5 Expert Table Saw Tips

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0:00 Introduction
0:25 Lining up the cut mark
1:44 Squaring the miter gauge
3:55 Keeping wood from pinching the blade
5:22 Cutting plastic
6:47 Setting the blade angle
9:36 Setting the miter gauge angle
Master craftsman and woodworking author Nick Engler reveals five professional secrets to help you get better results when using your table saw. For more table saw information of the printed variety, pick up a copy of Nick's book, "Using the Table Saw" from our store at workshopcompanionstore.com/pr... .
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Опубликовано:

19 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 271

@billhandymanbill2775 4 месяца назад

Thanks for the video tips. I have installed a magnetic relay "STOP" switch a my leg level on the table saw frame and by tapping the switch to turn off the table saw without having to take my hand and eyes off the wood and find the the table saw off switch. I don't use plastic push stick because they can shatter if they tough the blade and I don't use the "bird's mouth" push stick anymore because the pivot at the back of the wood and the front of the wood is free to rise up because of the rotating blade. Instead, I use a longer wooden push block that provide downward pressure and forward motion all in one movement to prevent kickback and improve table saw safety.

@xsbxsbxsb 2 года назад

Best time to discover Nick Engler - 10 years ago! 2nd best - right now! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome...I think..

@drochon6672 2 года назад

Great tips. I never thought of using my angle finder to set up my mitre fence.

@meatmaster8636 2 года назад

me either

@louislandi938 2 года назад

Excellent and impressive tips. Wish I knew them years ago. Many thanks!

@joemule8858 2 года назад

FANTASTIC TIPS FOR NEW TABLE SAW USER, THANK YOU!!!

@drsbrettsavage 2 года назад

Your generosity and knowledge is utterly welcome and amazing. Thank you

@sjfarrell2.03 2 года назад

Ill be using tip #5 tomorrow. Thanks 👍

@glencrandall7051 2 года назад

Some of these I knew but have forgotten. Did not know about cutting plastic. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Same to you.

@JohnM1774 2 года назад

Fantastic tips !!!!!! Thanks a million 🙂

@ellisreeves8936 3 года назад

Great tip Nick, so simple but some if them I have never of. Keep them coming

@WorkshopCompanion 3 года назад

Will do. And thanks.

@paytonjohnson660 2 года назад

Some great tips. Thank you

@keithkolbo2735 2 года назад

By far the best table saw tips I have seen. Thank you!

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@larryjacobs5713 2 года назад

Love your knowledge and explanation. Thank you so much

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@whomadethatsaltysoup 2 года назад

Thanks for sharing! Love the tip with the digital angle finder.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Thanks.

@michaelclark1605 2 года назад

Awesome, thanks for these!

@robertnolan667 2 года назад

great tips thank you

@farrierss1724 2 года назад

5 tips and somehow you went 6 for 6. Nice! One of the best "tips" video I have seen. I was a little worried that you were going to put the wedge in with the saw still running. Well done.

@mangakamotlomelo1532 2 месяца назад

You guys you are helping me more than I can possibly begin to explain for sharing may God bless you guys

@WorkshopCompanion 2 месяца назад

Thanks.

@grzesiekk1599 2 года назад

Thank you!

@tomjeffries58 2 года назад

Great tips!

@m.a.r.services5720 Год назад

Thanks! Great tips

@Habibulla.M 2 года назад

Nice and useful tips 👏

@willem878 Год назад

I must say that you gave a lot of tips in the years that I follw you. Please keep on doing. Even someone as me cannlearn from it. Making stuff dead accurate with my saw and most of it with red cedar. A 0.5 mm is my maximum deviation ;-)

@marty3553 2 года назад

Very helpful thanks 🙏

@marcothehammer 2 года назад

Great tips. My favorite is setting the miter gauge. I did not see that one coming!

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Thanks.

@theclosetcarpenter7172 2 года назад

These are really good tips. Especially the plastic cut. I use acrylic under everything I glue so I just have to clean the glue off when I'm done

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Good tip. Here, we use wax, waxed paper, and sheet plastic, depending.

@utoobia6872 5 месяцев назад

I just realized that I have now watched several of your videos since discovering your channel without subscribing, and felt like I was stealing. You sir are awesome, and I am just a new subscriber along for the ride.

@WorkshopCompanion 5 месяцев назад

Thanks...and welcome.

@almosh3271 2 года назад

Very nice tips, thanks for sharing

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Thanks.

@pipilim6491 2 года назад

Great teacher. Thanks for sharing.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@BoogieBear 2 года назад

Genius stuff, thank you

@sanjaydate 2 года назад

excellent tips and you explained it very well. Thank you sir. !!!

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@garryblack764 Год назад

Great video! Thank you

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Most welcome.

@tyronedeasbrailsford951 Год назад

Very informative! Thanks

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Most welcome.

@atgiovina Год назад

Nice tips!

@brucewelty7684 3 месяца назад

hmmm I tholught I had all your vids watched and liked.

@ldhoggaro5425 3 года назад

Great tips! Wish you would do a set for the Shopsmith table saw.

@kathrynnewton8721 Год назад

So informative, wished I’d known this before. I’m selling my Bosch table saw as I’m going to England. But hope I can buy another one when I’m settled. Thank you!

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Most welcome.

@bryenlink Год назад

This intro made my day. Fantastic.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Thanks for saying.

@ronh9384 Год назад

Great tips! Nice work Nick and Travis. If I had another thumb you would get 2 thumbs up! Something I found out while making a segmented turning was to zero the angle box (in the 8:55 minute mark) on the cast iron table instead of the throat plate. Also some angle boxes are very sensitive and if the aren’t 90 degrees (front to back) to the cast iron table when measuring it can slightly throw the angle off. It may have been my particular angle box. Was just my particular issue but when I started doing those two things it corrected my issue.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

You might want to watch or video on aligning and adjusting a table saw. In it, I suggest to the viewers that they spend some time carefully adjusting the throat plate so that its dead-on flush with the table. There are dozens of small measuring devices -- squares, triangles, height gauges, and so on that need to be set next to the saw blade. In order for them to be accurate, the throat plate has to be properly aligned. A digital angle finder is one of the very few that can be registered several inches away from the blade, then used to measured the blade position. I registered the angle finder off the throat plate because I know I can trust my throat plate -- with ALL of my measuring devices.

@newlibertarian139 2 года назад

For all the tips you discuss, there are just as many other tips by carefully watching. Thanks for the great content.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

You get it. You're most welcome.

@prsearls 2 года назад

Good tips. I have considered getting an inclinometer and after seeing this, I'll definitely get one. This will work well on setting the planer fence ninety degrees to the bed.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

It's one of those tools that, once you have it, you find a zillion uses for it. A month after purchase, you wonder how you ever did without it.

@MDay8 2 года назад

I just bought that digital one, and I completely forgot the zero-function, so thanks for reminding me that the ground on which you work on is never 0 degrees, haha

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

@@MDay8 So True. The hangar in which we have our shop is 100 years old, and our floor has been afflicted by tectonic drift over the century. Not only is no tool sitting level, no tool is at the same angle!

@brianstevens3858 2 года назад

As usual all nice stuff, I do wonder how many peeps don't know the run grooves for the sled are parallel with the blade and thus make a good source of squaring....

@newlab20 Год назад

I really appreciate you videos!!

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Thank you. We appreciate your kind words.

@Sidorvm 7 месяцев назад

This is great set of tips!

@WorkshopCompanion 7 месяцев назад

Thanks for saying.

@MilmoWood 6 месяцев назад

Brilliant

@franciscodsouza4757 2 года назад

Thanks. Learnt a lots on your video.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@divinenonbinary 5 месяцев назад

Most useful RU-vid channel!!

@fayz44awad 2 года назад

Thanks 👌

@Oh6Torch Год назад

I just discovered your channel. You sir, have earned a subscriber.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Thanks...and welcome!

@intrepidus3378 2 года назад

point 2 - you said checking the miter gauge against the fence for square will tell you if the gauge is square to the blade, assuming the fence is parallel to the blade. That is true. But it's really not what you should be looking for. You can make a square cut using a miter gauge even if the gauge is not square to the blade. The key is that the fence for the miter gauge must be square to the miter slot/miter bar. Love the tip about using the inclinometer to set the bevel angles. I have one. I don't know why I don't use it more.

@Martin-yl5zb 2 года назад

I watched quite a few tips videos before this one. You showed some new tricks that are very practical. Thank you!!

@fireworxz 2 года назад

Thanks

@dgale1023 3 месяца назад

thanks for the tip on opening the kerf. I was watching for the only solution for what I am doing as I use a 7-1/4" blade 1/8" there is no splitter for that. Don't anybody jump in and say thin kerf microjig won't work. Thanks for your knowledge. Now I need to subscribe To get more info. Thank you

@WorkshopCompanion 3 месяца назад

Most welcome.

@valeriehenschel1590 Год назад

Thank you.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Most welcome.

@Beefbananas 2 года назад

Good tips! How come you don't use a riving knife or splitter?

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Thanks. It is an old, old saw and there are no riving knives available for it, and the mangled splitter that came with it interferes with the overhead guard we installed. (No, the Delta Disappearing Splitter won't work; we've tried.) I have gotten used to turning off the saw when the blade binds and inserting a small wedge in the kerf.

@meangreen7389 2 года назад

Thank you from a new subscriber.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

You're welcome...and welcome!

@huejanus5505 2 года назад

When cutting strips of laminate, i spray some contact cement on a piece of mdf, only, stick the laminate to it and make the cuts. You can cut extremely thin strips with no chipping and it’s easily removable afterwards.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Good tip.

@vjurco 2 года назад

Good tips, thanks. Just a note... +/- 0,1 deg precision may easily result to 66,4 or 66,6 and you never know. Inclinometr is very useful but in such a case, when you need critical precision, I would rather use calibrated ruler or something like that.

@steves7896 2 года назад

I hate stopping my saw in the middle of a cut. And I don't like stopping the wood either if I can avoid it. Unless I make a complete, continuous full cut, there's always some little ridge or burn mark on one side of the kerf or the other. As always, great content.

@brianstevens3858 2 года назад

the trick is after saw winds down, move it back about an 1/8th inch or so so teeth are free in the kerf, then don't re-engage until blade reaches full speed.

@dand3975 2 года назад

I cut lexan last week with a carbide rip blade, worked just fine. I cut same lexan in power miter saw, very bad idea resulted in bad kickback. I have had good results cutting 1/8" aluminum on tablesaw with fine tooth paneling blade on tablesaw. Great tips on the use of the inclomometer (digital angle finder) thank you for all the tablesaw tips in this video.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@brianstevens3858 2 года назад

Yea a paneling blade will also cut most roof steel in a circular saw, but makes hella racket and leaves sharp edges that must be dealt with, so gloves and ear protection a must.

@barrywaitkus3739 Год назад

You are do good.

@bfflorida2311 2 года назад

Great video and tips as always 👌 👍👍👍 Just some observations tips... 4.o = safety tip... When used as shown, the blade is pushing the cut part forward (outfeed), so make sure you are expecting that or part will fly 😀. Normally, resistance is in the direction of the operator. ALSO, very important DO NOT use carbide tip blades to cut backward !! 5.o = if you place an inclinometer as high as you can (vertically from the table top), even more accurate reading is possible. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us.

@HepauDK 2 года назад

It doesnt matter how high you place the inclinometer. If the bar or blade is perfectly straight, the angle and precision will be the same. If they are not, you will not be able to trust ANY measurement. The only time extra length will matter, is if you use the 3-4-5 (Pythagoras) method to square something.

@lcmmassa8571 Год назад

Thanks. I may try using my table saw again. Can I also cut plexiglass as you demoed the plastic cutting? Does thickness or bulletproof plesiglass change the matter and how?

@Shadow74342 Год назад

Brilliant...the wedge thing cures a common problem....anyone know how to fix a Makita fence that doesnt seat in a straight line?

@lemhanback9595 2 года назад

Were you ever a woodshop teacher? Because you should have been. Your personality makes even the things that may be mundane and makes them fun to learn. Thank you sir.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

You are most welcome. I taught craftsmanship and wood engineering for many years at the University of Cincinnati.

@lemhanback9595 2 года назад

@@WorkshopCompanion sure wish I could have learned from you then, but that's ok I'm learning now. Just hoping 52 is not too late. 😂😂😂

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

@@lemhanback9595 Have two decades on you and I can say with certainty, it's not.

@connecticutaggie 2 года назад

Great tips. Note: As an alternative to Tip 1, I often lift the pack of the piece up, keeping the edge flush to the fence and more the piece forward such the the marked edge is lowered to contact the blade. I then line up the mark with the blade then carefully lower the piece back down making sure it does not move side-to-side. It was probably not as accurate as using a straight edge but better than eyeing it.

@rodneywheeler2278 5 месяцев назад

Nice tips. Please use your upper saw guard to encourage everyone to do so.

@mattedwards4533 2 года назад

Another well done video! I was thinking that on your first part on cutting a board to a specific length why not use the kerf on your miter guage board to measure?

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

It works for a short while, but normal saw runout soon widens the kerf and the accuracy evaporates.

@sethnoble610 2 года назад

I know this an older video, but I hope you have replaced the bearings on that tablesaw by now. They're screaming for some love ole' son!! Love the videos

@thedevilinthecircuit1414 9 месяцев назад

When using the digital angle gauge ("inclinometer"), it is critical to rest it on the table and then rock it up onto the blade. The reason is any slight tilt of the device forward or back will result in an imperfect reading.

@HepauDK 2 года назад

The last one only works if the miter bar is made of steel. If it's aluminium, you will have to hold the inclinometer to the bar yourself. My own inclinometer measures to 1/20th degree (Diesella IP54 bevel box, item no. 10453500). :)

@user-yt4xu4en5f 7 месяцев назад

The dialogue on this video is hard panned to the left channel. Not sure if anyone has mentioned it. 👍🏻 love your stuff!!

@WorkshopCompanion 7 месяцев назад

We're aware; rendering mistake made early on, plan to redo the video sometime in the future. Thanks for the kids words.

@connecticutaggie 2 года назад

#2 assumes is that the faces or the piece are parallel. One way to check that is to flip the other piece at the cut line and stack it on top of the first piece. This puts the same face against the fence. Now run your finger on the cut end and make sure the piece line up perfectly. Now flip the pieces together so the other side is against the fence and check again. If one matches but the other doesn't the faces are not parallel. If they are both off then likely the cut was not square.

@CowsGoM3ow 6 месяцев назад

I thought you were only to use jointed boards on a table saw unless it's clamped in a jig? Ofc you don't have to, but it's not as safe. Edit: Jointed, then can be squared on a table saw/planer

@connecticutaggie 6 месяцев назад

@@CowsGoM3ow Jointed boards do not necessarily make a board safe or unsafe for use on a table saw. Contractors rip lumber store wood all the time and almost nothing that comes out of lumber store is square or parallel. You just have to use the right technique for the board you rea cutting.

@CowsGoM3ow 6 месяцев назад

@@connecticutaggie Ofc you can use unjointed boards, but jointed boards(2 sides) are safer. If you think that's wrong, then go rip a log on a table saw without a jig. Or a extremely cupped/twisted board. And if you are checking for accuracy anyways like you were nitpicking orginally, you would want a square or 2S jointed board.

@reyreyna1068 2 года назад

Great video Sir 👍 what kind of blade did u used?

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

FS Tool

@pumpkinheadghoul 2 года назад

QUESTION: Are you supposed to zero out your inclinometer on the table surface, or on the table insert? I always thought it was supposed to be on the table surface, since there's where most of your wood will be riding. However, you zeroed yours out on the insert. So which way is correct? Yes, I realize in a perfect world the insert would be perfectly flush with the table top all the way across, but I think we all know we just get as close as possible when adjusting our inserts to be as flush with the table surface, because in reality, as long as the insert is very close and not proud of the table top, then that's really what we're shooting for. I just want to know I'm zeroing out my inclinometer correctly for the most accurate blade angle I can get.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

There are two schools of thought on this subject. The first -- the "close enough" school you allude to -- is that you shouldn't use the insert because it may not be flush or level with the table. The second is that you should carefully align and level your insert so that you can confidently use the entire surface around the saw blade for measurement. I attend the second school. This not only lets me use the inclinometer close to the blade, I frequently employ a set of small engineer's squares, triangles, and height gauges for set-up. These would be useless if I couldn't trust the insert surface.

@kevinthomson6324 Год назад

That square to the blade to line up your cut line is so simple it’s genius. I’m just bitter this whole time I never thought of it. At least now I have a excuse to go buy a small square.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

It's always good to have an excuse the buy a new tool.

@rickhayhoe Год назад

@@WorkshopCompanion Tell my wife about it!

@ypaulbrown 2 года назад

Good tips, but #1 could also be done by lining up to the kerf on your miter gauge to your mark if you mark piece on other side and have a fresh kerf. enjoyed this....cheers from an old geezer in Orlando, Florida....Paul

@acerjuglans383 Год назад

I was just about to say the same exact thing.

@ivanboschi3084 Год назад

I do the same with miter saw fence

@ivanboschi3084 Год назад

I do the same with miter saw fence

@chrisyu98 2 года назад

Great tips, can you show the start/stop control for the table saw. That looks like a much more useful location rather than under the saw.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

I think so. Safer, too. It came with an overhead guard that we installed on the saw about 35 years ago.

@thegringobaker Год назад

@@WorkshopCompanion I've always made sure that my off switch is placed where I can hit it with my leg... I don't need to let go off anything to shut the saw off in an emergency (which, thankfully, I've not had yet).

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

@@thegringobaker There are good arguments for a knee switch, but there are also some against. The switch is not in your line of sight, so there's a chance you'll miss it on the first kick. And you have to take one foot off the ground, so you're off balance for a second. That can be dangerous as well. I advise students to use the set-up that works best for the way they work -- normally, the set-up with which you feel the most comfortable and confident.

@thegringobaker Год назад

@@WorkshopCompanion Yes, there are valid arguments for both ways. I do agree that some of the under- saw switches are not exactly a safety feature as they are so far under the saw that finding them easily is sometimes not possible. The factory location on mine is very good... allowing me to shut it off with a simple knee bend... not foot raising required. I'd like to mention that i found the video entertaining and educational. I enjoyed it.

@lk-music Год назад

I needed to cut plastic once, I found my ceramic tile blade, dry, did best out of what tools I had available.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

I've used a tile blade, too, on occasion. Thanks for the tip.

@patrickmclaughlin6013 2 года назад

on the inclinometer, do you think a cell phone could be used instead? I have an app on the phone for measuring angles like for a roof pitch, maybe not accurate enough?

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

If you watch other videos, you'll see that I use a smart phone app called "Rotating Sphere Inclinometer" all the time. It's no longer available, but "iLevel" does just as well. I also have a magnetic back for my phone so I the stick it to tables and fences.

@bradzurcher2775 Год назад

Fascinating stuff. Thank you for sharing with us.

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

Most welcome.

@lassanalibadu4317 2 года назад

Your wery xsalant I lay k your program. I am rohana in Sri Lanka thank you

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Most welcome.

@michaelmurphy4013 2 года назад

Great tips, learned something. Sounds like the bearings in your table saw need replacing

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Noted. Trying to find time to tear it down.

@markywellsboy2182 2 года назад

I thought the same. Sounds as rough as a badger's arse. Some good tips, though. I enjoy watching these. It's always nice to see a different solution to common problems.

@travispark2226 2 года назад

Good tips. I thought you were going to throw your hammer at the dog in the beginning though. Lol.

@Duckmanloren 2 года назад

Could you please tell me which Inclinometer you are using? I would like to by that one you have as well. I bought a different one and sent it back because it was all over the place as far as accuracy. Thank you

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Look at Neoteck. That's what I would buy today.

@jimjackson5139 2 года назад

I have a question I have an older Craftsman table say and it does not have a kerf. Where would I go to find one or make one?

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

I suppose what you mean by a "kerf" is a riving knife or splitter. If you google " sears craftsman table saw parts," you will find several suppliers of replacement parts, including Sears Parts Direct. They may be able to help you. I have an older (50+ years) Delta table saw. When it was made, there was no such thing as riving knives, and there are none available for it as an accessory. We recently made a riving knife from .105"-thick steel that will fit the old saw guard mount. (Most thin-kerf saw blades are .110" thick. The .105" steel provides .005" clearance if I mount my thinnest blade.) You may have to do something similar depending on your saw model and what's available.

@clowning76 Год назад

Hello i like your video but can i give you a tip. on 1:20 instead of marking the line on side of the blade and you have to use the straight square tool .. Mark line on the opposite side and align it to the cut out mark ..

@gregcorrell396 Год назад

Hey do you have to draw an x on the board when checking fence for square

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

I suggest you draw an X on one face of a board when checking that the miter gauge is square to the blade. It simply marks the board so you know which face is up or down after you cut through the X and lay the two parts against the fence. It also shows you that you're laying one cut end against the other. It's not absolutely necessary if you trust your memory. I don't.

@JohnRR Год назад

Hi, beginner here. Should i remove my riving thingy for tip 3?

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

If your saw has a riving knife, there is no need to remove it (and it would be safer if your didn't). Ours doesn't -- it's over 60 years old and was manufactured before anyone knew what a riving knife was. Additionally, there are no retrofit kits that can be adapted to fit it. That is why there is no knife present in any of the tips.

@tornadokat 2 года назад

#1: Couldn't you extend the line drawn with the square all the way across the wood so it lines up with the kerf cut on the fence at the back and position the wood that way?

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Of course you can; there is more than one way to skin this cat. But the problem with using the fence as a reference is the slop or "lash" in the system. The miter gauge guide bar is a few thousand's of an inch smaller than the slot it rides in -- otherwise it would be impossible to slide. Furthermore, every saw blade has a small amount of runout. Because of these things, that kerf in the fence will grow wider as you make successive cuts. You can correct for some of this lash by consistently pushing the miter gauge to the right or left (choose one) as you cut, and this will help extend the usefulness of the kerf. But using a saw tooth as a reference will always be accurate.

@mblatner 6 месяцев назад

Sounds like the saw is getting ready for some new bearings

@WorkshopCompanion 6 месяцев назад

Yeah, we were thinking about replacing the bearings but decided to find a slightly newer version of the same model. The slightly newer version has adjustments that allow you to further adjust the angle of the blade. - Travis

@b3arwithm3 Год назад

For the tip #3, won't it burn the wood if we stop feeding it?

@Boobtube. Год назад

what is the name of that tool u use at 5:14 to push the wood?

@WorkshopCompanion Год назад

A push stick.

@roytyner5690 4 месяца назад

you table saw angles a different direction form mine..i was picturing making a cut on yours and it looked not only impossible but scary as hell

@rickhayhoe Год назад

Wow! Who'da thought of turning the blade backwards?

@mrlong12u1 2 года назад

Not sure because I'm a beginner, but did you do a cut holding both pieces while cutting? most vids that I've seen says that is a no no. (at 3:40)

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

In every cut, you must maintain control of both pieces -- the cut piece and the cut-off. Oftentimes you do this with the aid of a push stick, miter gauge, or by clamping one or both pieces to a sled or extension, but both pieces must be guided past and/or away from the blade as the cut finishes. Loose pieces on a table saw -- especially small pieces -- may shift due to vibration. If they slide against the spinning saw blade, the blade may catch and fling them at you. There are exceptions -- occasionally you need to stop feeding the wood and turn off the saw, but even then you have to maintain control of both pieces so they remain where they are until after the blade stops.

@mrlong12u1 2 года назад

@@WorkshopCompanion Very much appreciated! Thank you for the explination.

@Richard-dh8ny 7 месяцев назад

Love the tips, but you lost me on the cross cut alignment. I was taught to always square cuts with blade or the miter gauges track. By aligning to your fence you have to know or assume the fence is square with your blade, but that may not be the case. Correct me if I'm overlooking something. :)

@osmanvincent1975 2 года назад

For tip #2, align the miter gage. Slide the gage out, slide back in upside down, with the miter part against the fence guide bar. Loosen and retighten the knob. Done, No fiddling.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

This presumes that the fence guide bar is square to the miter slot, and this is not always the case . It's not on my saw, but if it is on yours this would be a good way to go.

@Richard-wk9le 2 года назад

Great tips, there is another way to do #1 Take a carpenters square up against the blade and mark a cut line right on the table saw , than extend the line on the peace you are cutting to the front edge and line up the two marks and cut, the line will have to be "Renewed " every so often and also for different blades

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

Good tip; thanks for sharing. Craftsman once made a table saw with a plastic insert for this very purpose -- the plastic took the pencil marks well, but there was a problem. You had to use an extremely sharp pencil. If you marked with one that's even slightly dull, the mark would be slightly to one side of the straightedge. The more rounded the pencil point, the further the mark was from where you wanted it. When I tested this saw, I found it more accurate to use a fine-point Sharpie. You could press the fiber tip right up against the straightedge and the mark lasted longer than pencil. You could easily "erase" the mark with a little naptha.

@fredsasse9973 2 года назад

Another way is to use your square to extend your mark to the edge of the piece to be cut. Then place the piece in the miter gage. With the saw off slide the miter gage forward and align the mark on the edge of the workpiece with the tooth on the blade. I don't know if I explained this clearly or not but this method has resulted in accurate cuts for me.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

@@fredsasse9973 It's a good technique, I used it often until an old craftsman showed me how to use a square to align the mark and the blade. One of the things I love about woodworking is that there are usually many ways to accomplish a specific task.

@robertharris1748 2 года назад

@@WorkshopCompanion One thing I noticed is that your kerf came right up to the mark, not past it. I presume that any method (and yours seems the simplest) has to make sure to pick the correct tooth (i.e. the one set to the edge you're measuring on) to mark from.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

@@robertharris1748 This is true for saws where the teeth are set left and right. On many carbide-tooth saws, the teeth are exactly the same width, independent of how they're ground. As for the pencil line, I was taught to "save the line" rather than cut it. The area at the edge of a pencil line where light meets dark is much smaller than the actual width of the line itself. And I only use pencils for videos, when the camera needs to see what I'm cutting. When doing actual work, I mark cuts with a sharp knife -- much more precise than a pencil.

@gregorymoreno3406 Месяц назад

no riving knife? no push block or push stick?

@richardmoore7218 2 года назад

While you were drawing a line with the square you could have drawn it across the board and then lined the mark with the cut in the cross cut guide and thus eliminating the use of the square against the blade.

@WorkshopCompanion 2 года назад

I agree, the kerf in the miter gauge fence is a handy reference for a short while. But it widens over time due to blade run-out, vibration, and the lash in the miter gauge slot. The saw tooth retains its accuracy as a reference.