4 Wheeling Wet and Wild Weekend, part 1/3 

same as a landrover none existent lol

Alex West don't know what LR you have mate but my D4 handbrake works perfectly

Ronny was scaring me the way he was using that chain saw. Someone give him some lessons. I carry a electric chain saw and a electric reciprocating saw with a pruning blade (safer) and a inverter to run them. Always ready to go in a moments notice. No need to mess with gas or carburetors.....

Love old school haha.

Yep I’m not the best with the chain saw I like the axe

Get yourself a little Stihl Chainsaw

He has a Silky Katanaboy as well

Richard Orsulich When doing what he did, you are a passenger, hold on and pray.

Me too....

Mate! I have no idea why we didn’t even think about that. Winch line to tree, perfect idea!

jeepn Humvees has holes in the floor to wash out blood... probably the same case with the old GP (the original name of the jeep, get it?) To, well just a fact I figured I would share.

#noflex

It wasn’t fan damage we were worried about on this occasion it’s was more the electrical stuff in the petrol. That said you have a very good point but...

Forgive my naivety but don't most modern cars have electric thermo fans or do 79 series still have fan driven ones?

I'm certainly no mechanical expert (not qualified) but have learnt a few tips from mates etc who are mining mechanics and auto electricians. In trying to interpret your response, it seems you are referring to the same arrangement for cooling a modern engine. Thermo fans work by having a temperature sensor switch them on if used on a radiator/air-con condenser, but can sometimes be wired (usually aftermarket) to be either always on or switched off depending on application, often for intercoolers. This is different from the old rigs that had a fan belt connected to the motor hence turning the fan continuously to cool draw heat out of radiators etc. As engines became more efficient (complicated) the use of sensors and relays engages fans to draw air over the radiator, A/c condenser when specific operating temperatures are reached or the A/C is running full belt (flat out etc). Then there's viscous fans to discuss...... My main point is the fan, if it is running, can bend blades by trying to 'pull' water when in operation, and damage the radiator because the fan blades deform and touch the radiator as they spin. This applies to a wide range of cars, including make, model and year of manufacture. Try a google search of failed engines when vehicles complete water crossings not using a water bra (on the car, not the wife). When a cover is used like Ronny set up it also helps to make the bow wave which keeps an air pocket around the radiator and helps prevent the fan blades causing any damage if the fan is indeed running. Possibly id the A/C is switched off and the car has had time to cool to normal operating temps, then the radiator fan won't kick in, and no problems will occur. . No sarcasm, offence, or ridicule intended in my reply just a few thoughts to add to Ronny's tips. Take on board what you need and forget the rest. Cheers!

He does have the Silky Katana. I guess he left it at home for this trip..

One day mate one day 😂

Hope the camera is on

Their way too close on the slippery hill when he has a blowout

we were banked up as this was the second shot at this section and it didnt look like much so we just took off and thats how it happened...

Since no one has told u it pushes the center of the tread towards the rim evenly and that forces the sidewall outwards to help seat the bead

What tyre pressures do you run for slick mud? In theory higher pressures (I.e. 40Psi or more) should work better as the tyres would cut down to the firmer surface. Obviously soft mud or sand you want lower pressures for floatation.

You nailed it! I was running my street running psi which is 4Opsi. Yes, the idea is that the narrow tire can cut into the mud to get to the firmer ground below and give you better directional control and forward momentum. Wide tires tend to float on top of the mud which makes directional control difficult and of course forward momentum is lost because you are spinning more on the surface of the mud. By airing down you are compounding this problem even more by adding more floatation.

SW Idaho Overlanding 4 to

Blair Whittle I’ll try find a link for you, the Victoria government I think did a study regarding cars and flood waters, the put a Nissan patrol in a ‘pool’ of sorts and filled it up, it started to float at nearly the halfway mark, really didn’t take much and surprised the hell out of me!

reubs91 yeah I saw the same study, if the volume of water displaced equals the car Weight then it will float, however that bloke was saying that turning your AC on while doing a water crossing will increase your chances of making it float.. thats just incorrect

Blair Whittle well it does pressurise the cab, so logic would suggest it does make it much more likely it would float as no air is escaping. However I wouldn’t put money on it making any difference if someone tested it.

pretty much, that whole idea of turning the AC on is useless anyway, it would only raise the cab pressure by a minuscule amount, hardly enough to overcome the pressure of the water entering.

no restart just tow out and then check over before a restart

its more the electrics of the petrol especially the older ones. Diesel as great for water crossing but very unforgiving should water enter the motor... with a diesel its usually game over. A petrol on the other hand will have a better survival rate from water ingest but is at a higher risk of failing the crossing in general.

That’s the rev limiter light, all Ronny’s vids are redlining.

1. That's a subscribe button, turn annotations off and it will go away. 2. Old habits die hard, and when you get the conversion wrong on camera you get slammed in the comments. I'm an aussie but no matter how hard I try, I always think of people's height, tyre size and boat lengths in imperial. It's hard to change!

Geo Alberta That's because Canada's in the north hemisphere !