Jake you are the only one that makes people understand what is all about 4 link You help me a lot to understand what and how to do it These 3 videos about 4 link are more than treasure to me and for most of us that want to build a reliable 4 link suspension Thank you .... i wish i could thank you in person but i am far away from there
Do you have an IFS geometry video? I want to know if I can move my upper a-arm pivot point back and up. And lengthen my upper a-arms to get more wheel travel. On a 2014 ram1500.
Have you thought about doing a video on choosing ride height or picking the right shocks? I believe that would go really good with your other suspension videos.
I have a question on the angle of arms you say around 60 degrees is what you shoot for is that between the two arms or each arm parrelel from the vehicle ? Thanks
Can you guys just design my double triangulated 4 link for my single cab long bed1978 ford f150 and mail me all of the parts and specs? I'm wanting to run 37's with a 7-9 inch suspension lift and a 2 inch body lift (had to have it to clear my headers).
Awesome! Extremely informative. I'm not even building a crawler, but the theories you explained here are very applicable to vehicle steering and suspension. This video was certainly worth the time. The ONLY point I can pick at is the difference in volume in video segments haha. Thanks for taking the time.
if you use 309 stainless filler rod on the chromoly you don't have to get heat treated and it's just as strong as it would be with chromoly rod and the heat treatment
Thanks for this very informative video!! I'm working on putting Dana 44 front and rear under an old D-21 Nissan extended cab. Also dropping in a Ford 351/automatic.
just rewatched this because im planning to 3 link my rear end with a panhard. Do the same rules about link length and placement apply to a 3 link with panhard?
I had a question for 35" tall tires or the metric equivalent would a factory Jeep Wrangler wheelbase need to be stretched out to 95"-100" or would the stock 93.5" or so wheelbase be fine to be for general offroad use? I do plan on using slightly wider (built Ford 8.8) axles if that makes any difference. Thanks
Sounds like you know these things from experience. Best kind of knowledge. I'm building a project in my mind, before I start the actual work. This has really helped. I appreciate the video. Hope youtube pays you guys well.
3 questions 1. Can I run dual triangulated in the front 2. On a dual triangulated how far apart can my 2 upper link mounts be apart from each other 2. If I can not do 1/2 then in a 3 link front what is the minimum/max angle the upper link to frame can be
Really appreciate the actual useful info. Not many people on the internet genuinely just trying to give good info. Trying to build a prerunner and would love a 4 link rear.
great video! currently doing my own mini build, just a lightly offroaded TJ, was thinking about doing a three link with a track bar for the front, could you do a video like this but for three link setups?
Hi I'm looking for some advice if you don't mind... OK I have a toyota hilux double cab and I'm wanting to use a triangulated 4 link on the rear, but I also want to extend the frame so I can fit an extended tub. Would it be better to: Cut and put a piece inbetween Or just weld on a piece it at the rear?
Hi Jake, Thank You so much for the high quality parts you sent! I completed the front four link with limited geometry due to obstructions, however in the rear I have more room and was wondering how the upper and lower link horizontal spread at the narrow ends effect travel and articulation characteristics? Should they be as close as possible? Or are there aspects I should be considering when choosing the link bracket mount locations? Thank You!
Not sure if the same rules apply here but im getting ready to start a mega mud truck build on my f350 superduty using 2.5 rockwell toploads. Alot of people tell me the upper and lower link bars need to be the same length and have the same link seperation at the axle as they do at the subframe. Along with a 15* link rise. And to keep the lower links parallel and only have the upper link triangulated.... any input would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for the great video... I'm starting a build using rockwells and noticed a lot of people use a single triangulated (lower) and parallel uppers due to the large chunk up top. The rear should not be a problem for double triangulated 4 link but the front is a challenge. Would you mind (if and when you time) doing a video like this one about doing single triangulated 4 link? Thanks again! Keep up the good work!
I need your help on double triangulated. I have 48 degree on the bottom and 30 degree on the top I know it’s not right but I’ve seen straights on the top my issue is side to side movement shud there be zero movement
@@BustedKnuckleVideo How do you determine/set ride height on a rock crawler/ bouncer? Obviously lower the COG is best but how do you balance COG with ground clearance and shock travel?
Good stuff. I've been out of 4 wheeling for awhile due to life. Before life happened I was in the parts acquisition stage of building my Jeep. Since then I landed a sheet metal apprenticeship and to finish it out we do a project of our own for our 5th year. I decided I was going throw out all my brackets, tabs, skids, misc sheetmetal parts, build all of it myself, and finish my suspension. This, along with your anti-squat video, are really good refreshers. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing all this good information.
awesome videos! this helped explain a lot of the questions ive had after many hours of reading on pirate where its not always easy to find actual answers!!
Ok here it goes. Im building a 1973 f250. I have a dana 60 from an 04 superduty and I want to build a front triangulated 4 link for it and I am trying to figure out the best geometry for my links. The truck is going to be a weekend driver sometimes used for towing but will see alot of off road use. The truck is going to end up weighing 7500lbs have 5in. of lift (or really only 1 since it ran 4in. rear lift from factory) and 40in. tires. Please anybody I need help!
OK I watched this entire video. But it’s not explaining what I came here for LOL. So I’m going to ask in the comments section. I am building a six door 6 x 6 truck. I want four link suspension all the way around. How easy or difficult will it be to engineer a design That can handle 750 hp and 12o7 foot pounds of torque? Going around 100 to 120 mph in the sand desert of Mexico truck should weigh around 9500 to 1100 pounds
Hey I have a question I haven’t been able to find any real direct answers for. I’m building a yz 4 link rear and 3 link front. Trying to buy heim joints. I’ve seen a lot of kits that use 1.25 inch heims. But choked to to 5/8 or even 9/16 bolts. What is the purpose in such a large heim with a small bolt? I’m mostly street driving and slow speed crawling / wheeling. I could buy 3/4 heims and half the price and use the same size bolt? What’s the deal with that
Should I follow all these tips for a parallel 4 link on my 1995 f-250. I will be strictly using it for ON-ROAD use. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you. The video has helped me. Trying to triangulate the front. And remount track bar to match steering geometry. Using a wider axle. My triangulation degree needs more on wider axle. Thanks again.
Don't you generally want to keep the pinion angle parallel to the transmission instead of pointing to the transmission? Then the opposing U-joints cancel out vibration.
Well not sure what is your most recent vid but why, am I seeing so many ladder bars with triangulated upper links instead of the double triangulated 4 link? Thank you
I got a 86 blazer that I want to run 23.1s under with 5tons. What wheel base would you suggest I run. Its set up at 115 center of the shock mounts as of now.
I'm designing my rig at the moment. When are the next videos coming out with roll centres and all that?! Great info from a specialist, just what I needed!
I have a f350 on 37s with a 10” lift I tow a lot and have severe axle wrap should I take my measurements with the trailer hooked to the truck or without it ??
Does keeping the upper and lower link bars the same length work for a single triangulated 4 link system or is it just for double triangulated system? My truck is offroad only and we set the rear up with shorter upper link bars than the bottom.
So I’m building my first linked suspension system. Mine is having issues. I’ve tried adjusting castor with no results. All my links are right and my track bar is tight. All my brackets and components are new. The only difference I can see from what you’ve described is my lower control arm angles. They’re steep at about 14 degrees. Would this cause my jeep to wander? What reaction do you usually get out of a suspension with too steep of lower control arms?
BustedKnuckleVideo I have 2 door jk 2013. If I want to offroading in high speed and jumping like king of hammers do. should I do stretch kit for longer wheel base?
Awesome clip, it would have been good to see before I built mine. I'm in line with everything you said except in the rear my top links are longer than the bottom ones. Its duel triangulation about 3" longer. What will be that affect. Thanks Again.
i have a question for you i have a 1971 dodge tailer duster ,it looks like a ram charger but with a removable top anyways , it has leafs spings front and rear , before i start to build these links do i leave the leafs in place build my links install the links and then remove my leafs ,or how does thst work ,because the leafs give a point of refence dont they ?
@@BustedKnuckleVideo yeah I know it's a old truck but it's gonna be my off road truck for the desert ,just weekend worrier ,I do want to put a decent suspension on it ,4 link in the rear some bypass shocks and a trophy's truck sway bar set up ,why do u recommend cutting mounts instead of using the leafs as a reference
i have a suzuki samurai i intend to put on links in the coming weeks. i have a small dilemma though. i'm on 33s currently but am putting bigger axles in that will give me room to grow in the future. would i be better off basing my link separation off of the tire size i have now or off of what i intend to grow to before making any other serious changes (like adding wheelbase or anything of the like) i probably wouldn't go past a 36 without making serious changes anyway so, redoing the links if i go past that wouldn't be an issue. but, if i can avoid it, it would be nice to go up a larger tire without completely redoing my suspension
@@BustedKnuckleVideo thank you very much for the response. This is something I have never seen brought up. And it was concerning to me considering its probably safe to say that the majority of off roaders are not already on the largest size tire they ever plan to run.
GREAT video!! Thanks! How much of a difference do you think the shorter upper front links make for on road use. I see lots of 3 link + panhard kits using combination brackets (combines upper & lower mounts) for the frame and I'm wondering if this means I should avoid them and get individual brackets so I can do a shorter upper. I'm building an Jeep LJ on 40s and expect 75% road/25% off road use.
Well if a .25 thick plate of 7075-t75 can hold a 250 lbs ejector and hold 12000 lbs of thrust and have a life span of 5000 landing. Look up Hubbard hush kits is want I build. I dont know
Hey Jake...Great information on 4-linking. I just have a quick question related to triangulation. In the rear of the vehicle, can the four links be setup with the upper arms straight (essentially running under the frame) and the lower arms be crossing with no track bar? Wouldn't this design setup (single triangulation in the absence of a track bar) lead to a rear steer issue and stability problem with the vehicle??? Would really appreciate your expertise on this question. Thanks - DMZ
one thing you dont mention when youre talking about rod end selection is you need to make sure that at least one of the link can rotate. since the link rotates some under articulation, you cant have poly bushings on both ends, as it will cause the link to twist and possibly break, or at the minimum, wear out the bushings very quick
If you only run single u joints at each end of the front drive or rear drive shaft then the pinion angle should be the same angle as the transmission output and not pointing at the transmission. For example. My jk has a 4.0 swap and I intentionally mounted the engine and transmission level with the frame. So I can run lots of castor angle and single u joints each end. Great video.
Hi i saw your video and i got impressed with all the things you said, i understand that all those stuffs are for rock climbers isn't it? i have a suzuki samurai 88 and i want to make a 4 link suspension on it, i dont have big tires i have a 30" and maybe i will change it for a 33" but no soon, i dont use it for rock climbing, i just do a light off road things on it, could you helpme with that?? im looking for information on internet but i dont find to much about how to build it correctly, thanks anyway!!
for the love all things that are holy thank you for this video after reading 22 pages on pirate and still scratching my head this just answered alot of questions for me. how do yall tap the 7075 AL tho @ a machine shop just know the pitch of te threads for the rod ends that you are using?
I love the video. So when running a cv driveshaft you want the pinion pointed at tcase throughout the suspension cycle correct? And to do that you make your links approx the same length?
Great Video, guys! That would have cost a few hundred dollars to learn in a class or several thousands of dollars to learn with the ol' break-fix method!
Amazing info mate ... really helpful to finally have somebody talk numbers instead of vague principles ;-) Definitively will be using this info in my coming buggy build !!!
so if I use a 18 inch, the upper shock mount determines the ride height correct? short loop the higher, the longer the loop the lower... please help. how can I contact you?
