5 of 5: Alcove Unit

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Hi everyone. In this weeks set of videos I’m making an alcove unit. This is generally a cabinet with a bookcase above it that sits alongside the chimney breast in the Victorian-era houses you typically find in industrialised cities throughout the UK.
They’re not difficult to do and well within the capabilities of most DIYers, though there are a few things that you need to be aware of. This video shows you how I do mine. Enjoy!
This is Part 5 of 5
Part 1 is here - • 1 of 5: Alcove Unit #094
Part 2 here - • 2 of 5: Alcove Unit #095
Part 3 here - • 3 of 5: Alcove Unit #096
Part 4 here - • 4 of 5: Alcove Unit #097
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Used/featured in this video:-
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
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Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool Kapex 120 - amzn.to/2oYOXeq (US: amzn.to/2o7D3zL)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
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Fevstool CTL Sys - amzn.to/2sKa2t3 (US: amzn.to/2tCvVdZ)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Blum hinges - amzn.to/2oOiiYG (US: amzn.to/2oOodgt)
Hinge drilling guide - amzn.to/2oYBHqk
Self-centering drill bit - amzn.to/2pVQ6kl (US: amzn.to/2oZ7Fmq)
Hinge boring bit - amzn.to/2pSrlXa (US: amzn.to/2pSHJGV)
Heavy duty groover - goo.gl/Ht1TU4
Arcbor for above - goo.gl/xdE9PU
Maestri electric nailer - amzn.to/2pNm7ye (US: amzn.to/2pGMfuf)
Bradawl - amzn.to/2qWTbln (US: amzn.to/2pZqVRm)
Japanese folding pocket saw - goo.gl/DlcyPw
Spax MDF screws - amzn.to/2pj5FX5 (US: amzn.to/2oOh7Zu)
Tongue-tite screws - amzn.to/2ouKU5I (US: amzn.to/2pGBVk3)
Lost-tite screws - amzn.to/2pGnUFD (US: amzn.to/2pVKqa6)
Ryobi Air Strike stapler - [currently unavailable in UK, link is to a personal import from the US through eBay, which is how I bought mine] goo.gl/aIGo8O (US: amzn.to/2qylU2O)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2svT03N (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Cheap sash clamp - amzn.to/2sTl7eq (US:amzn.to/2sVGKtV)
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Main camera Panasonic Lumix G80 - amzn.to/2o7uPrx (US - G85: amzn.to/2ouTwJV)
Olympus 12-40 f/2.8 - amzn.to/2sz34Xy (US: amzn.to/2sbYkte)
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26 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 113

@karlpountney 7 лет назад

Peter a great project series. What I like about these projects is they show the realities of working with a client and you include the installation. And you don't shy away from sharing the installation challenges. Other project videos tend to show the finished project only as it leaves the workshop. Look forward to the next.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thanks Karl!👍

@ksp1278 7 лет назад

Karl Pountney I agree. The customer installation is my favourite part.

@SEPTICWOUNDS Год назад

Absolutely agree 👍

@plasticcream 3 года назад

What a lovley job First Class many thanks for the video

@10MinuteWorkshop 3 года назад

Thank you! 👍

@TheMTLawrence Год назад

Thanks for this series on building an alcove unit, Peter - super helpful…

@bartlemy Год назад

Thank you for the valuable knowledge. You've inspired me to take up carpentry

@martinkenny9384 3 года назад

Lovely piece of work

@10MinuteWorkshop 3 года назад

Thanks! 👍

@philipperoue3760 7 лет назад

Hello Peter Each time it's the same pleasure for me to see you working on your project. Very clean and british touch alcove. There were nothing on french TV so I appreciated a lot watching 5 videos of you. I didn't catch all your words because you speak to fast for me but for learning english with a subject I like very much, I say thank you to show your Work.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thank you! I'll try to speak more slowly and clearly in future! 👍

@olrenison 5 лет назад

Great series of videos Peter. Really interesting to see your approach. It would be good to hear how you approach the design of your cabinets with a view to different fitting scenarios. For example, how much smaller than the alcove to make the cabinet. Alcoves with a long wall one side, short the other. Carrying an existing picture rail through and designing with that in mind. Things like that. I've found that videos discussing how to approach differing scenarios in order to get a neat and finished look in how you go about designing are thin on the ground. Plenty showing things being fitted, but few on the build up and why things are done a certain way. Great videos cheers! 👍

@Cradley684 6 лет назад

Cracking job Peter on all 5 video's

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Thank you! 👍

@stevewalker7822 7 лет назад

I've enjoyed this series and greatly appreciate your professionalism and craftsmanship!

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+steve walker Thank you! 👍

@tc9148 3 года назад

Excellent tutorial on fitting custom cabinetry into an enclosed space. It’s not easy or self-evident how to do it even though Peter makes it look easy.

@10MinuteWorkshop 3 года назад

Glad it was helpful!👍

@kookyflukes9749 7 лет назад

Looks great. Thanks for taking us through the process Peter. Keep them coming.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thanks! 👍

@duncanhurst2888 7 лет назад

Another great series of videos Peter. As always extremely interesting watching you deal with all the 'less than perfect' elements.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+Duncan Hurst Thanks! 😬

@ratchriat1716 6 лет назад

the finish looks fab enjoy the video.

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Thanks! Not bad for a roller 👍👍😂😂

@kokonokov 3 года назад

Great series. Was very interesting.

@neilyeag 7 лет назад

Really professional job all the way around!

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+neilyeag Thanks! A bit more to come on this one though... 😯👍

@anthonyhale4865 7 лет назад

Peter very stylish unit , enjoyed the series. No doubt the client was delighted ( when paying up )

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thank you. And, 'up to a point' on the second comment - more to come on that... 😬

@silverfox8801 7 лет назад

Peter Millard intrigued??🤔😏

@kookyflukes9749 7 лет назад

Peter Millard some people huh!....

@johnoleary9317 5 лет назад

Wonderful series and narration. Sir Thank you.

@mikes6844 7 лет назад

Great finished product, I've done a few now (none professional) it is amazing what different people (family) want. The one I'm most pleased with was for my son - housing his hi-fi. I took the opportunity to make the base as deep/high as the skirting boards. This allowed me to house the mains leads in the base area, suppling all the hi-fi seperates together with his home wi-fi/router etc. The top extended out at the font slighty over the chimney breast. No alcove top shelves though . Learning a lot from these - so neat and tidy love the customer installation segments.. R Mike

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thanks Mike! 👍

@livingladolcevita7318 3 года назад

thanks for this Peter, just picked up on your vlog, hoping to do something similar with my alcoves

@10MinuteWorkshop 3 года назад

Thanks! 👍

@livingladolcevita7318 3 года назад

now to buy all the tools, hope my bank balance will stand it lol

@roberthatcher2773 6 лет назад

Great work!

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Thanks Robert! 👍👍

@GeeTheBuilder 6 лет назад

That’s a really nice alcove unit. I love your attention to detail. “6mm” :) Fits really nicely in that room. And those doors closed perfectly 👏

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Thanks Graham 👍

@dustyhush 7 лет назад

love spax screws, nice work

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+pieter dautzenberg Thanks! 👍🍻

@SBTDesigndotcodotuk 7 лет назад

Looks great! 👍

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+Steve_SBT Thanks Steve! BTW I've shot an email across to my spark re your electrics question but he hasn't got back to me yet, might be on hols. I will get an answer though and post back here or on twitter 👍

@davidhaydon4720 4 года назад

Hi Peter, regarding your 6mm face frames, am I right in thinking these protrude out past the sides of the bookshelf? They look flush at the top but when you pin the bottom you can clearly see your fingers disappear behind the face frame to hold it in place. I hope I've explained that well enough. Thanks.

@10MinuteWorkshop 4 года назад

In this build yes they do. You can keep the inside edge of the face frame flush with the carcass side if you like, but you’ll reduce the usable width by the width of the face-frame in each side, obviously. 👍👍

@jessemackin6875 6 лет назад

Hi peter. Just trawled through the comments before repeating anything. You mentioned that the face frames were not scribed because it was the cheaper option and the wall was straight. Wouldn't the shelves and unit look out of sqaure with the face frame? If money wasn't an issue, what would have been the alternative method to hide the gaps round shelves and sides of units. Thanks for all your time and effort with the vids 👍

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Hi Jesse. What I’ve found is that if the walls are reasonably plumb but perhaps curving slightly, then having the face-frame following the curve in the wall doesn’t look at all out of place. If there’s time & budget, then scribing them in is best. 👍👍

@wolfgollnitz899 7 лет назад

Very professional. Nicely finished product, AGAIN!!! And just by the way, walls are never plumb, it's just the variance in how much out of plumb they are.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thanks - and yes, that's very true! 👍

@Toshiro7777 7 лет назад

Anorher great series that I really enjoyed. Id love to know more about controlling shelf sag in mdf shelves. You have a huge amount of experience and it would be great if you could share. Maybe in one of you 2 minute videos?

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+Toshiro7777 Thanks! Re. shelf sag, there's a calculator called the "sagulator" which is very useful - don't have a link to hand but it'll come up if you google it. Switching from 18mm to 22mm makes a huge difference, lipping the front edges makes a difference too. But sure, it might make a quick vid - I'll see if I can fit one in 👍

@Toshiro7777 7 лет назад

Peter Millard Thanks! I have found the Saugulator!

@webchimp 6 лет назад

Peter Millard Did you put a hole in the shelf in the bottom cupboard to get the power cables up from the bottom to where the TV will be? I know you put one in the top of the cupboard.

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Not generally; the shelf is made about 25mm shallower than the cabinet depth, so it can easily be pulled forwards for cable but if someone expects to plus and unplug things repeatedly, then I recommend either a cut-out in the shelf or a corresponding hole 👍👍

@dap2112 6 лет назад

top job mate looks like my house lol

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Thanks! 👍

@dkuppens5357 7 лет назад

Hello Peter, very nice result. I really like your attention to detail. Can you please share how many working hours you have put into this build?

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

It's about a 3-day build overall, and a half-day to fit, so somewhere around ~30 hrs total. HTH Peter 👍

@timclarke8694 5 лет назад

Hi Peter. You mentioned when fitting the cabinet top about the slightly curved inner corners of the alcove and having to scribe appropriately. How did you handle this problem on the top shelving piece? Do you make it 10-15mm short of full depth? Just about to start my own top sections and not sure on the approach!

@10MinuteWorkshop 5 лет назад

You can either scribe infills to cover the gaps between the bookcase and the wall, or just scribe a thin top to cover everything - the upper face-frame covers the edge. 👍👍

@michaelburton9638 5 лет назад

hi Peter, nice work. do you find that the holes for the shelf pegs clog up with paint and have to be cleared out so the little spade pins can fit in? Or do you have a way to stop that from happening?

@10MinuteWorkshop 5 лет назад

Thanks Micheal! I’ve had this question a few times recently, and I have to say it’s a little bit difficult to answer, as I’ve never had a problem. I’m mostly spraying now, so the paint’s being applied thinly, but even when I was using a rolller it wasn’t an issue with the paints I was using - water-based acrylic, usually. The shelf pins were sometimes a little tight, but I never needed to force them in. Not sure if that helps or not! Cheers, Peter.

@michaelburton9638 5 лет назад

thanks @@10MinuteWorkshop I'll try being less liberal with the paint next time!

@209porker 7 лет назад

Hi Peter, a couple of questions - did you scribe the side pieces or are they a fixed width? And do you leave the shelves a few mm shorter than the internal width so they can slot in at an angle when the face frame is fitted? I find I usually undercut them so they will pivot in but maybe I should just cut them a bit shorter. Nice job BTW. Very tidy.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thanks! Ther're fixed width on this job - the walls were recently plastered so, even though they weren't plumb, they were pretty straight. As I think I mention in the video, the thin face-frames have enough flex in them to follow the slight undulation of the wall. And yes, with the shelf-pins I use, the shelves need to be cut ~3mm shorter than the internal width to settle properly, which is usually enough for them to slot in at an angle. 👍

@Just_DanYT 3 года назад

Hi Peter, I've been tasked this project from my partner and mother-in-law! Your video and way of succinctly and professionally explaining the process is the best i've found on RU-vid for the project, so thank you! I have 2 questions if you don't mind... 1. Which joint would you recommend - biscuit or dowel? I would love the domino but not quite ready for that yet! 2. When fixing this cabinet to the floor, we have recently had carpet fitted so I don't want to be cutting a huge section out to expose the concrete below! What would you do in this scenario - I trust your judgement! Thank you if you take the time to reply to this. Again, super video and I'm looking forward to cracking on with the project thanks to you! Subscription from me!

@10MinuteWorkshop 3 года назад

Hi Dan, thanks - and welcome! If you have a biscuit jointer then it will probably be easier than using dowels, but if all,you have is a dowel jig then that’ll work fine. I used dowels and a £15 jig to build part of my lightweight trestles - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bvZkRE6rCEs.html - and they worked just as well as the Dominos I used in the other side, just about £700 cheaper! As for fixing tone floor, I show the process in the ‘last install’ videos (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B9qHsXC9MAQ.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AG3oOpEQkpk.html) but basically I screw a small,MDF or plywood square down through the carpet into the floorboard so it compresses the carpet and underlay, then fix onto that as shown here. Works a treat, and doesn’t cause any lasting damage to the carpet. 👍👍

@TheHairyKarl 4 года назад

Hi Peter, if you don’t have a domino cutter could you use just hole and doweling? Or is it just not strong enough? Thanks for the vids.

@10MinuteWorkshop 4 года назад

Yes, dowels would absolutely be strong enough. Slower use of course, but no question they’d make a strong joint. 👍👍

@TheHairyKarl 4 года назад

Peter Millard thanks Peter! 👍🏻 love your content, appreciate your time

@normanroberts9914 7 лет назад

Hi Peter really like your channel, I was just wondering which domino do you use the 500 or 700 cheers Norman

@mikes6844 7 лет назад

just one request - I could do with help when scribing - you guys make it so easy :-)

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Haha - no actual scribing on this one. The walls have been recently plastered, so although they're not plumb, they were pretty flat. The thin face-frame has enough flex in it to push it into shape. 👍

@5656eric 7 лет назад

Agree with the comment about installation challenges: very very interesting. Nice piece of furniture Peter. By the way for an alcove unit do you think it is better to close the empty space above the unit (like if the unit was built in the wall)? Thanks for sharing (I think you'll celebrate yr 10K subscribers very very soon ;-)). Eric.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Thanks! No, I almost never fill the space above the unit; if they run all the way up to the ceiling they usually look out of proportion in the room (unless the room has a cornice/moulding, then you can continue that around the shelves) and this way it allows the top of the shelf unit to be used for - plants, speakers, kids art, whatever the customer has. And yes, I may well get to 10k subscribers by my 10-month anniversary (Monday at noon). We'll see - nothing I can do about it now... 😆👍

@5656eric 7 лет назад

Thanks for the advice Peter. Pffff monday noon you'll be on your way to 20K. Snowball effect you know ... Well deserved !

@donaldguilbault7433 7 лет назад

Hi Peter, let me preface this comment by saying I love watching your channel, but wanted to know why you opted to simply pin the face frame so it tapered with the out-of-plumb chimney and wall rather than scribing it so the reveal inside the cabinet didn't highlight the condition? It is my experience that a slightly tapered face frame hides the problem better than having an unequal reveal.

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Hi and thanks! Short answer - it was the (cheaper) option that was chosen; you're absolutely right that a look inside the reveal of the cabinet would show this, but in my experience almost nobody does! And yes, the irony of going back at my expense to fit the twiddly bits is not lost on me 😂

@adamdeacon4819 5 лет назад

Hi peter, top job. What do you use for the face frames?

@10MinuteWorkshop 5 лет назад

Thanks! It’s all MR MDF 👍

@adamdeacon4819 5 лет назад

Peter Millard what thickness 6mm?

@10MinuteWorkshop 5 лет назад

Adam Deacon Either 6mm or 12mm. Can’t remember on this one tbh, I may be repressing the memory as it’s one I had to go back to 😱😬👍

@adamdeacon4819 5 лет назад

Peter Millard cheers peter!

@hollyjenkins1229 5 лет назад

Hi Peter, really enjoyed watching this series. Just wondered how much these units cost?

@10MinuteWorkshop 5 лет назад

Hi Holly & thanks! Each one is different, but typically they’re in the £1200 - £1600 range for something like this, designed, fabricated, painted, delivered & installed. 👍

@ventilara 6 лет назад

Hi Peter, I am building some alcove shelving units and the internal width is 1256mm by 350mm deep. I am using 22mm MR MDF lipped with 22mm square softwood, do you think the span is too wide? thanks John

@10MinuteWorkshop 6 лет назад

Hiya. I’d be inclined to make the lipping deeper at that span. If you do a search for ‘the sagulator’ you’ll find a calculator that shows the relative sag of various timbers, for each span. Very handy 👍

@LondonStuff. Год назад

Any sagging with adjustable shelves?

@10MinuteWorkshop Год назад

Nope, not on my shelves. 👍

@Mrfreezeee1 7 лет назад

Looks great Peter , when are you going to make one with a biscuit joiner like we do on the other side of the pond

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

I'll have to buy a biscuit jointer first... 🤔

@donaldguilbault7433 7 лет назад

I am on the other side of the pond and I use either the Festool Domino or a Kreg pocket hole machine. I think that biscuits are too sloppy and offer no structural support.

@normanboyes4983 7 лет назад

Great mini series on the alcove unit. Not familiar with face frame have you got a link?

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+Norman Boyes Thanks. Not really - if you just Google 'face frame' there'll be a wikipedia link that pops up after all the spectacle adverts 😄

@awayinwonderland3177 7 лет назад

Hi Peter, I'm a big fan of your channel! Quick question, have you posted a video on how you price your work at all? It would be really helpful for those of us that haven't done many paying projects with random clients (I've done a lot for friends or existing customers). It's very difficult to know how much to price jobs for without being too cheap. Thanks, Alex

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+AwayinWonderland Hi & thanks! No, I haven't. TBH I tend to stay away from pricing as a/it's so hard and b/ so variable WRT regions/geography etc... If it helps I have 'ball-park' prices on my commercial website (petermillard.com) in the photo gallery. The question's come up a couple of times though, so it's on my radar to take a look at it again 👍 🍻

@awayinwonderland3177 7 лет назад

Peter Millard Thanks for the quick reply, and I get where you're coming from. Prices/rates in London vary from prices in Devon etc etc and of course internationally too. Perhaps if you don't want to get too specific in a future video (if you decide to) then maybe provide more of a system/ method to how you price (hourly/ piece rate etc). I will have a look on your site and thank you again for the reply! P.s I love the Festool vs Cheaptool series!

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+AwayinWonderland Thanks! Yes, I'm trying to figure out a 'building block' system for pricing, but TBH the best thing I ever did was to go with a 'price for the job' approach e.g. a double wardrobe is £x, top box is £y, drawers are £z. What those XYZ figures are is up to you, of course...

@awayinwonderland3177 7 лет назад

Peter Millard I appreciate the advice and will look out for a video ;) The website is great by the way - some far more advanced stuff than what you have shown on YT, I imagine you'll film the bigger jobs when they come about? Thanks again, Alex

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+AwayinWonderland Thanks - and yes, I just do whatever comes along 😀

@mickskey1976 4 года назад

Hey Peter, I noticed your nailer for the trim. Is it a lost head 23 guage? I can't seem to find any electric 23 gauge nailers, do you have any preference or idea where best to buy?

@10MinuteWorkshop 4 года назад

Thanks Michael! It’s a21g veneer pinner that I bought from spotnails.co.uk - I’ve had it a long, long time, and not sure if they still sell it any more though I’m afraid. I don’t know if any other corded electric 23g pinners; I think Makita and Hikoki do 23g cordless, but for some reason don’t sell them in the uk. 🤷‍♂️👍

@mickskey1976 4 года назад

Thanks Peter. Yeah I've scoured the internet and been to some dark dark place without much luck. I'll persevere though.

@jmully123456789 7 лет назад

Hi peter, I'm building a couple of alcove units I've built the carcasses out of 18mm ply I was going to make the faceframe out of solid wood but on a previous built in I made the knots have bled through even after using a knoting solution. I'm now going to use mdf since watching your videos, as much as I'd like to I can't justify the expense of a domino so could I use a dowel jig and what size dowels would you recommend for 22mm mdf. Sorry about the essay

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

john mullarkey Hi. I'd recommend MR (moisture resistant) MDF as it's a much better board for not much more money. As for dowels, either 6mm or 8mm should be fine with 22mm thick MR MDF. 👍

@jmully123456789 7 лет назад

Peter Millard thanks peter wasn't expecting a response that quick especially on a Sunday. Keep the videos coming nice to see some British woodwork

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

+john mullarkey No problem - been glued to the app all day as I've just turned 10k subscribers 😀👍 And thanks!

@amirs5512 7 лет назад

They aren't pocket holes; they're screws at an angle!

@10MinuteWorkshop 7 лет назад

Pretty sure I never refer to them as pocket-hole screws. "...I'm fixing the bookcase in position with tongue-tite screws driven at an angle directly into the top..." FWIW I almost never use pocket-hole screws 👍