Darren this is really a tremendous course. I sent you a message on my own battery drain experience. I’m a hands on learner and by physically doing the tests it never registered in my brain that a simple 12V lamp staying on already exceeds the mA of say 20 to 50mA limits on most cars. The picture I sent shows one bulb drawing .065A. Thanks for sharing. Artie 👍
Hey Artie, glad you are still enjoying the content, you are a very valued member! I appreciate your contributions 😁 Yes I saw your post, about to get to them. I agree, the .065 could be a problem depending on battery size and condition 👍
@@MechanicMindset I use a current shunt (with the pico) and an "Amp Hound 2". These two methods give me a fast and effective method to locating quiescent current draw. However most cases are due to bus wakeups/keepalives and therefore the picoscope or Canalyzer take over since traditional testing methods don't work for these type of drains. I have a flir IR camera too but never seem to have it with me when I'm diagnosing a drain
@@ashleyg3357 The shunt nearly featured in the video… Interesting you use CANalyzer, I used to used to use that as an EMC tech working at MIRA. How do you get on with it. It’s never really been considered a diagnostic tool…
@@MechanicMindset I use it daily for various topics, primarily I use it for remote support and especially for transmission complaints or stalling complaints. You are right it doesn't provide all the information you need but it makes a good piece to the puzzle. The picoscope is the tool that really does find the culprit. We also use canalyzer for UDS which is great when OEM diagnostic tools have limited actual values or IO control
@@ashleyg3357 Awesome, where I was before, they were looking to use VSpy, very powerful if you have the software to identify the awake commands etc. unfortunately, most of this is data they should make available on scan tools 😬
As always on this channel, this video is didactically excellent. Moreover, it is very pleasant to have all this presented in the distinguished manner of a British gentleman. Thank you.
Darren, another AWESOME video, it's made me quite hungry whilst watching your endless tutorials, i think i def need a thermal camera, to check on my Pizza, so it's still warm !!🙂 keep up the great work, as ever, Bless 😇
@@MechanicMindset i was intrigued to check the prices for these 'thermal cameras' OMG i nearly died, they are very expensive, i thought the cost may have been very low or affordable, but are £££££'s in hundreds, me thinks a cold Pizza, or the Bath tub, is easily accommodating regardless of the critical temp' 🙄
@@ronhammons2070 Cheers for that, tip, any links? Made in -China ? if so, they usually take forever to get here !! i remember ordering a dinosaur when they were around, ,,, still waiting for delivery 🙂
To not loose settings , keep alive memory etc. sometimes the following may come in handy: Connect a second battery to the B+ stud of the alternator and chassis ground. Then open the ground/negative connection of the original battery's post and go inline with your metering device. Then you disconnect the auxiliary battery. In a similar way this technique will allow to change a battery without loosing information/memory.
I use my digital multi meter bit I do not break the connection. One thing I always teach younger techs. Disconnecting the battery completely can reset all the modules back to normal if there really was an issue.
I sometimes use a Fluke i30 amp that clamp hooks to my Fluke 88. It has a much wider clamp area. But it takes some practice with decimal placement with the meter reading. YYYYeah the i30 is about 500 bucks 😮
Fantastic job especially the meter in series with ground of the battery to a ground then only remove the accessory ground don’t know how I never thought of that just genius CHEERS
Nice interesting Video but i have one question if im going to disconnect the battery (or battery cable) witch cable is best to remove first the positive or negative?
While electrically it does not make a difference where the circuit is opened the recommendation is to disconnect the negative side first. Reason being no short will occur if by accident the wrench/tool used to disconnect touches ground. This would happen while disconnecting B+ first.
@@MechanicMindset Okay i also learned this the hard way, years ago by grounding the wrench to the chassis of my old Opel Frontera 2.5 (the positive pole is just next to the ABS pump) thank god that i got lucky and the wrench didin`t weld herself to the ABS pump but my qestion was more i direction of PCM and varius modules in the modern cars. Is there any difference for the sensitive electronics on board.
@@alexybodom 😂 I know some good welders. It’s never come up as an issue. The big one was where people were shorting pos and neg together after a battery reset to drain capacitors. This will damage ECUs. Also just making sure there are some electrical loads on after jump starting, to soak the current surge
@@MechanicMindset I saw someone recommend doing a capacitor drain by disconnecting negative battery cable. Then depressing the brake pedal to "short" them. With the load of the bulb filaments, you are less likely to damage the ECUs.
Nice video!! I Like the amp clamp first at the battery separation points to isolate fuse boxes. MV check across fuses, unplug associated components! CAN bus is also a nice place to scope if it’s not so easy to locate
As a DIY or a newer mechanic installing a battery what is an easy (and fast) way for someone to find out if it is a Drain (parasitic draw), Alternator, Relay, or something grounding out? Do you have to wait until there is an issue multiple times? Is there a way to check it out when installing the battery and then checking the Starting-Charging System (to deal with it all at once)? Thanks in advance
The biggest mistake I always see is measuring the battery voltage without a load. Battery can read 13.5 volts but a drain from the starter and it goes to 5V. Put your meter on the battery and put a load on the battery like starter, headlights. or AC compressor. The volts you see are real.
Hey i bought your pico cheap kit from Amazon . Its in the post. So have you ever thought about altering yours so the grounds per channel are not shared? Video of yours explained how it caused a misfire.
@@MechanicMindset anything is possible. To want something is to solve the design puzzle on how to get it. I presume inside wants looking at. Im a great taker aparter. Update you if U if I ever find out.
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Hi , Sean here , mechanic from Ireland. Love your videos. Keep them coming. Just wondering where you got the seek camera attachment for your phone please. ? They vary in price wildly from €33(ali express) to €300(amazon) . Would you trust the ali express? Also I made a pulse pressure sensor, for myself and a few workmates. They work great. Thanks. 😊
Awesome, pulse sensors are great! The seek camera I got off Amazon. Not sure if they are genuine for €33, but I suppose it’s worth a try for that price!
You show a 3 milliamp draw on the multimeter, and say that is a large draw on the battery. But earlier 50 milliamps is acceptable, so I must be missing something here. Please clear up my confusion!
Great video! I think I will try your course, because now I'm curious to see tip no 3. Regarding that automotive multimeter, for precise measuring of mV can be used an oscilloscope?
Yes give it a go, I have big plans for it! You can try the Free Taster to get an idea of how we do things 👍 Yes, I suppose you could use an oscilloscope, they are definitely accurate enough. Might not be so convenient though 😁
Darren if your vehicle has multiple leads let’s say two coming off the ground post of the battery does it make a difference which one you connect to with the meter to get an amperage reading or does it have to be the larger of the two ground cables? Just checking before doing. Thanks 👍
Good question; you would need to make sure that both are disconnected. It would probably be easier to take the battery terminal off instead. My Suzuki is like that and one of the splits it easy to remove, the other is buried underneath
HI Darren - thanks as always for your high quality videos. I've subscribed to your paid channel and would encourage others to do so as well - great value for $$. I've had difficulties in the past using my fluke multi-meter regarding voltage drops across fuses due to the millivolt value. I have been looking for a good millivolt volt meter and like the one you've used here. Are there any others you can suggest? I can't seem to find the 710 you use. I'm in Canada so maybe it's a UK thing... any thoughts or suggestions really welcomed.
Glad you are enjoying the content and lessons! I did buy this Mac about 20 years ago, might have been superseded. Had a quick look online, I think the Fluke 179 should do it. That has the separate mV setting, so assume it measures down to 1/10th of a mV
@@MechanicMindset i met a guy who was outside Halfords claiming he was there to buy a nee battery for his car. I said how did he get to Halfords. He said in his car. I said did it need a bump start first. He said no it started fine. Im laughing. So what made you think you needed a new battery. Oh because there was a light on telling him to buy a nee battery. Logic here is he lives very close to that Halfords. As he was a Volvo driver. (Almost zombies in personality most of them) he never realised the battery light was only saying not charging. So alternator. Aux belt. Cable issue. He thought because it was a symbol of a battery it meant go buy a new one. But the fact his car cranked fine never sparked a thought in his volvo brain that that may be wrong. Ha ha
I'm sick up to my eyeballs with these dopey battery drain test videos. I love it when mechanics think they are electricians- literally the blind leading the blind. Maybe next you can extoll the virtue of the shitbird solder shrink butt connectors or how soldering old underhood wiring is somehow smart. Electricity does exactly two things- it either induces magnetism or it creates heat. Anything taking out a good car battery is getting warm. Park the stupid car with a stupid charger on it then scan it with a thermal cam. Remember to look underneath the car as well. Afterwards, you can marvel at the non-melted probe tips that you have (you know, to save you from looking like an incompetent boob). Furthermore, not all clamp probes have a DC spec, and even if any particular probe is good for DC, it probably isn't worth a shit at 8 milliamps. Gonna measure millivolt drops across fuses you say? Better make sure your probe tips aren't so melted that they don't make contact with the fuse points. What's that? Your F-150 has J-case fuses? Better luck next time. The best advice any RU-vidr can offer to the unwashed masses is to cultivate a relationship with a mechanic that is mutually rewarding such that the mechanic is looking out for your best interest. If you take the "any swinging dick will do" attitude (meaning you are a bad customer), it is predictable that your results will be less than favorable. You always hear about the bad mechanics, but you never hear about the bad customers. If you don't trust him with his bill, you shouldn't trust him with your car either. That said, if the relationship is proper, the mechanic will be thoughtful and responsive. One of the biggest red flags I get is when someone says "I can't find a decent mechanic". Not only are they the worst to do business with, the junk they drop on you is more difficult to repair because they had their brother in law butcher it over brewskis and he never came back.
I’m not doing videos but I play with cars for more than 12 years and special with PicoScope and i know exactly everything what is there but you know just playing basic and playing around. Show me your skills
Is 0.15A normal for a battery drain? For me it’s a bit high 150mA. But it might not be a problem depending on the battery size and how the car is used. Below 50mA is ideal. 0.05A
Electronic Specialties makes several miliamp range amp clamps that are designed for parasitic drain measurements that fit easily around the postive or negative battery cables and their really accurate
The use of a thermal imager can be a real time saver, but they can be misleading, they're best used after a vehicle has sat undisturbed for a period long enough for everything to cool down.
@@MechanicMindset I'm fairly sure a thermal imager would work just fine anywhere near the equator on a hot day, as long as the vehicle has been parked in the shade and has sat for a while. Looking for relative temperature differentials, learning the difference between what's normally hot and not. When I first got my Flir, I found a relay glowing brightly, it wasn't the relay at fault, it was its connections. :O) I pulled out all 3 of my DMMs yesterday and did some comparisons, now I'm not sure which one to trust :O) Thanks!
