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I don't either, but I have a couple I am friends with that do. The woman is good at running the tractor. The guy...not so much, so I do what I can to help them keep things running.
I’m a new tractor owner and to ‘remind’ me of the roll bar when I park it in my garage, I bought some ‘bird tape’ , it’s basically a roll of red shiny foil to distract birds, I cut different lengths of this reflective material and tape the ends to the inside of my garage door. When I open my garage door- these shiny tapes hang down and twirl in the breeze to warn me to STOP and lower my bar. When the garage door is closed they are out of the way. Works Great!
Thanks for the heads up; much of what you described I already knew, however a refresher can never hurt. Both mechanical & safety tips are always worth listening to. Being spared an engine, transmission, attachment or an arm, leg or a life; is MOST DEFINITELY worth taking the time to listen & watch a video like yours.
Did a pretty decent wheelie driving my tractor into my shed with the ROP up. Luckily going very slow speed and the only damage was to my pride. Haven't done it since.
I used to park my old little BX in the garage between my vehicles with the loader and bucket all the way up to shrink the tractors footprint but taking the leak down into consideration I would use a tow strap and loop the loader bucket to my non folding ROPS to keep the bucket up there. If I hadn't known that it would slowly leak down I would have damaged my vehicles. Your videos are great for bringing to light the little ins and outs of first time tractor ownership. I'm always appreciative that you all are not just about selling equipment but protecting everyones safety and equipment. Looking forward to the next videos. Stay warm!
I just spoke to a Messicks' salesman by phone. Very polite, patient, and helpful. He is searching for a used tractor, for my use mission and price range. Thanks Randy
Make sure its your tractor....verify with the paperwork that the serial number(s) match...if not you'll have all sorts of warranty issues and service issues. May sound stupid but it happens, paperwork gets shuffled, they grab the wrong pile of paperwork as they jump in the delivery truck, etc.
Here's another I just learned the hard way... don't use backhoe as a pull chain. After digging away at a large stump for a while, I finally got it to wobble back and forth like it was ready to break loose, but the backhoe bucket didn't quite have enough power to pull it all the way out. So in my excitement I decided to leave the bucket on the stump while using the tractor's 4 wheel drive to move forward (which I had done successfully once before). It did indeed pull the stump loose, but I also heard a bang. Upon inspection, it bent the dipper cylinder rod. Lesson learned.. wont do that again.
James T Limbs can lever you off the tractor! I ducked a big one, forgetting the roll bar behind me that caught it and acted as a fulcrum as we moved on forward... only made that mistake twice and lucky to get no worse than thrown clear.
Another mistake I'll see here and there is when someone with little equipment experience, doesn't grease a machine regularly, or removes the just about all the grease around a joint to make it "look clean". I understand that someone who has a new tractor/equipment wants the thing to look clean, but that grease in addition to lubricating is what keeps the dirt out of the pin/bushing area!
Dalton Chanch we’ve experienced this,bought a 2nd hand (used) tractor a couple of months ago, just this week we had to put in a new wheel bearing in the rear right axle, damn thing had never seen a grease gun in its life
Actually if you have too much grease coming out around a pin or bushing it can be sucked back in during operation. What this means is that you now have dirt mixed with grease around your pins and bushes - Just as bad if not worse than not greasing. If you can see the grease coming out during daily greasing you have greased too much. It should only push out during operation and when hot. 2 pumps of your grease gun should do the job.
Good point. That grease that's hanging out of the joint isn't doing a darn thing to help that bushing/ bearing. As soon as you see the grease coming out, it's time to stop instead of letting a glob of grease drop off and land on your floor so you can step in it and track it all over the place.
I think this can go either way, we have an old backhoe with really worn out pins and I like to push a little extra grease out of that sucker, but if it were a newer machine I would go a lot easier on the grease. On the newer machine I would increase my frequency but reduce the volume.
@@dorhocyn3 I would add that most of us are told to pump grease (and now, electrically) until we see at least a little coming out of the joint, where that applies. Otherwise how do we know any grease actually went in? Esp true with electric guns. They can make lots of noise and pump nothing, when out of grease or air locked.
Relax all the hydraulics when you shut it off... Set all the implements on the ground, shut off the engine, then hit all the hydraulic controls in both directions to release any pressure in the lines... This will make your hydraulic seals and cylinders last a lot longer...
As a plant operator we were always told to ground (and relax) all hydraulics ie: booms, buckets, implements etc. Not only for leaks but also if kids are playing on the machine. There has been fatalities and injuries when one kid is pretending to operate and another has been under a bucket or boom as it has come down. If hydraulic rams were left under load then we used a brace to go over the cylinder to prevent it from retracting. Even in new machines where there is a supposed check valve on the hydraulic pump when the machine isn't running - it is still a good practice.
This video is well presented in a manner that is right to-the-point. It’s smart and informational without wasting your time. My wife ran our tractor into the garage with the roll bar up and wedged it in the garage door opening so bad, I had to let the air out of the tires to move it back out - so, good advice! Thanks for video.
It's not just compact tractors I am constantly running 250+ hp tractors and we get a new one we also have to keep a close eye on them for the first couple of months because we have the same occurrences but ours are much bigger and dangerous so we check for the same things I'll probably use this as a training video it is the best I've seen so far also I am loving the new larger Kubota farm tractors the steering with the fwa is the best fwa steering system I've used makes pulling 11 row max 2 planter easy turning I'm not running over already planted rows
I've always taken care of my equipment. It's amazing the amount of money tractors cost. It's understandable that not everyone has a shed or shop to bring their equipment in out of the elements. There are many steps that you can take to protect your equipment even when they are parked outdoors. First, how about flipping the seat forward so the snow, rain, dirt and dust doesn't pile up and shorten the seats life. Second don't set your buckets to catch water and snow. They will rust. Beware of mice making nests under your hood and chewing your wires if your equipment is parked for extended periods of time. Check your tire pressure at least monthly. Mowers and blades rely on the correct tire pressure to cut properly. Most important, use your ROPS and seat belt. They will save your life. Enjoy your equipment :)
I don't have fancy expensive equipment, never have. However, taking a little extra time to keep my lawn tractor properly serviced has kept it in good condition for several years...my old garden tractor was 21 years old, and it got used and abused mowing 2 acres a week for all those years, and it still looked new. I had to replace the seat on it once as it had cracked over the years, but I always kept it covered after use. Actually used an old table cloth to cover it with and simply tied a rope around it to keep the wind from blowing the cover off it...and it was parked in my wood shed all the time when not in use, it wasn't out in the weather directly but it wasn't in a climate controlled building either. Never had any trouble with it up until the connecting rods decided to part ways sadly, loved that old Craftsman GT6000.
A 20 ft shipping container makes a wonderful garage for your compact tractor. Light utility (next frame size up, still appx 60 inch bucket) may need a "high cube" to have it fit with ROPS up.
Thank you for the informative video. I learned a few of these tips on my own after taking over the payments of a friend's New Holland TC29DA a few years back. The garage door vs ROPS was the first trial. Fortunately not too much damage to the door. And finding loose lug nuts on the rear after owning it for a year. May I add one more tip to your list? I was told by a contractor to never 'side load' your front loader bucket. That means to not lift or carry a heavy object on one corner without spreading the load out evenly in the bucket. Lifting from the corner only can bend the loader arm on that side. Caught my brother in law taking his large outboard boat motor from the driveway up to the barn about 50' away while the motor was hanging by a tow strap from just the corner of the bucket.
I agree. I put a large tree stump hang off the corner in my subcompact's FEL and it bent the bucket. No easy fix either. The entire loader assembly would need to be straightened by a body shop since it is now torqued.
Thanks for the helpful tips, I've research the compact tractor, for a year now. I started about 8 years ago buying landscaping equipment, for my property, and now I want a small tractor, so this video is extremely needed!!
Our primary tractor's when I was growing up on the farm were both utility models, 50 & 60 HP respectively. When my Dad bought his first no till grain drill, they were both to small, both in power as well as actual curb weight to pull it. After some soul searching, Dad bit the bullet and bought a used 95 HP 4×4 row crop. With a non foldable ROPS with a canopy. It didn't take long to rip the lights off of canopy.... Or for Dad to get himself into the worst stuck situation of his farming career... :-):-):-):-)
Another great video Neil. I love Kubota equipment and have several pieces. I have a L3830HST I bought new in 2006, it has +/-700 hours now. It still has the original battery in it. Still looks and performs like new.
I bought a B2410 in 2001 and just replaced the battery last year! Other than a hood prop I bent, a link that bent from a swivel point that rusted, and replacing the front spindle seals, it has been a hard worker. 6' finish mower, 5' tiller, Woods backhoe, 4' roughcut mower, and hours and hours of work. My one and only complaint, placement of the brake pedals.
@@ronbond9766 I don't have that problem. My porch is 14 ft. from the concrete floor and the shop door is a 12'x12' rollup. Makes it easy but getting anything inside is a challenge since it is full of "stuff". Now the warm weather is here so I can start working in it to clear some room.
Also if you go to unhook a backhoe in a building, unfold the outriggers and if you have a shed or a building with the rafters showing,try to strap the boom to the rafters. I learned this the hard way
I lowered mine before I even got home and totally removed the top section after a couple days of owning it. Bypassed the seat safety switch too the first day haha.
One way to easily remember is to get one of the bicycle flags on a fiberglass pole and tie it to the front end of the tractor. Set it so it is just the height of your garage door or maybe an inch or two higher. Easy reminder since it will hit first and move towards your face.
These are some pretty good tips. The other day as U was binding down my tractor on the trailer, my brother noticed that the lug bolts on one of the front wheels were loose to the point of not even being finger tight. Got to keep checking those little things that if unnoticed can be not so little like if you're going up or down a real steep hill and a wheel falls off. Not good at all.
I'll admit I get freaked out every time I find a drop of fluid on the garage floor and don't rest until I have identified the origin. I was also very surprised to find that implements and loaders can not only leak down when parked but they can also leak down while in use if you haven't touched the SCV control in a while! If you mow with the loader attached and raised up slightly you can find that the bucket will creep down while mowing even though the engine and hydraulic pump have been in operation.
Actually, equipment shouldn't normally leak. You may have a battery vent or coolant overflow expel some fluid under normal conditions but that's about it. There may be leaks that are deemed not worth fixing but it's still not normal. I watch my equipment very carefully. I always check the garage floor and periodically inspect underneath the chassis and I've never seen a single drop under my compact tractor or garden tractor.
Yep, tractors don't leak like they used to but it's normal with heavy equipment. I just wanted to let you know that cylinder leakdown isn't abnormal if happening over a long period of time but can be depending on how quickly it is happening. You shouldn't have any noticeable drop while simply holding the bucket off the ground during use. I can run a box blade, tiller, drag, post driver, whatever all day without the FEL leaking down. Check your FEL cylinders for scoring or leaks past the seal.
Lug nuts tights No.1 After almost having a front wheel fall off and almost turning into a disaster I now have all the lug nuts and rims marked with a white paint pen so I can tell at a glace if any loosened before each use. Had only 2 backed out nuts holding rim on ruining it and almost ruining axle shaft too.
Rewatching because it's important information. RE wheel lugs... I had torque checked in the morning. When I finished running the shredder that day, I was missing 4 out of 6 lugs on one wheel. I use blue LockTite on the wheel lugs now.
Joey Oliver hell I don’t know my dad has an old old farm all tractor and it sits out in the rain, sun, snow and it starts right up and does whatever is needed out of it, your statement of false
Goes for your cars and trucks too. I can't believe all the people with nice vehicles and their garage is too full of junk to be able to park them inside.
Watching this at 3:20 AM while transferring photos from iPhone to MacBook. I don’t owna. tractor yet. I have learned so much from the great videos on RU-vid.
#6 - If you use your tractor In the winter, you need to be mindful that water can build up in your hydraulic filter. That water can freeze and if you just jump in and start working your tractor, you filter can blow wide open spewing hydraulic fluid everywhere. It happened to me with a brand new Mahindra. I keep my tractor indoors now and when I can't, I let it warm up to the point I know for sure everything is above freezing before I operate the tractor.
If you have that much water in your hydraulic system then you have bigger problems then your filter splitting. That means you have a cracked breather cap or too low hydraulic fluid allowing condensation to build up in the tank and collecting in the fluid. Water in hydraulic oil in devastating to a pump. The water gets suspended in the oil as it draws from the bottom of the tank because the oil floats on top and when the gears mesh together to generate the flow necessary the water droplets explode and turn to micro pockets of steam which then start to pit the surfaces that the pump gears spin on. There are no rotating bearings in hydraulic pumps .They are lubricated by the film of oil that they are pumping . So as these surfaces become pitted by the micro explosions of steam they corrode the surfaces and the gap becomes larger and allows pressure to escape around the edges of the gears which then doesnt allow the pump to build up pressure to do the work. IE . Less the loader can lift and less the backhoe can dig out. Just remember the 3 C's of hydraulic fluid. Cool ( nothing above 110-120f) Clean.( 10 micron max size return filter size) Circulating ( same size reservoir as the pump does in a minute for intermittent use and double with a faned cooler if a constant running motor is in the system. Mahindra is a tractor designed and built in India. You have to ask yourself whens the last time you've seen alot of National Geographic videos of Indian people running snowblowers in sub freezing temperatures? When John Deere builds their tractors in the upper midwest and it can get to -40f in the winter in those areas . See my point
A while ago as I was loading my JD 4520 onto my trailer, my brother noticed that the front lug nuts had loosened right up. Fortunately, the holes in the wheels didn't get egg shaped, caught them in time. My tractor is a 2005 and I bought it used so it's a good idea to check the lug bolts on used tractor too, not just new ones.
You have full permission to drop one of those abused machines off at my house I'll fix er up and use it properly. No questions asked. Make sure it has a loader cab and backhoe attachments. As well as mower kits and snow blade set ups. I'll put my own stereo in it I've done brand new ones of that brand as a pro installer Dam were they fun to play with. But I can't afford to buy one. But I wouldn't kick it out of my yard. Same with an old 8n ford A massy, a deer or just about any brand. I'd love to have one. And I don't even own a farm. You can do so many things with those it would be worth it to have one where I live. There fun to play with, in the winter if the city streets too full of snow and you can't drive up the hill I'd get to go play and remove the snow. Lets say some farmer near by wants his fild mowed, or the weeds on the hwy are too tall to pull out of my area, some poor person ran off the road. Or I just need to clear a downed tree off the street. I could clear paths in the green belt to use as hicking trails.
What is a reasonable maximum distance to buy a tractor from a dealer? Do you service out 100 miles or more? What does it cost for a long range service stop?
You missed the biggest one. Most CUTs with loaders are never sold with proper rear ballast. This creates a tippy tractor that overloads the front axle when lifting.
Yep #1 is me soon as I pulled it off the trailer from the dealer. Wham, took down the part of the door frame and that wasn't the last time either, lol.
even after owning my machine for 6 years, I managed to do this after doing some work on it inside and then forgetting I placed the ROPS up, a split 2x6 came within inches of my head
I remember trying to merge on the interstate and I forgot to put my Kubota into 5th gear and hit the nitro turbo button. Once I figured that out, commuting was a cinch!
Size is not limited to tractors, I have seen people buy a new truck or SUV and find out the hard way it doesn't fit. They scrape the roof, rip the roof rack off, or crush the mirrors.
None of my vehicles have ever fit in the garage. My wife's vehicles do fit, but she has to close the mirrors to get it inside. I don't know why, but the door is not wide enough for a standard car or SUV.
in a lot of cases yes. however, its not wise to rely on them. Always pull the main backhoe arm as far up as you can, then pull the dipper in as you tuck the bucket inside of it. This way, in an emergency, the bucket will remain safely tucked inside two massive chunks of steel and aluminum.
For the booms yes, for the stabilizers, haven't seen them on the compact units, Woods, Kubota, or Deere. I have a woods, and the arms do leak down over time, especially more after a few years of use. Also for those that have their own seats, they can flip up and rest on the controls, so if no control locks, then a lever can be pushed that releases pressure on something. Always use the locks, even when just moving from one place to another.
I made the mistake of not having my new tractor in 4 wheel drive and low going down a small hill. Yes, I lost traction and I was gone. Thank The Lord the hill was small and open and I was able to stop before it got too bad. Lesson learned.
And along with your torque wrench, remember your Kubota equipment is "fastened" with Metric bolts and nuts! Standard "English" fasteners (USA) won't work!!! You're going to need both Metric and English wrenches and sockets to get the job done! (Bummer, I know.) Great job as usual Neil.
LOL, I hit my garage door frame, it popped my front wheels up. I traveled 6 inches wheels came down. Roll bars ended up between door bottom and door frame. I was trapped!! couldn't move tractor or fold roll bar. Had to let air out of tires to clear.
this guy is awesome...a salesman, but still awesome. I think it's funny he mentions we have to check our tire lugs....One of my rear tires was mounted backwards(shraeder valve was on the inside(dealer quality I guess). I also found extra bolts on the deck and a 3/8"-6" ratchet extension just resting on my HST guard. Should I buy a John Deere piece of garbage next time?
Good info. shared, thank you. "WHILE UNDER WARRANTY PERIOD", should I be able to have a Kubota service person do this service while within the warranty?" If... after 2hrs of operation(mentioned in video), on hr. gage, the wheel lugs to be torqued/tightened. Rim looks deep and I don't own a torque wrench come out and do that for each wheel? Thank you.
No1 mistake by majority of new compact tractor owners " They think 5hrs into using it they are a 40 year experienced farmer/equipment operator and get all fired up when people with experience point out what they are doing in real time or the YT channel they started in hopes of drawing attention so they can raise extra change...city folk just don't get it..
I'm happy I got a used cub. I don't have to worry about leaks(superior thermosyphon radiator doesn't have an overflow container), tires falling off, a pesky roll bar hitting stuff, or implements that even require the PTO(though some use belts attached to the PTO). Farmall Cub > those orange things.
I don’t think he means leak is in drip externally but more like an internal bypassing of the piston seal and allowing the loaded cylinder to slowly creep in one direction
I like your jacket. I am getti g a new bx1880 and one of those would look good on me. How can I get one? I like your video, too. I wish someone would have told me these things when I got my first tractor 7 years ago, which sadly was stolen. 😢 Anyway, I too, encountered these issues and nearly paniced, bad. I did, however, encounter 1 issue that was a manufacturer "brainfart". My hydraulic hoses for my backhoe had different colred ties to show where they connect to. I unhooked my mower, then backhoe, then reattatcjed it, to see if I could and connected blue to blue, red to red, and yellow to yellow only to find my loader nor hoe woukd function. I called a few dealers and one gave me a "secret" tech support number for dealers only and they helped me confirm that the ties were put on wring causing me to inadvertently connect it wrong. Thankfully, the tech said that even though they were backwards, it was still inline. Better than no connecting it at all. No damage done. Just had to remember to hook red to blue, etc...Could have got some ties, I guess, but thats all "water under the brige". I am going to get my baby bx as soon as I get his or her, home built. I have been torned between green, orange, and the red one. My other baby tractr is my profile pic and I miss her. 😢 I love your informative videos. I wish you were closer to me. I'd deinately give you my business.GOD Bless.
Here is the jacket he was wearing. If you want to order one for yourself, you can call our parts team for details, 800-222-3373. www.messicks.com/part/809CBKKU/809cbkku
Good to know, I'll keep an eye out for that, even for a used tractor, I'll ask if they have one et up for the specific tractor, can it be included with sale, ty.
We had a guy not grease his PTO for weeks then he tried to take it off and it pulled the hole PTO stub out of the tractor and spelled oil all over his field!!
I like Kubota and a good video for people new to equipment but I'll stick to my Deere. I've run them my whole life in every size possible and especially in the large models there cab is the best designed cab.
I wrapped a really heavy duty wire around my axle. Tore the seal out and really mucked it up. Had to have it picked up and taken to dealer. Costly mistake that one eh?
Keep the RPM's up and select the lowest range for what you are doing. Otherwise engine overheating will occur. Cost a customer a new head that was cracked. Goes for anything with a hydrostatic transmission. ex. Skid steers
I wish you guys were closer. I would have you service my Legacy XL from simplicity. Then I would let you sell me a bigger tractor on a trade in. Yes, I'm that guy.