You can make any size speaker work, just depends on the adapter you make to for the speaker to fit. If you're an audiophile 8", regular sound guy, 6" with an external tweeter, less fancy 6-1/2" if youre going 8" you'll want a 6" in there and tweeters and a good amp to run them as well you've used a soundmatting throughout the door.
Just decided to upgrade this week since I have the time (thanks COVID!)...get yourself some panel pry tools to remove the door panels, so much easier ..and you can buy speaker brackets that replace your factory one so you can pitch the whole speaker in the trash.I bought my new speakers from Crutchfield and they provided the brackets and plug and play wires for free! saves so much time!
Thanks for the video - used it to diagnose a torn speaker surround causing seriously annoying rattles on my 2015 s Grand Touring. Saved a ton by replacing it myself.
Thanks for the video. It helped me a lot to replace the speakers in my MAZDA 3 2015. I had to revise some parts of your procedure; for example, the speakers I bought almost perfectly fit to the Mazda 3 Speaker Box after removing the old speaker. Thus, I directly drilled the holes without cutting the plastic as you did.
Yes! I listen to all metal all the time, and my front passenger speaker rattles like crazy with bass heavy songs... I needed this to figure out how to open the door up, so thanks
@@6520G I even noticed a little bubbling under the paint and some rust near the speaker , I wonder if moisture leaks in and affects the factory adhesive
The Bose front door speakers on my 2015 Sport were rattling when bass kicked in. Just followed this guide and repaired the bass by glueing it with CT1. Had to replace 7 of the clips which broke. Total cost of repair was £2, and took 40 minutes. The bass speaker had peeled away, and just needed re-attaching. Quote from a Mazda dealer in Shrewsbury was £450 for the two speakers, and £170 Labour. Only wish I was on £170 for 40 minutes work. Yes, I know they have overheads, but that is scandalous
Installing components could be a little more tricky since you have to find a place for the crossover (well, inside the doors there is a lot of space, the only issue is that you have to isolate it properly to avoid water and moisture from ruining the device) and routing tweeter cables could be problematic. There is no problem with the signal since It comes at full range from the oem amp (oem tweeters have their own small crossover). Ive read that infinity ref 6500cx fits perfectly on the dash tweeter hole and on the doors mount. Infiniti 6502ix coaxials go well on the rear doors. With the bose sound system the job could be a lot more problematic, you better not touch it.
Bonus points for the cute pup! Thanks for the video. I took the door panel of to discover the same rust problem. The metal rusts and then the paint flakes off. The back of the cone is attached to the paint. On my 2016, it's a 9" and it's held on with 4 screws. I'm debating whether to just buy new speakers and not have to deal with this again.
And btw - I scraped the rusty paint off as best I could with a little scraper, then I used some clear silicone around the perimeter of the speaker and up onto the metal so reattach the rubber diaphragm to the metal frame. Let it cure for about 18 hours and it sounds great. No more crackling or random booming. Just saved about $400 in new speakers. So happy.
If only a few broke then it may not be an issue, but if a considerable number of them broke then you may want to order some replacements if they have them.
Nice video Bob. How is the sound quality now? Did you replace the rear speakers as well? Also, you're pretty quick with a screwdriver and socket wrench. Why hasn't NASCAR or Indy discovered you yet!? LOL!
Thanks! It sounds a million times better. So much clearer with a lot more punch. I did replace the rears as well with the same speakers. As for the screwdriver/socket wrench comment...Haha!
bob the rear speakers are in a smaller space with only 3 mountings vesus 4 in the front , can u get a spacer adaptor for the rears as u can the fronts ? id rather do that then modify the existing speaker
Thanks for this vid. I want to sound deaden my Mazda and wanted to know the spots to get the panel off. I heard it also boosts sound quality so that's a plus I guess.
Thanks! And I completely agree. In my '06 Explorer you just unscrew the old speakers and screw the new ones in. I don't know why they all can't be that easy.
Bob, did you have clearance issues with the back speakers? I just ordered 2 sets of replacements for my 2017 and Crutchfield says that the rear door won't accommodate them. I have some hope though as I put in the model number you said you used and Crutchfield gives the same red flag. It says the clearance is off by .212 inches.
Hey guys look into NVX speakers they have different levels of speakers like the V is better than the N series you can also see some guys testing them and the word is they sound better once they are broken in and I have read that they work good even if not being pushed by a amp. I bought a set of 6X9 speakers I’m going to compare one of them to some Cerwin Vega speakers I have in my truck.
Just wanna know what's rattling inside my front door panels. Worse if I roll the window slightly down. If I push on the door panel the rattling and vibrations mostly stop.
Summary: below is DETAILED instructions (in simple terms) for MAzda 6 Atenza 2015 sedan bilateral front speaker rattling DIY fix + recalibration AUTO window function R>L front speaker "death" rattling - got both glued myself since warranty ran out (should have used silicon in hindsight) - NOTE: if your warranty is running out and you have bose speaker mazda - pump up your voume (especially Bass) and listen out for the speaker rattle - then point it out for both speakers (even if you can only hear one side) & get them replaced with warranty (and then still silicon them later DIY if you still have the car) Tools: - philip screw driver - simple small palstic prying tool - hands (with gloves if you love them) - silicon (or super glue) Extra's - extra plastic 'nuts' (that you use brute force to pull door open and break) - you dont really need to replace them - new LED bottom door light (in case you break them or you just want an upgrade) - Tips for 2015 Maxda 6 Atenza sedan self speaker fix: - pry away latch palstic cover - unscrew philips nut - pry away soft rubber mat next to window controls - unscrew phillips - brute/gentle force starting with bottom front, then boottom back work up - take away little plastic at corner near mirror and then gently lift up door panel off window 'ledge' with force - note very high cahnce you will break a few plastic stay 'nut' - you can buy a few replacement in anticipations (not really required though) - CARE - keep dppr panel in place once it comes off - x2 wires securing door to main frame - push in latch around lock mechanism and it will push through (replace it same way later) - push upwards window controls and it will dislodge (replace it same way later) - then press in plastic locking device prior to pulling out white wires - SPEAKER - press in button and pull out wire - unscrew x4 philips & pry away gently - take speaker to a more comfortable location table (scrape off rusty bits and flaking pain) - use preferrably silicon material (or super glue if you're too lazy & an idiot like me) & focus on parts of corrosion that have come off - as per video - use extra all around & clamp with simple clamps (few minutes atleat - then you can place back inside and try not to use speakers overnight for full drying time - be patient Reverse: - screw back speaker / speaker wire pops in - use bottom door light as 'foooting' - change it while you're there / incidentally or accidentally break it if required (can be changed without taking door off later) - pop back latch (line up screw holes) / ensure the window control wire pops through 'hole' - mirror corner palstic nut align & hang over window ledge and then 'thump in plastic nuts all around (dont bump speaker grill itself - can breakl) - connect window conrol wore - pops in and then slide in window control paneltowards mirror - pops in - pop back small plastic near mirror - screw back latch screw adn mid door screw and cover with respective palstic/rubber pieces CHECK: - bottom door light works - replace it later with pry too removing clear plastic covering as required - WAIT overnight or atleast few hours prior to testing your all new (glued....) speaker! - IF WINDOW AUTO controls DO NOT WORK you simply need to calibrate it (no, you dont need to painstakingly take the whole door off again) - manually: lower window from up all the way down adn then all the way up and CONTINUE holding button upwards for about 3-5 more seconds - calibration donw (I took the whole door off, cried a little, watched a dozen more youtube videos before realizing this...) STORY (boring parts) I just had the same problem with my 2015 Mazda 6 Atenza - unfortunately my warranty had run out... from watching all these videos I knew what the problem was, hence tried my luck and took it into a Mazda Dealer (not where I bought it from) and got front right speaker 'inspected' for diagnosis for AUD$145 per hour (nice dealer mechanics were fair and only charged me AUD$35). They tried lodging in a "Goodwill" request (since out of warranty, just >5yrs)... This unfortunately failed. Rang Mazda AU directly - plainly said its not covered as warranty is over and didnt really help much. Hence, I simply used the super glue I had in the end.... then noticed the passenger side was also impacted... fixed that too - now all good. Just gotta see how long super glue lasts (perhaps should have used silicon in hindsight - I was just impatient) THIS IS PROBABLY GONNA HAPPEN TO MOST MAZDAs with the same BOSE speaker system - poor design / humidity - also went into an automobile AV company - insted of swindling me they outright told me that if its a BOSE speaker, most aftermarket speaker repalcement wont be compatible with the main system (unless I virtually change EVERYTHING AV related - $$$ (this started off with a single line and before I knew it...)
I have a mazda 3 2015 sport nav and I have had the drivers side door changed . My old had 3 electrical connectors on the door , but the nee door has 2 like the door in the video. What is the 3rd connector for? Thanks
Hi Bob. Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I'm doing the passenger side with one power connector to the door panel. Is there meant to be a release tab on the connector or can I just yank it out? It seems to be attached quite tight and didn't want to damage any wires with too much force. Can't see a release tab
i have the 2015 madza 3i sport hatchback im replacing the 2 front doors speakers to the morel maximo 6 6.5 and also a 4 channel amp and 2 12 inch and a mono block amp and the twk-88 so my question is do tap in behind the radio or the tuner located on the passager side kick panel and if so what color are the speaker wires pos/neg for the left and right door speakers this the loc ill be using is the NVX XLCA2 my radio is the infotement system
i could not find a wire diagram that told me which colors were positive and negative or my 2016 3. it is true what he said in the video. one side is always going to be positive and one side always negative for all doors. but based on a video i saw on using a voltage reader to figure out which one was postive, i found that when you are looking at the speaker while it is still mounted and screwed into your door, the left wire/terminal will be positive, so you when turn the speaker around like he had it in the video. it was be the opposite of what he said. so i dont know if i got it wrong or he did lol. but i went ahead and put em back in that way.
At this point I don't really remember what the stock speakers were like other than being terrible, but I can certainly say the new ones are much punchier.
Did you add an amp to the door speakers?? And what about the other speakers found on the dashboard?? You have replaced them also so that they can handle the amp power??
So I installed 4x Kicker DSC650s and I fear I need to add an amp in order to make them sound really good, I think they are severely under driven. Which means that I have to run all new wiring because I'm not sure the stock wiring will handle anything more than whats already thrown at it. Kinda really regretting doing any of this, I feel like I should have just installed a sub and called it a day. Now I'll install a 4 channel amp and in the end of it all probably still add a sub 😀
thanks for the video. should be the same for the mazda 6 i have. crutchfield stated to drill holes when replacing these which i dont want to do. Id rather do this. thanks again. wish video showed more the speaker difference from old to new ones. otherwise good
Are you saying you wanted to hear the difference between the two speakers or did you want to see them side by side? I did take before and after videos of the sound quality of the speakers, but it didn't turn out as well as I'd have liked. All I can say is the new speakers are much clearer, punchier, and fuller sounding. The stock speakers were some of the worst stock speakers I've heard.
at the first step you used long nose pliers to remove the trim behind the inner door handle, all you have to do is pull the door handle open and you will have a bigger space behind to pop it out. easy
Hello, Bob! I have a question for you: "Why did not you do a wooden podium, because the tree better sound than from plastic?". Sorry in advance, I write with the help of on Google Translate :)
Hello, Alex! I think I get what you're saying - I used the plastic speaker mount because that's what came with the car so it was the easiest way to mount the new speakers.
Alex Kuprienko i believe that the oem plastic housing, although plastic and simple have better acoustical properties than a wooden mount made by an amateur.
Can you do a video on how to remove the chrome trim on the out side of the door that lines under the Windows. I want to paint it black but I don't know if it's removed from the inside once the door panel is off or if it's removed from the outside of the car
I don't really have any reason to take them off so I don't think I'll be able to make a video on that, but I'd think they could just be popped off. Just go slow if you try it.
The rotary tool was one I got at Target years ago (I don't recall the model) and I actually misplaced it, so I bought this one off Amazon recently and it seems to work just about the same: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8DXKXS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And the speakers sound great! Clear and punchy.
...the rear door speakers is 1" tall and the front ones is 2" tall, mounts are different because in front it can fits a 9" speaker (like the bose version have a woofer flat)
+Abdulrahman Al-Ghamdi They are 6.5" speakers. In my case they are Kicker 41DSC654 speakers. I used the same size in all 4 doors. The bracket/mount is slightly different in the rear (it has 3 bolts instead of 4), but these speakers fit all the same.
I didn't have any problems. The biggest pain was getting to the screws holding the mirror on, because you have a very small hole to get through. I was able to reach them with a ratchet, but I needed my wife to put on the new nuts because I just couldn't reach where they needed to go.
You can use a screwdriver, but preferably a plastic pry tool as you can scratch the paint pretty easily using a screwdriver (though it's not a huge deal since it's covered by the door panel, but nonetheless...). They are kind of annoying to get off so just take your time.
This is very good. I just ordered some 6 3/4" Kenwood excelons as the non-Bose system is marginal at best-especially the front speakers where the voices get distorted when I try to use any good amount of volume. I'm not gonna do a lot as I'm a bit older now, just want better sound. Hopefully I will not need to add a mono amp and one 10" sub
+Bob I replaced the front door speakers not too long ago. A bit better, but I'm still hearing some distorted sound up front. Probably gonna have to replace the tweeters in the dash-which i did NOT want to do. I may do that in the fall when the temperature is no longer set to death. Lol
Got the rear speakers and the dash speakers replaced (not as much of a pain as I remember-but still a pain) this week. A lot better. Just missing low bass. Since I do not want to go "big" like I use to when I was younger, I'm just gonna go with a 10" Rockford powered sub. Should be done after that now that I'm use to the head unit.
Just go as easy as you can when removing the door panels. Even if you break some the door panel will still fasten securely again. And I imagine you'd be able to buy some more if you wanted to, but I haven't looked into it.
I have a pair of MB Quart 6.5" splits from my old car that i want to install in my new mazda but the crossover is quite bulky. Do you suppose there would be much room inside the door panel for the crossover box?
+LightDivision Check out this thread: mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/112618-speaker-upgrade-2015-mazda3-gs-non-bose-6-speaker-system.html That guy did his with components and he said there was plenty of space for the crossover.
Matt Houston I think I saw it on a forum. I'd imagine it's the same for you, but even if it isn't it won't damage the speaker though it won't sound right. Just test it before you put the speaker back in the door.
Hi, I was thinking of doing this to my mazda 3, I was wondering what the ohm rating for the stock speakers is, if you know. I don't want to ruin my cars amp or speakers by choosing the wrong ones.
hi guys i wanted to add that i have a mazda 3 2017 model hatch , i have a contact in JB HiFi and i wanted to install a amp to boast the volume of the standard system , purchased the amp , RCA's and wire we needed only to find out from the installer that the existing system has a built in Amp and u cant get to it without ripping the whole dash board out and the system gives out like 22v so if u sent that to a AMP it will fry the amp in little time , so they are looking into it and maybe able to install a voltage reducer so its all very complicated - just wanted to threw my comments in and see if anyone know anything about the 2017 models and the difficulties of improving the standard system , you can add a Sub with a bit of work but its not easy
Will this work on a 2015 Mazda6 GT? My driver's side door speakers pop when I turn up the volume over 50%. It seems to happen with bass notes only. Not sure what the issue could be
@@BobStevens789 thanks Bob. Actually found a link on the web that deals with the Mazda6. Gonna post it here in case someone like me is looking for it. www.paulstravelpictures.com/2014-2018-Mazda-Mazda6-Interior-Door-Panel-Removal-Guide/
Did you install an amp to power those speakers? I have installed many aftermarket speakers but they didn't sound as good as the stock. I mean these things distorted.
I didn't. I can't hear any distortion with this setup. I have also installed speakers in my Explorer with everything else stock and I don't have distortion with it, either.
Kicker 41DSC654 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I150K74/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Imaginably it would sound even better with a quality amp, but I haven't noticed any distortion.
@@martian5393 I mean you might be able to get a bigger speaker in with a lot of modification to the mount, but I can't say it will work with any certainty.
@@jacknelson9347 It's a rotary tool - Dremel is the most well-known brand of them, but you can get much cheaper ones from other brands. I can't really think of a good alternative, though you might be able to get by with a small saw and a file.
The factory speakers in this car were simply 1-way drivers with no tweeters. Apparently most Mazda 3s have tweeters on top of the dash. I used 2-way speakers (Kicker 41DSC654), though the two front ones started having problems recently and I replaced them with Pioneer TS-A1676R 3-way speakers which I don't think are quite as good as the Kickers but they're still pretty good and hopefully they'll last longer.
Bob I want to replace all speakers and add a sub. Now im trying to figured out which LOC to purchase from PAC. Im a bit confuse because they have a few.
They are the stock speaker mounts that come with the car, I just had to cut out the stock speakers and drill new holes to use them with the new speakers.
Yea, my 2.0L Atenza hasn't got the Bose system and whatever crappy speakers are in there, they are barely held in place. I needed the part number to order these brackets online to fit my new speakers, but since then i managed to find and buy them off one of the local wrecking yard. Thanks on prompt reply though, great vid!!
Does anyone any experience with the Kicker DSC650s in this vehicle? Or at all? Also I have a 2017 mazda 3 iSport, both front and rear are 6.5" correct? Do you guys think the dsc650s will provide me with clean crisp bass? Im not necessarily looking for subwoofer strong bass, I mean the car already has kind strong bass but it gets so distorted and shitty sounding at higher volumes... Does anyone know what wattage the stock stereo is rated at? These kickers are 240 watts peak. Thanks in advance.
If you're looking for bass. My suggestion would be to add a sub. When you use a speaker for lows, mids, and highs. The lows distort the mids. You wouldn't necessarily have to get a component system.
Antonio Mussolini audio control dq 61 can do the job. You have to get an amp either (kenwood xr 900 5 will let you power components on front and coaxials on the rear door plus a non powered subwoofer in the trunk, it is very high quality and inexpensive). Beware, this integration units require professional installation and calibration. The other issue about installing and external amp is that the mazda 3 third gen economy mode (which turns off the engine on stops) will detect higher than "usual" battery draining because of the amp and will not turn off the engine as often as intended to safe fuel. The last issue is that external amp integration on mazdas with the bose sound system will be very problematic since signals come from the receiver after internal crossover which wont let integration units (as audio control dq 61) do the job properly.