Thanks a lot Gary appreciated your fast response, From Kurdistan Region (North of Iraq), i would like to fix the gear because her e there is no tech to fix it only change, so i will try my best to figure out what i can do. again thank you Mr. Gary.
Thanks for the vid I'm a mech also but never got into auto trans. Had been seeing the trans guys pull them out several times after a build that was back in the 70's & 80's didn't want to be doing that so never got in them. But now with your help & others on utube I thinking i will get into them. Thanks for taking the time & making the vid. I have tried making vids but makes the job over twice as long & I just need to get the job done.
Couldn't shift into 4th. There ended up being a bad solenoid, a fairly big chunk of metal had it caught up and jammed. After I found the bad solenoid I brought the trans to a shop near me that works on BMW's exclusively and had them make sure everything else was okay. Replaced all of the gaskets, friction disks, filters, and of course the bad solenoid. They said the trans should give me about 25-50k miles before it starts falling apart again (I'm hard on my car, I bring it to track events). They seem pretty sure I will have to get a new one. I saved a lot of money by doing most of the assembly myself, though.
EXCELLENT video ; ) . I have a Omega B 1992 4L30e no codes, 1st and 2nd reverse gear good, 3rd and D gear slips, and here in my country no one can fix automatic transmission the only salutation for them is to change it with another one , i am planning to tear down the gear box depend on this great Video .
Very informative video. I have a 95 BMW E36 with the 4L30E. Car has 269,900 miles on it and has become project car for my son. I know the transmission is in need of a rebuild and shift kit. You have taken a lot of the fear of tearing into this. Thank You Gary.
I guess first thing to ask is: Who I should order the complete rebuild kit from and second what brand so I can have some positive results. I live in Anthem, Arizona.
I order from a company called transtar. There web site is WWW.Transtar1.com They offer TransTec kits, this is OE quality parts, i use these kits all the time, its my first choice.
I sure admire you for sharing the skills and experience you have acquired over many years I assume and i just want to say that you are a great contribution to humanity for doing so and although you might be bored or tired of it now it is still something you should be recognized for as far as I'm concerned!!!ttyl "G"
Would you consider this transmission as reliable as the GM Turbo Hidramatic 400 or the 700R4? I'm planning install a remote hydraulic 15 microns filter and an auxiliary oil cooler . Wonder if this transmission also came in trooper diesel version...
Opened up my 4l30e to find out the band is pretty bare of any friction material. Along with some of the frictions from one of the drums. So that’s why I didn’t have any forward gears? What else should I be looking at to replace. Would it be bad of me not to flush and clean everything? Cuz I just did it not too long ago.has very little material in the pan
Hi Gary, Yes I pulled the pan as well and replaced the filter. BTW, it was flushed twice, with shifting in and out of gears.There were some tiny metal particles on the magnet, but not excessive.
Hi Gary, my brother and I did the rebuild of a 4L30e. Before this, the car was going into "false neutral" when trying to go from 2nd to 3rd. When the engine got close to 3000 rpm in second, it'd flare and then would go into false neutral; after that, it wouldn't engage in any gear unless the speed went down a lot. After driving the car with the electronics disconnected the problems were still there, it was almost obvious to everybody I asked that the problem was mechanical and not electronics related, so we decided to do the rebuild with a deluxe kit (Transtec, Raybestos, Exedy, etc). I trusted my brother with this job because he works everyday assembling and disassembling industrial turbines, pumps, compressors, etc. and has all the tools at home. So the job was done by a pro mechanic, tho without experience on auto trannies. I was there to help and point out things in case he missed something (didn't happened) and we followed all the manuals and videos available. After opening the trans, the internals looked mostly in good shape, except for an obviously damaged reverse clutch fiber plate and some light friction marks between the 2nd and 3rd drums. We tested the drums and working condition of the gears after installing the new clutch packs, seals and stuff. All worked ok, or so we thought... On the first test drive, the trans felt great, smoother than ever, reverse and first engaged perfectly without delaysshift . First to second went great too, but then as I was accelerating very gently hoping to go into 3rd, the car just kept gaining rpms, and then it flared so I let the pedal go. The first time it did this after the rebuild it seemed to me that a metalic noise was felt, but I'm not sure. Two later attempts had the same results, no strange noises at all, only the engine revving up. In winter mode it moved ok but when it should have done the first shift (to 4th?) it did the same false neutral thing. Well, the problem is still there, exactly like before the rebuild. Yesterday I got a new 2-3 solenoid; I'll install it tomorrow with my last hopes of not having to drop the tranny again... Do you have any hint of what could be gone wrong? Iknow we should have looked after the electronics before doing the rebuild, but having 300000 kms on the trans it was something to be done sooner than later. Is there a real possibility of being an electronic issue, considering that the Check Trans light never went on? I did read somewhere that codes are triggered in situations like these only when the gas pedal is pressed during 3 seconds or more when the trans is slipping... We have an scanner like this www.launchcrp.com/products/launch-crp919x but we couldn't get it to connect to the tcm. I want to check all the electronics involved before starting to even think about that second drum... I'd really like to hear comments and suggestions from you, thanks!
Well, finally replaced the solenoid B and voilà! We should have started from there, tho the tcm never noticed that the solenoid was malfunctioning... The trans works flawlessly, much better than before the rebuild. I hope it will last another 300000 kms 😄
hi gary. My car is opel frontera b 3.2. There are faults p1850 and p1870. hits when the oil is cold. No problem when it gets hot. turbine or pad or sensor?
Gary you do an awesome job of showing a tear down and explaining everything and I really appreciate you taking the time to do this for your subscribers. Would you consider doing a video showing each step to re assemble it?
I recently picked up a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo LS .. It has the same tranny.. Was wondering if maybe you had a quick answer... When I put it in drive it doesnt want to go.. But if I throw it down in low it takes off no problem and after I'm going around 20mph I throw it back in drive and it drives fine until I come to a stop.. Then I have to put it back in low to take off .. Would you have a recommendation of what it might be before I go spending a bunch of money unnecessarily ?
Gary, its a '01 Isuzu Rodeo. Also, If I manually shift to 1st, it is solid, when I shift to 2nd, 3rd or D it flares and never really engages, although it will settle in somewhat. I've ordered both A&B solenoids and a valve body rebuild kit. I'm hoping this will get me by for a little while as I do believe I'll need to rebuild in the near future as I am guessing the clutches may be burned by now..
You could see if high performance frictions are available, maybe add a shift kit and speak to a torque converter rebuilder to see what can be done. Not sure whats available in hard parts for performance, the pumps tend to wear, i would look at that closely and change the pump gears.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I have a question if you could answer it. I was replacing the A & B shift solenoids and broke one of the roll pins that hold them in. If I remove the transmission valve body on a 1997 BMW E39 528i with a 4 speed 4L30E automatic transmission made by GM to get out the broken roll pin, will I need to replace the valve body gaskets when I put it back on?
Hi Gary , I have a 2001 isuzu rodeo that slips when trying to go into third, meaning first is ok,then a shift into second is ok, but around 30mph, i just get rpm increase and no speed increase on the road.Fluid was black, magnet was caked with sludge debris. solenoids were replaced along with filter and fluid. once im in second and it's time for third, the vehicle completely slips, its like im in neutral. is this indicative of the 3rd clutch pack being burned up, and will an overhaul be needed?
Gary, great vid.. at 40:59 you spoke of a sonics pump bushing. can you give me the part number please. and also the torque convert clutch metal ring that is better than the plastic one. would've liked to have seen you reassemble the unit. did you ever find out what the issue was? Did the rebuild solve the first speed shifting?
+Mike Pratali The sonnaxs part number for the bushing is 54253-01, the torque flight 6 input locking metal ring is much better than the solid teflon ring, the teflon ring may shrink and cause a 1870 code to produce. Remember on that pump bushing its oversized so it has to be honed or sanded out to fit the converter neck, also do you have a line up tool for the pump(i cant remember if i showed that on the video) Gary
One question: I'm tearing down my 4l30e, but I am having trouble getting the the portion of the case with the auxiliary solenoid the let go of the larger section of case. When I tap the case with a hammer like you at 18:30, nothing moves. I have already removed the bell housing, all the through bolts, the overdrive, and the wiring harness. Is there something else that I need to undo?
Thanks! I will whack it harder with the hammer then. I am not planning to rebuild this particular transmission. When i pulled the pan off, it was full of soupy ATF and chunks of metal. I'm just tearing it apart because i want to see what actually broke apart. And i am using its guts to make a couple lamps.
Mr. Ferraro, would a tight or lose band on this cause third gear to "slip"? I replaced the A & B Shift solenoids and third gear slips bad. I adjusted the band, but maybe it's too tight or something. If you were near, I'd bring it to you. I drove on winter mode for a while, maybe that's the issue. Thanks for your videos and if you want to give me a tip, I won' t hold you to actual troubleshooting. My next move after readjusting the band is to take in for diagnostics. Keep up the professionalism and unique style in your videos!
Hey Gary, I have a 4l30e in my 94 e36 325is BMW. It had the lifetime BMW build in it and apparently didn't need to her serviced...WRONG!! Well I changed the fluid and now it seems to go into "Limp Mode" aka 3rd gear only. I thought it was the shift solenoids so I changed those out and put a new filter and new build and it still seems to intermittently go into 3rd? There was a little clutch debris and black sludge but no an unusual amount considering the car has 190K miles on it and never been rebuilt Your thoughts ?
Hi Gary, Great video. Have some experience engine mechanicals but no experience rebuilding transmissions. I have a '99 passport automatic and it's slipping on 3rd and 4th. Do I need to buy the manual? I saw one at amazon. What would be a good rebuild kit? Is this bmw trans identical to my passport?
I have a 1997 BMW 328i with this 4l30e transmission, it was shifting hard from 2nd to 3rd and holding 2nd longer than any of the other gears so I changed the A and B solenoids and filter when I finished and went to test drive it got worse! I think it was stuck in 2nd gear because it took off slow and I didn't feel or hear it shift. 3rd gear disappeared, when it shifted for 2nd it went out of gear?! Neep help idk what to do, im going to try to drop the pan again and check if the solenoids are properly installed or connected
I just found your site and I have a question that I hope you will reply to. I have a 4l30-e automatic transmission that I need to change out the seal right behind the torque converter that has the 3 screws in it when you take the converter out. I am stumped and do not want to mess anything up, plus how do you change the bushing out as well. so that is why I am asking you. Thank you
To change the bushing, you have to take the bellhousing off and take the pump apart. Now here is the thing with the pump bushings, it is common for these units to leak from the front because of the pump bushing. When i rebuild this transmission, i do not use the standard pump bushing, i have had transmissions come back on me leaking from the front. There is a company called Sonnax, they make a special pump bushing that has to sanded or honed out to a certain clearance to avoid a leak from the front. I press the bushing in, try it on the converter neck to see how tight it is, then i begin to sand the center until it slides over the neck and i have the clearance inbetween the bushing and converter neck. If you change the bushing look at how the original one is in, i believe there is an open channel and you have to make sure the bushing gets pressed in below the open channel. Gary
Hello Gary I have a 4l30e on a BMW 528i I have a normal 1 to 2 no 3rd and no 4th shift but if I do it in manual is able to shift a little bit better some times into 3rd and 4th once is in 4th I can down shift into 3rd and shift into 4th with no problem when it down shift from 4th gear to first in drive position you can feel all the gears down shifting
Hi Gary, Ok I have more data for you. I live in a very hilly area with a 18 mile ride into town on a 2 lane road. I drove the vehicle today and for the first part of the day it shifted positive into 1st and 2nd. 3rd it went into but slipped a little, then overdrive seemed ok, all while in "D"..I parked it for 4 hours then went to drive it. Reverse was fine but when in "D" it slipped in 1st and overall had difficulty shifting into all forward gears. i got a Check Trans/Check Engine light. I had my diagnostic OBD tester and pulled the code; P0756 Solenoid B stuck off-Guess it needs to be replaced? May as well do Both solenoids at this point? Any help would be great-Thanks for your help Gary.
Gary Ferraro yes Auburn NY drove the 95 trooper up from Florida last October and blew the head gasket on the 3.2 sohc then swapped a 3.8 2nd series engine in and the transmission lost the low gears driving up a mountain road 2 weeks ago pulling a pop up camper. Lol
Gary Ferraro yea only reverse I was in 1st low 4 wheel drive when I got in some washed out roads and the bouncing back and forth with the trailer broke something was really loud then stopped driving
Gary I have a 1998 BMW 528i. Well my issue with my transmission is that when I put it in drive it'll just rev up and then it'll grab 1st gear hard and it feels like its slipping also once it does grab. It'll shift into 2nd fine but 2nd feels like its slipping also. 3rd and 4th are fine though. Can the bands be the problem or the shift solenoid? How about the transmission filter and oil can that cause it to do that?
Hi Gary I have an 01 isuzu that will have poor acceleration from a stop but only after it heats up 30-45 minute drive. Otherwise shifts fine. Like a bad stator clutch poor take off, but how would heat affect this? what parts would i focus on replacing during tear down?
hi Derek i have the same problem with my axiom 2002, did you find the solution to the problem? If so, can you tell me how to fix it? my email adrian.perflo@gmail.com thanks
I'm currently working on a ar-25 , basically a 4l30e, trans was built before and did not drive, tore it apart to encounter the overrun drum not applying and also the low brake actuator bleeding out pressure, the kit utilised was probably transtec due to colour of input shaft seals and logo on gaskets...the steel ring for band actuator being new, did not secure pressure well and possibly not stop the low band, thus burning up the band and scorching the drum...if this drum is not held in first or second, car will be lazy to pull off and also slip in second...it seems that the bore for this piston wears drastically and probably best to get a square cut oring seal to replace the metal ring seal on piston, possibly putting in a lower spring rate return spring for this piston also...
I rebuilt my 4l30e because of no forward motion in any gear even in manual 1st. I was not successful but could drive it in manual 1, 2nd then could put it in D and cruise at higher speeds. Eventually it would not move forward in any gear again. I’m going to attempt it again. What area should I be paying closer attention to.
Gary, during your tear down after you saw the band, why did you think there was a problem with the solenoid? Do you recommend getting an oem or one lined with Kevlar?
They may not click, some solenoids you have to check with a small amout of air through the snout and then energize the solenoid, the you should hear the ball seat or you will hear the air flow will flow free or be blocked.
Hey Gary i have a question. I have a 97 bmw 528 and ive had the car for 3 years. Since i got it the transmission isnt right. The part where you mentioned in the vid sayin the bosch solenoid would cause problems, like what? My problem is when i put the car into D, i can feel it go into first then it pops out and into the next gear before i can get going. I have replaced my pressure control solenoid but not sure if it was bosch. this whole time i thought i was in limp mode but ive figured that im not as i can do highway speeds and the car does every other gear just fine, it just wont go or stay in first.. so i take off slow. i have to put the gear selector into 2nd to take off "faster" in a way.. my obd reader says p0748 pressure controle solenoid a electrical. is this an electrical issue or do you think something is stuck in the way causing it to not fully engage? ive asked indy shops and they told me its a control box under the drivers feet in the carpet but theres no box there as ive looked.. If at all you did give me advice and i go ahead and it works i would paypal you.. im just fed up with scratching my head. thanks. one more thing, the transmission in this video is identical to mine as far as having 2 seperate fluid pans and the smaller one being for the solenoids. but im not sure if my trans is GM or ZF, if thats a matter or not. thanks!
Hi, it comes back asap. i have my own obd reader and even had the indy shop use their bmw version, and the shop at my work. sometimes the code comes back before i turn the engine on and other times comes back after the first drive. but the problem never resolves.
If the code comes right back, this is an electrical problem, which means the problem is either the solenoid, wires or computer. You could start by unplugging the trans, making sure none of the pins are pushing in on both sides of the connector, then maybe ohm the solenoid at the trans connector to check the internal wiring harness.
even if one of the obd readers says "stuck open" next to the code? i know the main control solenoid is new as i put it in maybe 2 years ago? but ill check into it. since you mentioned bosch and im not sure its bosch. got it at oreillys. and ill check the pins. i know what your talkin about on the pins, same thing happens to the radio harness. ill just have to decide a day to do it. thank you much man.
How do you know where the check balls go when I took my clave body out 3 fell out an I have no idea exactly where they go I bought a manual but it's very unclear where they say to put them
Gary, hello. I replaced my 4L30e with a used one and it has been running good. Today, I removed the overdrive accumulator cover to replace it and noticed there was only the shaft and no piston behind it. I have the piston off of my old one that I can use. Did some not come with this or why would someone remove it? Thanks.
Gary, well the piston was in there but had been inserted backwards by the last person who must have changed the cover. I am not sure if that was intentional or not. I thought it was missing before I figured this out because I can hardly see up in there.
@@GaryFerraro this is an expensive tranny. A friends trooper stopped running and gave it to me has 150000. What special tools will i need ? How much is a kit for this one?thanks
Hi there, I am doing a transmission fluid change on my car, I am trying to learn a bit about cars. Just wondering what the point is of having 2 oil pans and any tips and tricks for a fluid change, cheers
Gary, question. I need to replace the o-ring near the end of the input shaft/turbine shaft. No one locally carries these...not even the Honda dealership. I found a general use o-ring in an o-ring pack at Advance Auto that I think is the right size. Is there something super special about these that requires a specific material or dimension? Or is a rubber o-ring that fits good enough? Thank you!
No special o-ring, just make sure it sticks up above the shaft so it will seal, (not too much where it may tear) also make sure it's not to loose fitting either
At 16:59, that 3 tab plastic washer. I found it cracked in half, in the front rectangular fluid pan couple years ago. Does that make sense? Why would it split in half? I saved the old washer. What if the washer is gone, what effect on the trans? Vehicle is a 1996 Trooper 4WD with the 4L30e. Is a metal washer available and the number for it? What is with this plastic stuff...
Dear sir, I'm working on a 1999 Isuzu rodeo with the 4l30e trans-in the video did you say that the low band Solenoid was in the large pan? and if so where will I find the TCC Solenoid-large pan or small? While I'm in there I'm going to change the fluid-filter 1-2 and 3-4-Solenoids and the TCC Solenoid and the Low Band Solenoids-Some people have told me that there is a 5th Solenoids in there but no one can tell me what it is called or where it is- would you know what it is called and where the 5th one is? Do you think that an external cooler and fan would be good for this trans?
Band solenoid and shift are located in the large pan. Small pan is TCC and EPC solenoid, The epc solenoid is very hard to get and expensive, i usually do not change this solenoid, i change the other 4
@@GaryFerraro thank you so much for the info-I have been told that the 4l30e is a peace of junk to start with-would it be a good ideal to install a trans cooler and a fan?
just then and IN the snow with the same result. check transmission light came on I killed the engine and waited a few minutes and it drove home fine. also I didn't mention the gear indicator light on the dash wouldn't move out of park. I am afraid to change the trans fluid because I have heard several people say it will cause problems none of which were mechanics but I cannot afford a new transmission if it does tear up. by the way Thanks for taking the time to converse with me
Hi Gary, I've got a 1997 Opel Calais 2.6 Dual Ram that uses a GM4L30E transmission. Currently, the transmission is in need of an overhaul and I'm having difficulties in finding the exact specs for my transmission as there are several variants to the GM 4L30E transmission. However, judging from how the transmission filter from my Opel looks, it is exactly the same as the one used in the 4-speed auto BMW E36. My question is, are most components like the gaskets, clutch etc the same across all the GM 4L30E transmission?
Question, where is the car located? U.S I wanted to ask my supplier about your car, depending on the year, the 3rd clutch has different thickness, also the hydraulics changed in 2000, there are different gaskets, you have to becareful, they have to matched up against the plate. The stator gaskets in the o/d housing, have to watch on that, they give more than one set in the kit, you have to know what to look for.
Hi Gary, thanks for getting back to me. A little intro on the car, it is actually a Holden(Australia) but rebadged an Opel by GM when it came to the Malaysian market. I have also tried contacting Holden but due to the age of the car, they have no records on the specs. The car is in Malaysia by the way. The current problem with the transmission is that during acceleration, the auto box has difficulty up-shifting. Most of the time, I have to manually shift into 3rd and only then does it up-shift with a loud thud. Over the months, it had gotten worse that it does not up-shift anymore even manually. Can you please advice on what could be the problem and the parts that need replacing?
Ok, so here is the scenario. Accelerating from a stand still the car moves fine, then halfway through the acceleration the rpm goes up high but the power is not transmitted to the wheels. It feels like the engine is completely detached from the transmission. You can even free rev it but the power does not go to the wheels at all. This is the point when I'll shift the gear lever from D into 3rd and only then the gearbox kicks in with a thud. After that, there is power to the wheels. The transmission has had its fluid changed a couple of times with Castrol ATF Dex III but still the problem persists. The fluid level is also maintained at an optimum . My guess is that it shifts from 1st to 2nd but has difficulty engaging 3rd. I've also not received any transmission codes except for a check engine light.
This video was quite helpful in helping me identify the location of the selective thrust washers, the front one with three tabs and the other behind the center support. They are both identified as #12 in the parts breakdown so it was very interesting to hear your explanation of the aft one as having no tabs. I found two broken segments of the tabbed one in my auxiliary pan.. Can you tell me how that washer might effect operation of the transmission? Might it contribute to pressurization or slippage issues? Thanks! ...
+Gary Ferraro I am guessing that the hub you mention is the overrun clutch housing. It appears to have no retaining ring to keep it from forward movement on the turbine shaft and making metal-to-metal contact with the back of the center support assembly.. Prior to loosing propulsion entirely, while trying to drive up on the vehicle ramps to lift one side, i was diagnosing slippage problems which came on suddenly and persisted, even without the TCM connected. All caused by low fluid a classic dumb move.. Thanks for the input...
+Gary Ferraro Thanks,, It appears that, in all selected gears, pressure to that piston is present forcing the drum forward against the three pronged selective thrust washer, and rotational movement is always present. So, the absence of that thrust washer would cause rapid metal to metal wear.. So the test drive of my vehicle around the block three times may not have been a good idea. Trips to the store would seem very damaging... Can i take the economic route and split the case to just install the thrust washer and look for the missing piece and re-assemble without disturbing how the other parts of the transmission were assembled and functioning? Thanks
Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge, is there alot of changes in these transmissions though out the years? Is a 91 essentially the same as the 99?
They changed the hydraulics in either 99 or 2000. the lock-up solenoid and i believe the EPC solenoid was changed too. Lock -up solenid may have been changed in 97, not sure on that. Do you plan on putting a later trans in your car?
Yes, I found a donor car that is a 92 and mine is a 91, same model same transmission, I was tempted to try a tear down on mine but there seems like alot of ways to make a miss step without the right tools and experience. Greetings from AZ.
Hey Gary, I'm hoping you can answer a question for me. I got a Honda passport recently and it had intermittent shifting issues. I changed the filter and gaskets on both pans. Fluid looked like this 4L30e except not much debris in the pan other than magnet had a little. It shift great from 1 to 3 now but won't stay in 4th above 50 mph. I ordered the 2 shift solenoids to replace them this weekend. Should I replace any other solenoids?
@@GaryFerraro it's a 2000 with 174000 miles. I had it scanned a couple weeks ago and it didn't show anything. But once when it acted up the check trans light came on and it was banging into 2nd and 3rd gears. The light was out next time I drove it and it shifted normal again. I drove it all day today and it was shifting normal except for 4th gear. That wasn't the case before I changed the Filter and trans fluid. I'll have them run the codes again when I get a chance.
whats a selective gasket? ANd being somewhat mechanical and having a 4l30 tranny that needs to be gone through i was thinking i might give it a go. Any recommendations or advice? Isuzu rodeo 3.2 2001 2wd
@@GaryFerraro its shuttering bad when stepping on it while at a stop if i gun it or even if im in a lwer gear and punch it it shutters. I put Lucas treatment in it and it helped but then again i am really easy on the car. I will be putting some serious miles on it soon and want it to be dependable as can be. Trying to get a lil more miles out of it before i do anything. I was going to put it into Aamco and suck it up and get hit $ but then i want to be able to buy and sell isuzu Rodeo's and troopers as a side gig. I figured if i learned the tranny rebuilds on the 4l30s i could save some money. Thoughts?
Gary, just what the doctor ordered. EXCELLENT video. I have a '01 Isuzu 4L30e no codes, did a complete flush, 1st and 2nd gear good, 3rd gear slips. Is this a worn 3rd gear clutch issue?
Great video Gary, I am working on a 4L30E on a 95 Honda passport and the overdrive housing is damaged. The original is stamped GM 64-01 having a hard time finding a match. I found a overdrive case stamped GM 64-04B it looks identical minus the dipstick hole. Would know if I can use the case in lieu of the original case ?
Thanks for the video. I am still debating on trying to rebuild the transmission on my 97 Rodeo. It shifts fine in reverse and in to neutral and drive. but it won't shift out of first gear. When I engage the winter button it is like it's in neutral and even rolls backward. Do you think it toast or some electrical problem? When I get it rev'd up to 3500 rpms its like it disengages and wont go back in 1st gear until I go from 30mph to about 10mph. It will go back to first gear and thats all it will do. Hoping its electrical so I dont have to try this. Thanks !!
Gotcha. Thanks! I have not pulled any codes yet. I will do that next week. No check engine light or transmission light is one. The 'Check Trans' light comes one when I rev it up to 3500 rpms and get up to 30 mph. but it goes off once I turn the motor off and crank it up again. I found out that it is leaking from the fluid lines out of the radiator. Not much but enough to make a small 6" wide puddle after idling for 15-20 minutes.
Peace Thanks so much for the video I have two questions. 1. Is it just like the chalk of Isuzu Trooper? 2. Do you have a video on how to put the chalk back properly? Thank you
@@GaryFerraro I'm talking about Isuzu Trooper l430e gearbox. I was looking for someone to repair the gearbox and there is no professional to fix the chalk
Gary Ferraro are you going to make a video on how to put it back together,I'm taking my trans apart,But don't know it it will go back together,Any particular detail I should look for when putting it back together would be apreciated,thanks for your replie
Thee is a company in miami called ATSG, they may have a manual for reassembly, certain things have to go in certain places, you may want to look into that
Hi I have a 2002 Isuzu rodeo that shifts good but won't reverse, it shifts into reverse and if you give it gas you can feel it try to move backwards but can't it also stops the engine from revving it boggs the engine, almost like it's in forward and reverse, any thoughts ? No codes
Hi gary, one question I rebuild my transmission 4l30e trooper, but when I put in reverse works fine but when I put it in drive the wheels lock won't go forward,I pull the transmission out again check everything I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, all my Sprague are good lock and realese the way they supposed to work please help rhanks
I didn't took the valve body off because it was only sleeping in third gear so I replaced the seals and clutches,but reverse works fine and I think reverse works also in neutral I can see the wheels moved in neutral like is reverse but when I put in D it feels likes goes in but the wheels locks immediately and I can't moved the wheels if I put it D it feels like somebody holding the brakes I took the transmission out twice to correct the problem but every time I installed back it does the same thing
hello gary, i recently rebuilt my bmw's 4l30e. replaced all clutches gaskets and seals. i did this because there was an occasional shudder in 1st upon take off, and reverse would take foever to engage. well now all those problems are solved, but now i have a whine, as soon as engine starts, there is a whine in ALL gears, constant and rpm dependent. what could it be? i dont remember the original position of the pump gears, will a new set of gears solve this, do the gears have to face the pump housing of the torque converter? thank you, any help appreciated
Could be pump noise, im assuming the pitch of the noise changes with engine rpm, do you remember which way you placed the gears, were the tabs for the gears closer to you or more in the pocket of the pump? (the tabs that the converter attaches too so the pump spins) What did you do with the filter? noise is there cold and hot?
Gary Ferraro Hello, yes, the pitch of the noise changes with rpm and does not go away, hot or cold. noise seems to be coming from the front of the trans aswell. i put both gears with dots facing up, away from the pump pocket, are the dots supposed to be aligned?. The tabs for the converter are right in the middle, no offset, both sides of the gears are identical exept for the dots. my old oil filter is long gone. thank you!
yes i aligned the pump and replaced pump gears, problem turned out to be a rice sized metal speck wedged in the planetary gears, thanks you so much for the tips! helped alot
Hello gary, i recently rebuilt my 4l30e transmission, and after a few months i started noticing a short low whine whem coming to a stop. yesterday on my way home it started making a long whine that happens only thru first gear and the beggining of second, pitch varies with rpm, also seems to not occur if i take off faster from a stop. no whine noise in neutral or park, only something that sounds like a gurgle or knocking, goes away when in gear. Seems to shift fine though. Any ideas? Thank you
Gary Ferraro it is heard in both sir, cold start all the way to operating temp. In parking and neutral i hear a light rattle whem in lightly rev the engine but no whirring, whirring occurs only in forward and reverse gear under acceleration and idle speed
Hi, I need your help. I have a Vauxhall Omega 2002 with the same gearbox. I have a problem identifying washer from 16:57 on my gearbox. My washer doesn't have any tabs, does it mean that they snapped off? In the catalogue I found that there are washers with 3 tabs and with no tabs that have the same part number. I am using JPAT catalogue. With no tabs (1969-up)(part no. 24211AC), with 3 tabs (1987-up)(part no. 24211BB). The pump looks exactly the same as yours, it has 3 groves for the tabs. What should I do? Also I can't find the washer without tabs anywhere. I believe that only the thickness matters in case of this washer?
Where can I buy the one without tabs? It seems that its impossible to find it and I need it badly. As it turned out the pump washer has tabs, i don't know why I got so confused, the other one doesn't. Thank you.
UK, but I am happy to pay for postage from any location. Can you quickly look at this PDF please: images.omegaowners.com/downloads/Autobox_Docs/4l30e.pdf My goal is to change all seals, all o-rings and all plastic washers which snapped off in my previous gearbox after 140K miles causing huge damage. Are there any other plastic parts which can break in this gearbox? The number 600 is the black washer with 3 tabs. The number 603 has no washers right? I am asking because I put the gearbox back together as I have very little space in my garage at the moment. Are there any other plastic parts which can break in this gearbox? Thank you for your time.
I have a 2001 Trooper with the exact operational issues as described here. Out of time so I am having a shop rebuild, but what was the actual problem here. I want to make sure it is done correctly.
After opening up my 4l30e from a Isuzu trooper, I found that my brake band assembly friction material was flaking off in chunks. I replace it along with the reaction drum. I also replace the pwm solenoid. I was careful and made sure the sprag only rode one way and was careful to align the marked teeth on the planetary pinions. So this is how she’s ( Mis) behaving. In “D” , 1st works, but going into second, it flares. So I try manual “L”(1st), good “1”(2nd), it flares then locks up. “2”(3rd), it flares. What do u think I should look at? Do line pressure test?
In the “D” range, starts out in first, then flares going into 2nd, but never makes it, so doesn’t lock up. Also has very slow engaging into reverse, eventually does but then flares in reverse.
Gary Ferraro you think I might have tore a sealing ring, on the shaft? Would it have anything to do with the servo piston assembly? I wasn’t completely satisfied when I adjusted it(40 in inch pounds, then backed it off exactly 5 times)
hello, i have this gearbox on my opel omega 3.2L V6, the third and fourth speed pass with jerkily, do you know what is the problem ? need drain ? or change the two soleoids ? what is the Tork for the gasket please ? thank you very much :)
@@GaryFerraro the 3rd slip is what my 99 Isuzu is doing doing been dealing with it for 8 years. It's random that it does it ...but it still runs great have over 200k on the vehicle
Hey Gary, I have a 4L30 -E and i had a small mishap with a gate stop which damaged the larger pan underneath. I took it to get fixed and the mechanic brought it back and i drove it with him and it worked fine in all selections Economy ,Manual and Sports...I work at home and didn't drive the car for two days after I got it back..now it just starts and idles but won't engage in Drive or Reverse....what could be the issue?! Thanks for any help.
@@GaryFerraro yes, 99 528i , 4L30e, the tcc required by rockauto is a double solenoid with a wire harness, the car at 75mph hovers just above 3000rpm. thanks
@@GaryFerraro as per rockauto, there is a lock-up solenoid, and the tcc solenoid which is a dual piece, where are those located? thx for your prompt reply, see my other reply
I have an issue with 1rst going into second when I release the gas pedal and rpms drop it then shifts hard into second and I feel the rear end or u joint slam hard
I'm thinking it may be the sensor next to the shifter might be dirty. I just had an ac compressor problem so I filed/cleaned the electrical connectors and that fixed that problem.
I'm not sure how to read the codes on this vehicle I've done research looking for the area to jump to read engine light flash and have found one wire set on drivers side that might be for code readings and 3 behind the kickplate on passenger side SMH I guess I'll have to use process of elimination just don't want to risk shorting anything
Nice job on tear down lots of good info, what was the cause of this transmission failure? My wifes 1999 honda passport doing sort of same thing engine cold in drive it stays in 1st gear until almost 3grand then shifts like normal rest of gears, and runs fine until it sit and cools, no check codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
could be a sticky shift valve or maybe a lazy shift solenoid. It could also be hard lip seals on the pistons. It just does this once in the morning or does this until it warms up
@@GaryFerraro Yes sir, car wont shift into 2nd gear until you hit almost 3000rpms and shift into other gears fine, No stored codes just checked and no pending codes, thanks for your time and help.
I am referring to 20:55 minute of this video. I am doing exactly the same thing right now on my own gearbox. I can put the whole thing together no matter where the gears are rotated. Does it matter than? I dont use any force when putting the gears together.
There are marks on the metal case, where the gears are. They appear in this order "I" than "II" than "I" than "II", I hope that you know what I mean. However nothing appears on the corresponding gears. I have used magnifying glass, and can't find anything. There is not a combination where it would not fit together. The gears always rotate with ease after putting everything together...
+wood sims Its a torque flight 6 input shaft locking ring, maybe try to google it. I get mine from my supplier which is transtar(there website is www.transtar1.com or another supplier called W.I.T (whatever it takes transmission parts) not sure of that web address.
@@GaryFerraro check engine code Po 748 and then for transmission I’m getting this codes P104= Voltage supply solenoid valve and electronica pressure regulator P5= magnetic valve main pressure. I took the pan off and there’s no chunks inside it. Reverse is fine when your in reverse it function properly. The first time I put it In drive after starting it everything works but then if I put it in reverse then drive it’ll act out. The car revs to 3-3500 before moving. I have the pan opened up was going to check the solenoid but not sure exactly how to check it and what property readings are.
@@GaryFerraro also no lights are on the dash for transmission like limp mode but when I plug it in the codes up above are what come. Fluid was dirty though but not as dirty. But I bought a new filter and oil. Will be changing after
just curious. went up a trail with the wife nothing serious but I dropped it into 1 and 2 coming down hills and the check transmission light come on. stopped at the bottom and killed the motor for about 15 mins or so. I guess it cooled off because it went off and we drove home fine. 00 Isuzu rodeo 4l30e. have any ideas? let me know please
Alex, Do you mean when you came to a stop the engine shut off, did it start back up again in neutral and as you put it in drive the engine would shut down again?
Gary Ferraro cel light has been on since I got it. had it scanned and come up something about o2 sensors that has been 2 years ago and I haven't had it scanned recently nothing about transmission there may be another port to scan I'm not sure.
Gary, thank you very much for the video! I'm working on my 2000 BMW Z3. Lost reverse. So I'm rebuilding its 4l30e transmission. I'm going very slowly because this is my first time rebuilding a transmission. I use this video, ATSG manual, and a few other sources. So far I'm doing fine with disassembling the 4l03e transmission. And now I have almost put everything back together. The only thing I haven't been able to figure out is how to disassemble the 1-2 accumulator assembly, which is the big round thing that sticks way above everything else on the main valve body. Your video doesn't cover it. The ATSG manual just says disassemble it and assemble it with no details. I can push the round metal cover down but I don't see any snap ring etc to loosen. ATSG says I should replace 1-2 accumulator seal but i can't figure out how to do that. Please advise. Thanks
Thats also the band apply, There is a snap ring to remove. I use a socket to put around the adjuster and a C clamp or a special pair of vice grips to push down. How was the band? Sometimes that piston is a little tricky to put back in, there is a metal sealing ring that you have to tuck in place and push the piston down.
Gary, thanks for your reply. It's not the band apply servo though, which i was able to disassemble. I can't seem to attach a picture here but there is a smaller round piston on the valve body with a pin in the middle. I can push the piston down but I can't see anything I can do about it. The pin the middle may be screwed in but i didn't want to twist it and cause any damage if that's not how it's done.
Question for you, I have a 1995 BMW 525i, 80k on it, transmission shifts fine. The problem I am having is it leaks actually quite severely at times, you could say intermittently, looks like from the bellhousing. Doesn't leak at idle in drive or park, noticed spots in the driveway. Bought the car knowing it had a leak and figured it was just the torque converter seal so I replaced the seal and the shaft o-ring. Funny thing when I took it apart it didn't look like the torque converter seal was leaking, looked dry around the seal but I replaced it regardless since I bought it and had the transmission out of the car. So needless to say it still leaks, sometimes really bad, sometimes it doesn't leak at all. Weird, been working on BMW'S for about 25 years now, NEVER seen this on a 4L30E. Thought it might be the case seal but doesn't look like it's coming out of the case. Looks like it comes out of the bellhousing. The prior owner fully disclosed it, said the car sat all winter and he date started it up in the spring and it leaked out fluid to the point where it was low enough to where the transmission failsafe light came on and he had it towed to a shop where they told him it needed a transmission so he decided to sell it, the car is immaculate, no rust, low miles for the age, bought it for my daughter, hate to replace the transmission for a leak. Have you ever seen this?
Hello, It is for sure coming out of the bellhousing(from the inside where the torque converter is)? When you looked inside the bellhousing was it wet all around?
Gary Ferraro Actually thats whats throwing me for a loop, it looks as though it is right now as its installed in the car when I look at it thats why I replaced the torque converter seal but when I took it out of the car and removed the torque converter it wasn't all wet around the bellhousing behind the torque converter like it shouldve been if the torque converter seal had been leaking. If the torque converter bushing was leaking I would see the same type of leak as though the torque converter seal was leaking wouldnt I? I don't see any wetness between the bellhousing case and the intermediate housing so I don't think it's the case seal and the leak comes and goes which is weird. I drove it the entire week and it had been fine up until today, I opened up the fill plug this morning and checked the fluid level and it was spot on, then drove it today to run some errands after checking the fluid level and it started leaking again after driving it about 25 miles, now I did have it in sport mode so I don't know if that had anything to do with it. No codes, transmission shifts perfectly, just has this annoying leak. Can't duplicate it when the car is static, only leaks apparently when driving it.
Are you sure its from the trans, have you checked other fluids such as power steering and even engine oil. These 4L30's do have an issue of leaking from the front because of the pump bushing, i use a special bushing when i rebuild these units.
Absolutely positively from the bellhousing area, absolutely positively trans fluid. There are no other leaks in this car anywhere. Its trans fluid for sure, bright red because I have changed it when I replaced the torque converter seal. The lines are rusty but not leaking one drop of fluid. I see it coming out of the mating surfaces between the engine block and the transmission bellhousing. The only reason I've contacted you is because its got me stumped. I don't see fluid strewn around inside the bellhousing, only coming out of the bellhousing. What could leak like that out of the bellhousing and not show signs of it being thrown around in the bellhousing yet still coming out of the bellhousing? Could a pump bushing do that? I am wondering if the case itself is cracked but where and why? Where are you located? I am outside of Chicago, I'm afraid to have someone rebuild this thing and still have the problem. We don't rebuild transmissions at our shop, only replace them. I have watched several videos and read rebuild manuals in the 4l30e and doesn't look super complicated but I don't really have the time to tackle the job right now. I am trying to remember there was an SIB released by BMW back in the day about this transmission where we took the front case apart and replaced some teflon orings along with the case gaskets but I can't remember what it addressed? I remember BMW supplying us with case alignment tools to do the job none which I have anymore. You ever heard of an SIB like this? Its no longer in our bulletins or in the archives. Most older BMW techs I used to work with have gotten out of the trade or retired do I don't know anyone I could ask anymore. Should I bite the bullet and purchase a reman unit or pursue this issue? I've had a couple transmissions rebuilt in the past and they never seem to shift quite right after having it done. Hard to find good reputable shops in my area. Dont want to spend the money if theres going to be problems, rather put the money towards a reman unit with a warranty.
The only things inside the bell housing are the front seal and bushing. Ive only seen them leak out of the front because of the bushing. Was there any oil inside the bellhousing? Im in new york on long Island. If the pump bushing is worn, the converter will lie against the seal causing fluisd to come out. Its certainly not a common issue, i dont see this problem too much, but the couple of times i did, i would send the converter out to be leak checked, then i would change out the bushing(with a sonnax bushing) and a new front seal. But when you pulled the converter out you saw oil?
My pop's does same, slips in 1st, all other gears are cherry. He had it rebuilt, came back good eventually started going out withing a couple months. He took it back like 5 times, each time same, good then eventually failed and he just gave up. Engine runs strong so might try to rebuild it or swap another trans in or take out engine and use in something with another trans or something.
hi there, my 4L30 gearbox in a 1996 Isuzu KB alias Rodeo.. works totally normal 99% of the time, only every now and then i am stuck in 1st or 2nd gear - unfo no experts around here in Cyprus as it seems, anybody here know whats causing that kind of problem?
i had it at my mechenic's garage for oil change and filter cleaning until filter wasn't collecting much dirt anymore. Before the were some crumbs in the oil.. l must admit that i thought there wasn't much electronics in those old gearboxes from the 1990s yet, that one could read out for codes. The mechanic also gave me the impression that the cause could be only mechanical, but after i read a bit into this matter, i get the idea that i must talk to the Isuzu garage.. problem here Cy is that people never admit if they dont understand a problem, normally they will just start working on it and charge you even if it doesnt work. Or they'll say get another gearbox. ;-)
Great video , Thank you !!! I can repair car engines, I can clean and lubricate mechanical watches ... but transmissions, naah ... I will pay the best trany shop in town to fix it for me ... looks very complex. Thank you Gary
@@GaryFerraro I am living in San Diego CA on a second thought maybe I can do a transmission ... it's a mater of learning enough and have a 4L30E to try on, and I have one left over from replacement I purchased from junk yard few years ago... still driving my 525i build in 1994 :-)
Gary, I have a 2000 Passport that the 1st gear shutters and wont go into 4th. 2nd and 3rd did work fine and then everything just stopped working. No reverse, no 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th. 4wd and winter driving button makes no difference. Several tranny shops said they wont touch this tranny because it is too difficult. Why is this? Thanks!
Thanks for your reply! It has 170000 miles on it and we just bought it (son and I). It is in overall great condition but with tranny problems. We knew that going in though. We got it very cheaply because the rebuild quotes are about $2500. I am in East Tennessee. It idles fine but did want to die when in gear unless you held your foot on the gas. While driving home from buying it, fluid blew out underneath several times after about 30 mins of driving and onto my wife's van behind us. I believe it was tranny fluid. There is quite a bit of fluid in the pan but it is dark brown and burnt smelling. The check trans light flashed after that. We got it home and it still moved in the driveway and then stopped altogether. It never worked anymore after that. There is no visible metal in the pan but there is a thick petroleum jelly like substance in the very bottom. Maybe Lucas or something? I am good mechanically and very detailed but have always considered transmissions way above my skillset.
@@GaryFerraro yes but in australia its hard to get an auto shop to work on the 4l30e. A few places i went for quotes told me they dont touch them. I have a question about the transfer box, is it a borges and warner in the trooper. Wanting to put reduction gears in.
Thank you for this video - following your process this way is much easier than trying to read people's internet textbook posts. I have a 92 E34 BMW - I just found what looks like the front pump washer broken in the aux unit pan (same one you pull at about @17:00 in after removing the bellhousing). It looks like the front pump also rides against the large ring spacer? I only dropped the pan after I saw the gasket was weeping - the car drives fine aside from occasionally flying away from 3rd when the trans is extra warm from town driving or long highway jaunts in hot weather. Basically, it occasionally behaves like it has slightly reduced pressure when it's hot, the same issues kits like this are supposed to address: www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/4l30evalvebodyupgradekit.aspx Shifting to 3 manually will usually grab 3rd fine if it flys away, and then you can keep going on through 3 and 4 like nothing happened, and successive shifts to 3rd are fine. Sometimes selecting 3rd, there is a delay and then a harder engagement to 3rd, but then it seems happy afterward. 2-3 feels "slow" or "soft" sometimes - never when cold though. Dropping the main pan for a full filter change back in summer only showed some clutch material and a piece of one friction disc in the main pan (section of fiber with some teeth) - nothing terribly alarming for the mileage. The behavior hasn't changed much since I bought it at 235k, it has 250k now. The car has had only 3 prior owners, all regular-maintainers at nice shops). I have located a good cheap spare, but what should I expect from the current transmission given it's been driving around without this spacer for possibly 10-15k or more? - unless I broke it down the block on my last drive! It feels like it will just keep plugging along but I don't know what to expect to lose first. I'm kind of curious how long it'll go since it's already gone so far.
If this is running away in 3rd sometimes when hot, may have a problem with the drum seals. I think you may loose 3rd and 4th first, those kits are fine to use but if you have a problem with clutch seals it may not address the problem
