Would love to hear your thoughts on the best transmission to use on a 4x4! Love all the vids, you seem like the most honest and knowledgable guy I have listened to on RU-vid.
I guess it depends on alot of factors. I like the 4l80 in a 4x4, but having to get new shafts and stuff, I understand why people resist swapping in that instance. It's kind of why I just buy 3/4 4x4's to start with myself.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer also interested in 4 by 4 trans. How much hp would the 4l60 support ? Not running it hard since it come in 2nd gen tahoes and I’m sure a lot more? But do have bigger tires and rims
Have a 4l85e in my tahoe after blowing 2 60e trans with a cammed 6.0 My 85e just breezes thru shifts that would make my 60e feel like it was going to shatter. The transgo kit works well but Sonnax makes a relief valve so you don't have to drill the valvebody like transgo recommends. Transgo's pressure relief could potentially cause you to burn down your trans if it sticks open.
I finally bit the bullet and getting a 4L80E myself. My local performance shop told me "if it's built right", too. It just can't be built right, I don't care if you use the best Transmission builder, buy "Sonnax this" and "Smart shell" that, etc. If it holds up a year for me, that's being lucky. I start having shift problems long before that. On the street, if I don't feather it, even with Mickey Thompson ET Street SS's (27.5 and 28" tires and 3.73 rear) the car will spin through 1st and 2nd and most of the way through 3rd. I replaced my 10 Bolt rear years ago and stopped breaking rear ends. The 4L60E just can't do it. I can't even finish locking my tune in with WOTs before the transmission is slipping or breaking something. Bye 4L60E.
Interesting thought about the 700r4. I put a 4.8 in my K5 Blazer and kept my 700r4 with no adapter from Bowtie Overdrive, I made it for free with a welder and some scrap steel. I might post a video on it. The engine isn't making any power over stock
I recently just put a cam in my 5.3 and did the whole valve train, nothing special really just wanted a bit more power, I got a 1999 Chevy 1500 4x4 and stuck with 60 mainly because I won’t be making crazy power prolly nothing over 350 to the wheels and that’s good for me but anything more and I would have got a 80. I beat the living shit out of this trans and it just won’t die I knew the guy who built it and said have it and I have!! Buddy’s of mine have put TONES of these in stock 5.3s and 4.3s and they just died, I killed my stock one 2 days after I bought the truck but it had lived it’s live at 300k but so far after 6 months of brutal abuse on this trans I would recommend it if your JUST doing a cam that’s it. That’s just my person experiences but everyone knows that the 80 is without a doubt the best case in all applications.
I 100% agree! I've had 2 4l60's and then a upgraded 4l65 with extra clutches and all the trick stuff, in a s10 6.0 with heads and a cam basically. It lasted about 2 years with good trans temps.
Everything that was bought, was bought from Dana at I believe Performance Automatic in CA, but I can't remember the name of his company for sure.The valvebody was done by him. You send it in, and he checks it, repairs whatever it needs, and sets up the hole sizing. As for what failed, it's what always fails in these, the 2-3 clutch pack. The pressure was checked both directly after install, and a month or so after, and was told it was great. My 4l80, just keeps taking it. I probably should change the fluid in it at this point. Never had to even think about that with a 60.
I just spend $1000 building my 4L60 but it’s in my 4x4 obs and I need it back on the road ASAP.I would love to have the 4L80 but I wasn’t sure how extensive it would be to get it all together etc
You asked, what transmission should you run with your LSswap. What kind of motor is an LSswap? Wouldn't it be, what transmission to run with your LS not LSswap? LS swap is a verb isnt it?
There are less than a handful of 4l60e builders in the country that can build a 4l60e right. But cost wise it's not in the same ball park as a 4l80e. The downside is the 4l80 is not a direct swap into some vehicles, without a bfh. Rpm is overpriced for 4l60e. Another shop in Maryland. Cahall performance transmissions. Very good 4l60e builder and decent prices. Check the site.
Yeah there are people out there who can build them, I can build one, I know the parts it takes. I also know what they cost, and man that could buy a couple 4L80s However, like C5 cars, etc some just can't swap that easy, and that sucks.
The 60e can be built to handle 700+ hp. The 80e is not exactly unbreakable, but it is tougher, for sure. Making an 80e fit into your vehicle can take some chop-work, too.
In defense of the 4L60E performance pack basically a 4L65E in my 2002 Camaro, its got 105 thousand hard miles on it and still bangs gears like a champ. They are rated from GM for 380HP max. that means 380 and less guys, not 400.. not 450hp... 380 at the max lol. and it does that just fine, honestly for what its rated for 380hp its a great tranny my only complaint is the shifts are too soft in them, you need a shift kit... its 100% required. get a god dam shit kit. lol NOW my point of this comment was only to say for a 380hp and LESS application the 4L60E performance pack tranny and 4L65E are great, BUT if you plan on going over 4 hundo then get a 4L80 its the same price... literally the same price. I personally don't want an automatic at all, I will be tearing out a majestic 4L60E that actually works perfect and putting in a T56 manual. Because I don't give a flying fuck about drag times I care about having fun and being able to have 100% control over what gear I'm in and having 6 of them to choose from. That being said don't let people scare you into thinking a 4L60 is junk, if you have something like a 350 v8 putting out maybe 280horse power a 4L60 can and WILL handle it just fine with a corvette servo/shift kit. plus a better torque converter helps too, I have a 3000 stall currently ( for reference) I'm just saying if you have the choice go with a 4L80, if you don't, then use the 4L60, it'll be FINE.
Another thing to note is your car weight. A truck @ 380whp with the added weight probably would shell it. Weight makes a huge difference, we can put down over 300whp on little 4 cylinder autos but the car weighs almost nothing. That's why the 4l80 is so much better, it's built to be under huge trucks. I'm not trying to dis what you are saying but there is more involved to longevity of the 4L60 than WHP alone.
4 pinion planet can handle 650 hp. Before you say I'm wrong. A th350 use the same rear planet as a 700 and 4L60 use. As long as you keep the filter clean. 4 pinion planet will hold up just fine.
What about the Turbo 200-4R that's built? All the "go fast" speed places (Jegs & Summit) and performance trans shop sell them. Good for 400+ HP (they say). They are a virtural drop in for a THM 350, gives you an OD and still use the TV cable and no computer! These seem to be overlooked a lot.
I did a 4l80e swap in my 99 suburban last summer and I love it! No more 4l60e for me ever again, I have the tci standalone controller and it has worked awesome you can pretty much set it up how you want it to perform I'm getting ready to swap out my other two suburbans 4l60e for the 4l80e just that much better of a transmission!
I'd love to do a 80e swap, but I don't like the 1st gear ratio it has. 3.06 for a 60e vs 2.48 for an 80e. Now if anyone knows if a company offers built 80e's that have a 1st ratio closer to 3.06 I'd jump on it. Changing gear rations in my differentials is a task. The rear I know everyone will say is a piece of cake but I got 4x4 so I'd have to do that too and the front diff I got isn't a piece of cake like a rear end. I got 4.10s not really looking to jump higher than that... not trying to be banging 3k rpms at 70 on the highway lol.
This is exactly why 80s are getting harder to find. Every Joe has one now and probably a second one their not using. Remember, these transmissions are also 15-20 years old. They dont shift when you ask them too at WOT, they are heavy, Accelleration is slower from all the heavy rotating mass of the oversize 80 parts, and you WILL lose a minimum of 40-70 HP running one over your competitors. And if your like most Joe's, you'll put one behind a stock LS cause your extra smart. Waisted fuel mileage, waisted power, slower acceleration, over weight and lazy driving experience...but hay at least you got an 80 right! 😜 So you spend 400 at the junk yard, then when you realize the trans shifts like crap, you'll spend 2 grand rebuilding it, have to take the trans out three times and reinstall it twice, and still be down 40-70HP or more depending on your builder and your wallet. 4L60E will keep your car much more nimble, you'll have more power, faster acceleration, and a lighter car and a much more fun driving experience.
Ok, we'll go through this bit by bit, since I'm a little bored now. 1. Wasted.. Waisted would be like wearing a corset or something. Wasted is needless loss. 2. How do you know they're getting harder to find? Why are you looking for them if they're so garbage? 3. Let's see a dyno sheet of a before and after 80 swap showing any loss, let alone 40-70 rwhp? 4. I spend 100 at the junkyard, 400 is way too much, multple videos on the channel showing transmission at that price. 5. They shift just fine at WOT if you know how to tune and use a drill. 6. They don't cost anywhere near 2k to rebuild.. I'm sure that's probably what you charge your "customers" though. 6. Your car isn't going to be very nimble sitting in the driveway with a failed transmission.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer ya you said all that in the video. Why buy a pickup truck to do a job a wheelbarrow can do. But nobody can tell you nothing cause you know it all. So offering anything is just a waste of time. Have nice day!
So you have no proof to back up your claim of 45-70 rwhp lost? Just to be clear here... You made a bunch of assertions, I responded, now you have no answers?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer well according to you, you know everything, so why should I waste both our time. Ya I have proof from my own finding on my own Dyno. But it doesnt matter because like your laughter insinuates, your the transmission master.
Im building a drag racer and the only reason i didnt get a 4l80e is 1. I found a rebuilt th400 for a deal 2. Itll get trailered to races so very little to no highway time
My free LQ9 was matched with a 4l70e, from what I've read and seen when I went through it was it has better internals and the 5 pinion planetary. Being that it was free its what I will run as I'm not going to beat on it and only doing a sloppy stage 2 camshaft with headers and tune. I will be installing it in my 64 impala ss for just a cruiser. If anyone has input on the 4l70e please leave a comment, good, bad or whatever lol
The 4L70 is, like you said, a beefed up 60. I consider them the same thing really for all intents and purposes. If you give them the beans, they'll still break like a 60. In an Impala, as a cruiser, with an NA engine with a cam, it'll probably live a long time though, I'd use it too.
I just found your channel and I’ve been learning a lot. I’m new to a lot of this and I’m trying to research ls swaps before I have stupid ideas I can’t act on. My question is what vehicles should I try looking at in the junkyard or in general for a 4l80e transmission.
so i have a 4l60e on a 4.8. its done for. i have a buddy who has a build 4l80. what all do i need for a swap cause ik its not a plug and play deal. how much am i looking at spending?
I have a stock setup on my 4x4 1500 powered by a stock crate l33 with the original 4l60e that lasted longer than expected. I want to do the swap but my resources are limited and I'm not trying to modify/upgrade my truck so I don't need the extra strength as im not trying to push more hp or torque. The driveshafts are my only real issue as I'm not sure if my setup is a direct swap or need modification to work. The mods needed are keeping me on the fence with a rebuild vs a swap but it's a 60e and an 80e is a no brainer. Is a 60e worth a rebuild if it's a stock application? ..... I should add it does have a purpose built lift and 33's but overall it's all stock on the powertrain and I plan to keep it that way. Any input will direct me towards what I need
@TheDrivewayEngineer if it was a high mileage truck, I would agree, but I stay on top of its maintenance and replace it with all new. It has only 29k on the powertrain. It's not a high mileage rig like most of the 20 yr old trucks with 4l60e transmissions. I have considered a direct replacement, just considering whether or not an upgrade is even necessary with my setup. Not a built truck and not a high mileage junker either.
I have a 4l80e not sure the condition. It's going behind a BBC 427 with a procharger. The builder said conservatively 850hp. Any suggestions on what to do with the trans?
Pretty sure the sun shell went out I my 97z28. Could I just put a 4l80 in and use same crossmember and mount? What about torque arm mount and all that? I'd have to change everything right?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah thats true lol. I know umi makes the crossmember and torque arm mounts for the camaros with th400 swaps. For now I'm just gonna get a 4l60e from a junkyard and throw it in for now so it'll be quick n easy so I can get it back on the road. Then im gonna start looking into a th400 or 4l80e after I got it going and I can save a lil money
So is it different on a 4x4? im building a 350 for my awd blazer but really not looking foreword to trying to fit a big 4l80 in there and it shouldn't be more than 400hp. should I just rebuild my 4l60?
I'm looking to do a 5.3 swap in a 95 C1500, will the PCM off the 5.3/4L60e control the 4L80E? My engine is from a 2006 Tahoe DBW. Could I just get a 4L80E Standalone harness for the engine and be good to go after a tune?
I'm thinking about swapping my 5.3 for a lq9 with a stage 1 cam and it has a 4l60e 4x4 do you think I'm better off with a built 4l60e or swapping 4l80e?
got at 54 ford f100. did a ls swap with a 700r trans. all kinds of problem get this thing to shift right. finally got a 4l80 to install behind the LS. what shift controller do you recommend?
How about the factory wiring when going from the 60 to 80? I plan to put a sbc in my 94 s10 and would like to get an 80 but if not I have both a 700r4 and a 60 on hand to use.
It depends on what you're talking about. In the context of an LS vehicle, it's as simple as moving two wires and adding a second VSS. On an SBC, presumably with a carb, there is no "factory" wiring and you would have to use an aftermarket controller, the least expensive of which is the Microsquirt.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I know about using a tps on a carb. In my case I plan to keep the factory tbi setup and just wondered about the harness plug going to the trans and the difference between the 60 and the 80.
Plenty of guys did it here: www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=63858&sid=30ccf548f44f7419af0b5d84f11da881 I did it on a 98 4x4 Tahoe. It needed an extra speed sensor, 4 wires (possibly due to 0411 pcm swap) and relocation of transmission crossmember.
I have a twin turbo 4wd Silverado 6.0L with the 4L65E making 940hp.... 5 years strong... transmission is perfect. I just don't start it up or drive it.... Will last me forever
4 года назад
I swear you are making at least 1200, maybe 1500 horsies. Why not exaggerate a bit over shots. I'm game!
Suggestion, drop a little attitude and highlight WHY a 4L80 is a stronger transmission. Just a little constructive criticism, I hope you can handle it.
I have a 5000 pound Blazer with a twin turbo 555 BBC that makes 1340 to the wheels and a built 4L80E works great , I don’t care that a 400 with a gear vendors which used to be in it is quicker down the track I like the 3000 ish lock up converter I have and being able to program the rpm I want it to shift it , I am using the ez tcu and have the hand held mounted permanently to display rpm, speed , whether converter locked , voltage, tranny temp , tps percentage , gear it’s in , and the bonus of having a manual mode where I have a toggle switch to shift it just like a manual valve body .
Good to know. I have a 1965 carryall that is getting some beef. Dana 80 rear, Super duty 60 front with Janz engineering HP 70 ring and pinion. Hope to keep it under 7000lbs. Got my turbos and headers now need $ to build a big block. I will need a stout transmission.
Thank you for the information I really didn't want to hear. I just dropped almost 2k on building a 4L65 that can't even stand up to my mild 5.3. I guess you never get too old to get schooled. Now to find a Turbo 400 or a Tremec TKO
I have PTSD just looking at a 4L60e. I've been through about 5 "end all be all" builds and eventually swapped to a TH400. I can live without the overdrive vs spending thousands of dollars every year on a 4L60e.
I’m not a shop owner, but I do build a lot of performance transmissions for high power cars. I tell people that ask about a 4l60 build that you can buy every upgrade for the 60, it will still be weaker than a stock 4L80 with a shift kit. If you need more upgrades to a 60 than premium frictions and maybe a drive shell, you need a 4l80. If you can make a 4L80 fit, use it!!
@@TAShannon1 the Sonnax smart shell? Aftermarket gearsets and shafts? I’m sure there are others, but that covers the majority of them. Go back and read what I said. Or find someone who can read to do it for you. With all the high dollar upgrades, a good USED 4l80 is more durable than a 4l60, even with the high dollar upgrades. A 4l60 behind lots of power will always be a maintenance item. Who cares if a 4l60 is a couple hundredths quicker if it won’t make it the next round??? The ONLY way I’d ever recommend spending the money on high dollar upgrades for a 4l60 is if a 4L80 just won’t fit (Corvette with rear mounted transmission for example)
@mattrodgers4878 that's what im saying, 4l80 isn't always the best option. You can't fit a 4l80e into everything. Just because a transmission builder is building a 4l60e and spending the high dollar cash needed to get it up to par doesn't mean that they are ripping people off. It's roughly 5k worth of parts on a fully built 4l60 which sucks to have to spend but If a 4l60e is built right by somebody who really knows what they're doing and not being unrealistic with the end goal then it is a viable option. Sometimes it is the only option. Hard part upgrades is one thing. Getting everything to work together optimally is a symphony of part choice and valve body modification paired with the right vehicle for the right usage. These are two completely different classes of transmissions. Yes the 4l80e is the boss, the goat, old faithful but definitely not going to be the best option every time against a 4l60
Great video! I had to give a big sigh of relief after watching this video! I'm getting ready to LS Swap my 75 Chevy Caprice Classic! Just bought an LQ9/4L80E Combo! Gonna beef the motor up a bit more but now I feel more at ease... Big shout out to the Driveway Engineer! I'm addicted to your videos! 👍
I just picked up a 6.0 yesterday and been looking for a 4l80e I was wondering about the years.. you answered my question. Thank you P.s seems to me then 4l80’s way cheaper in Michigan than Chicagoland area. I’ll be in three river,mi next week so hope I find one that way.
They're probably cheaper in Wisconsin too. We have more trucks getting destroyed in wrecks and by weather, you have more people building serious street cars
Give me that legendary TH400! I gotta a stock th400 behind a 496 big block with 565hp/600tq in a 68 Impala, I beat the hell out it, and she's still shifting like butter. Crazy thing is it the original transmission from 1968👍👍 4l80e are beast transmissions just costly.
I blew apart a 4l60e on my supercharged 98 S-10 SS 4.3 making 470whp @ 30k. I also sheared the output shaft on my tune only 4.8 RCSB 4x4 Sierra with 33s. This video is all kinds of good advice.
@@NativeDescent Vortech sq2 kit at 15psi (one of the first to have the kit back in 99-00). Port and polished heads. Comp cam 270, meth injection, 2114 Edelbrock manifold MPFI conversion speed density tune with 411pcm. I don't have that setup anymore. The timing chain went. Eventually will be working on a twin turbo setup for about 800hp when the money is right. I have a lot of the parts, just gotta get a motor built to handle it.
I can't find a 2wd 4l80e near me. This may turn into a lengthy search. My local transmission shop he can swap the rear housing and output shaft for another $125.
Sometimes the other mods that are necessary for upgrading to 4L80E, perhaps fitment issues, relocating trans mount brackets, new or modifying the old driveshaft, might turn some people off from the upgrade because it's definitely not a direct swap and they may not want modification for such things. Just depends on what your goals are and how much you want to waste on a hopped up 4L60/65/70E vs going with a relatively stock 4L80E
@@TAShannon1 I try to stick with lamens logic ... but i can get carried away. ;) I drilled new holes into the frame to move the Transmission Crossmember back nearly 10 inches from the stock TH350 to a late 4L80E/85E .
I think there's a lot of folks here that are misunderstanding the 4L60 transmission, or any "factory" GM trans. In the R&D world of automotive, there's a cost that's always monitored. If you've read the headlines on the Ford ZF transmission, then you'd fully understand. The 4L series transmissions ALL have their limitations. When these transmissions are designed and built, their done so with driver comfort in mind. Every manufacturer does it. Every transmission is only designed to last through warranty. Automatics by their very design will not last forever. They will wear out eventually. Some last longer than others, it all depends on the driver habits. I've never replaced a 4L series transmission, in any vehicle I own. Neglect and abuse is what kills transmissions. Is a 4L80 the way to go in a performance application, sure! Will the 4L60 survive in a performance application, yes it will. In a mild performance application, the 4L 60 is a great transmission. If someone builds a 1000+ hp car, then the 4l60 is probably not the best choice for a transmission. The 4L80 isn't a good choice either. At WOT throttle, the 4th gear isnt used anyways. The 4L60 has limitations! If it didn't, then those transmissions would've been used in everything. The 4L60 was used in many GM car and trucks. GM would've stopped using them if they were problematic a long time ago. I saw a post about someone complaining about a 4l60 going out after mounting 33" tires and wheels. Are you aware of how heavy those wheels are? I have a set of 35" tires from a Silverado that had a blown transmission. Guess what, that trans was fried! The failure was due to the excessive TCC slippage. The wheels are heavy, and it takes a lot of horsepower to turn them. There's a lot of rotational mass that the trans has to get turning, on top of getting the vehicle up to speed. The excessive slippage caused the TCC to fail and send garbage all through the trans, consequently destroying the trans. Again neglect and abuse. You can't put gobs of hp/torque through a stock transmission, blow it up, and complain about it. Remember neglect and abuse! These transmissions were made for stock applications. 33" tires are not stock. I'm not trying to start a pissing contest with anyone, but I just don't get why people are complaining about the 4L60. It was never intended to be a performance transmission. Quit calling the 4L60 transmission garbage, when failures 99% of the time are caused by the owner.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Ok like I posted before, I'm not trying to start an argument here. Your claim of electronic protection removal puts it on borrowed time is based on what evidence? What protections are you referring too? I'm very close with these series of transmissions. I've been around them, inspected them, rebuilt them, and destroyed them since 1992. I think you made a decent video, but you praised the 4L80. In reality, it can only hold about 80 ft lbs more torque that the 4L60. If you know the common failure points of the 4L series transmissions, then you can actually make these transmissions withstand more. I've been a mechanical engineer for going on 40 years, with also a degree in metallurgy. If you take a thin piece of metal, flex it back and forth, eventually it's going to break. Flexing a piece of metal beyond it's serviceable limit causes microscopic stress cracks. Those cracks eventually propagate out from the original starting point, until the cracks meet. What do you think happens inside a transmission. Neglect and abuse will push the design limits of the internal components, until a failure occurs. I'm sorry, but you can't fault the 4L60 for design. Again your video wasn't bad at all, but it was very one-sided. You praised the 4L80 as being almost bulletproof, when they are not. It really wasn't a bad video.
@@demontech06 all I'm saying in the video is if you have a choice, and it's a performance application, start with the 80. In reality with no type of power reduction on shifts, it's capable of 800 ft/lbs on the input shaft before failure. A 60 is capable of about 2 dozen WOT 2-3 shifts at the 400 ft/lb level before clutch pack failure. I'm not interested in, or talking about some soccer mom's stock Tahoe or grand dad's Silverado. The transmissions work fine for what they were intended to do, give a deep first gear to under powered pigs of trucks and SUV's so they feel powerful, and give them a deep overdrive to maintain mid teen fuel economy. They were never intended for the power people attempt to shove through them today, any fool can remove every shred of spark retard, fuel reduction, and reduce shift times to 0 on a 4l60 behind an LS with a cam and a 200 shot making 500 HP, and it will fail. Then they want to spend 1500 in aftermarket parts on it, and another 1k in labor... When a beefier transmission exists already. You can make anything better. You can make a POS 85 Sunbird run 10's if you want. If money doesn't matter to you, it's just a matter of spending some. 500 dollar donor trans versus 3x that... It's not a contest if you can physically fit it.
4l80e for me .I just found out with HD -3 transgo shift kit makes it full manual ! No computer no tps ! And lock up does work . What ever gear you put it in it will take off but I would advise to start in first and run thru your gears . You will have to run a deep pan to clear the valve body mod I'm building a 69 chevelle with 468 good balanced bottom and hydraulic roller. I think the transmission will work out for me. Thanks for sharing your videos!!
Did he say he's got less than $5000 dollars in his truck and takes it to the track? $5000 dollars for a truck usually means it needs new plugs, wires, tires, brakes, ect.... Just wondering, win many races? A 4L60 is not built for a drag car. Dont blame the transmission for sucking ass when used in a drag car. Blame the idiot that owns the car. Its not a bad transmission if used correctly. It does have a lower 1st gear ratio than most other transmissions. Thats better for spinning tires. Im just busting balls here. Youre correct about the 2 transmissions in this video.
If I am going to pay anything over 2k I'm buying a Dog Box or something likewise. Thanks for educating the masses. As they say you can take a camel to the river. But you can't make em drink.
Before I even watched this I was thinking 4L80E since it is the step up from 4L60E. why would you not go with the better option is beyond me? Still people do it though!
The lession to be taken from here folks: JoeDipshit needs a 4l80 because he tries to break his ride every time he drives it by abusing the flying snot out of his vehicle, then talks shit about the transmission or builder. If you have no feel or empathic touch for machinery, then you might be a JoeDipshit that keeps breaking everything he operates, and therefore needs a bigger, bulkier, heavier transmission to compensate for inept abillity behind the wheel.
I removed the THM375 (THM400 with longer tailshaft) in my 1990 454SS Truck. I built a 4L80E with heavy parts and installed in my truck. I used a Compushift electronic shifter. That was in 2006. Still running good. I installed a heavy duty cooler with fan for cooling up front.
5 years silverado 2003 4x4 with 5.3 sc, 6.0 sc and 6.0 turbo on 4L60 two times change some disc and one time the belt on a 11.60 best et on 1/4 mille track and every weekend race on 1/8, 100 ydr dirt or sand, one on a million 4l60.
What about 6L80's I'd like a few more gears, but I haven't made the LS leap yet, I have a 11:1 385 stroker waiting for something to mate it to, the t-5 would be a waste of time even trying it, I haven't found a deal on a t-56 yet, so as much as I HATE IT!! I guess I'll go with a auto! I'd like around 2500-3k stall, its not a strip car at all, more of a road race vibe, I would like to find a 4.8 or 5.3, with a little boost, I don't think I'd even fool with the 10 speed trans, what the hey you going do with 10 gears, and lockup converter??? I'm guessing the 6 or 8 is plenty if it will handle power!! I belive I'll subscribe, I can use LS advise, I don't have $$ to waste,
