Meh…disagree on nos. 1 and 5. To me, wearing a tie without the top button fastened always gives off the vibe of being a lush. Just take the tie off. And sneakers never look good with a suit. On anyone. Agree on the others. Just my opinion, everyone’s mileage varies.
Normally i've seen the tie with the top button unfasten when the shirt collar is too small for the neck of the person, so they can not fasten the button cause the size is not correct. with the pret a porter shirt is very common. Also in the south of europe is common to wear this way because the pressure of the collars maintains the tie at place. Best regards!
I would never wear trainers with a suit. As for no brown in town i agree it is outdated. I really like Burgundy oxfords, they will go with anything. Cheers Ron
I have always thought trainers / sneakers were a sad attempt at making running shoes "fancy". 🤷♂️ Myself i prefer boots over shoes. Of course polishable, the appropriate style & soles. More of an environment issue (unpredictable weather / terrain) and i broken my foot enough times that shoes just dont seem to sit right.
@@va6gkthaskey311 I love dress boots. I have a number of them some with brogeing. They polish up nice and look good and are very comfortable. I have Allen Edmonds and Florsheim.
The best advice I ever received from my tailor was never get a black suit, but rather a dark charcoal one. A black suit is only for wait-staff or funerals. My charcoal suit has served me very well.
Absolutely. Gray and navy shades / patterns are the only suits a well-dressed man wears. Black suits are for Lloyd Christmas and general managers at your local new car dealership.
Sorry, but the comment that a black suit is only for wait staff is stupid. Just as stupid as those people who say I do not want to wear a suit, it is for "greedy bankers". If you do not want to wear a black suit it should be for other reasons, not this snobbish one.
I'm reminded of the scene in which the Dowager Duchess Violet mistakes Lord Grantham for a waiter when he wears a a mismatched black ensemble for dinner.
I must say that wearing a tie without buttoning the top button nearly always gives the impression of carelessness, rather than sprezzatura. As for no. 5, sneakers should never be worn outside of the gym, most especially not with a suit. Even if it’s a white leather sneaker. However, it was an excellent choice to add background music to your videos!
Matching your complexion with the suit shirt tie, pocket square and socks is an area we can all add value with. Can you look into a video on the colour wheel with matching primary and secondary colours through the outfit. Great work.
Rule 4: yes, a black suit is not a necessity, but don't confuse that with a black tuxedo. A navy tuxedo breaks the uniformity and formality of a black tie event looking odd among others wearing the traditional black tux. If the event is a bit looser and playful (where velvet jackets are acceptable) then you're safe. But get a black tux before a navy tux.
Sneakers with a suit is a delicate form of art. Much can and will go wrong. In my opinion it works best with a cotton suit. And then there's the question of the right length and width of the trouser leg. Good luck!
I’ve noticed you don the classic button-down oxford (often this light blue) in many of your videos. This is by far my favorite fabric and style of shirt for informal but elegant menswear due to its versatility, comfort and durability. You wear them well, giving me ideas and new inspiration on how to make this solid standard look fantastic!
Personally I always wear brown in town. I have 1 pair of black Oxford dress shoes and 1 pair of black wingtip boots that I rarely wear. The rest of my shoes/boots are brown/oxblood. In my opinion, oxblood dress shoes just look elegant with a nice charcoal or navy suit.
With brown shoes I match the darkness of the pants. Light brown shoes is fine with light beige pants but a grey/navy/dark brown pants deserve more of a medium to dark brown.
It's that sort of attitude that has led to a world of slobs, and sociopa thic wearing of jeans in hotels!! A civilised society would have breaking dress rules a criminal offence!!
New subscriber. Great video and information. I'm glad to have learned that you don't necessarily have to wear a black suit to a funeral that a dark navy blue or charcoal will work just fine.
An exception to Rule 4: I work for a government regulatory agency and routinely meet members of the public, so a closet full of identical black suits is pretty much a job requirement. On the whole, though, these guidelines are pretty solid. I don't think I could personally bring off the sneakers-and-suit combo, as it seems too hipsterish for me, but that doesn't mean someone who _can_ make it look good shouldn't do it.
@@danelisslow3269 No one's complained about us doing so... Jokes aside, while it would be really, really cool to have department-issue neuralizers, that would probably be a little counterproductive for our outfit. My group's mandate is consumer protection - specifically, we regulate state-registered investment advisors, financial planners, hedge fund managers, and so on - but one of our big challenges is to let the public know that we exist in the first place, and that help is available if they think their finance guy is pulling a fast one on them.
I’m going to disagree with you by agreeing with you. Where you said if anyone can make suits and sneakers look good they should do it. In my opinion, no one can make it look good. So no one should. It’s less hideous on the young, but that’s not an excuse! Ah, well. I’m old and grumpy. Not THAT old. But I make up for it by being extra grumpy… [shuffles off stage left, muttering about “kids these days….”]
Rather than the undone top button with a tie, I will wear a dress shirt and dark gray wool jacket without a tie, and with the top button undone, if I want a "dress casual" look. In some circumstances, one can even wear jeans with this ensemble. Dress casual shoes are the thing here as well.
I just found your channel and I love it! It's so interesting, and you present it brilliantly! I'm by no means a stylish sort. But as I grow older, I find that I have a passion for the highest quality items I can afford. I want to invest in items that will last and will provide me with the most satisfaction and enjoyment as possible. From heritage boots and the best quality merino wool socks, to great looking, high quality flat caps, to very high quality, but reasonable EDC type items (I qualify this category with 'reasonable', because there really is no ceiling for these items). Thank you for your content I'm really enjoying you insights.
I agree with points 2, 3 and 4 but not 1 or 5. An unbuttoned collar just can't look elegant or classy, imo, and sneakers never look ok with a suit. Each to their own, of course!
Here is a rule to NEVER break - don't wear a leisure suit or safari jacket with epaulettes! As for undoing the top button, I think that is okay if you are working late, or have taken off your jacket and rolled up your leaves, or it is just damn hot.
I disagree with 4, black suits are great and versitale, not to mention patterned ones, like pinstripe. The only thing I think is wrong is most people wear a shiny (also often polyester), smooth, evening-type suit. Those often look cheap, and even the better ones look distracting in direct sunlight. A matte fabric, like linen, cotton canvas, twill or wool flannel look great and manage to stand out among others while still being elegant and simple.
Wear what you like but no, you are lying to yourself, black is the least versatile suit there is, its very stern, harsh, and unforgiving, thus the most formal of all.
I do not wear brown formal shoes.... I also sometimes wear my black Reebok with a casual dress suit... of course I own my business and we have casual dress rule except if we have business guests in the building then I and top executives are asked to dress formally. ps I am a very muscular person and all my formal suits are custom and I do not like very tight clothes. thanks for your thoughts on dress and etiquette I went to graduate school in England so I forget sometimes about rules in the "old country"...
Good video for sure! I totally agree with Number 1 and 3. #2 „No brown in town“ is certainly outdated and should not be applied to shoes but to suits. In most cases, a brown suit simply looks boring. But brown shoes with blue suits can be very elegant. I kindly disagree with #4, but maybe that's because I like the Film noir genre. There is no man on Earth that wouldn't look better wearing a black suit. It helps to not fully dress up with a black tie. A clean white shirt with the upper button undone does the job. Not too formal, but still a statement. You probably need only one of black suit in your closet, but one for sure. As much as I like some stylish blue suits, black can hardly be beaten after 6 pm. Your thoughts on #5 are interesting, because I despise any combination of suits and sneakers. But I get your point on wearing perfectly white sneakers to a casual suit on a casual occasion. Good one!
From Frank Sinatra - "For me, a tuxedo is a way of life. When an invitation says black tie optional, it is always safer to wear black tie. My basic rules are to have shirt cuffs extended half an inch from the jacket sleeve. Trousers should break just above the shoe. Try not to sit down because it wrinkles the pants. If you have to sit, don't cross your legs. Pocket handkerchiefs are optional, but I always wear one, usually orange, since orange is my favorite color. Shine your Mary Janes on the underside of a couch cushion." THE RULES 1. It takes two hands to put on a hat the right way: Back brim curled up, front tugged down to a couple of inches above the right brow. 2. Never wear brown at night. Never. 3. There's no excuse for brown shoes past sundown.... Or white shoes. Or anything gray, unless it's deep charcoal. Or blue, unless it's midnight blue. In fact, let's keep it simple: after dark, men should wear black. 4. Ties should be silk. And conservative. 5. Cuff links always. But leave the fancy jewelry to Sammy. 6. When dressing formally, a vest is better than a cummerbund. 7. Don't wear a tuxedo on Sunday. 8. Having messy closets is like putting on clean clothes over dirty underwear. 9. The shower is a great place to steam out the wrinkles in your dinner jacket. 10. Orange is the happiest color. 11. Don't hide your scars. They make you who you are. 12. When it comes to pockets, everything should have its own place. 13. A pocket handkerchief is essential, but it needs to be perfectly folded. 14. Shine your shoes. 15. Trim. Buff. Clean. 16. Take your hand off the suit, creep.
Although I've never liked the look of sneakers with a suit, I will often wear a pair of minimal sneakers with a sportcoat, Oxford button-down, and denim if I'm being more casual. Nice video!
I've noticed a lot of stylish men mixing patterned fabrics. A checked shirt or jacket with a graphical tie and another pattern on the pocket square. That used to be taboo. How would you approach this trend?
I very much appreciate your channel. A comment: Would a gentleman lead his video with "F**K THIS?" I think it's rather a cheap way to attract viewers. A gentleman is never cheap, I think. Perhaps "WHAT???" or some other title. Perhaps a simple: "Yes, 5 Rules to Break."
@@Fab3rg3 Some people like to dress smart. That's the style i personally like. everyone has different tastes. i like to be slightly overdressed. becuase its inpoartnt to look presentebel, in a world most pepole wear sweatpants and hoodies 24/7
I can agree with about 99 percent of what you are saying about "breaking the rule" However where I must disagree is on the matter of owning a black suit and it's definitely not for funerals only, you clearly missed the mark on that one, a black suit first give versatility to your established wardrobe for example if you want to be suited and booted, but do not want to wear a necktie on a night on the town, a black suit contrasted with a white dress wins hands down every time on a evening dinner date at a concert a black suit is a no fuss no mush choice it's simple!
Whatever is best for Love Almighty is always the best thing to wear. We want to prudently provoke others to their best love and good works in all things. We like to give proper Honors and Respects to everyone and everything !!
How do you feel about dress shorts and a sports coat? I wear that kind of outfit two to three times a week in social and even business settings. (I do have the freedom to be bolder than most) I love finding a great combo of the two but do admit to a weakness for wearing loud shirts with it rather than a solid colour. However, I love the challenge and the look.
In the TV show Arrow Oliver Queen never buttoned the top button when wearing a tie and I always thought it was a cool "signature move" for a character with an otherwise basic style (and appropriate that a guy who's constantly fighting and doing parkour would want a little extra breathing room).
Rule #5: some 15 years ago, one of my best friends daughter was getting married in an outdoor evening setting. The groom and groomsmen wore formal black tuxedo type suits but. . . with black Converse canvas sneakers. I guess that the sneakers were mementos that had practicality beyond the wedding itself.
I totally agree that tie,pocket squares and waistcoats should never match perfectly, that shows you went to Walmart and purchased the first thing you saw instead of using fore thought, similar colors can work but only with different patterns or no patterns
When you go to a black tie affaire you should wear a black tuxedo. When I attend a black tie affaire I untie my tie late in the evening and leave hanging around my neck. It gives the 50s Rat Pack look. This only works if you a real tie. NO SNEAKERS WITH SUITS.
Wearing a tie with the top button undone always gives the impression that the shirt is too tight and you have gained weight. And secondly, it evokes the impression, that you're not used to wearing a tie at all and have only made the effort for that particular occasion. And why should I wear sports shoes ("Sneakers") while wearing a suit, i. e. when I'm not doing any sports at all?
@@christianvennemann9008 I do neither, in fact I don't own sneakersanymore. I either go for a walk, dressed as I always dress, or do some exercise at home with bare feet.
Minimalist sneakers (my Oliver Cabells) look fantastic with a golf polo and shorts. My gosh, you guys come off so pretentious saying you would never wear a sneaker. I agree with a suit, but they are great with shorts.
A few years ago I would agree with you 100%. But I was at a formal event and I brought my teenage son with. He didn't want to wear a suit, I explained the nature of it etc etc. In the end he wore a navy suit, white shirt and all white leather sneakers and looked great. Many family members talk about how great he looked even better than me. And I wore mine with tie and black shoes. Lol. He was able to comfortably wear it, and he never took off the jacket. And plus I would say if you're flying and wearing a suit, wearing it with a simple white shirt and sneakers is easy and stylish
Sorry, another intervention as I am moving further into the video. The dark blue tux was pioneered by the Duke of Windsor, if I remember correctly, who noticed that it looks darker than black in the evening, like a crow's feather, and is thus a more elegant choice. It is one which also differentiates one from the serving staff when the occasion is formal enough for the staff to be dressed up. On the sneakers point... I would probably avoid this with a full suit. One really needs to be both young and, particularly so, physically very fit to pull it off. (I am now not in the age category to do so successfully.) A close alternative which is more age-friendly (again, for the warmer, sunnier time of year), would be pairing these same clean, white sneakers with white pants and a blazer (grey, blue, light blue, olive green). This would still achieve a clean, smart-casual look, and is much more accessible to someone who is older and/ or is shaped less fortunately than Michelangelo's David.
Shoe colour may also depend on geography. In very warm countries, where light-coloured suits would be more frequently seen, black shoes can be a mistake, unless the occasion is particularly formal and, usually, an evening affair. (Having said that, never go for light brown either, nor for odd colours). Light-coloured suits which should be preferable in the summer (light to medium grey, moderate beige, olive, if you can pull it off, and medium-blues) fit exceptionally well with dark brown or even wine brown shoes. On a summer day in a southern country I would generally only pair black shoes with a light grey suit, and usually for a more than casual occasion, like a business meeting; I would also wear a three-piece suit on this occasion. A particularly good point, and rare for people of your generation, is the tie-pocket handkerchief rule. The latter is one of the few occasions where a man can show a playful side to his attire, and is one of the very few ways for a man to make a statement of character and mood. (The other ones are socks, watch, and jewellery.) The two items should not match, ever. They can be relevant to each other, but could also be only remotely linked. The pocket handkerchief is probably the only item in a man's wardrobe, which can (and should) be liberated from most conventions.
Gent Z, what is your opinion on the no level angles across the body "rule". With the exception of a belt, the idea was that tie bars or watch chains should cross the body with some angle, not level flat. I think swords were the original example of this guideline.
Could u give some tips on how to wear classic in a really, really, really hot weather on a daily case? (I'm from Brazil and there are days that a simple shirt or pants at all seem impossible to use from how hot it is)
What about when to wear a shirt with a spread collar vrs a button down collar. I never wear a suit with the more sporty button down shirt and tie. A button down should be worn with a sweater or a sports jacket, not with a suit.
If my jacket resembles American military uniforms of old, I'll wear the tie tucked into the shirt or no tie at all. And my bar tools and bottles will look like bar tools and bottles rather than neatly placed stage props.
Day to day at work. Tie, top button undone and a waistcoat. Nothing but compliments. I’m 55 and old enough to know what suits me. For more high end social engagements, top button done up. Same result.
So instead of breaking a rule, you’ve made a rule that your tie and pocket square shouldn’t match. Therefore, to break the rule your tie and pocket square should match. Hmmm…
Hmmm…top button undone, I’m inclined to say “lose the tie.” But, st the end of the day, or after hours impromptu gatherings, I think the loosened tie and top button undone looks fine. A scheduled meeting…suggest against unless all parties are already familiar and of a similar mind. Brown shoes: they are my favorite. But, I only wear very dark brown leather shoes (not light brown or tan). Any denim or tan, green or brown trousers…brown footwear. Charcoal or blue trousers…black shoes. Which leads me to black suit. I’ve not owned one as an adult, except for my tuxedo. Dark green (and I mean very dark) is my best color. Charcoal gray is my second choice. I once had a brown suit that may have been the only acceptable shade of brown for a suit. I had bright red hair as a young man. It’s thinned to nothing on top and dark on the fringe. Influences my color selection a bit. Anyway, I don’t wear black, except for my tux. And for the pocket square matching the tie, I’ve seen some attractive matching sets. The blue and white polka dots in the video was not a pairing I’d suggest. I think solids match better. But better still is a lively pocket square picking up colors from the tie. I like paisley patterns. Not bold but subtle low contrast patterns. And for the low key look, a white or pale pastel is a good choice. Runners with a suit? I’d say never. Anyone who wears sneakers with a suit may as well wear a track suit instead. Does it look youthful? Yes. But 12 year olds shouldn’t be setting fashion trends. I’ll leave it that lest I sound more like a grumpy old man than normal. Good list. Thank you for the effort you put into bringing classical style to a younger generation.
I would not risk undoing the top button when wearing a necktie. The way to go is make sure it is not too tight restricting blood flow to the brain. I used take off the button a resew it so the collar is not too tight at all. Just move the button over. a bit.
Respectfully disagree with #s 1 & 5. Button the button or remove the tie, and sneakers are an absolute "no" with a suit at all times. I'm aware these are both stylistic choices, but I really hate seeing both. #3 is 👌🏻👌🏻
Agree with all suggestions. Not crazy about no. 1; and sneakers with a suit? I get the exceptions but there are other shoes that can be worn with a suit to add to one's flair. Sneakers make a guy look like PeeWee Herman.
That outfit wouldn't work in theory, the casuality of the safary jacket with the formality of the tie, but then it looks really cool! 😎 Colour pallet also cool.
His outfit does work for three reasons. First of all the type of tie is a knit tie and there is no tie clasp, pin or bar. Third, his shirt is a button down collar, which is a casual type. (True, they are worn with suits but it is still a notch down in formality.) There are a lot of differences in ties. I suggest you read up on them, because it's interesting to know.
Yes it does work.Francois Truffault that icon of cool in the 1960s and 1970s often wore a safari jacket with a tie.his final appearance in "Close Encounters of the Third Kind by Speiberg shows him wearing a safari jacket as I remember well.I could be mistaken.@@peaceonearth8693
Yeah, rule 2 is completely outdated. I use my brown boots from mid spring to mid fall. Basically once the snow lands, the brown boots disappear. (Partially because they have a slick sole).
I agree with your rule breakers but in my personal experience, the undone button shirt usually looks the worst among the rule breakers. However as I only wear bow ties now (going on 20 years), when I undo my bow tie and top button, I get frequent comments about how "James bond-ish" I look (in a good, cool way)
The 'never brown in town' rule only ever made sense if you were some lower tier British nobleman wearing brown brogues while out chasing defenseless animals on horseback in the afternoon and were too clueless to change out of your muddy outfit into something more formal for the evening. If you are anyone else, just wear shoes that go with the rest of your outfit. An in-between choice between black and brown would be some sort of chili or cordovan color whole-cut oxford. As to a black suit, you definitely should have one if you drive a third-hand luxury car for hire as a side gig and pick people up at the airport using a sign with their names misspelled and written in crayon. Be sure the suit doesn't fit properly.
Sorry mate but I'm not keen on the jacket. The back part of the tie should always be either tucked into the loop or inside the shirt. Never undo the top botton when wearing a tie unless you're done for the day. After six decades of working on my personal style I've worked out to stick with the classic look (think Cary Grant). It never goes out of fashion unlike 99% of what guys today get around in yet think they're "cool". They'll look back at photos of themselves in 20 years time and be horrified. You're on the right path but just don't be too proud to accept advice from those of us who have been around a bit longer and seen a whole lot more.
I can see 2, 3 and 4 which I have always ignored anyway, but not 1 and 5. An unbuttoned top button makes you look like you did not finish getting dressed. Mixing a formal garment (suit) with a casual footwear (sneaker) is a mismatch and just looks odd.
Rule Number 3 -- Absolutely. It was never a rule, it was a ridiculous marketing push. When I see Matching ties and pocket squares, I know this is someone who does not understand style.
Safari jacket, I believe he mentioned in another video, that it is available at Hockerty's online store. But you may probably find similar on Amazon or ebay... Or Poshmark.
When there are epaulets or straps on the shoulder, this is a mark of military (or by extension safari) heritage. While field jackets are hunting apparel, and they have plain shoulders.
What I understand, and you apparently don’t, is that Bryan Ferry looks good in whatever he wears; and for me (and you) it doesn’t matter what I (or you) wear (or how or when I - you- wear it), I (you) will always look like flip.
I don’t get how the refrigerator makes an appropriate backdrop to these well intentioned but always slightly pompous videos. Can’t he sit in his front room?
On the show suits, the suave protagonist Harvey Specter always wears black shoes with his dark suits. Louis Litt, the petty bully wears brown shoes with his dark suits. Pro tip: You want to look like Harvey, not Louis. Don't wear brown shoes with a navy suit. At best it looks off, at worst it makes you look like a yokel.
