I'm convinced that lathe chucks are connected to phones. Every time I remove mine, the phone rings. Back when I was a diesel mechanic, I was convinced engine flywheels were connected to phones. Nice Video Colin!
Great job Colin. I too have this on my "to do" list as soon as I get caught up on some other items. This just gave me some more inspiration to get after it. Mike.
Interesting accessory project for your lathe. It is always a disappointment when you discover a problem with something you have purchased secondhand that you did not know about, but, in this circumstance you seemed to get around the problem relatively easy, well done.
Dan Whiteford Other than minor picky stuff the machine was essentially new. I don't think many would have noticed the spindle damage. Luckily enough it was a reasonable easy fix and doesn't affect the machine in any way. Thanks for commenting Dan. Colin ;-)
Moments like when it wouldn't fit are when your machine yells out SURPRISE! The spindle hole on my Monarch is so small I rarely get anything long enough and small enough diameter to take advantage of a spider like that. I tend to always get stuck running steadies and working on the 8foot of bed side.
bcbloc02 I normally don't need a spider for most work but having to use some drill rod to make pins last week prompted me to get this done. It may not get used for months now that it's done. Thanks Brian.
Hey Colin, Well done bud, you will find the outboard spider very handy, now you just need an inboard one for holding odd shaped parts. Just thought I would add to your never ending list of projects.... :) Ray
Ray Caniglia Thanks Ray. I haven't had much need for one over the years but it's nice to have it available just in case. Thanks for the list addition..... lol Colin ;-)
Nice one Colin. I have a similar lathe and jotted down a few ideas from your setup: that tool rack in the back is awesome. Out of the way and seems sturdy enough to not rattle. The gap bed cover is also a good idea. I did one a few weeks ago but yours looks much better. The "order" sheet propped up with magnets, another good one. Can't tell you how much time I've wasted chasing my plans around after they walk away. I have a DRO on mine but it's useless with the x-slide when cutting threads. Noted the indicator on the toolpost.
JRoque250 The new rack now holds new lighting as well as the toolholders. Put it together a few weeks back. The gap cover I made the second day I owned this lathe..;-) Maybe try to get a segment in vid for ya. The toolpost indicator props go to Turnwright machine... copied that from Keith. ;-)
Dave Prototype Thanks Dave. I should have, and planned to, record a segment on what I found but I'm not sure why I didnt. In the end it wasn't much more than a quick fix with a file to get the spider to spin on there. It wasn't till editing I realized that I had nothing for that part. I had to reshoot the latter part of the vid...;-) Thanks for the visit and comment. Colin ;-)
Hi Colin, So now I know 2 things I didn't know about my Asian lathe, 1 why does it have what appeared to be a momentary button, and 2 why does that button have a "T" printed on it! As Homer Simpson might say DOH! You know, I have never attempted to cut a thread on that lathe, as I always do it on the TOS, OK, now it's probably going to be a see if I can kinda thing! Cool video, nice job Bud, I'm trying to get caught up, I have a lot of watching to do Mike
Michael Reggie Hmm, I never thought of that symbol as a "T" for threading.... but thats my story I'm gonna use.. LOL I just use the jog button to lessen my chances of crashing!! Good to hear from ya buddy! Colin ;-)
You can build and use an LP fired furnace or an electric, I have built and use both, they work well. You could view my video if need be, or send me a PM, I would be glad to answer any questions you might have, Jeff.
jusb1066 When I went to view this machine the ONLY damage I found was that the gib screw on the compound had a couple nicks from a close encounter with a chuck jaw. I didnt even catch on to the spindle when I measured it up for the spider as I measured in close to the thread. No big deal as it's not a precision part anyway... Good old file to the rescue! Thanks, Colin ;-)
Hi Colin, Try talking, driving, answer the phone, drink coffee, start another job on the milling while threading metric on an imperial lead screw lathe..... ! I Cant.....! Nice add on to the wish list for missing tools in my shop, do you know of a way to invent extra time....? Nicely done, was nice to see something done in your shop. Presently working on something with a little improvisation, wooou...! hope it turns out interesting. ;-) Pierre (-;
pierre beaudry Normal threading not an issue...internal short metric..while camera is running.....little more tense...LOL I've heard you can gain back a few minutes if you run the lathe fast enough in reverse.... ;-) Thanks Pierre. ;-)
Hi Colin ! Long time no see ... but now you're back - good ! That spider ... is that enough - depending on how long the material is sticking out of the boretube, I would believe you have to have extra support - I use a heavy stand on the floor and the spinning material is then turning inside ring on top of this stand - you just have to prevent the turning material to START flapping around - I don't think your spider will do that for longer materials - right ? And those 4 long screws is a dangerous thing to have spinning around in that place - a big diameter plastic pipe glued to the cover and drill a hole on the upper perifery for screwing and unscrewing - just an idea ... for free ! ;-)) I love your nice and clean machines, I just love them ... wish I could clean my own likewise ;-(( - thx for sharing !
***** Hi Again ! Here I buy stock in length of 2 meters and that has to have some exstra support for thin diameter material - I think that's what happened to your machine in the past since the spindle tube is so bell-shaped. I believe my spindle pipe os 5-6 mm thick material, so I don't think I need a spider inserted in the end of it - anyway, nice to see you machines ;-))
maybe they lifted it with a strap around the back of the spindle , i've seen that done before. Don't think previous owner had an accident because it would be banged up rather than ovalized.
meocats I really can't think of another reason for the end of the spindle to be belled out like that and I am only surmising as to cause. Whatever the reason, it threw me for a loop during this project. Thanks for stopping by. Colin ;-)
I have essentially the same lathe as you, a Kent USA KLS-1340-A. It has the same outboard spindle end yours has, but no runout or taper! ;-) I am in the middle of a handwheel collet closer project and decided to also make it an outboard spider while I was at it. I decided to intentionally not use the spindle threads to attach the adapter and just made a shoulder to clear the tops of the threads. I have turned internal metric threads to a shoulder successfully, so that was not the issue. Rather I was concerned with the spindle threads being damaged if the work turned in the chuck. Your smaller spider bolts (5/16 ?) should allow slippage there. I will be using 4 brass 1/8-27 NPS straight thread plugs to friction mount the adapter to the smooth part of the spindle O.D. so if it spins it can't damage anything. I will be using 3/8" spider screws with brass tips, larger than yours, and they will be located further inboard than yours, just clearing the spindle end. I will need to use very short screws or SHCS to be able to use the spider with the gear cover on, and the cover will need to be removed to tighten/release them, or remove the cover for using longer bolts. Your project looks great, we are just making different design choices. My choices are also influenced by the collet closer function. Very nice work, Colin!
Hello again,enjoyed the video, I am in the process of casting aluminum blanks to machine back gears and pulleys for my home built lathe, also built my own dividing head to make the gears, just need to learn how to use it. Look forward to your next video, thanks for your inspiration, Jeff.
Jeff Nading You're doing a Gingery type build?? You should share some pics or video of it. I did some reading on that subject a few years back. Thanks, Colin ;-)
Yes, I built the Gingery lathe back in 84, then built the dividing head, now getting around to making the gears and other items. I have really enjoyed casting parts, then seeing them to completion. Used this skill for many jobs and other people. I do plan on making more videos as these new lathe parts progress, thanks Colin for your encouragement, Jeff.
Hi Colin Thanks for the great video! Just came across your channel because of the referral to it by our French friend Pierre Beaudry. WRT your lathe I have seen adds for it here on Vancouver Island but didn't realize it was such a substantial solid machine. I think yours is a 14 x 40(?) - I'm impressed. Going to go back and watch more of your video's Thanks again Rod
+Newmachinist I'll have to thank Mr Beaudry.. :-) My lathe is a 14x40 and best I can tell is the better of the import units VERY much like the Grizzly for US buyers. Busy Bee tools and such also have machines but they're of questionable quality. She's still not good old American iron but there's not a whole of choice these days. Thanks for the comment.. Colin :-)
Hello there Colin Nice demo with good commentary. Heck Man, U really push Your Drills, and that too, without step drilling at all. Your sharpening must be really super-class !!! Need to make ourselves a Spidey also and 'twas well worth watching U going through the steps precisely. BTW, we do lots of Metric Threading and don't disengage our Half nut at all during the whole process. Once we are absolutely certain that the finished size is "hundreds" ( perfect), then only is the Half Nut disengaged. In fact, come to think about it and in retrospect, even our Fractional Threading is done like that. We don't use our Thread Dial Indicator at all. And the Threads are all perfectly finished. Doing things differently to achieve the same result, I guess. Thanks for this showing aRM
aRM Thanks aRM. Generally for me time is money and if I can save time by pushing the equipment harder I will. BUT not at the expense of breaking the tool. Sharpening takes some time to get right even with practice. If you notice that particular drill had a bigger chip on one side...;-) You can leave the H/N engaged for imperial too but having the ability to let it go is nice. I don't mind any metric threading except when it's to a shoulder..LOL Cheers, Colin ;-)
Great video Colin, couldn't but noticing your collection of Timmy's coffee cup trays under the work bench...gave me the craving for a double double ;>)
Colin, in one of your videos you mentioned a source for either your keyless chuck or your vice, I can't remember which. I do remember it was a supplier in the Toronto area though. As i'm in the market for both, I would appreciate you mentioning it again. Thanks. I enjoy your videos btw. Great for those of us who enjoy machining as a hobby.
The guy I use for quite a few tools is Dave @ Accusize. I find a lot of the import stuff they sell is decent, notably spiral pointed taps. The keless chucks @ $40 or less are ok especially in comparison to Albrect or such. Have a look around their website. :-)
Hello Colin, Nice video. Always seems like that "it has to be the threads-- one more thousandth" bites you! Couple of days ago I was trying what turned out to be a metric thread on my NF and it would start then jam up. Well you know the rest of the story on that one. Gotta loose thread and had to start again. I am glad my Grizzly had a spider already or I would be making them by the half dozen to get that inside metric thread right!! Take care. Doug
Nice build Colin, great edit on the vid. Sometimes you just get into it and forget the camera, I've got 3 projects where I don't have enough valuable video to create a worthwhile vid because I forgot to turn the camera back on.
Steve S I hear ya. I've "started" recording a few different ones but then it all goes to pot and I don't bother filming the remainder.. Thanks for dropping in. Colin ;-)
Steve S Same here, only my problem has been leaving the camera running with it zoomed in too far and not showing anything but a small area of something nondescript and blurry, LOL!
Yeah I've had my nerves shattered once too many times so I set about to make a 'Kill switch' that slides up and down the control rod and has a taper on it so that as the carriage reaches the required position, it flicks the rod and switch to off. It locks to the rod with a knurled thumb screw wherever needed. When metric threading, the nerves are now 'cucumber cool'.
Arjan Leeuw Thanks Arjan. She's a King Industrial 14 x 40" so that would translate into 355 x 1016 mm. Spindle bore is 38 mm. Kinda small for industrial use I guess but it handles most things I throw at it just fine. Colin ;-)
