Awesome build. You definitely have skills. I would have liked to see more with the engine running, see it in action both from drivers perspective and from outside the vehicle. That would be great. Love those diesels.
*HELLUVA* DIY build. Well done.👍 As for the full hydro: don't. You'll lose all road feel. Full hydro is only needed and recommended when your front stretch exceeds pitman arm and drag link geometry. Hydro assist will turn those 40s with ease while retaining all the road feel and feedback.
Thank you very much, I appreciate the info as well. I've driven a few full hydro jeeps on the highway and around town, I will probably still go full hydro with both my jeeps. The wife only daily drives the cummins jeep right now because I'm in the middle of rebuilding the motor in her trailblazer ss
@@517kdub My experienced suggestion would be to jump on pirate4x4 and ask "Full hydro or hydro assist for a daily driver/wheeler" to see what thoughts come your way from longtime experienced wheelers like myself. Also, if given the chance, drive a full hydro and a hydro-assist on the same stretch of road/trail and feel the difference. Personally, I can't stand not having the feedback that hydro-assist still gives. Cheers.
I have a 1982 Jeep scrambler with a 5.9 Cummins and it’s amazing I used dodge axles with lockers and a twin transfer case with twin stick set up rolling on 48 inch tires.
@@517kdub i live in West Virginia, own 2 jeeps a 1982 scrambler with a Cummins and a 2003 Jeep tj rubicon. original owner on both jeeps.super charged the wrangler, run an nv4500 in the scrambler use a twin disc clutch, retired, owned hot rod shops in nc moved back to wv because the wheeling sucked in nc. Opened restaurants and bars before i retired. Come to wv, we have just about everything, wheeled the rubicon in urock way back in the day.
This is no doubt one of the best deisel motors cummings ever built and some have 400.000 miles and still chuggin! awsome pick for the motor, i was going to go deisel but instead went for stroker 4.7 because it was a straight swap with no hiccups!. same computer and harness as stock, but nice build bro!.
Dude this build is sick! I had a 99 tj with the 4banger and 4.88s. Ended blowing the motor on the highway. (Obviously it wasn’t built for the highway!lol) I wanted to do a Cummins swap but I didn’t have the money at the time and needed a better daily driver so I just rebuilt the 4banger and ended up selling it. I wish I still had it now that I could afford to do something like this.
sweet set up, I am in the process of swapping mine, and looking to stick the fuel cell like you did to get some more stretch. Do you have a link to the fuel cell you used??
@@517kdub I purchased a 2021 Rubicon with a V6 .. if they offered Cummins that would be my number one choice. If I still own this jeep in like 10 years from now I would definitely make a swap .. Or if they decide to offer a Cummins I will trade it in
This is awesome. Great work!!! I’ll be done with school soon and getting a truck for towing but I’m building my 07 jk then also. I’m planning on stretching it and either putting in a Cummins or a hemi only time will tell
Awesome thank you, a cummins in a more door JK would be awesome!!! But a hemi in the JK is awesome too. Don't throw out the idea of an LS motor, great engine as well
I might’ve missed the comment of stretching , did you relocate rear wheel well & lengthen the tub ? Or is the body length still factory LJ ? So soft /hard top still fit ?
Bad ass build! How do the ORI struts hold up that weight? I’m building a ‘14 jk with a 12valve also on ORI struts. I had doubled up the struts on the front to compensate for the weight. Also running a water to air intercooler to save some weight.
Thanks man, the struts are awesome!!! I jump the jeep a lot at the dunes and at a lake bed by my house, it holds up great. My 12 valve is a non intercooled. Your Jeep will be sick!!! I've been thinking about building a more door JLU next
Amazing, I’ve have a 91 Intercooled 12v I bought for this conversion, and people were telling me it wouldn’t fit. I knew it would. You might have given me the motivation I need to rip that 4.0 motor out and get started. Any advice?
Hell yeah thanks man!! If your doing a 4 link rear make sure you give yourself room for exhaust to squeeze through somewhere. I took my grid heater off so I didn't have to cut another hole in my hood. I can't think of anything else right now
I've been watching to put a 12 valve in a JK But everyone says the engine is way too heavy for Rock crawling… What is your thought on that since you actually have a 12 valve in a Jeep Good call on dropping an automatic tranny, the NV 4500 manual Does not hold up to a built engine putting out more than 450 horsepower Anything higher than that you need to drop in an Eton 6 speed Or be constantly replacing your clutch
I love the way my wife's LJ works all around. I don't think it's to heavy for crawling, but that's my opinion. It does great on the highway on the way to the wheelin trails. It was awesome at Moab as well. I want to put a 12 valve in a more door JK as well. You should do it!!! You won't regret it
I’m seriously curious what the diy swap cost you. It looks absurdly good, and you could probably get away with selling conversion parts but seriously I would love to see a cost brake down.
Awesome thanks man, I sold the factory rubicon axles, motor, tranny and transfer case and got a good chunk of money from that. I bought a wrecked 1991 dodge W250 from a buddy of mine for $3000 and drove it home. Truck only had 180k on it. I'm about 2k into the front axle, 1k in the rear. I made the motor mounts and cross members, about $250. Link's and joints about $700. I don't really have a final cost on the tube for the tire carrier or rear frame material. I'd say I'm about $12k into it, probably a little more
@@517kdub I’ve got an 08 JK and I’m weighing which direction to go. But I do know I’d like to rip the 3.8 out, the electronics, the weak A/T and do something like a 4BT and NV4500 but who know where I’ll land.
I'll have to check when I get off work on the spring rates, but the Jeep handles great on and off road, the struts in the front are awesome and very tuneable. The kings in the rear are great as well but I haven't played with nitrogen pressure to much yet. But it drives great. my wife daily drives it
Thank you, it gets pretty good mileage for being on 40's, it's right around 17- 20. When I drive it I never care about the mileage. The wife daily drives it so she pays more attention to it
Just behind the front seats the rest of the frame is 2x3 1/4 wall box steel, and the frame is plated with 3/16 steel around the motor mounts. Plus I have supports from the shock hoops in the front going to the frame in critical areas
Hey I watched like 3 times but where is the intercooler? We are swapping my sons 1974 Jeep Cherokee and we need help and this is a huge inspiration! Thanks for doing this video I subscribed too!!!
@@517kdub oh my lands! I feel like an a$$ hat! Well I was too far in the weeds to see the flag! Thank you for not making me feel more dumb than I already feel.... lol
I bought a totalled 1991 w250 with 180k from a buddy of mine for $3000, so to get the motor in and running I'm right around $4500. The axles and suspension right around $8000
Sorry I didn't see your comment. To make a 14 bolt front axle you need to get a 14 bolt rear axle, pull the tubes out, press in new 1/2" x 3 1/2" tubes, get kingpin dana 60 inner "c"s and kingpin outers as well. Measure a bunch and weld the C's on and measure for new inner axle shafts
