Thank you, it really is easy if you just split the construction into parts, a little like the real world construction methods and just applying that the Rory in a smaller world. The ability of the Cricut Maker to be able to cut the card neatly and accurately constantly producing the same every time makes for a simple job. A bit like it does all the hard work and you get the praise.
Hi new to the Chanel very good , I have just bought a circut , I am cutting out 2 MM hardboard in square’s and oblong’s only at the moment, after two hours it started to tear the board Rather that cut it , I assume I need to adjust the pressure? I notice you cut thinner card and laminate them ?, also you design on a separate package and import , may I ask what software you use , thank you rog
Hi Roger, yes, I do use thinner card and laminate it. It dies really depend on what I am making and also the material I am using. In many cases it will be a stronger object if it is built up of several layers as opposed to a single layer, a bit like plywood except the grain changes by 90deg every layer in plywood. The next thing is to consider the blade. There are standard blades and there are deep cut blades. Then next thing is to consider in the settings is the amount of passes per cut. Think of it you using a craft knife to cut something and you score three or four times before you go all the way through. I do use a separate design package to make my designs and that is because the Cricut interface is very limited for complex designs and although may be possible it will take an awful lot longer and is more tedious. My go to software is no longer in production although may be available by looking around. It is Serif Drawplus, the version I use is X8 but is no longer supported by Serif. They do have a new range of design software which I also have and that is in the Affinity Range of packages. Any artwork design software can be used and I would suggest whatever you are comfortable and proficient in using. You just need to export your design as either an SVG or JPEG file and upload into Design Space as a cut file. Make sure it is sized as required and then select MAKE IT. Hope that helps but if you need any further help just contact me on geoff@jumblelaneprinting.co.uk
@@silviaborgers4105 I must say it can be daunting using the Cricut machines first of all and getting used to the software but in reality it is a simple and quick learning curve and you are only a phone call or message/email away from help
Hi, the glue I used was Rocket Card Glue. This dries almost immediately. I have the small bottles with a needle applicator do I decant the glue into these for easier use. Geoff
I have always fancied a cutter, but then it is in the group with laser cutter, 3D printer and CNC machine, all a lot of money and I know I would end up diluting my railway modelling time learning and playing with them! One day I will bite the bullet and go for one! I think for the size of the model you would make, thicker laser board or plywood would be better, so would need a laser cutter. Could be one to suggest to Justin?
Hi there - good video, I have been looking for some practical videos for how to use one of these cricut machines for making model railway buildings, so thanks for posting this. Could I please ask you a few questions: - Which blade are you using here, and what is the cut width? And presumably you need to take this into account when specifying the size(s) of the shapes you are cutting? - In your experience so far, how small a width can you leave between cuts? For example, I'm wondering if this could be used to cut window frames/glazing bars? - What is the thickest card you have successfully cut so far? I have read that these machines can now cut card/wood up to 2.4mm thick? - Why did you have to resize your images after importing? Is that just down to the particular design software you were using? Thanks, Ed
Hi Ed, firstly I used the standard cut blade. This is not the knife blade that rotates so it is not limited to width of cut or how close the cuts are. I used a card similar to the Cricut thick card which is about .8mm hence why I used two pieces and laminated them. As for window frames I have used three methods. The first being similar to the way I did the card in the video but used only one layer. The second I cut copy paper to the shape of the frame and laminated it in a laminating machine to give the effect of the glass and lastly I used print and cut on self adhesive paper which was stuck down on the clear plastic cut from blister packaging. For the latter two I have a video showing this.
Oh and by the way, although I do have a knife blade that rotates and cuts like you mention I have not yet tried it but yes, it is possible to cut a good couple of millimetres even balsa wood.
Resizing is only required if you need to be specific about the item you are cutting. In general I design a drawing on one software which one s easier to work with for drawing and to the correct dimensions. This is exported as an SVG and then imported into the Cricut software. Because the hike is of high resolution and pretty big it ends up as being physically too big do it is re-sized to the correct dimensions
@@JumbleLane Hi Geoff, thanks for replying so quickly :) I had a look online at the different blades ... so, in these videos of yours, are you using the "Fine Point Blade"? Or is it the "Deep Point Blade"? Which is the standard one that comes with the machine? Also, I'm a bit confused about the "Knife Blade" ... does that rotate? It wasn't clear to me. But anyway, are you suggesting that the "Knife Blade" makes wider cuts? And maybe you are more limited in how close the cuts can be when using the "Knife Blade"? Oh, and I found your other video on making window frames - that was also interesting to see your different approaches. Thanks, Ed :)
@@edtapper8260 I normally have the deep point blade in and use it just about for everything as there is not much difference to be honest. Yes the knife blade I refer to is the rotating blade. I assume as it is controlled to turn as it cuts rather than swivel like a castor as in the standard blades the hardware in the machine cannot place the blade close to another cut, also on some materials there are more than one pass of the blade on a single cut line and with the rotating knife blade this is on almost every material it is used for. Once you have selected the material you are cutting the software tells you what blade to use.
The Maker is the flagship model and has all the new tools for different materials and jobs. When I got mine there was only news that there would be tools available soon, now there are several different tools already available. Certainly worth the investment for a serious model maker. One note though, the software you use to produce the jobs has a steep learning curve but you can do a lot of design work using your preferred software then importing the graphics into their software to do the work. I will possibly produce a video demonstrating this soon
