always wet sand any resin. and wear a mask jessy. :)
I’ve done this a few times now. Works pretty well. But... Be watchful for runs and drips. It can also fill details so work in thin layers and sneak up to the level you need slowly to avoid filling details. Still make sure to cure it and wear PPE.
Great Video but guys please use gloves and respirators when sanding resin. When I see this as a chemist and developer of photopolymers I imidiatley see people get a anaphylactic shock , so please be a bit more careful.
You’re a fn genius I thought of this hidea on accident but never came back to it. Hell even using it as glue to connect parts together and not lose color as well!!!
Mind Blown. Last summer I made a predator mask with some tricky spots to smooth out. It took hours of sanding and filling over and over. I'm defentaly trying this on my Bob's Fett project I have coming up.
I guess it may because I started with a Resin printer, but this was the first thing I thought of for smoothing out my FDM prints once I finally picked up an FDM printer. I just figured I never saw videos on it because it was an 'obvious' solution for anyone who had resin already on hand. Works great for quickly getting those FDM prints up to snuff for silicone masters and much easier/better to work with than those combo primers in my not so humble opinion. And as you mentioned, very little waste as the excess resin can be reused.
Don't forget to use a respirator mask when curing resin as well as when you sand it. Wetsanding would probably give an even smoother surface as well. ^^
This guy never uses enough protection. He legit might affect his health considering how much he prints without protection. If theres any resin in my 3d printing room out of a container I always have my respirator on.
Hello Uncle Jessy! Love your channel! I'm new to printing for the most part and recently printed out a Mandalorian helmet on the Neptune 2. It's assembled and I filled gaps with wood filler but saw this video and thought it would be awesome to try. Do you think it will affect the wood filler or do you think I should be ok to brush some resin on to help smooth it? Thanks in advance and keep the videos coming!
I was wondering if the fdm would crack since resin sometimes makes it crack and was surprised it didn't but dry sanding resin with such low grit is terrifying lol
I do a similar thing with clear resins i want super clear. Instead of trying to buff and shine i dip the object back into some clear resin and it becomes alot more transparent. It softens edges, but it goes from cloudy to completely clear
Yep, that's because the frosty effect on the surface is caused by the tiny layer lines of the print, to be clear the surface has to be smooth, the same way ice becomes clear as it melts.
Love the idea of this will have to try it on some items I have to clean and fill. Did you put your spray can in warm water before you sprayed for a few miniutes has that helps me in cold weather.
Actually did this with my warhammer and gundam stuff. Sometimes there's a small chipping hole when cutting, so I fill in some resin and cure it. Quite effective but more hassle compare to tamiya epoxy putty
great explanation and video. Galactic armory used to talk use fiberglass resin on the interior of his helmets to give them strength and stability. I bought a bunch and used it on my Commander Cody helmet. Worked like a charm. Now after watching both videos about resin, I wonder if i can use fiber glass resin to smooth out my print. What do you think? can you sand and paint fiberglass resin like 3d printing resin?
I have also tried painting on 3M Acryl-Green spot putty which has been dissolved in acetone to make a thin liquid. The acetone evaporates and leaves the putty in the gaps ready to sand.
Same technique used by resin mold crafters with a low quality demolding and appreciate you hitting the broadcloth of techniques hobbyists use in your breakdown.
one thing i like about this idea is that you can brush it on, then cure it in a few seconds. if it has to sit for 20+ hours you may wind up with any cup like areas being filled with resin; i think you called it pooling. but this way i can brush it on, make sure everything is nice and smooth, then just blast it with the spicy light.
