I have never put 2 and 3 together to get that 5th one. Especially about cutting and starting in light. I have been doing that operation in the bag for so long that it is second nature. But now I can help those starting out. Thanks
It kinda is a science you know? It takes a bit of practice to nail it. I don’t nail it every time but I do get it on every roll thus far. So that’s good
When rolling two rolls of 120 try to use the backing paper tape from role one to connect to roll two, this will eliminate overlap. You can prolly find a video online if it
Adding a bit of time to compensate for the consumption of developing agent for each roll of film processed in reused developer is a great idea, but there is an implication here that doing this will allow you to develop many more rolls than you chemistry kit is rated to process. Once the active ingredients in a developer are used up, they are gone. You can't bring them back by extending process time. What you can bring back is uncorrectable color shifts in your image and out of control densities. Not here, but a lot of YT video guys say "The kit said it would do 12 rolls, but I did 30." Yeh, and they have crap to show for.it. With Photo-flo, if you have hard water and use it to wash your film, you may get water spots when dry. Tip: mix the Photo-flo bath with distilled or deionized water. No more spots. If you are going to cram 2 120 rolls on one 220 reel, be sure that the amount of developer you put in the tank is enough to process the extra roll. Many developer mixes (i.e.. Rodinal) do not. - Applies to B&W processing, not color negative.
Hey I appreciate the feedback, I made the video because these are what I have learned through several different kits and trial and error. All three points you mentioned are not of concern. Because 1: many of the kits tell you you can extend their life. I also observed first hand that for 32 rolls my unicolor kit did an awesome job, and I’m on roll 16 of the kit I developed in this video and it’s doing great. Colors look good, grain great, and I’m very happy with my images. You can check my IG to see images from my process. I think they are great! If I was developing my own higher end photos for weddings or what not, I prob would stick to the numbers listed on the kits, but idk, I prob wouldn’t want to take the risk. Havnt done a full 20 rolls at a wedding yet though. 2: yes mix your photo-flo with distilled water, I think I said that, if not then whoops. It just helps it sheet off and I havnt ever had a spot since using it. 3: the two rolls works well! Sometimes the first roll doesn’t like to go all the way on, I just bail on the second roll if it is being weird. But Iv done it several times. It is important to put all the chemicals in the bottle that’s for sure. I’m using a 500 ml tank and 1000 ml kit. So it is easy to eye ball wrong on filling the tank. I make sure to fill the tank up more than it seems like you would. Thanks for the feedback! Good deep questions people looking to dev would be interested in!
Re: Hack #4.... What I've been doing for years is that, when the first roll of 120 is nearly finished being put on the reel, I unravel the second roll of 120, carefully removing the tape at the end from the covering so that it remains on the film. Then, I tape the second roll of 120 to the end of the first roll of 120, and then continue winding the reel. If done properly, the second roll will be spun onto the reel, whereupon winding continues until the second roll of 120 is fully wound upon the reel.
Yeaahhh that’s a great tip! I havnt tried the tape method, I was worried about the adhesive messing up the chemicals or something. But it’s prob fine! That’s awesome!!
@@film_friends Doesn't affect the chemicals. At least none that I've seen. In fact, even if I'm doing just one roll of 120, I'll still keep the tape on, folding it over, and using that as the lead onto the spool as it seems to be easing to feed without any flimsy edge getting stuck.
I know I'm a few years after this video was posted, but I am wondering if, when rewindng my film, if I could just stop rewinding when I hear and feel the film release from the takeup spool (click, winder gets really easy), then open the camera back (shielded from any strong light) and remove the film and put in a dark canister. That way, I wouldn't have to retrieve the leader. All of the film that would be exposed at this time has already been exposed when loading the film, right? Just wondering. Thanks
Yeah, actually some cameras do that automatically for you which is cool. I had a few that did that. And you can do it. Usually you can count how many winds you do per shots and slow down when you get to 32 before 36. I like going all the way because it tells me that roll is done. If i leave the leader out and its in my bag, i could get it confused with a new roll
For the 2% rule, does that apply after you’ve developed the manufacturer’s recommended number of rolls or is that just a general rule. For example if that manufacturer recommends 8 rolls then on the 9th roll do you apply the 2% rule or do you just apply 2% to the total number of rolls used with that chemical mix?
That’s a good question. You can do it either way to go with what you feel haha I know that’s not a good answer. I would prob start it from the beginning, typically do. But what usually happens is I develop like 6-8 rolls on the new chemicals in 1 sitting and then when I pull them out again I use the rule. So like 6x 2% at that time. Because the chemicals have been sitting for weeks by that time
I literally just bought two new larger Paterson tanks because of all the 120 I was developing. Really wish I knew tip #4 a few weeks ago! Could have saved some cash
So are you allowed to use Photo-Flo for color negs? I keep reading articles where it is only used for b&w because if you use it on color negs you wash off the stabilizer which stops fungus and bacteria eating at your negatives years from now. Is this true?
Don’t know that info. Some people say add photo flo to the stabilizer. I would say it’s fine, I do it. We will see in 50 years how my negatives hold up haha my understanding is that more modern filmstocks have stabilizers built in them to last long
great video man! i was wondering, with photo flo, do you use that instead of a stabalizer? (my c41 liquid kit came with it and says to use that after rinsing for the 3 minutes) or should i use it after? just a bit confused lol
@@film_friends My C-41 stabilizer has this included, I'm pretty sure. So might be different for different brands. For b&w, I have to do it separately as well
People bitch about putting 120 film on a Patterson reel but it’s not that hard. I cut a piece of card stock (like a cereal box) the width of the film and about 3-4” long to use as a guide on the reel. Push the card stock right up to the film lock bearing then push the film lead over the top of the card stock. The card stock keeps the film flat and really help align the film on the reel.
I'm using the Cinestill C41 kit with photo flo (2 drops for 400ml of demineralised water) for the final rinse and I’m still getting water marks on my negatives. I’m agitating pretty rigorously and for 2 minutes, should this final rinse be less intensive?
You reaaaallly want to rinse with tap water for a good 3+ min and slosh it around and dump it out often. Really get it clean. Then pour in your photo flo and agitate a bit and whip it off of there with a shake. It should be perfect.
@@film_friends Quite the opposite. Hacks are generally taking a tool and deconstructing it or otherwise repurposing it for another purpose not intended by its original design.
Wow, I've been developing film for more than 60 years, and I've never heard of that 2% Rule about over-using your shot developer. Why is that? Because it is nonsense. How to destroy your negatives. As for loading two 120 rolls on one Paterson reel, it's physically possible, but Paterson reels are so poorly made and normally hard to load with 120 film, that you are likely to go crazy trying this one.
