📦 PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO 📦 • DeWalt Screwdriver 40-Piece Bit Set, Impact Ready (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/LA9a2h • Horusdy 208-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/fjeGe • DAP Tank Bond Liquid Grip: bit.ly/3dHVPWK The Amazon links above are affiliate links, which means you pay the same price as always but we make a small commission, which helps out our channel - so thanks!
That tank bond stuff really saved me on a hard to reach rapidly stripping screw. After several minutes of carefully driving this cabinet screw at an awkward angle, I stopped when I realized it was stripping, watched this video and went out and got this stuff, and finished the screw in about 30 seconds. I could have saved a bunch of time if I had this from the beginning. Thanks! Good stuff.
Tank Bond is basically engine valve grinding/lapping compound. So, if your local auto parts store is close by, you can get that stuff too and it's identical. Valve lapping compound is used to grind away the valve and seat surface of a valve that is old and either pitted from heat or pitted from rust. It restores the full contact band needed to seal. It's basically liquid sandpaper. 👍
@@harrycaul2494 Sodium Bicarb is quite soft. That doesn't make sense. Fine pumice or some Silicon carbide (SiC) powder/granules does. PS The real problem is extracting 'stuck' screws, in that placement pressure helps drive it in, but fights pulling it out.
@@you2tooyou2too Bicarb just causes the superglue to harden very quickly. Makes sense if you want to glue the screw to your driver, but that's pretty unusual... maybe an option if you need to place a non-magnetic screw (like brass) in a tough-to-reach spot?
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" ru-vid.comUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
A wide rubber band works as good as the liquid grip and you can use it over and over again. If you’re driving tons of screws just keep a couple on you wrist. The best part they cost like 2 cents. 😁
Good info. I took a course in fasteners years ago when I was going to school for manufacturing engineering (never finished that degree, but got 2 in welding). My instructor was adamant that when the screw head was damaged it was “cammed out”, and “stripped out” referred to the threads being damaged.
That's accurate. I thought about using the term "cam out" but opted for "strip" since that's what more people know it by. I usually call it a stripped screw head too - I should probably start using the right term 😂
@@LRN2DIY Haha. I gave up years ago. Same thing with widescreen TVs. People call them 16 X 9, when in fact it’s an aspect ratio of 16 : 9. I just thought I’d throw it out there for the heck of it. 🤣
common language needed in the title to bring people here but agree probably the most obvious learning opportunity that was missed here and a great place to start "youve been saying it wrong the whole time kids!" that will get them to watch the rest of the video
@@LRN2DIYDo not change what you said. This person's instructor was completely incorrect. Both situations are "stripped out". To "cam out" has nothing whatsoever to do with damage to the fastener or material. The short explanation: "Stripping out" material or a fastener is to remove material that engages a tool to the fastener or the fastener to the material. "Cam out" describes two components, intended to solidly move together when force is applied to one of the components, that slip because of an inability to retain proper position and alignment between the two. This can be by design or due to damage, but in the case of damage you haven't "cam'd out" the fastener or tool, you've stripped away material that creates a solid connection between them. In fact, if you completely strip the head of a cheap fastener, your tool won't cam out at all. It will simply spin in the empty space it drill out. The long explanation: By definition, "camming out" is when two objects that are designed to interact with force in one direction separate due to force in an off axis direction. Fasteners such as bolts, screws, etc are typically designed for clockwise force to apply or install the fastener and counterclockwise to loosen or remove the fastener. On a graph this would be equal force in both the x and y axis. Any force in the z-axis will either assist in preventing cam out or cause it. A perfect marriage of tool, fastener, and material can still experience cam out without damage to any of the components. In a ratchet, the operating mechanism is a deliberate cam out of the stationary tooth. It slides over the rotary gear teeth in one direction while catching in the opposite direction. "Stripping out" is absolutely caused by damage either to the fastener, the material, or the tool. To strip is to remove. In the case of materials, soft material or material that has become soft from rot or rust can be damaged by the threads of fastener, rounding out the entire hole to the outer diameter of the threads, thereby preventing them from securing the material. The threads of a fastener can be damaged and, consequently, also not engage the material to hold it in place. Stripping a fastener, as your entire video is about, is usually when a hardened or harder tool removes softer material from the head of the fastener. That isn't camming out! You've stripped The head of the fastener, removing material intended to engage the tool to the fastener. The slip is cam out. The damage that caused it is stripping out.
Hey just an fyi but the first part you may want to ch do out the difference between Philips tip vs Reed Prince. Different tip looks almost the same slight different thickness but also sharp tip vs blunted tip. Also tapping in a tip with a hammer to clean any rust or dirt and fit better helps. I use the replaceable tips for that. Don’t want to hammer on my screwdrivers. Auto Tech.
A few tips too... Those black screws are hardened steel. They are really hard to strip, so I use them a lot more, but even the standard screws that do strip, I find using one of those impact driver helps a LOT more than drills. I think the impact action keeps the head seated into the screw and unlike drills won't just back out.
There are several videos showing the relatively new Makita impact xps bits. They seem to fit insanely well. If you absolutely must use phillips screws, I would recommend giving them a try.
I thought I bought the wrong kind of drill. I was using the wrong Phillips head, I had a pointy one and didn’t need it. Thank you! Teaching me things I shoulda learned a long time ago.
A long time ago I switched over to hex head screws because stripped screw heads were too frequent. & used the 1/4 inch nut-setter that usually came with the drill or anything you bought for it.
I would start with the fact that absolutely any drive can cam out, depending on the conditions. Thank you for the liquid grip idea, I did not know such a product.
I bought a product like that nearly 20 years ago from Sears, it was a paste with tiny carbide grit in it, and it works well. I also bought screwdrivers that have grit made on the bit, they also work very well.
I find the pozidrive no 2 will fit most pozi screws. However the Dewalt no 2 pozi i find a bit small. Torx are excellent as long as you use the RIGHT SIZE. Obvious i would have thought!
I've also heard that most of the cheap no-name Philips bits are not designed for impact driving. The Big Name bits with the color tape on the neck are the ones to use. Thanks for the tip on Tank Bond. Ordered sometoday.
Excellent video. If only people knew eh !! Things like this should be taught in schools so that when they venture out into the real world they'd stand half a chance. I was lucky that my Dad was an aviation prototype designer and engineer. By the age of 12 I was rebuilding old British seized up motorcycles, working on our privately owned biplanes, and I was flying them too. I'm a Husband and Wife team in property renovation. Screws, and nail, and my wife, don't get on well. I've showd her this video, much to her feeling insulted, but, hopefully, something might just 'click'. I'll know soon enough if the rate of problematic screws goes down !!! Videos like this seem ridiculous sometimes, but in reality, they really do have a 'once known - always remembered' . . . hopefully !!!! We need more videos like this type so thanks for that
Some advice I learned hard way, I was using wrong size bit thinking it was correct size but just poorly fitting. Example, the T25 and T27 are very close and can think the T25 is proper for the bolt even with a little wiggle room, but putting the next size up [T27] was totally perfect fit and no more slippage or rounding of fitting Tank bond looks awesome
cant believe the quality of fasteners and the metal on metal dynamics between bit and fastener wasnt discussed I cam here hoping to learn a few basic pointers about that, as from experience buying higher quality fasteners and bits has made the biggest difference for me aside from learning how to properly use the torque settings on my drill it's a whole year later I honestly think you could re-release a much updated version of this video with some key basic information thats missing then you can link to your video about how to REMOVE stripped screws lol I am just a hobbyist
Sounds like you already know the basic pointers you "cam" here looking for 😂 Why don't you just enlighten folks in the comments rather than solicit free labor from the content creator you're already gleaning free content from? 🤔💭
I am in Canada, where we mostly use the square Robertson. I have never had a problem with those, yet many people refused to use them. What are your thoughts on this?
The great discovery driving long, large, PH2 screws is to use the impact gun. With a conventional driver, you have to push more to keep the bit in when you need more torque. With the impact driver, after each hit, the bit relaxes and bottoms - you have to use a fraction of the push with an impact.
One of the best things I ever did regarding DIY projects is switching to square-drive screws. No more slipping out of slotted screws (seriously, why do those still exist? {esp. glaring at the electrical dept.}) or stripping out philips screws.
I would suggest using a small ratchet set to ensure you get the best connection as it were. A cordless drill can sometimes be too much and using the correct clutch setting can really help. Never rush or hurry a job you are doing, take time to do it properly as you will get a better result.
Thank you. i just stripped 3 screws which was incredibly frustrating. I can't get my drill to be at exactly the perfect angle because the Z bracket I'm mounting is in the way. I didn't realize the driver heads have sizes on them or that the place where you buy screws tells the driver size. Our package of driver heads that have been in our drill case for years are all the same size as the one that came attached to the drill (ph2). I didn't realize it until just now. I replaced the old one with one of the ones we've never used. I also dug through our very disorganized shelf of tools and found a set of assorted sizes which has a fatter, better fitting head, an extension to help with the angle problem, and I just ordered some tank bond on amazon. When the tank bond gets here tomorrow, those screws won't stand a chance! Thanks for making this vid.
I was trying to remove a fairly small, but long Philips head screw with my drill. It was in an awkward location and I ended up stripping the head. An experienced carpenter got it out using an impact driver with a square head bit. Pretty amazing.
For the larger Phillips screws, I typically use a small square bit. They fit perfectly into the center of the large Phillips but they don’t slip out at all allowing you to apply even more torque than the Phillips drive.
Small square bit in a Phillips works with Posidrive screws but isn’t guaranteed to work in all Phillips screws. Btw, IKEA fastener kits usually have posidrive screws, even in North America
The only tip needed: DO NOT USE PHILIPS SCREWS. Nowadays there is just no excuse to do so, square, torx, star… all are better and won’t cam out easily. The history guy channel has a full video about how Philips screws became standard just by pure coincidence around WW2… very interesting.
Start large to small, not small to large to get the best matched hex/torx bit. If the head has a Phillips and a hex head, rather drive it with a nut setter. With slotted heads, use a bit that's the same width as the slot. A Phillips bit will fit in a Pozidriv screw head, but a Pozidriv bit does not properly fit in a Phillips screw head, so rather keep your Phillips bit as your default, unless you make the effort to inspect the head. You get a tighter fit when screwing two pieces of lumber together if you pre-drill the first piece...or use the correct screw with a bare shank below the head. Use washers in high torque situations or fixing thin/soft material. Zig-zag multiple screws in wood to reduce splitting. You can never have enough screwdrivers or bits.
It's the other way around. A pz-bit will do ok on a ph-screw, but a ph-bit should never be used on a pz-screw. The PH is design to not overtorque the screw, and therfore it's easy to strip.
Awesome n informative upload. Ur vid will remind me the 4 tips of proper screw driving. Kudos. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
1:22... ,you can't use Pozidrive No:3 istead of Philips No:4 !!! One tip is that philips screws are like this one,whereas pozidrive screws have lines in between the Cross section pattern..🌟👍
The main way I try to avoid slipping/stripping is by never using Phillips head screws if I can at all avoid it. Even for drywall screws, I searched around and eventually found square drive drywall screws. The Phillips drive is just terrible.
@@keithfaulkner6319 Yeah, HD doesnt sell them. I bought mine online. Also found a square drive dimpler bit... and it works great. I will do anything to avoid phillips screws.
Proper size pilot hole is a big help. Proper depth, too - might cam out because that last half inch was into solid material. Some screws, I believe, especially ones provided with a project piece, can be made of metal that is just too soft for that project - that the manufacturer didn't anticipate the installation properly, under engineered. I don't think they understand many of us will use a drill gun. God video, though. cheers, mate...
Grind the tip off the phillips when it starts breaking out it buys you a few more unstripped screws i use torx now i color code w pc of tape on ea one t-10 is white t-15 orange t-20 ylw t-25 red t-30 blue etc save English mint cans for this and snelled bait hooks in tackle bag. Pill containers ok too!
the deal with pozidrive is not those little shoulders in between the blades, it’s that the sides of the blades are parallel unlike philips which are slightly tapered. This means that the driver doesn’t try to jump out of the screw head as torque is applied. Hence the name.
At 3:06 minutes, you show the DeWalt driver bits. Oh how I wish Dewalt would print the bit size on the yellow jacket of the bit as opposed to only labeling on the difficult to read stamped metal marking. They could be real heroes and put the size in BOTH places. It's hard to believe that no one at DeWalt has apparently ever thought to do this for their customers.
Keep a Vermont American ice bit with your kit. It has very good geometry and last forever. It will drive a standard #2 Phillips (they make all the sizes) and fits so tight you can’t shake it off. The trick is to be aware of what screws you are buying. Engineers are coming up with very clever designs that will change the world! Now There are so many kinds of Phillips screws and bits that, well I guess they’ve changed our world. I’m glad that there is a video to help work around the mess. Thanks for the video
@@samhain9394 Good luck, Sam! I'm "old school" and cringe at the lack of correct English and grammar in YT comments. I'm referring to folks born and raised in the USA, who should have benefited from free education.
Bro you have a really great channel here. I just found you recently And wow you have so many informative videos. I already follow and watch a lot of tool and DIY related content but you but you have provided education in areas those channels havent. Thank you!
Hi. This liquid grip is not nothing like filler. It is usually made out of synthetic diamonds or boric nitrades solutions. Those are almoust the same, both are very very hard, one of the hardest materials on the world. Of course it can be propably made out of something else very hard, like some kind of grinding things. I can not say for sure, what is it made of, but something like that. And the whole idea is, that this grinding stuff is kind of coarse powder, sinks in to the screwdriver bit and in to the screw. And that is how it makes more grip. Just like if think abaut skateboard or something like that. The top of the skateboard is covered "sand paper" kind of stuff. That stuff makes grip because it sinks on the bottom of shoes. Pretty much like same situation. But yeah, no matter how it works, it really works! And that is the main reason why to use it. (If want to save some money, just buy some engine valve grinding stuff. That is kind of same, and works like same. It only costs couple of bucks.
You missed a huge tip - when given the choice, just avoid Phillips and even Posidrive screws entirely. Go with square drive or torx when you have the ability to choose. You still need to use the right size bit and keep it aligned with the screw axis, but they require far less pressure to drive as they don't try to cam out like a phillips will.
Thank you very much for the tip (Tank bond), I've had several TBI's and 3 strokes. Very limited use of my right side body. This is going to be a life changer for me. Thank you again
