This..This..This. Taught with skill. Filmed with skill. Edited with skill..Dialogued with skill. Textbook. This helped me..Fixed N Free. And I love being able to see close in. This. Thanks from the bottom…J. Ya got a quiver full of skill sets. And one leads to another. Cheers
Man if it weren’t for you, i’d still be using pull-throughs on my knives. I’ve gone from chipping my edges to long lasting working edges and mirror polishing. Thank you for these videos. You’re the man, bub!
I’ve noticed all of these things during my current knife sharpening journey. Very very useful. I had a small introduction to this as I have been sharpening mower blades since I was 13. And alot of the fundamentals are shared between the two.
I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN I DID A LOT OF THAT AS WELL. THERES A LOT OF SIMILARITIES, WITH KNIVES ITS MORE PRECISE AND I BIT DIFFERENT SINCE YOUR GOING FOR HIGH LEVELS OF SHARPNESS OVER TOUGHNESS WHCIH LAWN BLADES ARE VERY TOUGH BUT ALSO GET VERY SHARP WHEN DONE RIGHT
@@NeevesKnives yes. MUCH MORE precise. I was mirror polishing. And I did achieve the polish I wanted. But noticed some deeper scratches. Not terrible, just something I noticed. This is because I wasn’t paying attention to my scratch pattern. Appreciate the advice on this brother 💪🏻💪🏻
Can you sharpen like normal with the ceramic and do the burr removal after? And if I’m using 2 strops 6 micron and 4 micron how many passes do you recommend with each
Loved all the tips & insight! Something else that I find extremely useful is listening & the feedback from the stone & edge. The sound & feedback can tell you when a side is completely homogenous and even. You can feel & hear exactly where it needs more attention & you can address that spot just by listening to it & the feedback you feel. I love using the ceramic on the SWPA for removing burrs too. Tip to heal a few times initially on each side (listening etc) then flip & repeat. Then I just count down in # of times each side. A single swipe on each side & you can get a whisper of a burr, like super thin fil that you'd be hard pressed to feel with a finger. Then I use an artists eraser (super soft, natural eraser that doesn't leave shit behind) to run down the edge & off to the strop. I also use that eraser every so often on the diamond plates & ceramic to keep them clean, aggressive. When I over strop or roll an edge a bit I use the ceramic to bring back a toothy edge and then adjust any stropping and bring it to the edge I want. The internet is about information sharing, so there's some of my experiences, observations that may offer ideas to some & they adapt them to suit their ways. Keep up the great work Jared! Cheers
Always good to watch someone else use a guided system.. helps me remember the little things I tend to take for granted in sharpening. Especially someone like yourself that has many hours doing it. Thanks for the video! Well done. 😊
Such a great vid for those getting into sharpening on a fixed angle system and even for those who have been using one for awhile. Always something new to learn about sharpening in general. The aftermarket stone holder is definatly a great investment for any sharpening system if it doesn't come with one already Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
That helps so much. The last thing I want to do is mess up knives I’ve spent good money on. Working on cheap knives with easy steels first was also a great tip from you
VERY GOOD VIDEO!! Especially the part of when to stop at the tip, to prevent rollover!! NO ONE wants to convert a good poker into a butter knife. Thanks again!
Ever since I got the work sharp OG precision adjust I could get hair whittling edges, and then I got the PRO PA. And it's a big upgrade but any time a cut through printer paper it would go to the side and trail of, so I tried your technique and I'm slicing through paper like butter. Awesome advice.
Something I wish people talked about more on fixed angle systems is blade positioning in the clamp for different blade shapes. One of my biggest struggles with fixed angles is not having the bevel widen out at the tip on blades with abrupt curves up to the tip (like the Benny's Clip)
@@NeevesKnives I never even thought about that, but now that you mention it it seems obvious. Do you generally suggest centering the length of the blade in the clamp? In this vid it looked like you had it clamped more rearward.
On a fixed angle system you want the longest part of the edge parallel with the sharpener, You always want the blade supported as tight as possible , I always twist the handle to make sure it’s locked super tight and there is no movement , being in the center is fine or back closer to the pivot it doesn’t really matter as long as your stones clear the clamp and it’s locked tight , you also want to make sure the tip is supported and isn’t flexing so you might want clamp closer to the tip on a very thin knife , some filet knives I support the tip with my finger to keep it from flexing downward when I run the stone or strop over it , Hope this helps 👊🏻
BTW WITH THE BURR REMOVAL I TALK ABOUT IT ALL THE TIME ON THE CHANNEL EVEN WITH FREE HAND ITS SO IMPORTANT ON HOW YOUR EDGE WILL COME OUT IF YOUR ON A FIXED ANGLED ITS VERY EASY BUT YOU NEED TO DO LIGHT STROKES EDGE TRAILING WITH YOUR FINISHING STONE OR A CERAMIC, NO PRESSURE,
Only halfway through the video but I just had to pause to make this comment saying that this is the video I've been needing🔥 already know all the basics but this is great cuz it's focusing on all of mistakes that are most commonly made. Stopping the stone halfway on the tip!!! that is key and will help me tremendously in and of itself, okay going to go watch the rest of the video ✌🏻 thanks for this!!! 🔥🔥
Awesome video! 👌 one question you mention a few times no pressure during stroping but when your using your stones how much pressure would you say you apply? I have a few stones now some cut faster than others so trying to find a consistent pressure for reprofiling and sharpening
Awesome video. I've been looking for something better than my Lansky. Wasn't sure if it was worth the upgrade to a high end sharpener. Maybe now I can really get a perfect edge. Thank you so much.
Excellent video, as a rookie this was extremely helpful. One question, when you talked about using a ceramic stone to remove a burr, did that replace the stropping or do you recommend doing both. Thanks.
So you sharpen and get a burr underneath you flip it sharpen the other side the burr goes back to other side would you suggest removing the bur with that same stone or move on to the next stone the. Remove it
On the KME system to me it looks like they do more “scrubbing” back and forth motion vs sweeping the blade. If you had a KME would you work it this exactly same way
i notice you mostly sharpen smaller knives. Have you tried any bigger kitchen knives? especially with this work sharp per pro. i have a similar set up and im having trouble with the clamping system not holding strong, it flexes as i get to tip. any suggestions?
Great video. I gonna pick up that Worksharp Pro PA now that there is a stone holder available. I was considering getting a TSProf but they have not been available here in Scandinavia for almost a year. Gonna need to pick up some slim Venev stones also. It's nice to have a fixed angle system for when you just need to put on a good consistent edge 🙂Thanks for the video.
Work Sharp released the professional version two freekin' months after I bought a KME! Don't get me wrong. I'm a big fan of the KME. It's a great system. That's why I bought it, but I like the Work Sharp better. (The precision adjustment screw makes it a lot easier to set a precise angle, not to mention that it comes with an digital angle finder.) Two freekin' months! They did the same damn thing when I bought the original Worksharp sharpener. Three weeks later the Ken Onion Edition comes out!
Are you saying when your sharpening one side of the blade with like say 600 grit and you have your Bur then instead of fipping it to other side go to 800 grit and keep sharpening to get the scratch pattern smoother then flip the blade and just do like 5 strokes to remove the Bur.
Excellent video thank you for the information and tips , got any tips for marrying up 2 edges on fixed angle system ? Just got EMP Relative and attempting to sharpen it soon the edge looks a little tricky it's not a tanto but where compound grind meets looks like it will be difficult to marry up the 2 edges
What grit ceramic do you use? Also are you worried about carbide fracturing or destabalization when using ceramic as a finishing stone on the high carbide steels?
Don’t THINK too much. Get 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 grit diamond stones. Even the hyper Micro 2,000ug grits in honing solutions would be fine just don’t worry about those. Just get the diamond stones.
I very much appreciate your efforts here to show the importance of proper sharpening. particularly the importance of the microscopic teeth. Years ago I tried it vain to explain this over on BF' to no avail. I was told that it was completely wrong. Particularly by one individual who toted himself as an Engineer in Metallurgy. When I did a deep dive on his qualifications turned out he as only a trade school student and not an accredited Metallurgist at all. Yet he was treated there as the god of steel. Virtually every thing he taught there was dead wrong. I won't give his name here as he is now deceased, I still see his name as the guru of knife steels. GRRRRRRR!!! A complete fraud and never made a knife in his life. I finally gave up trying to educate the masses there. Like you I have done extensive testing over the years in the business and have been a maker of fine knives for over 50 year. Hard not to learn a few things in all that time. ;
Hey. I’m sorry but I can’t for the life of me find the aftermarket stone holder you’re showing at the beginning of your video. I’ve tried all the links you provided, but can’t seem to find it. I recently bought the new Professional Precision Adjust Work Sharp sharpener (like the one you’re using), but I want to expand its capabilities like you suggest (using more stones). Will you PLEASE, PLEASE either make another video or at least a Short naming and describing the stone holder you’re using??? Thanks SO MUCH and, as always, I REALLY enjoy all your content! Thanks again! ;-}. MM
I get a wicked edge, but feel I can improve. I struggle to confidently identify a burr. Even after many passes. I just assume I have rough hands and don't feel it. Seems more difficult with premium steels - Magnacut or maxamet recently.
So, after removing the initial burr FROM TIP TO TAIL, then (without flipping) you go back to passes from TAIL TO TIP while creating the new burr to the other side?
I definitely do some of the "don'ts" you've described in this video. So I definitely appreciate the tips! One question I have tho is that😮 even when using fixed angle sharpeners such as the The Work Sharp Precision Adjust, I find that the blade ends up with little scratches on it. To avoid this I put blue painters tape over the entire blade. Is there something I'm doing wrong cuz taping up a blade every time is annoying AF!
The same thing happens to me. but the answer is simple. you're pulling the stone too far up to where the edge of the end of the stone is hitting the side of the blade. that's why the fixed angle sharpeners usually give you a rubber washer to prevent that from happening. but for me, I don't use the washers because I like to use every inch of the stone, but the tradeoff is that I sometimes get scratches on my blade. to me it's not a big deal because they're knives not art pieces but at the same time I like to try to keep them on best shape for as ling as possible so I try to avoid things like that. as I get better at fixed angle sharpening, I don't have the problem where I scratch the blade because of muscle memory. especially as I became aware of the scratches and how I was scratching my knives.
fixed angle only gets thicker and your knives perform poorer and the sharpening eventually takes longer. then you have to thin it and alot of fixed systems cant do an accute enough angle to thin.
Thanks for sharing bud!👊🏻I have seen people just go straight up and down I believe it was on a work sharp video is that not good to do even if you make sure to be even with it same amount of strokes?
if all the teeth are straight up and down then its fine, kind of like a factory edge done on a belt thats how they are. but you dont want the teeth running all different directions
Great vid Jared. I've been tempted to pick up the Worksharp Pro. I have the original. It's not bad, but man does it fall short in a lot of ways. Do you think the Pro is worth it, or should I just bite the bullet and buy a T.S. Prof? I've been hand sharpening lately, but it really sucks when you need to re-profile some of the crazy hard steels.
how do you feel about wood strops with gunny juice? i tend to like a balsa/bass wood strop better because i find my angle way easier. should i put more pressure then a leather strop?
So i just finished me first try with a worksharp elite. But i didnt spend enough time going through the finer grits once I got that initial burr like you said. Would you recommend going over again or just wait til the knife gets dull. It cuts very well but with the naked eye you can see the pattern isnt even.
Just wait until it gets dull, because if you have the precision elite then it's not going to matter much, the jump from the last diamond to the ceramic is to big there needs to be one or 2 stones more before the ceramic If you want an ultra fine edge, however the ceramic will be a great way to do your burr removal, you can get an aftermarket stone holder in order to get better stones btw
If you have the same system from this video the professional then it's kinda the same thing, another reason i recommend getting the aftermarket stone holder, there's a really good one in my Hapstone link that's in my most recent videos for both systems, it will be back in stock in about a week or 2
@NeevesKnives I have the pm2 and I noticed the holder for the worksharp doesn't allow the stone to hit the corner of the hilt/plunge. I'll look into the aftermarket holder just for that reason alone.
you can go ever the tip you just have to follow the path of the edge ... dont know if thats a sin but like that at teast the tip doesnt get rounded off... got a pretty good edge like that yesterday on my folder
I cant be bothered with fixed angle systems. Most knife bros extremely over complicate things, and usually don't understand them anyway. Guys who for instance think you need 20 grits to do a knife edge and stuff like that. Guys who start out with something like 50 grit. Just the amount of ignorance youd be fighting against trying to teach knife bros is too much.
@@jeronimo2152 USUALLY WITH SYSTEMS DIAMONDS ARE THE BEST BECAUSE THEY CUT FAST AND WITH SMALLER STONES IT TAKES A LONG TIME IF THE STONES ARE NOT DIAMOND
