@@dennisvanhoof9958 I ordered a onefinity CNC recently and your videos are showing me what's possible! I really appreciate you sharing your incredible content!
Thank you! I don't really know either, but please spread the word! Maybe because my projects are too complicated or maybe it takes too long for the next video to appear? The projects I believe worth posting usually take several weeks or even months to think through, design, execute, improve/correct, finish and then compile the video. I prefer quality and innovation over quantity and doing the same thing as everyone else has already done before. I'm also not very active on other social media platforms (like Facebook and Instagram) to promote my work, so I don't have as much exposure. Ah well, I don't mind a small but select group of followers to inspire and get awesome feedback, tips and encouragement in return. :)
Dennis! From one Artist (Painter) to another: Great job! Also, love the penguins walking across the box at 4:30 minutes into the video! Easily missed comical addition.
You make really great videos and nice projects which are different from other youtubers and that makes them interesting! For me as german guy you are really good to understand and I hope for future interesting videos.
Thank you for your kind words! As long as I keep getting nice comments like yours, I'll stay motivated to post more videos. I hope that these inspire others to maximize their creativity. :)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 I was wondering if you thought about getting the latest iPad or similar device that has a LiDAR Scanner and tried 3D scanning anything? I would think that would greatly improve your workflow :) Ps- your violins are absolutely beautiful, I hope you can convince someone to play them properly and make a video of it so we can hear the results?
@@bacon_sammich2845 Thank you for all the praise! I honestly don't spend too much time on generating the 3D model. Zephyr works well and is free. The most time consuming part of the 3D model is getting it ready for CNC routing. But even that does not compare to the actual CNC time. So I tend to pick my battles when it comes to saving overall time and the hands-on work, if you know what I mean.
I've had a small CNC similar to yours for almost 10 years and I've never thought of using it the way you do to create these 3d objects, absolutely amazing. Have you ever considered replacing the belt drive with a ball screw system to avoid the belt and pully clogging?
Thank you for your kind words and the suggestions! I do not have any intention to modify my CNC with a ball screw system, except for the Z-gantry (which is available as an upgrade called HDZ). I can get the precision and accuracy I need with the current setup, and a bit of cardboard and paper does the job of protecting the belts from clogging up. :)
Tanks for this very good and interesting video.An the beginning offre Thierry video , you take pictures of thé raw wood part to better position them. What software do you us to transform a normal picture in a 3D program an thé computer ? It is possible to upload free this program on internet ? Did you use thé same program to make mâle bust ? Thanks for your answer in advance.
Thank you for your kind words! Yes, I used the same process of photogrammetry to make a 3D model of the male torso: Zephyr to construct a 3D image out of 50 photos, and then Meshmixer to compile and refine the model. Take a close look at the male torso video starting here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9X4PtU4XPMw.html
Hoi Peter! Bedoel je dat door de temperatuurverschillen de nauwkeurigheid minder is vanwege het uitetten en krimpen van de metalen CNC constructie? De meeste van mijn werken zijn organische 3D structuren, waarvoor precisie minder belangrijk is. Ook is hout van zichzelf aan onmiddelike vervorming onderhevig zodra je er het stukken van afhaalt omdat de spanning tussen de vezels onderling verandert en het hout krom wil trekken. Verder heb ik nooit de moeite genomen om mijn CNC helemaal precies haaks te maken en ook de rek van de riemen (en daarmee de afstand tussen de tanden) zal niet exact hetzelfde zijn. Ook al zijn mijn projecten relatief groot voor een simpele hobby-CNC, het is allemaal goed genoeg om niets van de onnauwkeurigheid te merken als ik 2-zijdig CNC werk doe met dowel holes; als het allemaal heel slecht zou zijn afgesteld, dan zou je dat meteen werken omdat de dowels niet op hun plaats vallen bij het omdraaien van het materiaal. Het valt dus allemaal wel mee. :)
I have a few things I plan on carving using your process but I have a question for you. If I wanted to carve a topo map on a piece of wood and cut it up into quadrants, would there be seams where the quadrants meet? Sanding a topo map would be tough. is it possible or does this work only for smooth surfaces?
Good question! I'm afraid that there will most certainly be seams. It is difficult enough already to seamlessly glue square blocks. Wood will warp as soon as you take a chunk out of it. But even without the warping, you will see the boundaries, just because the grain pattern on one block will not match and smoothly transition into the other. You're right that sanding a 3D shape with lots of fine details is difficult. Would it be possible to use natural boundaries in your work to mask the seams? Instead of straight lines, could you for instance follow the ridges of mountains or centers of valleys, like pieces of a puzzle? If so, just keep in mind the sharp corners that should be able to fit the diameter of the bits that you use.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 Thank you for your reply. After re-reading my question I see I did a poor job of asking my question but I think you answered it well, but I do want to try again. I would like to take a single piece of wood and put it on a jig and machine it from four sides following you have done. If I wanted to machine a topo map out of a single piece of wood to get a cylinder with a topo map machined onto it, would I see a seam (in four locations) or would it look like it was done on a 4th axis?
Good questions, but no. The piece would be too thick to fit under the Z-gantry, and also the bit would not be able to reach any overhanging sites. The bits aren't long enough either to go that deep, without the router bumping into the stock material. See my video where I explain these challenges when carving a Koi fish: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--reSew5u5Oc.html
