5 Carpenter Tip  

You need hanger and structural screws

I usually stab a small flathead under the screw head so the threads have something to grab.

And he took it personally.😂

​@@williamroberts5716 That's how I do it too.

Look at this- 5 tips in under a minute! Usually have to go a half hour for that.

I wish they'd use proper hangers rather than hope that a few deck screws into the end grain is going to last or hold anything

Really?

So what?

that no one will ever notice

But they are real tips not just a diy idiot who discovers the actual use of a nail or how to screw a screw in the right way these are actual real world tips and hat chippys use

yeah and those holes cant be seen.

What does this mean? Can I use these screws to connect joints of furniture im making for my house?

There's still time!

Hangers are the way to go

Even if you use joist hangers, locating the beam into position using that simple batten method is a great idea. Don't be so negative, give credit where it's due.

Joist hangers, rafter tie-downs, strapping between sheathing. Entirely unnecessary. I've framed probably over 1,000 enormous houses using them, strictly to pass code. I've also renovated 100+ year old homes without any such measure, and stick framed, no joinery involved... barely any movement on floor joists. Most codes, such as 2 nails per side of a lateral stud are extraneous (down force, sheathing nailed in 6 spots over 4 feet, so 12 nails per stud), my old boss told me you could put a single 8 penny nail and once the sheathing is on, the stud won't move for another 100 years, he's right actually, think about it. What I've found to be the biggest enemy is either foundation or weather related (i.e. poor bedrock, rotting tree roots, sloppy mix... or weather, ice creep, improper vapor barrier and even simply drastic temp changes effect how well wood stays bonded). I get that these are lame tricks for non-carpenters, and non-framers since framers RARELY carry screws... the odd builder wants their subfloor "screwed and glued". That said, I only worked with the best, we still overbuilt everything.

@@Mike_H76what’s your recommendation then? Non-lame tricks.

@@DylanBegazo Lol, I guess my recommendation would be "learn how to hold a piece of wood while you nail it", though I have to admit there have been times like solo hanging rafters, when it helps to stab a nail (much like the screwed on piece of wood) and bend it over to act as a temporary hanger. You don't need a screw gun, screws and after you nail off, your hammer is already out to quickly pop out the hanger (which bent, is super fast to pull). But really, when you improvise on the fly instead of simply copying... it trains the brain to be capable of handling unfamiliar situations, kind of the point of being a carpenter (I never called myself one, I can frame and some other stuff). So far as a loose piece of wood, you could drop a nail in the top of the gap, start nailing it "proud" of where you want it, once you've got a bite, pull out the "gap nail" and keep hitting the other until it closes the gap and is flush. Tricks like that don't have to be taught... otherwise I'd just start a crew and hire monkeys.

"will" is a strong word. It's possible to learn how to install hangers first so the joist ends up even, level, and perpendicular.

can't be done any easier. Joists actually are not uniform. Some can be up to a 1/4 inch out from others. So I use the first method shown here to make a deck flush. I make them flush then attach the hangar. If you try to apply the hangar at the same time as making them flush it's a nightmare. The piece of wood for hanging them flush also temporary holds it while you put in the structural screws for the hangar so it does two jobs. It flushes the connection and holds it so your hands are free to drive the screws. @@elgringoec

@@marks6663 That's good, but time consuming. If you get your boards from the same pallet then the dimensional variations are minimized (all run through the same mill on the same setup). Of course you can't account for curves, warps, etc, other than to cull boards. They can be flat even at the ends and up and down across the center. It works for me to check the board heights real quick to see how uniform they are and find the hanger position to make the average flush, then install all the hangers with two screws on one side square. Drop in the joists then bring up the other side of the hanger while assuring the top is even then a couple screws in that side. Get both sides of each joist, check along the span, then come back and fill in all the screws. Now granted, that might take some practice to master, but it's pretty efficient and effective thereafter.

Stop it, get some help.

Yes it's called sheer rating, 16 penny nails have high sheer rating, screws , not so much

I thought construction screws were a thing though

@@robertwolfgan you are correct about construction screws being a “thing”, however it depends on the application. screws vs. nails, the most important factor to consider is the types of pressures that they can best withstand. Shear strength refers to the ability of a fastener or other construction element to withstand lateral, or side to side, pressures: Think of wind blowing against a house. This is where nails excel. Even if the pressure becomes extreme, they will bend rather than snap (as screws often will as they are typically made of hardened steel).

@@marleneloconte8576 screws are stronger all around? I challenge the veracity of your conclusions. First of all, what “tests” are you referring to? In tests for lateral movement (shear strength) nails are more ductile, therefore do a better job withstanding movement. Screws performed better in short term tests, however screws are more brittle and can fail quickly with repeated motion. So to sum up, there is sufficient evidence to support your claim that “screws are stronger all around”

You sound like the engineer who knows it all, but can't do any of the actual work lmao

If you want your projects to look like shit then sure.

Yup. And that's who they're intended for.

Whatcha mean

Especially low iq blcks

But, the demonstrator has only screws, clearly.

@@camcarb3 Yes, but if you're doing this kind of job you should have some clamps, if not then get some, they're not that expensive. Making extra holes like that will allow rot to get into the timber.

@@pauljb6207 My comment was merely satire. My humor streak is nearly as wide as my fastener collection so, while some may find it screwy, I think I nailed it.

Pretty sure those are coated deck screws... You'd never have a 6" brass screw like the one that was driven through the 4X4 upright. In fact; any screw shown would likely twist right off in the wood if it were brass.

How dare you refer to this man as sir. Sir.

@@plainandsimple1 How dare you you. How dare me sir.

How dare both of you for how daring eachother

How dare I love you all Sirs.

@@thomaseffertz2235 I double dog dare you to dare him to infinity and beyond sir. Good day

You’re cute. Milwaukee fuel > makita

Everyone has their opinion, I have owned Dewalt Makita and Milwaukee tools. I honestly have stuck with the Dewalt and use it almost daily. No issues with any of the others but they’ll all work for the job, just depends on preference. Some people don’t use their drills enough to buy Milwaukee tools….. I know quite a few in the trades that have switched to Milwaukee and I know a lot who have stayed trucking with Dewalt all along, have never heard to many complaints about any of the big 3. Again I have my opinion y’all have yours…. But Dewalt is just fine for me.

Milwaukee fuel is top quality, I have considered switching from makita however to change from blue to red , batteries alone would cost me over over a $1,000 My makita tool's are standing up well and I do not want multiple battery chargers, I would consider using yellow ( if I was given a paid sponsorship) love the corded saws

Screws are easier to get out and Easier to put in.

@@DareToBeatbox learn how to use a hammer.

@@mattberg916 learn how to use what’s best for the job. When building a deck, screws are better for everything.

@@DareToBeatbox agreed.

Not the right screws, but also not drywall

Screws are like 1”1/2 lol

yeah he would

He would be ok

These videos are intended for hokie homeowners like me so we don't get robbed by contractors like you.

@@erichsh58 yeah well don’t go crying about the quality of materials when Humpty Dumpty home owner falls off his deck or balcony cause the shit fell apart. Ain’t the materials, it’s called shoddy craftsmanship. Skilled trades cost money bud, shoulda picked up a drill instead of a pair of khakis.

What happens when or if the members are larger?

12ft pressure treated 2x12 isn’t heavy? Please!

All you do is tap a nail halfway in at the end of the joist and fold it over and the joist will hold on the ledger

16 penny nails will hold bud

When setting a heavy framing member, that is too large for this trick, the hanger should already be in position.

Right?!? I'm not an expert by no means, but I definitely would use joist hangers.

Hangers are for clothes

I think structural screws has been a thing for a couple of decades now.