4 things you MUST check before you buy any used car! CAR WIZARD shows how not to be scammed! 

17 out of 20 of the used cars for sale right now need immediate attention. And 20 out of 20 are overpriced.

Very helpful! Just one more to add: the parking lot test. Park directly next to a painted line in the parking lot and then look at the reflection in the side of the car. If the (straight) line is all distorted and wavy, the car had impact damage. Doesn’t matter if they used filler and the paint is smooth as such, you will still see it.

Don’t forget the classic trick of covering up the check engine light. Turn the key to on but don’t start it. Check engine light will be on. If not, huge red flag.

The best advice I ever got about buying used cars was to be very careful about buying a car that was just running or is when you arrive. There's a good chance they are hiding something

If you show up and the car is running or engine is hot, 99% of the time something is wrong.

I always take a car to the dealership for a “pre-purchase” inspection. Dealer mechanics tend to know the specific weaknesses of a particular model that won’t show up in diagnostic codes. These inspections are very thorough. And they include a list of any needed repairs and a parts list and the cost of the repairs. A good investment of $250. If you’re too far from a dealership, consult a trusted mechanic. If the seller won’t allow this inspection, walk away.

Or you can use the Hoovie "Car Issues" approach: show up, rev the engine twice, shake hands, hand over an envelope of ca$h, and leave. Takes substantially less time.

Key point. ASK if you can remove the engine cover, and if they say no, ask why not. Don't just rip it off and expect the seller to stand there and not say anything.

No title, no deal. That's good advice. Years ago, I bought a bike from a guy who didn't have the paperwork handy, but a mutual friend vouched for him. The promised paperwork kept taking longer and longer to arrive... Eventually it worked out, I got the ownership a couple of months later. But for that time, I couldn't register it or do anything with it, and didn't know if I ever could. So in case it's not clear, no title, NO DEAL!

One thing I look for when looking on used cars is whether both headlights are equally as faded. If one headlight is crystal clear and the other one is a bit foggy that’s a good indication that the car was in an accident.

One other thing is make sure the engine is cold when you get there. If its already warmed up walk away. Some cars seem fine when warmed up, but cold they are completely different. I had an Audi that ran fine once it was warmed up, but when it was cold was really hard to start.

Section 1.2 - Current registration. You could find a car with a clean title and they haven't registered it for 5 years. You will be on the hook for past registration, fees, penalties, etc. Also, when I go to look at a car I talk myself into not wanting it before I look at it. After inspection, if enough boxes get checked I may change my mind. Much better than going into this with " i want this car I want this car I want this car" and after you get home saying "I wish I never bought this car."

It’s actually good to rev it if you have another person/camera looking at the engine. If it moves out of place at all, it likely has a broken motor mount. Unexpected engine movement can lead to dozens of problems. Water/vacuum hose stress, wire stress, etc.

I went to MD to NJ myself, as a woman, to purchase an Eclipse. I purchased a cheap code reader before I left. Put the code reader in the eclipse. I forgot what code came on but I called my mechanic and cousin with the code. They both said it was the catalytic converter. He wasn’t willing to bargain is what he told me when i initially asked. I walked away from the headache from the one small investment. Obviously the code had been turned off but the issue not fixed.

I would always check the tires. Worn tires are one thing, but uneven wear indicates that something is up with the suspension. And if the tire brands don't match, or it is running a budget brand that you've never even heard of, you know that the owner has tried to run it on a shoestring budget.

*You can be scammed with the coolant reservoir/expansion tank. I've seen where they will clean it out real nice, then they will take off the hose and plug it off with something, put the hose back on with the restriction in it, then fill it with clean fluid. Looks can be deceiving and they do this to hide a serious problem. Pop that hose off and check it if you're suspicious about it.*

Barely 3 minutes in and I can concede that I do not know how to buy a car 😂 I will definitely be watching this a few times to get the information stuck in my mind for when I do, I will be finding a mechanic to pay for him to look it over and make a recommendation, thank you sir

One thing I would add is do a proper research of the model, find what usually goes wrong with it and make sure most of those problems have sorted alredy, otherwise thing can get really expensive. For example: old Mercedes CL or S class - ABC suspension. Jaguar XJ8/XK8 chain tensioners. Northstar engine - headgasket and so on.

These Daytonas are fairly rare but there are about 20 in my town lol. They came from Brampton Assembly to get their stripes put on here and it seems many didn't leave. The place that did them is right next to the Mini Van plant and I think a lot of employees saw them in the flesh and had to have one.

I walked away from a vehicle the minute I opened up the oil cap. I looked into the valve cover and all I saw was white milk. More important than most of the other stuff. I am surprised the car wizard did not mention this Major Red Flag.....

Check for even tire wear. If the tire isn't evenly worn, could mean the bushings/ tie rods, or even the whole strut is bad. Suspension work is VERY expensive. It costs less for an entire engine swap on some cars than for suspension work!

Since bumper covers, especially unpainted ones, can pop right back out, It could also be a good idea to look in the trunk for damage. Lift the trunk floor and check that there's no damage to the rear structure. Personally I would also be cautious if the engine bay is showroom clean. Makes me wonder if they're trying to hide leaks. Maybe also unscrew the oil fill cap and check for "chocolate milk".

You probably should have added to check under the oil cap, and the coolant reservoir cap and make sure it’s not all glittery, has weird substance on it like you mentioned in your previous videos to see if they’re hiding a head gasket issue.

I bought a car, thought I was real smart to check under the oil fill cap for water. I was so focused on that, I didn’t realize the paint underneath the hood was a different color. Fortunately even ‘tho it had been in an accident, it was ok and someone actually did decent body work!

Wizard, don't forget the gaps between body panels, and the shifted bolt marks!

in your under the hood inspection you should also take the oil fill cap off and make sure there is no milky sludge on the inside of the fill cap which could mean head gasket issues.

Sadly I can say I’ve made multiple mistakes mentioned in this video 😅 I bought a used Jeep from a guy who I knew from high school. He didn’t have the title at the time, but assured me it was in transit from the DMV… safe to say it wasn’t. I was too trusting because I thought I knew him, but ultimately I paid the price.

as someone who worked in the automotive industry for 10 years as a parts guy. I can tell you that they use the cheapest parts available they do the least possible and they call it a safety lol. They then turn around and up the price four five thousand dollars more than what they pay for the car. Always take the car to another mechanic do not trust dealerships

*It’s sad that so many people don’t understand the basics of buying a car…* Although, it makes me happy when people ask me what I think about the car they’re about to buy. It also makes me feel too good, when I tell people they shouldn’t have bought that. Then later, the car is so messed up, it’s not worth keeping.

Hey Car Wizard, excellent in-depth review and great advice. I would like to add a few tips that weren't covered (my apologies, if they were, while I went to the fridge). 1. Check the tires for unusual tread wear. 2. Besides checking the power windows, locks, mirrors, etc., also check if all the lights work. 3. If you have a buddy along for the inspection, have him/her follow you in a separate car and look for defects. Vehicles with 'frame damage' don't track correctly. (An exaggerated case would be the vehicle driving 'crooked' or semi-sideways.) Any liquids dripping from the tail pipe? 4. Do the 'bounce test' on the front and rear ends, while it's stationary to test the shocks/struts. 5.. Does the front end 'dip or do a nose-dive' when braking? Or, 'lift' while accelerating? As always, your videos are informative and unbiased. Thank you.

To speak on the antifreeze smell after the engine has been running, I had a leak and replaced all the tubing and water pump. My vehicle smelled like hot coolant for months after the repair when I was done driving just from the residual coolant that had leaked prior to the fix. So, the smell of a coolant should raise red flags but not necessarily be a deal breaker.

These days, this is great advice for dealerships too! The pre-owned sections of lots have really lowered their standards due the current market, so being this detailed protects you!

Wizard, great video as always! One thing - if an estate car, ask to see the WILL and make sure the seller’s ID matches the “Executor” named in the will. “Power of attorney” ceases at death and they are not always the same person. It is its own separate legal document though, so if someone shows you the POA document, it means nothing.

Videos like this are GOLD. Car buying from a private seller can really be a hassle with some seller's. It's like they expect you to do the old school approach (check the oil and kick the tires and your good to go)

I cant' believe that, as a mechanic, you didn't recommand to get the car inspected by a professional...

Best thing to do,after you seen it all and like it, is to take it to a shop, pay 1/2 labor or so, if they charge you,and have the mechanic check it out for you, and put it on the lift;if the owner of the car declines and does not reschedule, probably better to leave it.

Remove the oil fill cap and shine a bright light in. If the inside looks golden and clean the car probably been cared for,if you see black sludge don't buy it.

Another thing to check is the digital display on the dashboard of the oil life, miles vs hours, etc. In 2007 I bought a 2003 Suburban, fully loaded, 4x4, etc. but after I got it home and started looking at the stats on the digital display it showed 39k miles but over 3600 hours. I still believe to this day that the dealership rolled back the mileage. Beware. Thanks Car Wizard for helping people.

In California, the seller must also provide a certificate of a recent successful smog test which will be necessary for the title transfer. And, for safety, the buyer should also check NHTSA for outstanding recalls. There are still cars on the road with Takata airbags.

Great video Mr. Wizard...I live in Michigan where we use salt to keep our roads ice free during the winter. Looking at the underside of a vehicle here is extremely important. I've seen vehicles that look great but have frames that are rotted out. Pickups and SUV's are particularly susceptible to having compromised frames.

Couple more things to add: I also check tire wear and depth and date on the sidewall to see how old they are. I also want all four to match up. Tires are not cheap so I will use that to bargain the price. Also in my state, a smog check is required whenever a car changes owners. I want a passing smog check in hand. I also always run a CarFax if for nothing else to verify the mileage. I have a family member who was scammed in the mileage department a few years ago. I also had a buddy who sold a car on CL with a certain number of high miles on it and literally a few hours after the sale, the new buyer was advertising it on CL with ALOT less miles (he had them lowered) while using the same exact photos from my buddy!!!

One thing that can also help is to write up a checklist to bring with you when you look at the car. Print it out and get a clipboard to put it in. The last time I was looking for a car, I created a checklist from watching videos like yours, and put the print out on the clip board so I don't miss something I should look at. A couple of times I showed up with the clip board, almost immediately the seller has said something like "Sorry, it's just been sold or "Sorry, It's no longer forsale", and that tells me that there is possibly something wrong with the vehicle.

Thanks for another great video. My two daily drivers are salvage titles, but I knew that going into it. I've put tens of thousands of care-free miles on my '06 Element and '03 Vitara 2 door. Passing on any salvage titled vehicle is just the advice us bottom feeders like to hear.

3 additional issues: 1 tire condition 2 metal "flakes" on dipstick 3 thorough rust inspection (rockers, pans and "extreme" use of undercoating) great vids keep up the good work! T

I worked for chrysler...i was the release engineer for the engine and trans dipsticks on this thing. I had to get rid of the trans dipstick as a cost savings measure...it was on my goals for the year.I did as I was told

Well said Wizard. Also with selling a car, do it at the DMV to make sure the buyer is going to do the transfer properly. You are on the hook for your car until ownership has been transferred.

*I really appreciate this video. What makes me sad, is that everyone watching this is already a “car person.”*

A little trick i was taught was you can swipe the tailpipe with your finger and if it comes out all black it means the car burns oil bad. And open oil cap to see if its sludgy or chocolate milk .

I concur with your statements car wizard I until recently have worked at a used dealership for the past 8 months and I'm still stunned to this day how many people can walk in test drive a terrible car that obviously had flaws and then had no clue in just assumed that they all behave that way and then walk out with that car in tow unfortunately having been tricked into accepting a financial burden. Of course our response was and always will be "well it's too late now you've already bought the car." I have absolutely no sympathy and/or mercy towards dealerships they're one of the few occupation, that's whole entire premise seems to be based solely around deception.

I actually had a dealer sell me a car with back fees and wouldn't pass smog. I learned a hard lesson to make sure the paperwork is straight before any deal can be made.

Wizard: "make sure it does not say junk, salvage or off highway" Ed and Freddie: "pffft... Whatever" 🙄

Check all the power windows, but also check each individual switch on all the doors. Make sure everything works. Every feature.

Had a friend with a Charger, at the job site, the auto transmission pawg in the shifter broke, he couldn't even shift it out of park.🤦‍♂️

Don't think you are safe buying from a dealership. I bought a used Nissan Altima from a dealership. On the way home from the dealership the oil light came on. Took it to a Nissan service department and found out the engine had a cracked block. Engine was junk. I called the dealership that I bought it from and they said it was as is. No warranty. After I threatened to put it all over social media they agreed to go half in with me for a used engine. Needless to say I spent an extra $3000 out off pocket. Always have a pre buy inspection done before buying any car especially from a dealership offering no warranty.

About the car scanner, some cars like my VW shows how many kilometers it drove since the last time the codes were cleared and how many times the car started since. I also would suggest a cheap battery tester, when I got my car last years, one week later the battery died and wasn’t covered on the reseller warranty.

A good list but I have many important items to add. I won't buy a car if I don't get to see the cold start. If I show up and the car is warm immediately no deal. I've turned around and left large dealers because they warmed the car up prior to my arrival to run the heater or A/C. Take the oil fill cap off. Check for moisture or a white milky substance. Sign of a possible bad head gasket. Look down inside with a flashlight. Verify no sludge buildup. Pull the dipsticks. If there is burnt varnish that means the fluids have been neglected and/or the vehicle has been abused. Look inside the radiator and confirm no corrosion and that the fluid is the proper color. Take cardboard and lay under the car inspecting for rust and accident damage. Check tires - brand new is a warning sign of a possible cover up. Old tires are a sign the vehicle isn't driven much and expect many small things wrong with the car as you go to use it. Old tires are also a bargaining point - a new set could be upwards of $1000 depending on model. Be sure the spare tire, jack, and security key are all there and in good order. Slightly mismatched colors on body panels, overspray, and any fresh paint are warning signs of collision and/or covering up rust. Finally be sure all the exterior lights and wipers function properly.

All very good information! Wizard is absolutely correct about the title situation. Clear title is critical. Wizard - you have provided an invaluable service to the car buying public, which is all of us. A heartfelt thank you!

19:30 The one thing you missed is before you start the engine just turn on the key and make sure all the bulbs light up particularly the check engine bulb. A lot of times people will remove them but of course your code scanner should pick that up. But you should check all the bulbs in the dash

Maybe scanning can be done after the test drive so anything that was cleared out before has chance to trigger again and show in OBD. Also checking tire wear could bring something interesting. Also if possible check for any leaks on rotors/drums

#1 is so so important. Not only this, but you can also see if they purchased the car wholesale from a company(which means it's probably got problems and not kept for lot sale because they didn't want to put the money in it for new brakes/battery/starter/trans change/oil leak fix) and you're really buying a flip and not a vehicle driven by the seller.

I bought a truck last year at a used car dealership and it was just inspected so I thought it was good to go, I got it inspected this year and found out it had hidden frame damage lol

Recently purchased my dream car - an 06 Magnum RT AWD w/124k. I’ve bought a lot of cars in my lifetime, most of them without a mechanic checking it. I’ve had great luck until my Magnum (law of stubborn averages). This video is so helpful even after a purchase.

On the brake fluid. The level will drop as the pads/ shoes wear. If the level is low, check the state of the brake pads. It is not a good idea to top up brake fluid as it will spill when changing old pads/ shoes for new units.

There are many decent salvage title cars out there. I bought one, 10 years ago. Yes, the repair paint wasn't perfect but I showed the "before" photos to an auto body expert and told me that a damaged car is more likely to be repaired if the damage is in the rear (front engine vehicle). I then talked to others who have owned multiple salvage title cars. Do your due diligence, have the car inspected, thoroughly, and you can save 50% over a clean title car. My car has been fantastic over these years.

#1 on the code reader...I bought one and had an issue with our Nissan Maxima post oil change at the dealer....turned out to be a MAF code...turns out they checked the airfilter but didn't put the air box correctly....back to the dealer with the code...and they admitted they caused the issue and corrected it.

I loved your video, please stay healthy cause I need your informative videos. It's refreshing to know that there are good honest mechanics like you. I'm lucky to have a very good, honest shop that I can trust for repairs

Here's a few more tips if you're going to buy used buy Honda's Toyotas Mazda if it's the right one even a Kia. Stay away from all the German brands because if you don't have the money to upkeep the way that they're supposed to they're not going to work like they're supposed to and they're going to cost you more in the end . Also steer clear of any charger or Challenger as people tend to drive the s*** out of those. That's the reason why you are considering purchasing one right? Don't do it

just a few other things that might help it's best to look at a car when it hasn't been running and the engine is cold. sometimes a vehicle will have a problem with starting cold.do all inspections before starting the engine. then after you shut the engine off, wait a few minutes for the fluids to settle and check them again. also restart the vehicle after it's up to temperature. sometimes there's a problem with starting after they're warmed up too. also, besides a mirror and flashlight, a good thing to take with you is a magnet. if the paint looks off in an area, see if the magnet sticks. if it doesn't, that means there's plastic body filler there. also look and feel around the door, trunk, and hood jambs. if they aren't smooth, it's most likely a tape line from painting. if you notice that a repair has been made, check everything in that area. example, Wizard showed the damage on his car. if I was looking at that car I would look inside the trunk thoroughly to look for damage and paint differences. look under the vehicle for the same. also if you see undercoating that doesn't look factory, it's probably hiding damage. if you live in an area where they salt the roads in the winter. check the frame and around the wheel openings for rust or repairs. be cautious if you see undercoating. I've seen cars where the frame was duct taped and undercoated to hide rust holes. if you see a little rust it's normal. but if it's scaly tap on it with a screwdriver to see if it's solid. if you push through with the screwdriver, walk away. hope this helps

I got a great deal on my current car, did the research, it was a Salvage title, from a major accident, but was put back together pretty darn well, the paint doesn't match completely in a number of places, but what I neglected to check was the AC and the CD-player - both of which were dead or damaged. But, for a 2000 Honda Civic with 120K miles, for $1,900 six years ago, that I have only put about another $1k in in upkeep, I am happy - but this gave me a couple more things to look at if I get another car, thank you, Wizard

There is a banana yellow Daytona in Webster TX just like yours in showroom condition. saw it just 2 days ago.

The sunroof is probably something that should DEFINITELY be checked out by you even if you never plan on using it. Sometimes they have defects in the design that don't come up during warranty period (because it wasn't used) and it's one of those things that probably isn't a "cheap DIY fix". Even if you don't need it, you will have to fix it before you ever sell it.

Car Wizard, one thing you left out. If your buying from a private seller always do the transaction at your local DMV. This actually protects both buyer and seller. I consider this step mandatory. If the seller won't agree, pass on the car.

It would be very helpful to have this all written down as a checklist.

I definitely make a title/vehicle ownership history report blundering mistake last time I bought an old van, luckily for me, the issue wasn't too bad in the end, but boy it could have been much worse and I really didn't need the extra stress, I now definitely agree, title is the first thing to check for sure.

I believe at this point if the car is overpriced then its understandable to be so picky. If the car is offered at a good price as long as the mechanical parts of the car are good dont be acting like its a new car or the seller will kick you out of their house. Happened to me☺️

Love it when the seller goes when you start looking, hey your buying a used car its not brand new things aren't going to be perfect. Have boughten more than one car because i liked the car and ignored the red flags, like my current mistake that i've put more money into than i paid for the car.

Surely when you are checking under the bonnet, you should also be checking the VIN plate and the punched number on the chassis, plus check the chassis legs for damage, straightness, different paint colour etc.

My sister had worked for a used car dealership and title problems are common.

I should be buying a car within the next 3 years (3 years from now if up to me). I can tell it is going to be an especially tricky task this time. An amazing percentage of new cars have issues ( pending...). As for used cars: first I will not buy anything with a tow package, considering the rage of RVers, and the fact that you have no idea how much extra wear and tear the thing has in all systems. I am thinking of selecting 3 to 4 candidates and starting to learn all I can about those...I cant bring every single car for a prepurchase inspection. Clearly if you do not want to learn all about your future car you may have to pay extra for ignorance.

20:17 when you pulled that line that’s when I knew I needed to leave 😂got enough info 💀

One important thing that could be added is checking the oil fill cap area for sticky oil or moisture which would also indicate head gasket failure or water entering oil.

A couple more simple checks. Are all 4 tyres matching (same manufacturer, size and type) and all with similar tread left. Open the boot (trunk) and check that there is a spare wheel with a jack (unless it is one of the newer vehicles with run flats and no spare of course). You can also look inside the boot for any signs of accident damage or repairs by lfting the carpet.

With such high miles this would be a good candidate to watch The Car Wizard do an engine rebuild on.

Solid Video with good advice. However I have always recommended to my friends & family that they take the car being sold to a mechanic that SPECIALIZES in that make of car. This way they are familiar with all the things that can/will go wrong with that particular car and be able to warn you accordingly.

Nice video, Wizard. Thanks for taking the time to teach some of the younger folks some important tips to help them save their hard earned money and lessen the chances they get taken advantage of. I’m a few years older than you, and have a similar life experience and path, and I admire when I see a peer spreading wisdom and leading by example to show people honesty and integrity.

Your tips about paperwork are SO important. It's absolutely just as important, if not more important than the condition of the vehicle! Awesome channel and great video

Great advice. A lot of people find out after the fact how hard it is to drive a bargain.

The ideal is to ensure that the car has been stopped for several hours by the time we see it, and then look at the ground, if it is dry it is already a good start. Then the first thing is to measure the oil, also with the engine cold. And finally, being able to see at least the dates of the last three oil changes and their correlation with the car's current mileage. Those simple first positive checks will indicate that we are going in the right direction

Learn from the Car Wizard, dont make my mistakes 😅 I bought my first car, an older Grand Cherokee in a bit of a rush, and skipped most of these steps. I knew to check the mechanicals, I knew to check the electronics, but completely skipped on checking the exterior of thr vehicle for any damage beyond rust. A few days later I was washing it, and realized my passenger side fender was scratched up fairly severly and coveted up with spraypaint lol. It was minor enough that I didnt notice it when first looking at the car, but its major enough that I ended up needing to replace the whole fender.

Also check under the carpet for rust and water intrusion There may be leaks via window/door seals or from a corroded /damaged bulkhead Also check the underside of the door/s and in the Wheel Well Trunk.Boot area for rust and water damage - Check also if there is any water in the in the Lights assembly - it may have a miniature Goldfish bowl Also check all the lights. Hi.Lo Beam - indicators - Brake/Stop lights - Hazard lights

If they have access to a lift, I usually request it to be put up on the rack so I can inspect the underneath. There you will usually see how well the car was taken care of by the amount of corrosion, the condition of the suspension, exhaust, see any leaks, or loose parts. Ive seen cars that "look" great and once I peak underneath, they look like they went 200K on a saltwater highway without ever being washed.

Should check tire tread too just to see if you have to replace the tires soon. Think of the reasons why a lot of people dump cars. They usually don't want to pay to fix SOMETHING, so almost ALWAYS there is pending maintenance to be done.

From experience I would rev it. I’m from kck but one time I went up to Walser bmw about a year ago to buy an 06 750li a dream car for me and I found out that the vehicle had bad valve stem seals by revving it a couple times. The car was a mechanic special and I learned that even “good” car dealers put real junk used cars out. The trans shifted very hard it was smoking out the tail pipe lots of interior damage and the car ran poorly and smelled of coolant inside. It was nicely detailed and the paint looked great as well but the mechanical side of it was 2/10 maybe. So really be careful out there with who you buy from n such

When I look for a vehicle when the question comes up, I always say I am buying this car for my girlfriend, wife, husband whatever because if I do see something wrong or have a bad feeling about the deal I can say " Well I checked it out and I am going to talk to my whoever and get back to you" or say something along those lines. It is just a way to kind of break the I do not like this car and I am not buying it, and it gives you an easy out

15:06 got a tip back when and I still swear by it now. Coffee filters are your best friend here. Just a tiny bit of yarn, tie a filter around the exhaust tips and let it idle for a bit then a rev or two. You'll know very quickly if it's spitting oil out even if you can't see a visible blue tinted cloud pouring out. Moisture won't stain the filter, while the oil will.

I would ask these questions before I buy a car, but it would feel kinda weird asking the junkyard the life of the car 😂. Most of my cars came from pull a part.

Friend of mine purchased a car from a “as is” used car lot. Come nighttime, he found out that the headlights didn’t work. I teased him for years about that one….

My personal take : the first thing I check is the oil stick - if the oil is dirty and low there's a good chance the motor burns oil - then just verify if the exhaust pipe is full of black soot which confirms the engine is burning oil - walk away unless you intend to replace the engine . Any oil leaks in the engine compartment could indicate the engine is "pumping oil" - walk away. Next check the radiator for corrosion and leaks and while the engine is cold check the rad fluid level which if low could indicate the engine is using Prestone. Walk away because a blown head gasket could be the cause. Bring a friend who knows cars well or better yet spend the money to have the car checked by a mechanic. If the seller refuses - walk away.

My 2009 Dodge Charger has been a great car for the last 8 yrs. Small issues like fuses or nails in tires, but as far as the engine, it's been awesome. (knock on wood). Also, you can't check the transmission fluid because you need a special dipstick for it. @13:11

As a retired New England professional buyer let me say your video was excellent. May I offer a couple of additions? If possible demand a cold start, listening for engine noises. Missing factory decals on the radiator support indicating crash damage or in some cases a steam cleaning, sniff trans fluid for a burned smell as well as the color, lift up/down drivers door for hinge wear. We used to buy in New York what was called "Dr's wives cars. Expensive models with low milage but lots of in/out ear there. This was very common in New England but could apply in any urban area. And I like the term mechanic. Good "ole fashioned term".