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5 3D Printing Tips the ELITES don't want you to know...  

Maker's Muse
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Don't waste time and money on 3D Printing gimmicks! These are pro 3D Printing tips that I've picked up and want to share.
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9 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 708   
@albertpolak786
@albertpolak786 Год назад
I've worked at Prusa and can confirm we use the hole bringing trick everywhere all the time and it works really well. When modelling just offset each extrusion by your layer height (worth putting that in your variables for convenience). Also make little circular cutouts (dia cca 0.5mm) on each vertex of the hex pocket, ensures the corners of the hexnut fit in perfectly every time. Nose around some of the part files to see for yourself, there's a lot of these little tricks that will help you out!
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
The circular cut-outs on the corners are a great idea! I've been doing that for laser-cut and CNC parts for some time.
@charliebowen4232
@charliebowen4232 Год назад
So, how does one add that into their files? Is that on the CAD side or slicer?
@albertpolak786
@albertpolak786 Год назад
@@charliebowen4232 CAD. It's actually not too much of a hassle, when you draw the hexagon and the circle, just add a few lines tangent to the circle as you see done, circles in the corners, then make your extrusions. *OR* you could draw the negative of the hole and save it as a separate model, then put it into your slicer and cut it away from your existing part. Much more of a hassle, but may be useful if you can't edit the original.
@martylawson1638
@martylawson1638 Год назад
I've also done something similar for bridging the top of boxes. I'll make "roof joists" to bridge the full gap, then a few layers up I'll bridge the whole area between the joists. Ends up a lot cleaner.
@licensetodrive9930
@licensetodrive9930 Год назад
That hole bridging trick is awesome, I've used the first style of just creating an 0.2mm layer at the bottom of the screw hole for one of my designs on Thingiplace and that works well, but bridging the sides of the hexagonal hole like that = genius! Will definitely remember that one once I get back into designing after upgrading my 3D software, RS is forcing everyone using DesignSpark Mechanical to upgrade to V6.0, I've been using V2.0 for nearly 5 years until it stopped working a week ago.
@tinkerersagar
@tinkerersagar Год назад
0:13 1. The prusa research hole bridging trick 1:29 2. 3D print on G10 (Garolite) 2:30 3. Bed adhesion with glue stick + IPA 3:19 4. Drying filament with food dehydrator 4:40 5. Slice using STEP files 5:51 Bonus
@PeterPetermann
@PeterPetermann Год назад
thank you
@D4RKFiB3R
@D4RKFiB3R Год назад
Do any of those relate to the thumbnail?
@robin_fpv
@robin_fpv Год назад
​@@D4RKFiB3R dry Filament
@notmyname9062
@notmyname9062 5 месяцев назад
@@D4RKFiB3R Same here, also clicked the video because of the thumbnail and then wondered why there isn't even a single word about what the thumbnail shows.
@enzoscalone7929
@enzoscalone7929 Год назад
best tip: Level your bed looking at the skirt. I barely level my bed, but when I have to, I simply print with a 15 lines skirt and I just simply levelemy bed looking how the skirt is being printed.
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
It takes a bit of practice but that's a really fast way of dialing in a great first layer!
@retromodernart4426
@retromodernart4426 Год назад
@@MakersMuse It's not just a fast way of doing it, it's potentially the most accurate way without some kind of smart automated electromechanical method.
@H31MU7
@H31MU7 Год назад
@@retromodernart4426 I have a CRtouch with 144 point levelling and I still twist the dials while the skirt prints once you have it down you can get it levelled within the default 3 lines
@retromodernart4426
@retromodernart4426 Год назад
@@H31MU7 I meant a more sophisticated system than a CRtouch, but your point is valid, at the every least one reduces the errors that the mesh-leveling needs to compensate for by adjusting it manually too.
@meisievannancy
@meisievannancy 27 дней назад
I print four 0.2mm prints . One on each corner of the bed. Circles 10~15mm in diameter is ok. Then peel them off one by one and measure them with a vernier. Adjust the bed level thumb wheels which can be printed in Petg for the 3mm nuts to make adjustment easier.
@cleyfaye
@cleyfaye Год назад
Lots of modern "file formats" are just zip files. An interesting use is to embed the original source, for example your raw model design inside the 3mf in this case, or the ODT in a generated PDF, this kind of things. There's also ways to alter a zip file slightly so that it would still be a valid zip file when opened as such, but it can also act as another file format, like mixing a picture with a zip that would open as a picture with an image editor, and as a zip with an archive tool.
@NickSpirov
@NickSpirov Год назад
Micro$oft Office files (docx, xlsx) are also zip files. If you have a document with pictures inside, you can just open the archive and inside you can find the original images.
@Rocknoob49
@Rocknoob49 Год назад
could also use it as a crude watermark in case of redistribution
@anthonyrich1592
@anthonyrich1592 Год назад
I've found that the glue stick you use does actually matter. In the case of the UHU Stics, for example, I avoid the blue or purple "magic" versions because they use different formulas, break down under heat and just won't hold the prints down... use only the original white-capped version.
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
Solid advice. I've only ever used cheap white ones, so the basic formulations seem to be the way to go.
@oldmanbluntz
@oldmanbluntz Год назад
@@MakersMuse Good ol' Elmer's all purpose glue stick has been the best glue I've used yet. But any non-dyed ASTM rated gluestick works good.
@TheButchersbLock
@TheButchersbLock Год назад
Completely agree, the purple stuff hasn’t worked well for me in the past
@gardnertreneman3008
@gardnertreneman3008 Год назад
I just make a thin slurry of water and Elmer's white glue. To me it's easier to apply than glue stick + iso/water.
@DragnDon
@DragnDon Год назад
I’ve been using the Purple ones with no issues for regular PLA prints on my Ender 5 Plus. I suspect that your application of it’s use was likely to be off.
@DanielColson
@DanielColson Год назад
I got a G10 print surface after watching your video on that. Cheap and works great! Also, it might be useful to see a tutorial or something for creating those "prusa bridges" for supporting holes.
@meosalami5180
@meosalami5180 Год назад
G10 has been a game changer for me as well. And I second the bridging tutorial - it was just too fast in this video ... I get the point, but I don't get the process yet.
@badjackjack9473
@badjackjack9473 Год назад
lets say you have a 10mm deep hex hole going into a 10mm deep circular hole, after the 10mm of hex, make a .2mm rectangle that is the width of the circular hole in one direction, but all the way across the hex in the other, .2 above that make it a square with sides the size of the hole. by the 3rd layer you should be able to make a 9.4mm hole, for a total of 10mm including the supporting layers
@specialingu
@specialingu Год назад
i picked up a sheet for my ender 3 but had some trouble with it warping abit, and i needed to run 70c instead of 60 for prints to stick well :/
@FrodeBergetonNilsen
@FrodeBergetonNilsen 3 месяца назад
There is a way that works for smaller holes as well. Just use enough perimeters for the bridging layer, and it will fill inn one circle at a time. That trick effects the entire layer tough.
@i_might_be_lying
@i_might_be_lying Год назад
Great tips! Glue stick and IPA was too much work and too inconsistent for me, so I've mixed PVP-K30 powder (which is main "glue" part of glue sticks) and clean IPA and put it in a small spray bottle. I use it on glass and it works amazing! Super high adhesion when bed is hot and prints pop off when bed comes to room temperature. Works very consistently - haven't failed even once. The mixing ratio is 1:18 by weight, PVP-K30 powder to 99% IPA. It doesn't mix instantly, so it needs about 5 min constant stirring (I use wooden stick in a drill press for that))). Again, can't recommend this enough. Edit: changed PVP-30 to more correct PVP-K30
@VigiHunter
@VigiHunter Год назад
Thanks for the tip!
@GSprengt
@GSprengt Год назад
You can dry your filament even cheaper: use your printer bed. 60°C, filament spool on top, cardboard box and if you want ventilation, use the part cooling fan.
@DoubsGaming
@DoubsGaming Год назад
I need more details
@bartybum
@bartybum Год назад
@@DoubsGaming He means put your printer and spool into a cardboard box so that they stay dry
@deadly_dave
@deadly_dave Год назад
@@bartybum I don't think so. I think he means put your filament into an upside down open box on top of your print bed. Then set your print bed to 60°C and let the heat in the box dry out the filament. I'm not to sure what he means by the part cooling fan as ventilation. Perhaps take off the fan and put it in the box or build the box around the fan or something like that.
@iulianhagea5815
@iulianhagea5815 Год назад
Or just use your Oven maybe?
@deadly_dave
@deadly_dave Год назад
@@iulianhagea5815 Probably best to keep some filaments away from the oven you cook food in.
@hapskie
@hapskie Год назад
Another tip for printing material that warps easily is to use some basic white wood glue and spread it very thin and evenly on your print bed. Works wonders for me printing large ABS and Nylon prints on printers without enclosures.
@Ashgar225
@Ashgar225 Год назад
The Voron project also uses the hole bridging trick, and Prusa is where they got the idea. It gives very good results.
@qlum
@qlum Год назад
Another benefit from using step files in your slicer is that they are generally smaller and easier to edit later if you happened to lose the source file.
@LonghornTexasFan
@LonghornTexasFan Год назад
The G10 bed was the best advice you taught me about. I did have to prep the bed with wet sanding the gloss surface to a dull finish. Adhesion and finish is amazing. I wasn’t having a problem with PEI adhesion but didn’t care for the rough texture it left on the print. Thank you for your videos.
@myfelipe95
@myfelipe95 Год назад
what grit of sandpaper did you use? I'm' interested in this dull finish you've talked about.
@D-Vinko
@D-Vinko 6 месяцев назад
@@myfelipe95 Try 200-400# Just be aware of what finish you want, and remember that scratches are more visible on deeper cuts like those offered by lower grits
@GeneDascher
@GeneDascher Год назад
G10 is an AMAZING print surface. After seeing your original video on G10, I ordered some from McMaster-Carr. The ONLY issue I have with it is that It has to cool down a bit before pulling prints off, especially thin prints, or they can warp as the adhesion is so strong while it's hot. Once it cools down completely, my prints come off with NO force whatsoever. I can just pick them up, as they've already released. I don't use glue sticks or anything else.
@Zewwy_ca
@Zewwy_ca Год назад
❤ your videos, love how you share open ideas, and love your passion for 3D printing. 😊
@stevehazim5823
@stevehazim5823 Год назад
Always amazing content! You've really upped my 3D printing game over the years. I'm going to look into that Garolite print surface, I have a WhamBam print surface, but getting Carbon Fiber reinforced Nylon to stick to the PEX required a thick layer of glue stick.
@ivovass195
@ivovass195 Год назад
Straight and simple yet powerful tips. Awesome
@kellyjean4981
@kellyjean4981 Год назад
Great tips. Thank you! I always appreciate your videos
@goatmodegaming
@goatmodegaming Год назад
Here’s another great tip Solutions to problems are usually way more simpler than you may think
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
Very true, but it often takes some time to arrive at those simple solutions :)
@fheral
@fheral Год назад
Loved all the tips, specially the STEP one, ty for sharing 🙂
@ailivac
@ailivac Год назад
I came up with that same hole bridging trick a while ago. It seems like something slicers should be able to figure out how to do by themselves, by something like ordering the different parts of a bridge so that nothing is printed before being attached to existing material (the root of the problem is that normally all perimeters get printed first, even the ones "in the air"). SuperSlicer does have some experimental bridge perimeter options that seem tangentially related to this problem but it doesn't do quite the right thing yet. Also a way to get curves to print better (at least in the XY plane) with a traditional mesh workflow before STEP support gets better is to run Arc Welder on the G-code. I have this integrated into OctoPrint and use it on pretty much everything.
@mikibish
@mikibish Год назад
I've been looking for a sheet of G10 to fit my Anycubic Mega X ever since your first video about it but I've never found one at this mythical cheap price you claim, even sheets closer to standard bed sizes seem to be vastly more expensive than their official counterparts, and I'm talking like up to 10x more expensive sort of thing.
@paulhaddon7113
@paulhaddon7113 Год назад
In Australia Artisan Supplies has G10 Liner Material (300mx300mm) for $8. In the US knifemaking suppliers stock it - for example trugrit abrasives has a 12x12" .062" sheet for $18 (sku: G10-RR-12X12X.062)
@jeffharrison5265
@jeffharrison5265 Год назад
Great tips, especially the G10. Thanks!
@Mwwwwwwwwe
@Mwwwwwwwwe Год назад
Lol love the clickbait"These industry disrupting 3d printing tips"
@mikecrane2782
@mikecrane2782 Год назад
I used the STEP file import feature in Bambu Studio and the SoftFever (Orca) fork too, and it does makes a visible difference to circular lathed model parts, as well as overhangs. I could see artefacts in the STLs previously with other printers replicating the CAD mesh structure, and used to change the mesh properties in the CAD file export to try and reduce them. There was a bug in the STEP file import in Bambu Studio, not sure if Prusaslicer has captured this when they copied/forked from Bambu Studio.
@stefanandersson7519
@stefanandersson7519 Год назад
I think Bambu Lab at some point mentioned that they wanted people to move towards sharing 3MF-files over stls because that would mean you could embed all these extra things for the project, like a cover image, text description, settings, etc
@tomaszkarwik6357
@tomaszkarwik6357 Год назад
Thank you for the g10 recomendation. I love it
@kenisthistoo7499
@kenisthistoo7499 Год назад
Happy printing 😊
@martyb3783
@martyb3783 7 месяцев назад
Great information! Thanks!
@rossmarzano
@rossmarzano Год назад
I have a G11 sheet. It transformed my prints and even allows ABS to be printed with very good quality. Big fan
@bradmontgomery7363
@bradmontgomery7363 Год назад
I use glue sticks also, but I just use warm water to wash off the glue stick residue and it works faster and easier than using isopropyl alcohol or window cleaner. I use the purple Elmers washable School Glue sticks and have never had a problem with large flat prints staying stuck.
@Inventorsquare
@Inventorsquare Год назад
It’s important you have arc movements enabled in your firmware. If you can’t obtain a STP file, there are also tools to process Gcode to convert your G1 movements to G2 and G3 arc movements if curvatures are detected, with adjustable sensitivity.
@paradiselost9946
@paradiselost9946 Год назад
mmmmm, IJK coordinates...
@travistucker7317
@travistucker7317 Год назад
@@paradiselost9946 there we g0
@tsikada
@tsikada Год назад
Arcwelder?
@travistucker7317
@travistucker7317 Год назад
@@tsikada multiple linear moves into arcs
@hanslain9729
@hanslain9729 Год назад
Great work, Angus! Thank you!
@dkronst
@dkronst 3 месяца назад
I have to say that I've been doing this for a while, and the IPA/gluestick trick, although trivial in hind-sight, is AWESOME! This is the best time (and probably money too) saver I've had in a loooong time. Thanks!
@Promethium666
@Promethium666 Год назад
The glue stick + ipa trick is new to me, ive seen countless failures from caked beds where it looks like the entire bed is caked in the glue and it dries hard, when ive tried a glue stick i put a small circle of glue down and used a drop of water to make it into a fine solution that i spread around with a fan brush. Brilliant video as always sir, thank you! :)
@partsdave8943
@partsdave8943 Год назад
Thanks for sharing!
@SM3DCreations
@SM3DCreations Год назад
use a filament box upside down on a heat bed to dry filament ;)
@Opa_Andre
@Opa_Andre Год назад
I discovered this hole bridging trick by accident two weeks ago when I downloaded a printable measurement device from Printables which had a hex hole at the bottom for an M3 nut. Since my slicer, contrary to my expectation, did not inform me to activate support structures and the print ran without problems, I then took a closer look at the model in Blender. I discovered this trick with exactly one layer height for partial bridging in one direction, a second layer with further bridging in both directions and subsequent layers for the round hole and saved it in my mind as a clever idea for future models.
@franzschmidt7621
@franzschmidt7621 Год назад
So you convinced me finally to buy a sheet of g10 to try.
@ChrisHalden007
@ChrisHalden007 Год назад
Great video. Thanks
@kenstone5479
@kenstone5479 Год назад
Great info, Thanks!
@cidrjbr
@cidrjbr Год назад
Ilove the last tip. Awesome tip about vulnerability on that kind of files. Thx bro, nice vídeos
@fernandezvonschwephausen1979
I did buy a bottle of the Vision Miner Nano Coating a while back and it has been great on glass. I won't say it is better than a glue stick for adhesion necessarily, but it is less messy, doesn't need to be applied very often, and my bottle is still 3/4 full several years later. Releases like a dream once the bed cools, almost feels like static is all that is holding it. Still haven't tried the G10 yet, but it is on my list. Really excited about the hole bridging trick, can't wait to give that a shot! Great video as always!
@dog3y3
@dog3y3 Год назад
All very helpful tips. Thank you. The G10 is definitely a plus. We use glass on our Ultimaker, but G10 would definitely be a neat alternative we could use on some of our other hobby printers. And the dehydrator is a great idea.
@ericzwirnmann8151
@ericzwirnmann8151 Год назад
Love the tips. Can you talk more about the bridging trick? Is this all done in fusion 360? If so, need to watch for tolerances, otherwise screw heads might stick up over services and issues like that.
@redkingrauri3769
@redkingrauri3769 Год назад
For an additional tip for drying your filament, if you can't find a food dryer then what you can do is set your printer bed to 70 degrees C, then take the box that your filament came in and cut off the lid and punch a 3x3 grid of holes in the bottom with a pencil. Put your spool on the heated bed and put the box on top of it. It should dry your filament within about 5 hours. I've tried it. It dried out some bad PETG I had to be like new.
@Truth12345
@Truth12345 4 месяца назад
Instead of running your printer you could use a inexpensive 15W reptile heating pad.
@meganut7970
@meganut7970 Год назад
Thanks for the tip on the 3mf files!
@Doogleraia
@Doogleraia Год назад
Tested out step vs stl in flashprint, stl gave odd layers not aligning as you would expect, but the step file gave nicely aligned patterns in the slice with spiraling curves rather than slightly in some layers then moving the seam etc further up
@thek3743
@thek3743 Год назад
you have the best tips!
@chilllytube
@chilllytube 4 месяца назад
I think you were cleaning the bed with a paper towel. I used to do this and got variable adhesion. I changed to using a cotton cloth and the adhesion got MUCH better. I clean the bed with IPA using a cotton cloth. I discovered that paper towels leave a lot of very fine fibres on the bed which, I think, can disrupt the adhesion. Cotton cloth doesn't seem to. HTH
@therealtiamat
@therealtiamat Год назад
good research on 3D printing and a really interesting extra information in additon to this on 3mf... top top top!
@3DIYOriginal
@3DIYOriginal Год назад
Awesome tutorial !! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@hats_umei
@hats_umei Год назад
Thanks for the informations on .3MF. I gonna be aware now !
@dim1723
@dim1723 Год назад
Great tips and I'd suggest them. I use them when I have time to print these days.
@dim1723
@dim1723 Год назад
Keep up the great work!
@koolkevin2357
@koolkevin2357 Год назад
Totally Awesome DUDE!!! Thank You so much!.. Just another great reason I subscribed a couple years ago, Just WoW!
@Mr_Jimbo
@Mr_Jimbo Год назад
Cura used to have a solidworks integration plugin which stopped working around 5.0 introduction - the extra steps this leads to has really made me appreciate how much I relied on it
@SpinStar1956
@SpinStar1956 Год назад
Great Video! ❤
@jordangage3677
@jordangage3677 Год назад
Great job, Angus! As a semi-noob this is awesome!
@extectic
@extectic Год назад
I run Arc Welder in my Octoprint to convert steps to arcs. On round prints especially it looks way better. I have seen some artifacts I can't really pinpoint but overall it does well (with regards to the bit about STEP files).
@oorderr
@oorderr Год назад
You ve got a new subscriber ! Thanks for sharing.
@charlesorevkin7842
@charlesorevkin7842 Год назад
Thank you for your money saving suggestions! For drying filaments, it’s worth noting that the BambuLab X1C includes a filament drying menu function as standard…! You simply put the filament reel onto the print bed and tap on the « filament drying » function with the temperature desired, close the door, and voila! No extra cost.
@IrocZIV
@IrocZIV Год назад
Picked up some G10 after your first video, its been working great.
@frankdearr2772
@frankdearr2772 Месяц назад
great topic , thanks 👍
@SimonLasers
@SimonLasers Год назад
Did anyone else go looking for a 3mf version of the MakersMuse Maker coin to see what Angus had hidden in there?
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
Ah man that would have been a great easter egg!
@MLFranklin
@MLFranklin Год назад
This is great.
@carlbeech6155
@carlbeech6155 Год назад
Great stuff - useful practical information, as always :-D
@unitruth
@unitruth Год назад
Thank you
@marcfruchtman9473
@marcfruchtman9473 Год назад
G10 is amazing! Thanks for the tip re: High Temp G11... too.
@yannickpreault
@yannickpreault Год назад
Another one I used: put a small triangle cutout to guide the slicer for the start/end of the perimeter. So the junction is in the triangle tip and doesn't make a bump in a surface that should be smooth
@jumhig
@jumhig Год назад
Thanks for the info about .3mf files, pretty interesting.
@MikeRankinGrandPappy
@MikeRankinGrandPappy Год назад
Brilliant!
@dinosoarskill17
@dinosoarskill17 Год назад
Vision miner makes an adhesive which works amazing and lasts a while. dont have much time to deal with prints failing, especially for prototyping stuff and this has saved me many times
@DangitBob
@DangitBob Год назад
finally picked up some G10 last week and i love it so much, feels like a bit of a waste though having to cut down a 12x12 to fit the bed.
@haydnbao4219
@haydnbao4219 Год назад
Nice tips. Do you have any recommendations for distributing print files with modifier geometry in place?
@receiving9067
@receiving9067 3 месяца назад
Glue sticks is what saved me. I had loads of failures because of bed adhesion.
@ryanlillie8469
@ryanlillie8469 Год назад
Well, Ive been having first layer troubles with my anycubic vyper, I finally just gave up today. Decided I would just flip the removable bed over and try your glue and IP trick. Its not perfect but its going 500% better. Thanks!
@beatadalhagen
@beatadalhagen Год назад
I regularly use food dehydrator with my filament rolls. I made one of the trays into a container full of desiccant that fits into the storage bucket I use. It even has a section filled with color-change. Good point about keeping the bed clean. I have a spray bottle with a mix of 70% IPA and dissolved glue stick that I use before printing.
@mutlubasdas
@mutlubasdas Год назад
#3 is the best trick ever!
@JustMeKenny
@JustMeKenny 11 месяцев назад
I've been preaching your gluestick/isopropyl alcohol method far and wide. Every time I see a messy glued up bed I link to your original video.
@sleepib
@sleepib Год назад
The biggest advantage of slicing from a step file is the file size. In the cases where the default STL export wasn't satisfactory, a custom mesh tolerance gave best results.
@retro_boy_advance
@retro_boy_advance Год назад
Damn you elites! Always saving the best tips for yourselves!
@filamentalprintworks4598
@filamentalprintworks4598 5 месяцев назад
Love the Prusa gradual support trick and will definitely try to incorporate that into future designs. Also, the glue with ISO alcohol is the truth! I just make an X across the bed with the glue stick and give it a couple sprays of IPA then schmear it on nice and thin with a paper towel. Perfect every time! 👍
@victor08111
@victor08111 Год назад
I was looking for a steel spring bed for my ender 3 max. I'm glad this video reminded me of the g10, because I really want to test it before buying something expensive.
@k4x4map46
@k4x4map46 Год назад
kool!!! Thanks!!
@daliasprints9798
@daliasprints9798 Год назад
I guess I'm not elite because I absolutely want folks to dry their filament and stop printing string monsters. 😂 Regarding desiccant, another tip you should add is to throw out the useless silica gel and buy 4A molecular sieve. It will keep your filament bone dry for months in dryboxes or even half decent zip bags. And it costs about the same.
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
Very cool! I hadn't ever heard of that stuff before.
@OneHappyCrazyPerson
@OneHappyCrazyPerson Год назад
Its actually dangerous as when it absorb moisture it undergoes a exothermic reaction. Also its not easy to dry as silica gel because 4a needs to be heated under a high vacuum otherwise it wount be activated. Again dont use this stuff, its for the crazy ones that love the feeling things can burn down.
@notedmastrmind
@notedmastrmind Год назад
What would be the difference in using 4A and 13X?
@MarkusRe72
@MarkusRe72 Год назад
Thanks for this advice. I will receive my order soon and test it.
@engineer1692
@engineer1692 Год назад
Looks like a nice idea but it seems regenerating will be much more troublesome without an industrial oven. It looks like 4A zeolite requires 2 hours at 550C to regenerate. Whereas silica gel needs 2 hours at 120C.
@yzkn8848
@yzkn8848 Год назад
5:42 pro tip: Creality Slicer also has addons for solidworks and blender parts that you can directly open on.
@saddle1940
@saddle1940 Год назад
Just a thought about drying the filament. When you dry plastic like PLA, the water leaves, but now the plastic is full of voids that can be focus points for cracks and it's still brittle. Consider replacing the air in the voids with a hydrocarbon (like ethanol, turpentine or something) to soften the plastic cracks a bit. After drying, place it in a container full of those fumes for an hour.
@orionmec
@orionmec Год назад
Thanks Angus. Do you have a video on the bridging technique for the example?
@mickeyfilmer5551
@mickeyfilmer5551 Год назад
Silica gel cat litter is a fantastic dessicant and very cheap. AND... you can dry it in the microwave so it's reusable over and over again so you dont need an expensive food dehydrator either ! I use it all the time as the UK is quite wet most of the time.
@MakersMuse
@MakersMuse Год назад
Nice trick! Yeah it's crazy wet here too and it really does affect filament.
@msytdc1577
@msytdc1577 Год назад
Both silica beads and molecular sieve material is reusable by drying them out in a dehydrator or an oven.
@ignaztulpenstengle5092
@ignaztulpenstengle5092 11 месяцев назад
1000x 👍🏻 cause 1 is not enough 👍🏻👍🏻 thank you ... great video and cool tips 👍🏻
@nickanon329
@nickanon329 8 месяцев назад
I flipped my bed upside down and used the stainless steel side, isopropyl alcohol and gluestick, no more PINTA removal and no damage to the bed. I even went so far as to scuff up the surface on another one (upside down) with sand paper with iso and gluestick and adhesion is even better. Worked mint on PLA, PETG, and TPU.
@bellofbelmont
@bellofbelmont Год назад
Thank you. Very useful info. Jim Bell (Australia)
@DennisMurphey
@DennisMurphey Год назад
A good friend, when i suggested a new mother board, asked me if Maker's Muse has done it yet!!!! I started watching your channel and see why he asked me that. On the G10. I was shocked to see you recommend what I had stumbled onto. I went to Garolite several years ago, still have the same plate. I used Glue stick a lot. Then last fall I ran out glue Stick, and had read about cleaning with IPA. I scrubbed and scuffed up my Garolite cleaned it well and left it bare. Prints stuck just fine. Then i changed filament and found a thin layer of glue helped. The I used a cotton cloth soaked in IPA to smear the think glue layer around, it sticks better. So now, I have a thin layer of glue and smear it around with IPA after each PRINT! Just like you described. But now I want to replace the big heavy Aluminum bed frame with something much lighter. Any thoughts on a PETG CF Plate???? Dennis a Maker's Muse Believer
@Arek_R.
@Arek_R. Год назад
What if you get spray bottle with IPA in it then toss the glue stick inside let it dissolve and then you have a spray glue stick that doesnt need wiping and the application takes few seconds?
@sgsax
@sgsax Год назад
I've had 90% success rate with my coated glass Creality bed, but I really want to try PEI because I think it's a cool finish. I also want to try G10 to see if it's any better than what I'm getting now. Thanks for the great tips!
@ThingMan332
@ThingMan332 Год назад
It's crazy this man is a battle bot champion that makes vr lawnmowers and makes 3dprinting videos
@ashlaynesaar
@ashlaynesaar Год назад
I'm glad you brought up the 3MF thing at the end. That would be an easy vulnerability for malicious actors. Good looking out, mate!
@shroomy7199
@shroomy7199 Год назад
Very useful video thank you But I must know where di you get that fan from behind you lol
@flyguy8791
@flyguy8791 Год назад
Woah that 3MF trick (or issue) is really interesting.
@petermead7510
@petermead7510 Год назад
Hey just as a further tip on that food dehydrator.... I actually got one off a local internet site but I got a tall one. I cut out the bottom of each tray to make the inside open so I can stack 3 rolls of filament at a time.
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