Excellent video (as are all of them that I've watched so far). Your explanations are clear and well thought-out. You have an impressively analytical mind. But I must ask: Where's the second part??? I can't seem to find it anywhere on your list. I'm chomping at the bit here! 🤪
That explains it! 😁 It's a bit of a relief - I was afraid I was showing my age and looking right past it. I'll be patient, thanks. And keep up the great work!@@AlloffroadAu
For very fine sand 35" tire 20 to 25 psi. 33" 15 to 20. 31" 10 to 15. I dont recommend going with a smaller size than that. A 75 ratio is ideal for a tire. Spinning your tire faster then 22.5 mph will overcome gravities effect for sand to fall in front of your tire.
Hey Stefan, Great info, Great driving and a Great Land Cruiser but........ not very great spelling ! ( I know, pedantic, but I got very distracted by it ) get a mate to check the spelling for you in future
Very well presented video with very good information from a man with real "wheels in the dirt" experience, touches all the subjects that need addressing for sand forays. Many thanks.
Omg, this is one of the most useful and thorough videos I've seen on YT. Thanks so much! I just moved to a really sandy area and am learning as much as possible before I take my SUV to stressful situations. SO HELPFUL!!!!
Reducing the torque to the wheels, by running at lower revs, or selecting a higher gear as soon as the vehicle maintains movement, is a great way to limit wheel spin, since sand has very little traction to offer. To not use brakes at all in soft sand, but allow the vehicle to freely stop with just the sand slowing it, avoids digging in. The moment it stops gently reverse about one meter, ..this assists your moving off, since that sand is now compacted. Remove the loose hump of sand left in front of each wheel, and always move off as gentle as possible, to avoid digging down.
Hi Stefan just wondering in your huge experience touring many remote areas what brands of tyres can you usually find to buy in most outback towns? Is it easier to find 33s than 33s ? I ask this because there’s no point getting a brand of tyre that’s not easily available in remote areas no matter how good the tyre is perceived to be.
to be honest you will be hard-pressed to get any 33" or 35" MT in small communities no matter the brand, the biggest brand would be BFG and Cooper but likely also would need to be flown in. A different brand tyre as long as it's same size and construction would be no issue in a pinch.
Another really good video, there's one more disadvantage of larger tyres that I'd add though, the leverage of the larger diameter reduces your braking ability, so it's usually a good idea to upgrade brakes when upsizing tyres, even something as simple as switching to braided stainless lines can be enough.
yes you are 100% right I should have mentioned that as well, I have a brake upgrade and as part of the engineering to legally drive the tyre increase you need a lane change and brake test.
Agree; I'm going from 32s to 33s on my Ranger (285/70/17); getting rear discs in July (towing a 2.3t tare van, ATM is 2.75t). BTW, only putting my speedo out by 2-3 Km/h, under-reading).
toyotas dont stop with std tyres,,i run 35,s no probs.. not jap..you cant upgrade jap brakes,,unless you go hydroboost..when you get a gvm upgrade,, it doesnt include wheel bearings..plus the cost of rotors, calipers, lines, is pathetic..this is why i dont drive jap 4x4rs.. theres no std upgrades.. i can fit all f350 running gear on an f100.. or f250. bolt on std..1960 - 2023. 4, 5, 6 sp. diffs from 3.5 to 4.56 or higher, petrol, diesel..single or duel rear. all chev, dodge, ford, running gear same,ish.. best v8 diesel. 7.3 IH. million miles..
Regarding the gopro test: When going slower and the vibration of the gopro becomes less, it just tells you the frequency of the corrugation is not at the resonance frequency of the camera mount anymore. It doesn't say anything about the vibration amplitude of the vehicle or whether the corrugation frequency is the same like the dampers'.
Hi Stefan, love your videos. I note that you say they "have never let you down" however in your September 2019 review you stated that you had multiple KM3 punctures on that trip despite never having had any punctures on 10 sets of KM2s.
yes mate that is correct, on that trip we had overall 14 or so punctures in all different tyre sizes and brands, I plugged the holes (all in the same tyre) on the go and drove home on the tyre so given the number of overall tyre punctures we had I would not put that on the KM3 at this stage given that this trip was the only one with punctures in nearly 40.000ks now. I will report as usual of any punctures or failures in the future. I think I was quite lucky to go six years without a puncture no matter what tyre, so at some stage, it was bound to catch up on me.
The issue with high speed on correlations is heat buildup in the suspension. That cal lead to failure of components like shock absorbers. So if you must go fast, it is important to stop frequently for breaks and let the suspension cool down
one of, if not the best explanitory video I have found, you are spot on on pretty much everything. I've got 30 years of sand and off road driving with a lot of vehicles. I like the rim size = minimum tyre pressure, not heard that before. :-D
27:50... Your video loses all crediability.. You have no evidence. Videos ive seen that actaully DID real tesing. Wide tyres on average only gained 2% larger traction patterns. BUT wide tyres have more weight meaning worse unsprung weight, worse fuel economy and worse rolling resistance. Narrow tyres gained a narrower traction patch while wide tyres were wider. So some ruts youll have LESS tyre in contact with a wide tyre because of the contact patch pattern. Please do some actaul research and testing.
lol you mean something like 100.000km of sand driving and 2-3 Desert trips alone per year not to mention additional trips to Fraser, SA or Tasmania for sand driving. I don't go for wide I have the most common size in 35" 315/75/16 and yet have to get stuck I sure don't go for a skinny 35" which is very uncommon and hard to get as it makes no difference for capability and traction. I never said a wider tyre does not use more fuel but it's negligible with the same diameter.
I love that bit of advice on tyre pressures. I run Michelin 4x4-O/R 7.50 R16 tyres on my short-wheelbase Land Rover Series III (I still use tubes, which is both a blessing and a curse), and fortunately Michelin UK have a fantastic tyre load/pressure table for differing conditions. Based on this, and at maximum permitted axle loads of 930 kg (2050 lb) front, 1190 kg (2624 lb), I run the following cold pressures: Tracks and sand - 65 km/h (40 mph) maximum: 1.0 bar (15 psi) front, 1.4 bar (20 psi) rear. Emergency soft - 20 km/h (12 mph) maximum: 0.5 bar (7 psi) front, 0.7 bar (10 psi) rear. I do stress, however, that the emergency pressures are exactly that, emergency (and very temporary) use only. I don't advocate what some RU-vidrs do and run tyres at 0.7 bar (10 psi) for all sand driving - not all tyres can handle that pressure temporarily, let alone permanently. It's always best to get the data directly from your tyre manufacturer for loads/pressures - not the internet!
tubes create very different issues in sand and are a pain in my book. Most modern quality M/T tyres can be run quite low continuously on sand. At present I run around 15 PSI cold on 35" Nitto TrailGrabber for hundreds of KM per trip in the Desert never had an issue. Low pressure does become an issue if you pick up speed on hard ground i.e. gravel road or even tar than pressure needs to be adjusted. My play Jeep I have run on 7-10 PSI on 37" KM3 while technical driving for years.
@@AlloffroadAu Tubes are a pain most of the time, mainly purchasing the things over here (unless you want Chineseium). I know BFGoodrich UK will not authorise the use of pressures below 1.5 bar (22 psi), but BFGoodrich Australia say you can but speed must be restricted to 35 km/h (22 mph)!
I don't recall any mention of increased wheel WEIGHT when using bigger wider tyres. What thoughts do you have, especially on corrugations, of increased wear of axle, diff and suspension components. Cheers.
good point, I still stay below my upgraded GVM but switched from the Nitto Trail Grappler back to BFG now the KM3 as they are a few KG lighter per tyre, I could save further by switching to alloy wheels. The suspension is set up for 35" so no issue there, I have not had any early fatigue in any of my vehicles in regards to bigger tires but it will increase wear. I also have upgraded rear 300M axle now, as well as a front braced diff housing (but that was more for the GVM upgrade) as I mentioned if you go up to 35" it's not cheap and a few things need to be changed to increase overall strength.
In most cases, if increasing the tire size, beyond the size contained within the standard wheel wells, then it is also advisable to increase the brakes, as well as suspension, steering, and axel components. This is a good time to address axel gear ratios, as well as speedometer accuracy. Having slightly shorter gearing overall if pulling a heavy trailer is an advantage, as well as having better control over slow obstacles. Fitting the most suitable type of axel locking devices while doing this, saves on labour costs at a later stage.
Bigger is not always bad and other mods... the 200 for example with going from stock 31s to 33s will make the speedo spot on and was designed and tested for it. They go down to 31s for better emission tests and to limit warranty claims as over 2" Bigger is not roadworthy
Another thing I think is worthwhile mentioning with regard to larger tyres and wheels is the extra strain that is put on components, particularly IFS vehicles. 35" muddies may look and perform great, but the extra momentum generated by a much heavier wheel spinning at high speed and coming to a sudden stop can be bad news for cv's etc. Not as much of a problem with solid axles, but there is still increased wear and tear on components to say nothing of the increase on unsprung weight.
yes 100% I think I mention that a vehicle usually needs quite a few more upgrades to run 35" comfortably and without other things breaking. For most IFS vehicles, 33" is more realistic.
why would you buy an ifs 4x4,,there destines to break.. i dont have cv,s. i have uni,s. stronger, cheaper. buy america, not jeep..they dont break.. i only run 35,s. with 300hp. never broke anything. jap 4xx4rs only made to drive out the factory..period..bought a 1962 f100 4x4. v8.. still all std.. if your worried about breaking stuff, buy something decent, or stay home.. 1982 bronco.. broke the centre out the hub, still worked, just engaged on its own.. 1975 f250 highboy,,all still std.. plus i have a 4.2tdi s/duty 01. sht the alt after 230,k, 13 lt 100. all day..700nm..35,s..4.11 diffs.. as to sand driving, 12 psi, big tyres, lockers..not arb..
any opinions on performance of gas vs diesel for a rig optimized for sand? Here domestically we don't have many diesel options except for full size rigs where the gas vs diesel have sim HP but have always found the wider RPM band of a gas rig makes getting up some of the bigger dunes a bit easier
lol that's what I explain, and while footprint length is the main factor a little wider tyre will also bulge more on the side and offer a little extra there main factor is tyre diameter though.
_Hi! ! Good channel, interesting content. I subscribed to your channel. I look forward to an interesting video from you. Also, traveling with my channel is fun! Natalya_
Question! A E250 One wheel drive with LT tires on Sand? Recommend,? ( I know you were talking about 4wheeldrives) Do you deflate all 4 tires, or just the drive tire. Thanks
Hi mate I'm from nsw Australia I own a 2005 100 series V8 4.7L petrol I just bought the truck recently it has old man emu nitrocharger sport suspension on it it is also sitting on a set of 16" 79 series landcruiser rims with 265/75/R16 all terrain tyres i have no clue as to what size the lift is on the suspension as this is my first 4x4 I've owned and I'm wanting to upgrade to 35s whats required for that upgrade since you have done it figured I would ask you what you had to do in order to achieve that upgrade thanks
What an awesomely informative video!! Well done mate! 😀👍 Lots of great info there for the novice or experienced 4 wheeler. Learnt quite a bit considering I'm so experienced 😀😀😀 . . . . . Haha that's a bit of a joke but I did learn a lot 👌👍 keep up the quality content mate 👍
Hi I am planning a Simpson Desert trip west to east starting from Oodnadatta to Dalhousie Springs via the Public Access Route #8 and then to Birdsvile via the French Line and the QAA. I am in a 3lt Prado standard, no lft or changes to suspension, with a 150lt tank. My main concern is that I am running the factory stock tyres Dunlop Grandtrek AT25 tyres and I think I should take them off and use my choice Cooper AT3 LT Discoverer tyres. I know you are a BFG person, but I would appreciate your view. Should I definitely change tyres to an LT. Lots of desert stuff is not planned in the future and the vehicle is my only car, so didn't think a mud terrain tyre would be a long term tyre solution for me. What do think about changing over to the AT3 LT for the Simpson Desert and onwards. I was thinking also of putting them on King steel terras (like yours) instead of the stock alloys. Any comment on this as well would be grateful. Rob
yes I would 100% change to an LT, personally had not much luck with Cooper AT3 all delaminated on my Discovery 3, if you only do occasional trips get some cheap steel rims and put a set of AT/LT I would run either BFG KO2 or Nitto's and then you change back to your other wheels when you drive in town.
18:35 you are the first channel/person to ever explain *correctly* what traction control actually helps with. I've tried to tell people this for years and you nailed it, not all traction control systems are equal as well but for the good ones it truly is as you said a poor mans diff lock when you are open. 👌
Not really a poor man's diff lock, more a rich man's driving aid. it is correct that not all are equal though. some are really clunky and some just work on all sorts of terrain. Some of us don't want diff locks as it means completely rebuilding good axles and there is little need for it here.
Just on the traction boards, I travel alone and have carried my Treds for over five years. Only used them a few times (more to assist others than myself!) but they can be extremely useful both as an addition to other aids (lowering pressures, winching etc.) as well as on their own. Only last week I needed to cross a section of (river) beach with my tyres at 25/22 for the dirt roads I was travelling. Of course I hit the only section of deep, soft sand! Rather than have to lower my pressures to cross a short distance of sand, the Treds were in position in less than a minute, allowed me to drive out and continue on my way. They have their uses... Excellent video, thanks Stefan!
Very informative video. Thanks. If you could have put in the Amazon links of the items I would have bought some of them ( I'm a beginner. Learning sand driving ). It would help you earn a commission as well. Amazon affiliate.
Good video, thank you very much. For the record, I have done really good sand and dune driving with road tyres. Unless it is muddy (not often in the desert) the road tyres have very little dig into the sand and actually perform great.
Indeed, as I've highlighted in several of my videos, the tread pattern of tyres doesn't significantly impact performance on sand. However, it's crucial to note that road tyres are not suitable for extended sand driving or touring. This is because they possess a much weaker structure and aren't designed to be aired down. Additionally, they offer substantially less resistance to punctures and pinching compared to LT/AT or MT tyres. It's essential to choose the right tyre type to ensure safety and durability in these conditions. Also, it's important to remember that track conditions can quickly change, (I had rain in the Desert on several occasions) and navigating clay pans in the desert with road tyres is particularly challenging. Their lack of traction and durability under such conditions can lead to difficult and potentially unsafe situations.
If to climb an incline, traction is improved by having a low center of gravity, and where possible more load on the tires at the higher level while climbing. If going on a steep downgrade, move heavy items rear, and open the tail gate, to aid stability and possible braking, if any is possible.
Hm not really needed for sand driving. Your packing centre of gravity should be kept as low as possible anyway. Opening the rear tailgate is not a good idea in rough terrain. First gear low range and feathering the breaks is my approach.
man i thought i knew enough about sand driving... 4 minutes into the video and i learned something new! thanks man definitely going to subscribe...ok im going to continue the video now ... best of luck!
Excellent video, extremely informative really appreciated indeed can I please ask you which suspensions shock absorbers you advise for my Mitsubishi Pajero 2.4 diesel 2022 model we often drive on dunes and gravel road over here in the sultanate of Oman, and which tire size will be the best fitting for my 18 inch Alloy wheels if I would like to fit a bigger tire size from the original, one that I have now which 265/60/ R18?…?…?… many thanks indeed
My GMC Denali came with 22” inch wheels from factory, I really like the wheels but this is also my first year with the truck, I’m planning on just going to the sand pulling my trailer with my 2 quads, do you think it would be safe to air down?? Maybe to 22psi since you said you can air down to the size of your wheel, the sand place doesn’t have any hills or anything, is just flat sand where you have to get in to park if you are trying to camp on the dunes, tyre size is 275/50R22
you can air down a little but given how little sidewall you have it will be way easier to pinch the sidewall of a tyre. Saying that on flat sand driving accordingly you should be ok
i hate to say it but i have just taken of the BFG A/T of my 100 series they started of ok then the noise was unreal i started chasing bearing noise drive shaft then i replaced them with Nitto trail grapplers fantastic changed everything anyhow worked for me i was going mad with the noise thanks just my experience.
thanks for sharing your experience, I haven't had that issue with my KM3 but never tried A/T . I didn't mind the Trail Grapple either, I also had them for a year but its a very heavy tyre but also very strong.
yea I guess it depends, in 9 years I never needed or used a set (beside when training people how to use them) and I dare to say I have done more sand driving then most.
Can you touch onto more how you came to consideration that (good quality, arb, maxtrax) recovery boards are overrated in your opinion? I am very interested to learn the facts behind that from someone who is quite experienced as yourself in the real world out in the field.
I guess I should say overrated for my vehicle, set up and the way I drive, I have used them for training purposes many times when teaching 4w driving however in real live in my 9 years of driving I have never been stuck while touring were max tracks would have helped me. They are most useful in sand but I have never been stuck in sand where I could not self recover and drive out. If stuck in mud (which I try to avoid anyway) I rather use a winch. Maybe the day will come where I say I wish I had some MaxxTracks but so far it has not happened.
@@AlloffroadAu this makes sense and runs with all other aspects of what you detailed in this video. I guess to rephrase any vehicle without a front of rear working locker I'd say the boards heavily suited. A vehicle with front and rear working diff locks would probably not benefit at all. Thanks for responding with your honest feedback.
in sand is probably more the suspension travel then lockers, I probably can count on one hand how often I have used a locker in sand, but with my solid axle vehicle and long travel suspension I rarely uses contact to the ground and hence wont loose traction which then would require a locker.
The only time I ever got close to getting stuck in sand was on cross country desert trip on a patch of super fine silica bulldust sand. It took me a minute or so to get on to a spinifex clump and drove out from there. Soft, dry super soft sand is more challenging
Perfect video, thank you! What do you think about new defender ? It has pretty wide selection of terrain. I'm thinking of getting that car for desert off road. Do you think it will perform well at sand dunes in low range gear ?
I think it will have as many issues as the other modern Land Rovers or Range Rovers and while I like the look and comfort I would not purchase one for any offroad work beside the occasional fire trail or beach.
@@AlloffroadAu Is it because of the approaching angle? Do you think front bumper will touch sand and car will loose its momentum in front of sand dune?
Would be great to see a discussion on the tyres sizes with 4XOverland Andrew Saint Piere White. I am with you on it but given a lot of us are stuck at home maybe you could do a live chat with him or even with your audience.
hi Matt, thanks for the suggestion but I don't think I would be interested in that, to be honest all the best to him, but for my linking there is far to shallow research and the accompanying misinformation in his recent videos, I doubt we would get on common denominator. Thanks for your feedback though. Cheers Stefan
@@AlloffroadAu yeah fair call. You should do a live chat or something. A lot of ppl like myself cant get out so would enjoy the opportunity for some social interaction.
@@AlloffroadAu Hi I liked your video. I live in Saudi Arabia at the moment and here and other gulf states lots of people use desert sand tyres which are thin tall and have little thread only thin wavy lines. They are designed specifically for sand driving so will be totally useless on rocky and muddy tracks. Other people have done tests using AT and MT tyres and found AT tyres do not dig down when sand driving.
yea that was my bad split second decision as it looked better, but also no one in sight. I think also first year that sign was there (at least never noticed it before)
